key won't rotate in ignition switch or start car

[Dash01]

Neither of my keys will rotate in the ignition switch to start the car. Parked car, came back an hour later, and now neither of my two keys will work. So, it's not the keys, which are both intact.

What is the fix for a suddenly faulty or jammed ignition switch? The steering wheel will come unlocked (barely) with insertion of the key, so I've tried to start the car after turning the wheel either way, but no luck.

Can the ignition module be removed, and/or the car hotwired to drive home?

Advice, anyone?

[bill g]

Seems to be a common problem. Mine turned out to be a faulty steering lock - there is a projection out of the inner end of the lock cylinder which operates the steering lock. I am assuming yours is similar to mine (89 535i). You need to get the lock cylinder out. Should be plenty of previous posts explaining this, including one of mine on this forum and on Roadfly E34 5 series forum.

bill g

[Dash01]

Thanks, Bill,

I can hold the key and rotate it just enough to release the steering lock and turn the steering wheel, but the key won't turn far enough to engage the ignition or the accessory position, so no radio, and no start, etc.. I don't think the key will rotate ~60 degrees to insert an allen wrench and remove the ignition lock barrel.

So, I suspect the trouble is within the lock barrel itself, and not the steering lock. So, how to get that thing out, without insertion of an allen wrench, paper clip, etc.?

BMA has an OEM lock barrel for ~$49, as of now I but don't know if that comes pre-set for my key. (Reportedly, BMW dealers sell lock barrels pre-set to your key, if you provide your VIN.)

Any more ideas on diagnosis and repair of this particular key/lock problem?



Seems to be a common problem. Mine turned out to be a faulty steering lock - there is a projection out of the inner end of the lock cylinder which operates the steering lock. I am assuming yours is similar to mine (89 535i). You need to get the lock cylinder out. Should be plenty of previous posts explaining this, including one of mine on this forum and on Roadfly E34 5 series forum.

bill g

[bill g]

I just kept fiddling with the key until it turned to radio position which is 60 degrees - it took ages and maybe I was lucky. If you cannot get the lock barrel out by the proper method then you probably have to use brute force or get a locksmith to do it. I am sure someone on this board would have used those methods at some time. Be careful not to set off the air bag if the car has one.

bill g

[Beemr750]

Squirt some penetrating stuff through the key slot and let it soak in,it helped me to free it up.No more probs.

[Dash01]

When your ig. lock seized, was there any prior warning or indication?

Mine was totally symptom- and error-free until I went to start it after sitting for an hour. In other words, no history of being stiff, jamming, or whatever. I did not hear any noise from is as might be expected if an internal part snapped or broke, either. No nuthin--suddenly just won't turn more than just enough to release the steering lock, and then only when twisting the key. :(

[John B.]

Dash - Check your Pms. Mine worked fine the night before when I shut off the car but the next morning it wouldn't budge. If you steering lock has freed up you're ahead of the game. Try the penetrating oil, that may have helped mine its hard to say. Just keep trying the key while jiggling the wheel & it should eventually turn.

[632 Regal]

if it turns part of the way I suspect its in the linkage for the shifter or clutch or something of that sort. no clue what car you have.

[Dash01]

It easily turns about 45 degrees, but no further. It's been repeatedly doused with graphite locksmith's spray.

How does the shifter linkage come into play with this non-rotating key issue? The car will shift into Park, Neutral, Drive, etc.. I have the lower plastic cover off the ig. key/tumbler assy, but have not noticed any shifter linkage, just the multi-pin plug for the electric wires, etc..

Pls. advise, and thanks!





if it turns part of the way I suspect its in the linkage for the shifter or clutch or something of that sort. no clue what car you have.

[Dash01]

Also, I've tried the allen wrench trick, but the key won't rotate far enough for the allen wrench to penetrate more than ~ 6mm, whereas it needs ~20 mm. So far, cannot insert the allen wrench to remove the tumbler assy.

[632 Regal]

check out the cable... that could be jammed down the steering column, I dont know what it goes to.

