rd sways installed last night! INSANE!

[bahnstormer]

rd sways are to an e34 as birth control pills are to sex

the difference is incredible...
getting the rear sway out was a BITCH with the exhaust in
the way, but i got em in and medium (of 3) position in the front
and full stiff (of 2) position in the rear combined with my summer
kumho 712's @ 235 , 255 made my car handle incredible welll

as i pushed it on the off/on ramps it felt really really stable, almost
as if it was taunting me "is this the fastest u can go?" hehheheh
it felt so confidence inspiring!

[BigKriss]

did u lower or remove the exhaust, or just leave it in? how long did it take to do the rear?

[granit_silber]

rd sways are to an e34 as birth control pills are to sex

the difference is incredible...


You are truly a poet :)

Glad to hear they're in; Happy motoring!
-ashley

[bahnstormer]

i tried for 30min to wiggle the thing out in the end i lowered the exhaust and
removed the brace on teh passenger side...
'twas a pain in the arse

[Rory535i]

dude how much did u pay for them if u dont mind me asking? sorry if u already said it in another post...

[bahnstormer]

i drove up to bavauto and showed them RD's website which had the
lowest price i could find, told 'em to price match it and they did!
$390

[Jason]

mine were so loud when i put them in that a pedestrian commented to me. it drove me nuts. everytime the car goes on the lift for an oil change i try to hit them. the squeak always comes back. that really been the only drawback with them, otherwise i've been quite content. sounds like you are too. congrats

[Alan_525i]

I agree, driving over bumps in the city the rear bushes squeak. oh well.

[Mobius]

mine were so loud when i put them in that a pedestrian commented to me. it drove me nuts. everytime the car goes on the lift for an oil change i try to hit them. the squeak always comes back. that really been the only drawback with themYeah, urethane bushes squeak like mad if they're not lubed. Still; they shouldn't be that loud.

Unbolt them, and get inside them with a good, thick silicone grease (NOT petroleum; it will dissolve the bushing) - and they should shut up.

I've got all urethane in my sway bar bushings, and I've never heard a peep from them. Maybe I'm lucky. :)

[bahnstormer]

i actually didn't have any grease avail so i put
some vasoline was what i used....no squeaks
yet...

when i go down there to retorque everything
i'll re grease em with something good...

http://www.performanceproducts.com/ProductPage.aspx?productname=Magic-Lube+Plastic+Bushing+Grease&productid=103929&producttype=10&referer=1469

looks cool....

[632 Regal]

vasoline=petrolium=eating urethane.

[avitt2]

I've got the same setup, and I'm loving it....I do get a little rub on the front left tire at full lock...Anyone else experience this?

[genphreak]

You are truly a poet :)

Glad to hear they're in; Happy motoring!
-ashley

the installation details were starting to sound pretty hot... LOL

Best of luck putting some twist in those new bars once you get into some out-of the way corners....

:) GP

[Jason]

it does it with the 17s AND with the 15s ive tried sliding the bar over to the right but it doesnt matter cause they shift anyway.

[bahnstormer]

yeah they rub on full lock, no biggie...i never use full lock
anyway, cuz its tough on the PS...

i found the lube/grease that RD gave me but they include
very little in their kit.... meh =\

http://www.eden.rutgers.edu/~szwarc/e34/swayBars/100_0402%20(Large).jpg

http://www.eden.rutgers.edu/~szwarc/e34/swayBars/100_0403%20(Large).jpg

http://www.eden.rutgers.edu/~szwarc/e34/swayBars/100_0404%20(Large).jpg

[Jeff N.]

Couple thoughts...

- I really like my RD bars as well..really snugged up the car with the Dinan spring shock setup. Did add some harshness and jiggle to the car but nothing too bad.

- lube the links in the back, that's what seems to squeek in mine, not the bushings themselves. Doing it at an oil change is a really good idea...

- want to really have some fun now? Add the IE front camber plates. Get the fixed ones for about $125 or so. Swap out your 9mm front spring pads for 3mm pads to offset the nose lift if you want. Adds about -1.25 degrees of front end camber. Really helps turn-in. Whhheeeeeee!

- be REAL careful with your new setup as you push the limits. With a stiff rear setting, you now have a setup that will more easily rotate the car. In the dry, our cars generally won't do power oversteer but will very much do trailing throttle oversteer. A stiff rear bar will increase the tendency for this to occur. TTO will "surprise" you if you're not ready for it so you'll want to read up on it and be ready if you do experiance it.

Have fun!

[bahnstormer]

i'm quite ready for it =]
i learned a lot in rally school in finland
and the only scary thing is how much speed
a 3500lb car can carry through the corner

corners that i used to hear tire squeal are now
about 5-10mph faster and corner exit speeds
are incredible with LSD + sways...

i have to often slow down to merge onto the freeway =]

[bahnstormer]

btw do u know of anyplaces to have my car
corner weighted?

the sachs setup has 2 spring perches in the rear
shocks and i chose the higher one to prevent crazy
negative rear camber, and i got a bit of a rake now
the front sits lower than the rear...i think my weight
distribution might be off , ie front heavy

[Jeff N.]

