Stalling, Dieing, Dead

[Mewkalewk]

Well im new here, but have been really enjoying this board. But now I have a problem.

'91 525i M50 engine 117K miles. The car will shut itself off randomly, independent of rpm or coolant temp. Sometimes it will save itself by revving itself to about 2k then coming back down to normal. Also when leaving from a light it will try to kill itself, it usually does but starts right back up.

Today I experienced another problem, it seemed liked the car overheated. It was in the red so I shut it off and checked under the hood but everything seemed fine!? I start driving home and it fixed itself?!

I have tried the stomp test but all I seem to get is 1111.
Can someone please help? I really love this car but it just has a few issues that I have no idea to fix.

THANKS

-MewK

[Kalevera]

Welcome!

Sounds like a fusible link issue to me, but it could be DME related. First thing is to check the fusible link, located under the rear seat, right/pass side of the car. Do a search on the forums for "fusible link" and you'll find a ton of info.

Best, whit

[Gene in NC]

Spent almost two years fighting similar problems on '89 525a. Tried a lot of things that seemed to improve but didn't last.

Weak grounds give the system and its sensors a fit. If a major ground is weak a substitute ground will be found and random electrical noise can give the sensor network and the ecu a fit. Check out the chassis and engine grounds, clean, tighten and get Stabilant contact enhancer from VW dealer. Stabilant is an official VW shoptool/supply.

Finally cleared up problem by replacing rotor and dist cap. EE friend advised, based on his experience w situation where he figured that cross firing in distributor cap would occasionally fire a cylinder when intake valve was open, and this would burn all fuel in the intake manifold. You may not buy the theory but replacing the cap and rotor finally cleared all stumbles.

However, after over a year wifey reported today that it cut off a a light. Uncertain whether while idling or accelerating or if trouble may be returning.

After going through all of this I understand the logic of the shop that wants to do a full Service 2, or whatever it's called, if one is overdue. If I had done that the misery of the mystery stumbles might have been completely avoided.

[Mewkalewk]

Is the fusible link a flat plate of metal about a 1/4" wide? if so then its fine. Im guessing that it may have something to do with something being loose.

At times when I go to start the car it will just go dead and not start. No power to anything. But if I screw around with the back seat a little(pop it up or take it out and put it back in.) everything comes back to life.

please help./.
Thanks

-MewK

[Kalevera]

That's likely a fusible link problem.

http://www.bmwe34.net/e34main/maintenance/electrical/fusible_link.htm

Best, whit

[BobHarris]

I found that it was a good idea to remove the fusible link to check it when mine was mucking me about, I had looked at it thinking it was fine, when in fact it had cracked through under the bolt and this could not easily be seen.

HTH

Bob

[Mewkalewk]

Today I completely removed the fusible link and its all in one piece, no cracks. Any other ideas guys..

Thanks

-MewK

[Pwr2spare]

it could be that your fuel pump has died.

[632 Regal]

fuel filters might be clogged, you can check pressure but it will probably be good until the filters re-accumulate with dirt. Replace them first.

[Mewkalewk]

Ok ill change those today.. Im guessing I can goto the site and it will tell me how to change those? Or you guys know where I can get the info on how to change those?
Can I just buy those from autozoo?

Thanks

-MewK

[Mewkalewk]

Changed the filter, but the problem is still there...
Anything else guys.. please help.

Thanks

-MewK

[Kalevera]

Get the car on a scanner and see what's going on with the electrical system? (I still think it's electrical)

Might be a good idea to check fuel pressure.

[Mewkalewk]

Well, I went to a shop (Motronix in FL) I got the car scanned but they only found that the A/C Compressor Clutch is slipping. They also did a test for vac leaks but no leaks.
So.. Guys what else can I look to here.. I dont want to have to put it in a shop for them to figure it out if I can do this myself..

Any other Ideas?¿

THANKS

-MewK

[CheapCheap1]

Pls try to disconnect the battery for 15-30mins--to clear the error code & reset the control system. (Don't forget to note down the radio code & other security code, if any!!!)

Good lucks...

[632 Regal]

had to re-read this whole deal here.

ummm over heat, revving on its own, fixed itself...I would have to lay money on a head gasket here.

Any takers?

[Kalevera]

Jeff - I don't get the logic behind it? The overheating part is logical...but the revving on it's own?

dunno...

best, whit

[Mewkalewk]

I tried the battery reset thing but no dice..
The reving is from the idle air valve being opened to try and stop the car from dieing.

I too was starting to think a headgasket was in order.. As I periodically loose coolant through the week with no noticable source. If I do need a headgasket then..

How difficult are we talking here? Or is it unthinkable?¿

THANKS

-MewK

[Mewkalewk]

Actually guys.. on a second reading I was having.. I think the fuel pump is going..
take a look at the symptoms...
http://www.bmwe34.net/e34main/maintenance/engine/FuelPump.htm

-MewK

[Mewkalewk]

What do you guys think??

[Mewkalewk]

Well, I found the problem to be the spark plugs that had in the car...
I was running some Splitfire Plugs, then I read somewhere about not running those plugs. I went and got the OE plugs and all is good!!!!

I still have a slight miss at idle and till about 3k, then the motor clears up and revs clean. Also when I changed the plugs I notice some oil in 2 of the plug holes...??
Any things I can check to fix this miss?

THANKS

-MewK

[dacoyote]

Oil in the plug wells = valve cover gasket.

Trust me... it's something you want to change, its easy as long as you have a tourqe wrench.

Took me about a hour to swap and that includes beer drinking time.

Charles

[brodee]

I still have a slight miss at idle and till about 3k, then the motor clears up and revs clean. Also when I changed the plugs I notice some oil in 2 of the plug holes...??
Any things I can check to fix this miss?

I would say plug boots, especially if some of the wells had oil in them. Change the valve cover gasket to fix the leak, clean out the wells, and put on new boots. Gasket and boots are cheap from bmaparts.com.

[Mewkalewk]

Thanks guys.. Ill order those up ASAP!

And brodee, how did you get your 525iM lowered in the front like that?
Before I put in the new front struts my car looked like that. Now it looks like your Touring car.

-MewK

[brodee]

And brodee, how did you get your 525iM lowered in the front like that?

Photoshop :D I haven't lowered it yet, just did it ont he computer to see how it would look.

[Mewkalewk]

oh..
HAHa NICE!

[Gene in NC]

REcommend reread of my earlier post. How many miles since Dist cap/rotor change?

[brodee]

REcommend reread of my earlier post. How many miles since Dist cap/rotor change?

Re-read his initial post:

'91 525i M50 engine

M50 engine doesn't have a distributer to have a cap and rotor. They use individual direct fire coils for each cylinder.