How long do you think i should run with seaform before i change the oil?

[infinity5]

I was going to dump a can into the crankcase per the bottle instructions before my next oil change but i was wondering how long you guys think i should run like that before i change the oil.. obviously not too long, but i'd like to leave it in there as long as i can :)

i already tossed a bottle in the gas tank, figured i'd do both at once and then change my PCV plate. die smoking exhaust, die

[ryan roopnarine]

immediately....maybe 5 miles at most? its the same stoddard solvent/napatha-y stuff as techron, other fuel system cleaners....it probably cuts the lubrication quality of the oil down to at least 20w. what do you wanna accomplish by leaving it in there longer?

[infinity5]

that short? I had no idea one way or the other, thats why i asked (i'm glad i did, aparently). i just figured i'd like to exhaust its cleaning properties before i changed my oil, so if a few minutes is it then i'll run it just a few minutes :)

I guess i should have know.. something to dissolve carbon and gunk build up is probably going to destroy oil.

[Russell]

I think the following link will get you there. Seafoam is discussed quite often. Check the archives in the fuel or additive section. I do not rememmber the exact section name.


http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php


I was going to dump a can into the crankcase per the bottle instructions before my next oil change but i was wondering how long you guys think i should run like that before i change the oil.. obviously not too long, but i'd like to leave it in there as long as i can :)

i already tossed a bottle in the gas tank, figured i'd do both at once and then change my PCV plate. die smoking exhaust, die

[Blitzkrieg Bob]

Drive to the parts place. pick oil, filters and a box of belly button lint.

have a few beers, and change the oil.

That's just a few miles to get up to running temp and get it flowing into all the un pressurized areas where the gunk hangs out..

[632 Regal]

I wouldnt dump it in the oil...lack of lubrication is not good for anything let alone canshafts and crank/rod bearings. If you use synthetic it will eventually clean it up too...safely.

[Blitzkrieg Bob]

The Seafoam treatment is meant to be a periodic treatment to clean, de carbonize and de gum a dirty system. Not an every oil change routine.

16oz of seafoam on top of 5 qts of oil shouldn't hurt for a few minutes, and in most cases all you want it to do is loosen up the gunk so the new oil can do it's job.

On really bad engines. We used to dump the oil and run kerosene for a while to break up the sluge.

[franks]

I would recommened auto rx it is safe and works great.

[infinity5]

[QUOTE=Blitzkrieg Bob] a box of belly button lint.QUOTE]

?!

[Blitzkrieg Bob]

that is filled with shredded rag and fluff.

Looks like King Kong's belley button link collection

[Gene in NC]

M1 not obviously effective on varnish on valve train. Our tow truck with GM 5.7 has 195k with 190k on synthetics, last 30 k on M1 15w50. Burns a quart evey 3.5k.

Valve cover has a horizontal baffle just below the oil filler. Varnish on that beffle is unchanged to "worse" than at 165k.

Plenty of varnish in m30 head similar M1 use. However, most any solvent, inc WD 40 seems to flush the varnish.

Maybe substituting a quart of MMytery in the crankcase is the way. Nissan 3.0 v6 with over 300k and infrequent oil service had a completely collapsed hyd lifter. GGAM what a racket. One q of MM in oil change and prob cleared up completely in 5 min .