Driving schools are a good thing. Not sure what a rally teaches you. Was it a TSD rally?

Re TTO - are you reallly ready for it? Let's do a little quiz and find out! :D

a) Describe what TTO is.
b) Under what condition - driving inputs - will you create TTO?
c) What is the appropriate correction for TTO?
d) Why is TTO particularily dangerous for novice drivers and/or people not familar with the car?

Re corner weighting...hmmm...I would say any race should should be able to corner weight the car. I recall adjustable coilovers would really be required to make any meaningful adjustments. If you do do this, I'd be curious in what you discover.

Cheers!

Jeff

[bahnstormer]

by rally i mean wrc style....not sure if u're familiar with it?

we had rwd ford escort cosworths in finland... 9000rpm redline
and 4 speed racing gear box =]

even though it was on gravel, the amount of grip was INCREDIBLE


[quote]
Real VW's (true Beetles, Buses, and Porsches) were rear-engined. This
meant that all of the weight was in the rear. Letting up on the gas in
cars such as these could lead to a nasty condition called "trailing
throttle oversteer": going into a turn, letting up on the gas, and
suddenly, the steering wheel becomes a nasty item producing turns much more
violent than intended. This is a simple law of physics and nothing
remarkable.
[quote]

its also called lift off oversteer sometimes...

i find that the best drifting action is late braking into a corner, upsetting the
rear tires grip and letting them slide =]

tto is best corrected by oppisite lock and throttle, or don't lift off like a wussy =]

if u're not ready for it and go in way too hot, it'll spin u right around before u have
a chance to countersteer...

i'm wondering though if the manual for the RD sways is correct...
the say that the further towards the edge of the sways the stiffer it is?
and i saw a show on speed where they stated the oppisite?

[Jeff N.]

Yup. You're in the right area. The danger of TTO is that it is counter intuiative. Lifting the throttle while in a corner causes the car to rotate towards the inside of the turn. You have to be at the edge of the friction circle to have this happen of course.

Particularily dangerous for those unfamiliar with it as "lifting" is generally the natural correction for most problems.

Common error sequence is this: Go into a corner too hot...car is pushing to the outside of the turn...add more steering input to attempt to move the car to the apex...lift the throttle to adjust speed and whoooooa...the combination of the added input and unloading of rear wheels causes a spin to the inside of the turn. Of course, this is most driving courses will teach straight line braking so you don't enter the turn too hot - lot's of bad things happen from that, no?

Snugged up bars are most dangerous in the wet and really bad in the snow. Be careful who you loan your car to in slippery conditions.

It happens quick - I spun my car at nearly 80 + (baaaad) during a lapping day in similar sequence. I was turning the car in when the car in front of me clipped the apex cone. Cone shot right into my line...I was gonna tater the thing at speed. Didn't really want to do that soooo...I just added just a tad more steering aaaannnnnndddd lifted the throttle just a biiiiiit and whhoooooops...around it went. There was no recoverying at that speed, I was in for the ride. Fortunately, it was a big open track and I didn't hit anything in the nearly 300 ft of skidding it took to stop. :)

cya!

[winfred]

ahhh drop throttle oversteer, the bane of clean underwear and 911 owners


Lifting the throttle while in a corner causes the car to rotate towards the inside of the turn

[winfred]

oversteer when the passinger is sweating http://members.cox.net/wdixon27/lol.gif
understeer when the driver is sweating http://members.cox.net/wdixon27/puke.gif

[Jeff N.]

ahhh drop throttle oversteer, the bane of clean underwear and 911 owners

hehe...I hear the new 911's are much better. I think Porsche sorted that out in the mid 80's. Vicious before than.

Of course, I wouldn't know not having one.

I can attest that riding in a GT3 is a helluva lot of fun! Working with the local PCA chapter is a blast if nothing else for the cars you get to ride in!

[Mobius]

i'm wondering though if the manual for the RD sways is correct...
the say that the further towards the edge of the sways the stiffer it is?
and i saw a show on speed where they stated the oppisite?You sure you're reading that right?

The holes at the end of the bars would be the softest setting.

From an earlier post of mine in another swaybar thread:
Stiffen the front (either with a bigger bar, or by moving the end links IN) or soften the rear to increase understeer (decrease oversteer).

Soften the front (either with a smaller bar, or by moving the end links OUT) or stiffen the rear to increase oversteer (decrease understeer).

http://rogerkrausracing.com/overundr.html

That's also how it's mentioned in the instructions that came with my Dinan bars.

[bahnstormer]

this is my fav site for suspension tuning guides
http://www.susquehanna.com/susq/other/stuning.htm

let me go reread the manual, and most likely adjust the sways...