Bought a Touring Tonight

[gtopaul]

I looked at a 92 525iT yesterday, Cashmere Beige, 183k miles, clean interior, heated seats, and made seller an offer of $3300 tonight and he took it. I'll pick up tomorrow. Car drives and shifts nice. Feels like a ball joint or control arm is bad but I can replace those in my sleep now. New tires, new radiator, new exhaust system including cat, new sealed beam headlights. One question though, I'm planning on lowering the front but want at least a 1" drop. Won't any H&R or Eibach springs for a 525i accomplish that up front? Am I correct in assuming that all the early wagons have the self-adjusting rear suspension? I have a set of 18" Alpina like wheels off my 540 that might work until I find something I like better. Can't wait to pick up the old girl tomorrow. :-)

Thanks!

Paul L

[632 Regal]

Congrats paul! The eibachs or H & R will drop it about an inch they go lower with V8 weight. Sounds like most of the maintenance items have been done just a fine polishing of front end componants to follow. I have no idea about the self leveling option...yet!
LOL

[emw525E34]

Welcome to the Touring world. I am also considering lowering the front-end as it does look much more "racked up" than a sedan. Only problem is lower springs lower it by too much !!!. It will spoil the rear ride comfort as the suspension becomes a lot more stiffer!.

Trying to find a compromise. And I am considering cutting the front stock springs maybe one coil or a bit less. Holding on to the stock rears as lowering springs for rear had about 4 coils almost stuck to each other giving very little "bounce", hence resulting in stiff rear!.

After a few week's drive, tell me how different it is compared to your 540 sedan.

[genphreak]

I looked at a 92 525iT yesterday, Cashmere Beige, 183k miles, clean interior, heated seats, and made seller an offer of $3300 tonight and he took it. I'll pick up tomorrow. Car drives and shifts nice. Feels like a ball joint or control arm is bad but I can replace those in my sleep now. New tires, new radiator, new exhaust system including cat, new sealed beam headlights. One question though, I'm planning on lowering the front but want at least a 1" drop. Won't any H&R or Eibach springs for a 525i accomplish that up front? Am I correct in assuming that all the early wagons have the self-adjusting rear suspension? I have a set of 18" Alpina like wheels off my 540 that might work until I find something I like better. Can't wait to pick up the old girl tomorrow. :-)

Thanks!

Paul L Nice, so where are the pics, you didn't u take any yet??? :D when you do be sure to post 2048 pixel wide pics and crash the server for Ed... :D

[brodee]

I am also considering lowering the front-end as it does look much more "racked up" than a sedan. Only problem is lower springs lower it by too much !!!. It will spoil the rear ride comfort as the suspension becomes a lot more stiffer!

I bought a set of M5 front springs to put on our touring. Should only lower it by about 3/4". Just enough to lose some gap, but not give it a harsh ride.

[DrewZ]

I wouldn't count on the M5 springs lowering the front of the Touring. I tried the same thing on my old 535i sedan, but the M5 springs actually increased the front ride height. I attributed it to the extra weight that the M5 carries (according to the ETK, the S38 short block weighs 30kg more than the M50 short block). If you're looking for a 1/2" to 1" drop in front, try the factory sport springs. With the stock spring pads, you'll get a 1/2-3/4" drop. With 3mm spring pads, you'll get a 3/4-1" drop.

Drew Zacharda

6-speed Touring (with factory sport springs and 3mm upper spring pads)

http://members.aol.com/apzjd/16RKsummersmall.jpg (http://www.bmwe34.net/ASP/DURegistry/RegDetail.asp?id=100)



I bought a set of M5 front springs to put on our touring. Should only lower it by about 3/4". Just enough to lose some gap, but not give it a harsh ride.

[gtopaul]

I wouldn't count on the M5 springs lowering the front of the Touring. I tried the same thing on my old 535i sedan, but the M5 springs actually increased the front ride height. I attributed it to the extra weight that the M5 carries (according to the ETK, the S38 short block weighs 30kg more than the M50 short block). If you're looking for a 1/2" to 1" drop in front, try the factory sport springs. With the stock spring pads, you'll get a 1/2-3/4" drop. With 3mm spring pads, you'll get a 3/4-1" drop.

Drew Zacharda

6-speed Touring (with factory sport springs and 3mm upper spring pads)

http://members.aol.com/apzjd/16RKsummersmall.jpg (http://www.bmwe34.net/ASP/DURegistry/RegDetail.asp?id=100)



Does anyone know the part number for the 3mm spring pads? Leaning towards the M-tech Sport springs at the moment. Front seems way up in the air compared to my lowered (H&R) 540. I just bought the car home tonight. Rides like a champ at 80mph. Will get tune-up parts for a redo this weekend and put on a rack tomorrow to scope out the front end work needed. Interior is in awesome shape for the mileage with the exception of a couple of loose door panel inserts. Glue or epoxy to fix? Will post a pic tomorrow if I get a chance.

Paul

[DrewZ]

31 33 1 128 523


Does anyone know the part number for the 3mm spring pads? Leaning towards the M-tech Sport springs at the moment. Front seems way up in the air compared to my lowered (H&R) 540. I just bought the car home tonight. Rides like a champ at 80mph. Will get tune-up parts for a redo this weekend and put on a rack tomorrow to scope out the front end work needed. Interior is in awesome shape for the mileage with the exception of a couple of loose door panel inserts. Glue or epoxy to fix? Will post a pic tomorrow if I get a chance.

