Front Strut Mounts, How Long should they last?

[Badkrma]

I think that mine are done! First of all I get a rattling sound as I drive. I have re-tightened everything after the Sachs Kit install. When I push down on the side of the car, the strut rod pushes upward. Is this the sign that the Strut Mount is broken? that is one pricey little part at $95 bucks (BMA price), not to mention I might as well change both sides out if one broke the other is about to.

[632 Regal]

the realoem page is dead, anyways are you sure you have #6 in the picture I cant pull up? LOL I'll try to get the pic for you. Mine are missing and I have the same exact problem.

[632 Regal]

sorry its #3,

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=HE23&mospid=47406&btnr=31_0123&hg=31&fg=10

[Badkrma]

I can not remember if I had one. All I know is that after the install everything was great and now I have that Frik'n rattle.

I thought that the front mounts rarely broke down, hence the reason for the post.

Thanks to all if you can help.

Jeff, I read your post on my search, is that what it turned out to be?

[Kalevera]

The rattle could be from a dust shield hitting the rotor as you navigate over bumps. I've currently got this problem. Bending the shield back a bit ameliorated things, but I still hear it with the windows down (and hitting rough pavement). It was caused by me standing the strut housing up, supported by the dust shield bottom, to manipulate the spring compressor and remove the top nut (while doing the sachs kit). Mine's FUBAR'd....which means I've got to pull the bearing in order to replace it; and I've artfully been putting that off, both due to not having much time and lacking a decent money supply at the moment.

So, check the dust shields. See if you can replicate the sound you're hearing by tapping the dust shield against the rotor while the car is on the ground (yes - it's harder to do, but in fact, mine are WORSE on the ground than they are in the air -- funky geometry, eh?).

best, whit

[Kalevera]

Also, the strut mounts could be shot as well, but I think they'll "crunch" when done, versus rattle. You should be able to get ~ 150k out of the fronts. Those suckers are *RIG-ID*, so if you can physically manipulate it, I'd replace it before you've got a hole in your hood, or worse.

best, whit

[Badkrma]

Thanks Whit.

I am actually thinking that I am missing the washer on the bottom side. I do not recall one there when I changed the stuff out. Might break down and get the mounts also, since I have 160K on the car. I am thinking back to the Sachs Kit install and the billstien struts I removed had a large diam. strut shaft and most likely didn't need a washer to keep it from pushing through the strut mount. I am going to jack it up tonight when I get off work and see. Thank you for your help.

Stephen

[Mobius]

I am actually thinking that I am missing the washer on the bottom side. I do not recall one there when I changed the stuff out. Might break down and get the mounts also, since I have 160K on the car. I am thinking back to the Sachs Kit install and the billstien struts I removed had a large diam. strut shaft and most likely didn't need a washer to keep it from pushing through the strut mount. I am going to jack it up tonight when I get off work and see. Thank you for your help.Yeah, that sounds likely. The washer on the bottom is pretty big, and without it, the nut on top might bottom out on the threads before the top is actually tight. The washer also serves as a surface the bumpstop and crush against.

The upper strut bearings are reportedly very long lived. 200k miles easy. I know mine at 168k still spun smoothly without any binding. A failed upper strut bearing usually makes itself known with a consistent creaking when turning the steering from lock to lock.

[Kalevera]

Ah -- I didn't even think of that! Good stuff...

[Badkrma]

Well I had a chance to look at it last night I am missing #3 as you said Jeff. Will Just misisng that cause the problem? I looks like the strut shaft is a large enough diam that it won't slide into the sleeve on the strut mount. Help! If I have to take it all apart again, I want to make sure it is fixed.....

[632 Regal]

well I think about it as this, theres supposed to be a washer there and its missing. I ordered a couple last time I placed an order and these things are THICK not a little thin washer deal. Im figuring without it in there its not preloading the upper strut mount right and the shock is free to jump around on bumps like Mobius said. I havent pulled mine out yet to replace it yet. Was thinking about trying to pop it in there without removing the strut assembly...someone told me thats not possible...hmmm. Im gonna give that a whirl and if not ill yank the things.

[Badkrma]

I guess i will get them ordered. I just don't really want to put the thing apart and still have the dame problem..... the other thing is WHAT THE HELL HAPPED TO THEM???? I know that they just didn't fly ways......

[Robin-535im]

I did the same thing once when replacing my shocks, but luckily noticed before I put it back in the car because the nut bottomed out on the threads before clamping down on the strut.

Nothing to add to your dilemma really, just sharing.

:)

[Mobius]

Definitely order them and definitely replace them.

The top of the strut shaft is tapered to match a chamfer in that washer. The washer is what is supposed to make contact with the strut bearing; not the tapered bit on the strut shaft.

Without that washer, you've been putting a lot of load on a very small area, so inspect the strut shaft and the strut bearing where they meet for damage. I can imagine that possibly that tapered bit on the strut shaft has forced its way into the strut bearing - which could be bad.

[drum2430]

I think that mine are done! First of all I get a rattling sound as I drive. I have re-tightened everything after the Sachs Kit install. When I push down on the side of the car, the strut rod pushes upward. Is this the sign that the Strut Mount is broken? that is one pricey little part at $95 bucks (BMA price), not to mention I might as well change both sides out if one broke the other is about to.

Hey Badkrma,

I have a pair of adjustable camber front mounts that were only in my '90 535 for about 4 months (maybe 4000 miles). I had lowered the car and then went back to stock height and therefore did not need them anymore. Bavarian Motorsports charged me $300.00 for them. They are of no use to me so if you are interested I'll accept any reasonable offer.

Gordo.

[Badkrma]

Gordo.

I am pulling it apart today, I will let you know if I need them.

[Jon K]

Gordo.

I am pulling it apart today, I will let you know if I need them.



In theory, with the right spring compressors (not the ones pepboys lent me though), you shoudl be able to compress the springs from in the wheel well, loosen the nuts on the top of the strut, drop the whole assembly down and replace. In theory... of course.

[632 Regal]

my theory is loosen the big nut, jack the car up so the shock pulls out of the bearing, install the washer and lower the car down...wouldnt that be nice?

[Mobius]

my theory is loosen the big nut, jack the car up so the shock pulls out of the bearing, install the washer and lower the car down...wouldnt that be nice?
That could.. maybe.. work..

Be careful when settling the car back down - make sure the rod lines up with the hole, and make sure the spring stays seated correctly in its perch.

[Badkrma]

Well I got it done. No more rattle........ Took only about an hour and a half..... I am not sure if it was the washers or not, but I do know that the rattle is gone. Thank you for all of your help.

[632 Regal]

how did you do it? remove the strut housings or just the one nut theory?