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/partgrp.do?model=HD23&mospid=47408&prod=19890900&hg=32&fg=30

[Dash01]

That makes sense: Per the owner's manual, the car can only be started in Park or Neutral. There must be some sort of blocking mechansim (solenoid?) to keep the key from being turned past ~45 degress from it's insertion point, otherwise the car could be started when the transmission is in Drive or whatever, causing damage.

As you say, maybe there's a linkage problem, such that the key/ig. switch is prevented from going past ~45 degress of rotation, i.e., the car "thinks" it's in Drive whether it is or not, so won't let the key rotate. A faulty cable could do this, no?

As it is now, the key rotates only ~45 degrees regardless of the position of the transmission shifter, i.e., key rotation is < or = ~45 degrees in P, N, D, etc.. with no lights, radio, yada yada yada.

How to check this?


check out the cable... that could be jammed down the steering column, I dont know what it goes to.

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/partgrp.do?model=HD23&mospid=47408&prod=19890900&hg=32&fg=30

[Beemr750]

On 535A is no mechanical starting lock.I'ts the electric switch the gear
lever operates which interupts the starting circuit only.You can turn the key to start anytime it just only closes the circuit in P or N.The same switch interconnects other funtions related to the transmission operation.

[Dash01]

Thanks, Beemr, that simplifies matters and keeps me from barking up the wrong diagnostic tree. So, it' sounds like the transmission shifter has no relationship to ignition key not turnable more than ~45 degrees.

Some have suggested disconnecting the electrical ignition switch, and then see if the key will turn with the lock cylinder attached to the steering lock. If so, then the ignition switch is to blame. If not, the fault is purely mechanical and is in the lock cylinder and/or steering lock.

How to remove the lock cylinder if the key cannot be turned far enough (~60 degrees) to insert an allen wrench to release the catch? Drill it out? Brute force?









On 535A is no mechanical starting lock.I'ts the electric switch the gear
lever operates which interupts the starting circuit only.You can turn the key to start anytime it just only closes the circuit in P or N.The same switch interconnects other funtions related to the transmission operation.

[632 Regal]

wow thats right! just checked. can you move the gearshift at all with the key in either of the positions that the key does go to? That cable limits something or it wouldnt be there. Someone knows the answer to this but hasnt seen this post yet im sure. With the car in gear you cant shut the key all the way off too.

[Dash01]

The gearshift moves to any position regardless of whether the key is even in the hole, or cranked to ~45 degrees before it stops, which is not far enough to align the little holes for the allen wrench insertion to release the lock cylinder catch, or turn on electric accessories. Beemr tells me that my particular car ('90 535i with automatic trans) has no cable or mechanical connection between the gearshift and the ign. switch. Rather, it's wired such that electrical connection with the starter motor can only be made when the shifter is in P or N. So, it appears the cable has no part in this puzzle, since there's no cable.

Dealer suggested disconnecting the ign. switch and see if the key works properly. No difference, so the ign. switch has no part in the puzzle, either.

Therefore, I suppose the problem can only be in the lock cylinder and/or the steering lock, which are both purely mechanical. When the key is cranked clockwise as far as it'll go (~45 degrees), the steering lock is released, so I can turrn the steering wheel as long as I hold clockwise pressure on the key. So, since the steering lock seems OK, that just leaves the pesky lock cylinder.

Dealer wants $96. BMA price $49, I think. Plan B is to figure a way to remove this one, and fix it by removing or correcting the obstruction (bent wafer? bad spring?)

I tried drilling another little hole (~15 degrees CW of the existing one) to slip the allen wrench in to the lock cylinder catch, but this is some stout metal. Score so far: Lions 3 Christians 0.

[632 Regal]

another idea, thinking again (new to me) you might be right with the ignition being ****ed, it kinda sounds like the same thing as if you turned the key all the way to start it but didnt, you cant restart the car without removing the key and re inserting it and starting it, what makes it do this anti restart feature? could it be that cable cause when I just tried it it kinda feels rubbery unless I pull the key back out...im trying mann...lol Im not sure if its the lock that does this or something with that damn cable.