Centerlink removal problem

[Lennyz525i]

Sup guys,
I was planning to finally replace my centerlink and I ended up with a car that I can't drive anymore.

1) I have several pickel forks and a balljoint seperator that works great on all balljoints, except for the ones on the centerlink. What kind of seperator did you guys use to seperate the balljoints there? A pickel fork is hard to use at that location with a car on jackstands.

2) My goddamn!! tie rod ends won't lock when I try to re-install them into the centerlink. I jacked up the steering arm to put the arms under pressure but the tie rod end just won't lock so I can't tighten the nut, grrrr. I've had this problem before and ended up taking it somewhere (the ride of shame). The tie rod ends are from FCP, maybe I'm getting what I deserve. Anyone else had this problem?

Thanks for help and advice!

[632 Regal]

Lenny, in condomplating my own centerlink expidition your post concerns me...I guess mine isnt that bad.

When you put pressure so you can tighten it try tapping the other side to get the thing to "set"?

Another thing I have done is use a NON-LOCKING nut to snug it all together then remove it and put the locking one back on and torque it.

[Lennyz525i]

I tried tapping it a little but it seems like the taper needs a good whack to put in place. Using a non locking nut to get the thing set sounds like a good idea.

[Kalevera]

Hey Lenny.

I used a pickle fork, 4lb hammer, and a lot of PB blaster to pull my old steering components. All replacements were from FCP, as well.

Even with a large pair of water pump pliers, I couldn't get the ball joints to tighten on the center link, so I tightened them "just enough" to drive the car a few miles and then had the alignment people torque them to spec, which happened like a day later (and you really want to have an alignment done on the front when you replace those parts ;).

My FCP (trw...hamburg-technic?) links seem to be holding up well. I probably should've shot them with a little more paint prior to installing, but what can you do...

best, whit

EDIT: the idea with the WP pliers is to compress the links together at the joint so that the ball doesn't move...should work in theory (just didn't for me...and the FCP nuts are nylockers...how 'bout THEM nuts?!)

[632 Regal]

Exactly, its all about the nuts.

[Lennyz525i]

"I couldn't get the ball joints to tighten on the center link, so I tightened them "just enough" to drive the car a few miles and then had the alignment people torque them to spec, which happened like a day later"
That's exactly what I did the first time I replaced those tie rod ends, a while back. I replaced everything but the center link, which I'm replacing (attempting to at least) now because the car wanders over bumps and tramlines.

I wasn't able to manauver myself into a position where I could deliver a good bang onto the pickel fork to seperate the centerlink balljoints, can't get the car high enough. I'm gonna look around for a tool that will work on these particular balljoints.

[Lennyz525i]

Btw, Has anyone used this 266H tool to seperate the centerlink from the pitman arm and idler arm? http://www.technictool.com/s55-general.htm

[632 Regal]

tool looks kinda cool. ummm...just babbling here, did you try to turn the steering wheel all the way either direction to get a better angle to beat the piss out of it? I have this same thing to look forward to soon. Did the non locking nut trick work or you saving that til you get defeated by the draglink?

[liquidtiger720]

my puller looked kind of liek this http://www.technictool.com/images/BMW/312-240%20complete%20kit.jpg

[Kalevera]

Ooh, I thought you had everything out and didn't care about the old boots/whatnot.

What size/type tire are you running? these cars are notorious for tramlining with (even slightly) larger wheels. Mine pulls to the right due to uneven tire wear on the front pass side...right now, I'm too poor to fix it.

yech.

best, whit

[Lennyz525i]

tool looks kinda cool. ummm...just babbling here, did you try to turn the steering wheel all the way either direction to get a better angle to beat the piss out of it? I have this same thing to look forward to soon. Did the non locking nut trick work or you saving that til you get defeated by the draglink?

Well, because I couldn't get the draglink off, I decided to put the tie rod ends back in to at least have the car driving (I only have one car) until I would have found a tool or solution to get the drag link off. Lesson learnt, first try to dissassemble the tricky stuff... If I don't get a hold of a tool I'll use a pickle fork and beat the living piss out of it until I get the drag link off. Won't rest until I do.

I'm gonna try the non locking nut trick tonight. If that doesn't work I'll try the waterpump pliers.

