Replaced clutch - does not feel right

[Ali]

Originally when I bought the car the clutch was very stiff, with the info I got from various threads in this forum and also my mechanic the clutch plate, pressure plate and release bearing needed replacement. Just got the car back with the following work done.
1) Clutch plate replaced with new Sachs
2) Pressure plate changed - Sachs
3) Release bearing - ditto
4) Tranmission mounts changed.
5) Lower control arms bushes changed

The clutch now feels way too soft and engages very low on the pedal (car stalls 3 out of 4 times while engaging 1st gear), I have driven manual trannys most of the time but this new clutch just doesn't feel right - bleeding issue ?, going back to the workshop later today to have him fix it somehow.

On the test drive back from the workshop I noticed the steering now has new very strong vibration between 55-65mph (this vibration is there mostly at the steering wheel but also very slight body vibration), still there after 65mph but noticably less.

Steering is very light and has very little feel (read on this forum that steering can be adjusted in some way - my mechanic doesn't know how), feels very dangerous upwards of 70mph, this problem has been there from the day I first drove this car, according to the workshop the power steering is not adjustable and they suggested I look for a used steering box.

Guys your help will really be appreciated.

Ali

[632 Regal]

the clutch can be adjusted for more free play.

the tires or wheels may be the culprit here, hopefully a good balance job sorts that one for you.

[dave b]

Sounds like you need to bleed the clutch again - that should fix the pedal feel.

Dave

[Ali]

Guys help me out here I'm completely new to this plz be more specific like proper clutch bleeding /height adjustment procedure, alignment and balancing done twice prior to clutch repair with no improvement to the steering vibration (the 55mph-65mph vibration has started after this repair earlier there was a progressive increase in vibration when I went upwards of 70mph++, which is also still there)

Anyone has any ideas on how I can adjust (if adjustable) the steering for more feel as it feels too light right now and can I (with a friends help) do the steering and clutch adjustment or is it better to be done by the workshop, hope I don't need another steering box :( .

Ali

[genphreak]

Wobbly steering is often worn parts, if an alignment and wheel balance don't fix it, you'll need new joints and bushes bits. On ebay there are parts kits for most of the moving parts in the front suspension for $299USD complete ex USA. (www.fcpgroton.com and others)

For the clutch, get yourself the E34 Bentley manual, it tells you how to do everything on the car, inc the suspension, but this isn't usually easy... some things are hard esp. without a lot of experience. Great car to learn on, not so easy to get right.. but the boards will keep u straight if you share your info. Search them ALWAYS before you ask, many have gone before you. Wish I could be more specific, my car is an auto :p yukyukyuk.... so consider yourself lucky

E34s are the best designed passenger car around, and worth looking after...

[632 Regal]

cant adjust it from here

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=HD53&mospid=47404&prod=19921000&btnr=21_0054&hg=21&fg=10

but it looks like #17 might be adjustable
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=HD53&mospid=47404&prod=19921000&btnr=35_0057&hg=35&fg=05

I would re-bleed it to make sure there isnt any hidden air in there before you try to do anything else.

[Bill R.]

replace the clutch its always easier to push the pedal and feels too easy sometimes on a new clutch. And a new clutch will always engage much closer to the floor. As the clutch disc wears the engagement point will get higher and higher. I would try bleeding your system some more and get any remaining air out of it, there is an eccentric to adjust the pedal height but that just changes the overall pedal height i believe. Thats to set the pedal height for both pedals and to get the overcenter spring set correctly.










Originally when I bought the car the clutch was very stiff, with the info I got from various threads in this forum and also my mechanic the clutch plate, pressure plate and release bearing needed replacement. Just got the car back with the following work done.
1) Clutch plate replaced with new Sachs
2) Pressure plate changed - Sachs
3) Release bearing - ditto
4) Tranmission mounts changed.
5) Lower control arms bushes changed

The clutch now feels way too soft and engages very low on the pedal (car stalls 3 out of 4 times while engaging 1st gear), I have driven manual trannys most of the time but this new clutch just doesn't feel right - bleeding issue ?, going back to the workshop later today to have him fix it somehow.

On the test drive back from the workshop I noticed the steering now has new very strong vibration between 55-65mph (this vibration is there mostly at the steering wheel but also very slight body vibration), still there after 65mph but noticably less.

Steering is very light and has very little feel (read on this forum that steering can be adjusted in some way - my mechanic doesn't know how), feels very dangerous upwards of 70mph, this problem has been there from the day I first drove this car, according to the workshop the power steering is not adjustable and they suggested I look for a used steering box.

Guys your help will really be appreciated.

Ali

[Gooch]

I just changed the clutch master cylinder. It is a bitch to bleed because the bleed nipple is at the slave cylinder. I must have used almost a quart of brake fluid to finally get the air and machined metal out. There's a couple tricks since this is my second time.

- You may have to unbolt the slave cylinder from the tranny and push in the plunger with the bleeder valve open the get the air out of the slave. Then when bolting the slave back on the tranny the plunger tip has to fit exactly into the depression on the clutch fork (or what ever its called). Of course you can't see it. Took me 3 times to get it right. If either of these aren't done correctly the clutch pedal won't engage near the top. Even the best tranny shop can screw it up.

- When bleeding the hydralics make sure the brake fluid reservoir is filled almost to the top and watch the level. BMW placed the hose to the clutch hydraulics out the side of the reservoir instead of the bottom. So it'll start sucking air about a 1/2 inch below the fill line while bleeding.

Oh, and if you ever have to change the clutch master cylinder I strongly suggest bringing it to a mechanic.

[Jeff N.]

Hmmm...I wonder if the mechanic correctly set the throwout bearing on the release arm. If it's 90 degrees out, the clutch would behave just about as you've described.

Better to bleed the heck out of it first.

Jeff

[e34it]

For the wobbling issue 1)check your rims (may be bent) 2) check your tires maybe they are getting older or have developed a flat spot, i had the same problem in my 520 changed the tires, blam! problem solved no more wobbling at 55-65 mph.

[genphreak]

For the wobbling issue 1)check your rims (may be bent) 2) check your tires maybe they are getting older or have developed a flat spot, i had the same problem in my 520 changed the tires, blam! problem solved no more wobbling at 55-65 mph.

Tyres can very often the culprit if they are more than a few years old, if the car has ever sat on them w/o moving for more than a month this is possible...

When they get replaced you get them balanced on the rims... problem goes away just like that if they are the cause... do u need new front tyres? Now could be a good time