HELP! I Can use it baaaadly!

[SkyWalker]

Alright here's the scoup all you masterminds and gurus out there.
I have a 95 525i (E34). Was driving around when I noticed steam coming out under the hood. Pulled over and the top radiator hose that connects the radiator to the engine had popped off. Of course I went and found some water and refilled the half empty water fluid stuff. Put the hose back on and clamped it tight. Went like 200 yards and there we are again. Over heated again, pulled over and sent wife home with a friend. Managed to pull into a parking lot a bit later and called some friends over to help. I thought it could be the thermostat since the water was getting hot in the radiator so I bought one and after like three hours of work in the dark... no result. Still same problem. The top right radiator hose (facing the car) was heating well but the return one on the left side was cold. Put the heater on full blast and it was blowing cold. New thermostat made no difference and Im running out of idea's on what it could be. Flushed, Bleeded and all that other good stuff. Gave the hose a nice massage to make sure it removed all the air but still no luck. Im lucky the engine didnt burn out this last time because it was like beyond the red mark... :(
This is my only car and means of transportation right now so please help if you have any idea's.

[PhilipJCaputo]

I suppose you could have some kind of blockage which is stopping the flow of coolant through the radiator and possibly popping the hose off the radiator.

how old is the radiator?? These radiators don't last much beyond say 8-9 years, so it might be time for a radiator change (really pretty simple to do).

Maybe the water pump is janked... I suppose one of those being out could pretty well stop the flow of coolant.

I'm sure you'll get a few more responses by others who are more familiar with your engine setup.

you can always check out www.bmwe34.net till you hear something, and don't forget to search the forums, lots of good answers already posted in previous posts.



Alright here's the scoup all you masterminds and gurus out there.
I have a 95 525i (E34). Was driving around when I noticed steam coming out under the hood. Pulled over and the top radiator hose that connects the radiator to the engine had popped off. Of course I went and found some water and refilled the half empty water fluid stuff. Put the hose back on and clamped it tight. Went like 200 yards and there we are again. Over heated again, pulled over and sent wife home with a friend. Managed to pull into a parking lot a bit later and called some friends over to help. I thought it could be the thermostat since the water was getting hot in the radiator so I bought one and after like three hours of work in the dark... no result. Still same problem. The top right radiator hose (facing the car) was heating well but the return one on the left side was cold. Put the heater on full blast and it was blowing cold. New thermostat made no difference and Im running out of idea's on what it could be. Flushed, Bleeded and all that other good stuff. Gave the hose a nice massage to make sure it removed all the air but still no luck. Im lucky the engine didnt burn out this last time because it was like beyond the red mark... :(
This is my only car and means of transportation right now so please help if you have any idea's.

[SkyWalker]

I'm thinking something might have clogged the path in there somewhere, but I have no idea how to start looking and how to get it out. The radiator actually seems fine to me. I think I'll go with the clogged method and push on that to see what happens. Any other suggestions would be awesome though :)

[casurfer911]

Sounds to me like there is still air in the system, I dont know how similar the cooling system is on the 525 but with mine you can see a tiny stream of water comming out of the side of the fill nozzle when you rev the engine. If the stream is constant then there is no air in the system. Good Luck!

[Kalevera]

I bet the car's got a plastic impellered water pump and that sucka's shattered/disintegrated, hence the coolant isn't moving and the car's utterly overheating within a minute or two of a cold start. A common M50 problem.

This is a well discussed topic. Call BMA (or visit the local dealership if you've got a CCA discount/big pockets) and have Patrick send a pump with a metal impeller (and get an aluminum housing if the current one is plastic). He sent me a Geba last time around; Winfred seems to like the Hepus and Grafs much better, so I'd get one of those instead.

Best, whit

[Javier]

coming out.

Javier

[Tiger]

Yep, Sounds like waterpump is bad.

[SkyWalker]

Yep, Sounds like waterpump is bad.

Alright, I'll give it a shot today! But how can I get access to the water pump and get it replaced?

Thanks!

[Kalevera]

Direct from Bentley:

NOTE - Only replacemet coolant pumps with metal impellers should be installed. Pumps with plastic impellers should not be used. (hehehe)

1. Disconnect negative (-) cable from battery. (hahaha!)
2. With engine cold, drain cooling system as described earlier (more on this in a second...)

WARNING - Allow cooling system to cool before opening or draining system (duh!)

3) Remove fan clutch assembly and fan shroud [...]

NOTE - The radiator cooling fan nut (32mm wrench) has left-hand threads.

4) Loosen hose clampes and remove hoses from thermostat housing.

5) Loosen coolant pump pully mounting bolts. Then remove drive belt....REmove pulley from pump.

6) Remove four coolant pump mounting nuts.

7) Using two M6 bolts, thread them into ears on either side of pump. Then slowly and evenly turn bolts in until pump is drawn out.

8) Using a new O-ring, install new coolant pump on its studs. Tightne nuts alternately and evenly until pump is firmly seated. Then tighten nuts to their final torque..

CAUTION - Failure to tighten pump mounting nuts evenly could result in damage to pump and/or timing chain cover.

NOTE - For easier installation, coat coolant pump O-ring with a thin layer of petroleum jelly (actually, I'd use Hylomar instead).

9) The remainder of installation is reverse of removal. Install coolant pump pulley, cooling fan, and fan shroud. Fill system with coolant and bleed system....

Tightening Toques: Pump to TCC - 10 nm / 89 in-lbs ; Pulley to Pump - 10 nm / 89 in-labs.


-----

A few notes:

- It's a good idea to pick up a copy of the Bentley manual if you do your own work -- there's a link at the top of the board.

- On my car, it's not necessary to completely drain the system to replace the pump, it can be done by lifting the front of the car and pulling the old one off (a mild mess) or by simply draining the radiator and forgetting about the block (13mm plastic bolt at the driver's side bottom). Having said that, it might need to be drained on the M50 because the pump is physically mounted lower down on the engine block, which means that pulling the old one could result in having anything left in the upper cooling jackets/head spill out as you pull it. Be sure to use Cool Blue or an appropriate alternative when the system is refilled (and mix 50/50 w/ distilled water, then pour it in with the bleed screw open and the fan blower turned on HIGH and HOT). 100% water will not work

- When I was talking about the plastic housing -- I meant the plastic tstat cover. Check to see if the car has one; replace it if it does :)

best,whit

[632 Regal]

I'll still think its an air pocket, bets anyone?

Let us know about that waterpump....curious on this one.

[pong]

i had d same overheating problem before.. .the verdict... a not so fully closed radiator cap and air in the system...