[Lennyz525i]

my puller looked kind of liek this http://www.technictool.com/images/BMW/312-240%20complete%20kit.jpg

Did you also use that tool for the centerlink balljoints? Where did you get that tool? Thanks.

[MBXB]

JC Whitney:

Here's the thread where this was covered last year:

http://www.bimmer.info/forum/showthread.php?t=4858&highlight=Whitney

Ramon

[liquidtiger720]

Did you also use that tool for the centerlink balljoints? Where did you get that tool? Thanks.


Yup, I used it for everything. As for where I got it, I got it out of my girlfriends dad's toolbox, lol. If you need me to, let me know and I will ask him specifically where he got it.. (he is a mechanic)

[glen-sj]

Did you also use that tool for the centerlink balljoints? Where did you get that tool? Thanks.

Autozone has it for rent. I've used it to remove the upper and lower control arms.

glen-sj

[pmulry]

Holy crap it's impossible to get those ball joints out! I've been using pickle forks and tried every puller they rent at AutoZone, no luck. There's no room between the brake shield and the steering knuckle to slide in a 3-prong adjustable puller.

I think that the JC Whitney tools (or the more expensive cousins) must be the only way to go. Unless you've got access to a lift (or can borrow the tool from your indy), you just can't get enough leverage with a pickle fork to get that bad boy to pop out. I'm ordering the tools from JC Whitney today. Here's the part numbers for anybody else in this same boat:

SKU: ZX812149N DELUXE HEAVY-DUTY LEVER-TYPE BALL JOINT & TIE ROD END REMOVER
Total Price:$17.99 USD

SKU: ZX881770B TIE ROD/BALL JOINT EXTRACTOR (screw-type)
Total Price:$10.99 USD

Here's the pictures of the 2 tools:
http://www.patmulry.com/images/balljointlever.gif
http://www.patmulry.com/images/balljointscrew.gif

This job is impossible without the tools. Just no clearance for anything else. Anybody else who's contemplating changing out the upper thrust arms, please please please take my advice: get these tools before starting the job. I've already wasted 2 solid nights in the garage and three or 4 trips to AutoZone trying to find a puller that would work. If I'd known these tools were so essential and cheap, I would have bought them in advance of doing the job.

Cheers.

[632 Regal]

Dude this is a complete different animal!


Anybody else who's contemplating changing out the upper thrust arms

What have you used to whack the pickle fork with??? I had to use a #10 sledge to get mine on one side and the other I had to use an acetiline torch and hammer to get it to pop. You have to hit this sucker HARD man!

[byurko]

I bought a Facom ball joint separator from Steve at http://www.ultimategarage.com/. Here's the link - http://193.150.169.26/Frame.asp?langue=an&Cat=427.

http://193.150.169.26/images/photos/ensemble/grandes/p0006334.jpg

Worked like a charm!!!

Bryan

[pmulry]

I've been using a 5# hand sledge and pounding as hard as I can, given the limited space inside the fender and under the car with it up on the jacks. I don't think I'd have enough room to swing a sledgehammer! Maybe if it was up on a lift or something, but not just on jackstands.

These things had better work. I've got them coming overnight and then I have 2 nights left this week before we take that car on a 5-hour trip on Saturday. Damnit.

[632 Regal]

Theres room, just a pain in the a$$ if your not a huge dude. Believe me and my spindly butt were sweating and swinging... I did mine on stands with only 3 feet between me and the bench, would have lifted it farther if I knew. The other side popped in only about 10-12 heavy swings, the 3 foot side needed heat.


I've been using a 5# hand sledge and pounding as hard as I can, given the limited space inside the fender and under the car with it up on the jacks. I don't think I'd have enough room to swing a sledgehammer!

[pmulry]

Did you pull the rotor, caliper mount, and brake shield? I've been trying to avoid doing all that since to get the shield off would require removing the wheel hub... wouldn't it? If that damned shield weren't in the way, this job would be about 50% easier.

[632 Regal]

yes, I removed the struts and mount, better angle and much easier. Almost impossible without.

[pmulry]

Argh. Not what I wanted to hear. Maybe these tools will help me to get it done without completely stripping the front end first....

Will update on Friday.