Dash01
03-18-2005, 01:29 PM
Recently, there have been more than a few posts regarding ignition lock and steering lock problems (some sporatic) with cars not driveable as the consequence. My '90 535i suddenly was unstartable because the key would not turn far enough.
In studying this problem, I dis-assembled the steering lock, which on inspection is a very simple device. It has an internal camshaft that connects the ignition lock on one end to the ignition switch on the other end. This camshaft (when rotated by turning the key) rocks a lever that in turn locks or unlocks the steering wheel. So, it has only two moving parts.
There is a small pin attached to the camshaft, probably there to keep the assembly from falling out before installation on the car. This pin fell out of its mounting hole and jammed the movement of the camshaft, so the key would not turn and the car would not start.
Replacement steering locks are not cheap. Further, the online ETK shows drawings of 4 or 5 steering locks for a '90 BMW 535i. None of these drawings look like the factory steering lock that was on my car.
So, if your key won't turn, the fault may lie in the ignition lock itself, in the steering lock, or in the ignition switch.
First, unclip the plastic ignition switch and start the car that way. If the ignition switch does not work, replace or repair it.
Second, remove the ignition lock cylinder from the steering lock. l found that a heavy duty paper clip, straightened except for a ~25 degree bend ~1/4" from the tip, works a LOT better than an allen wrench. Push the paperclip ~7/8" in, then rotate it. Its curved tip acts as a cam to retract the latch on the igniiton cylinder, which can then be pulled out of the steerring lock housing. Lubricate with locksmith's graphite and repeatedly check the movement of the ignition lock. If there's any resistance or stiffness, replace it.
Third, withdraw the camshaft from the steering lock, Do this by depressing the lockpin that goes under the inner rim of the steering wheel (which must be removed per Bentley instructions). With the lockpin depressed, the lever moves out of the way and the camshaft can be pulled out with needle-nose pliers. Clean the inside of the steering lock, remove any debris (such as a broken pin) that has been jamming the works. Q-tips, a flashlight, Kleenex and a small dental mirror are handy. Re-lube with lithium grease, and re-assemble in reverse order, first studying the relationship of the cam part of the camshaft and the internal lever. (Insert the camshaft with the cam lobe up, while depressing the lockpin, thereby holding the lever down. This makes enough space to insert the camshaft and seat it in its pivot hole.)
Knowing this last Friday would have saved me days of frustration, $$$, and the loss of my car for a week. You results and specific car may vary, but this worked for me.
It's probably smart to get some locksmith's graphite and lube all the locks on your car. My doorlocks got stiff this winter, but are now smooth as silk.
In studying this problem, I dis-assembled the steering lock, which on inspection is a very simple device. It has an internal camshaft that connects the ignition lock on one end to the ignition switch on the other end. This camshaft (when rotated by turning the key) rocks a lever that in turn locks or unlocks the steering wheel. So, it has only two moving parts.
There is a small pin attached to the camshaft, probably there to keep the assembly from falling out before installation on the car. This pin fell out of its mounting hole and jammed the movement of the camshaft, so the key would not turn and the car would not start.
Replacement steering locks are not cheap. Further, the online ETK shows drawings of 4 or 5 steering locks for a '90 BMW 535i. None of these drawings look like the factory steering lock that was on my car.
So, if your key won't turn, the fault may lie in the ignition lock itself, in the steering lock, or in the ignition switch.
First, unclip the plastic ignition switch and start the car that way. If the ignition switch does not work, replace or repair it.
Second, remove the ignition lock cylinder from the steering lock. l found that a heavy duty paper clip, straightened except for a ~25 degree bend ~1/4" from the tip, works a LOT better than an allen wrench. Push the paperclip ~7/8" in, then rotate it. Its curved tip acts as a cam to retract the latch on the igniiton cylinder, which can then be pulled out of the steerring lock housing. Lubricate with locksmith's graphite and repeatedly check the movement of the ignition lock. If there's any resistance or stiffness, replace it.
Third, withdraw the camshaft from the steering lock, Do this by depressing the lockpin that goes under the inner rim of the steering wheel (which must be removed per Bentley instructions). With the lockpin depressed, the lever moves out of the way and the camshaft can be pulled out with needle-nose pliers. Clean the inside of the steering lock, remove any debris (such as a broken pin) that has been jamming the works. Q-tips, a flashlight, Kleenex and a small dental mirror are handy. Re-lube with lithium grease, and re-assemble in reverse order, first studying the relationship of the cam part of the camshaft and the internal lever. (Insert the camshaft with the cam lobe up, while depressing the lockpin, thereby holding the lever down. This makes enough space to insert the camshaft and seat it in its pivot hole.)
Knowing this last Friday would have saved me days of frustration, $$$, and the loss of my car for a week. You results and specific car may vary, but this worked for me.
It's probably smart to get some locksmith's graphite and lube all the locks on your car. My doorlocks got stiff this winter, but are now smooth as silk.