Paul

[gtopaul]

Nice, so where are the pics, you didn't u take any yet??? :D when you do be sure to post 2048 pixel wide pics and crash the server for Ed... :D

Only had time to take a quick pic tonight. I've ordered a pair of control arms and sway bar links for the front end. Got a great price from FCPGroton. Going to take tomorrow and try and get a trans fluid flush. Bought a case of brake-kleen to clean up the underside of the engine compartment from years of accumulated dirt and grease. Will install new spark plugs tomorrow and change rear end lube. Once the ride is stabilized I'll look into the lowering springs. It has new struts up front and it looks like it's all wheel drive it's so high. ;) Can someone put me onto the correct CD changer model I would need?

Thanks!

Paul

http://members.aol.com/paul3130/private/525001.jpg

[Elekta]

Road Trip
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/ggil-tx/bmw/DSCN1995.jpg

There really is nothing like driving tank after tank at 70+ in a Touring. It is the most aptly named car I have ever owned. (that's south texas caliche muddin up the tourer...11miles of it before hitting the .9 mile runway seen in background to quail hacienda last feb)

Cheers..

geoffrey

[brodee]

We need to start an e34 touring registry somewhere with pics and info on all of them. Hmmmmm, I have a webserver sitting here on this T1 too ;)

[emw525E34]

I second that. Mine is 525iT Euro Manual. Yes, nice stick shift. Custom made armrest/console box.

[gtopaul]

Too much time on my hands this weekend so decided to put the 18" wheels on to see how much the front needs to be lowered. A bunch evidently. I swear there's 4 inches of space in there above the tire! PO had installed new strut inserts so that doesn't help the height issue either. I probably need some maximum drop like maybe 1.7" to 2" in the front. I was considering the factory M-Tech springs but don't think they will lower it enough so I'll probably go with the H&R's for the self-leveling cars and use the 3mm spring pad. Since the rear springs only lower the car .5 - .7 I'll leave the factory setup on the back as is and maybe adjust it a little lower manually. If the spring rate (ride) feels wrong then I'll add the H&R back springs.

Got the missing front fender trim on order and will see if the paintless dent removal guy can do anything with the little front fender ding, I know you all will notice. ;-) New control arms and sway bar links hopefully will be in on Tuesday. Going to swap the AC over to R134 too just for grins.

Lastly, contemplating installing a reman cat convertor since it appears original and it's got to be less than efficient after 13 years wouldn't you think? New 02 sensor too.

Paul

http://members.aol.com/paul3130/private/525007.jpg

[Elekta]

remember you are driving the tankiest of e34's and you have the least powerful engine....with all that, I would hate to add uncomfortable and feel every bump and concrete strip too with a super lowered suspension.

seriously consider 16's with a tall tire and minimal ride lowering. This car does best on the highway for long trips. your 525 is akin to the merc diesel wagon...dog in the city, angel on the highway

ride and comfort is the main reason I haven't done anything but re-rubber my 15 baskets over the last three years....it really is smooth and comfy with the 3.0v8. I am scared to death to be happy riding pretty with t-stars, but actually hating the ride.


my .02

[brodee]

I read a lot of posts about losing ride quality with larger wheels. I decided to put 18's on both cars anyway. To be honest I don't notice a difference between these and teh 15's that were on them. Granted I'm running stock suspension on both cars, but I don't feel strips, bumps, or anything else more than I did before. I wouldn't hesitate to put 18's on another one much less 17's.

[uscharalph]

I agree. Maybe it the wheels, but it doesn't look quite right IMHO.

[emw525E34]

Agree with Brodee,

I switched from 15s baketweaves to 17 M-parallel replica. Did not match much difference to the ride except for the tire noise when cold. When the tires warmed up, its almost the same ride provided the tire pressures are correct for each wheel size.
The additional traction I got from the better 17inch tires were great. Of course, at the expense of higher cost.

Stock springs and suspension are great on the E34. Only thing I missed was the LAD which the PO removed and put in stock E34 rears.
I wonder if 7-series LAD parts for the rear fits ?. They are easier to source than E34 LAD components. Anyone care to comment on fitment of E32 vs E34 LAD ?.

[gtopaul]

That might change when I put shorter springs on the front. I'll probably switch to 17's down the road once everything else is up to snuff. I like the ride in my 540 w/17's and H&R's.

The auto trans worries me a bit too. When cold it's a little slow going into 3rd and won't shift until about 3200rpm. After the first cold shift it shifts normally most of the time. Also, putting into reverse, it's slow to engage, maybe 2 seconds instead of instantly. I haven't checked the fluid level yet but I assume it's supposed to be at the top of the drain plug hole? Debating whether to have a power flush done. I did both of my Volvo wagons, one with 100k and the other with 130k miles. Both worked fine and shifted better after the flush. A little worried about the Bimmer since it has 180k miles. What do you say, flush it and hope for the best or do it the slow "empty the pan a few times and change the filter" method?

Thanks.

Paul

[Jon K]

That might change when I put shorter springs on the front. I'll probably switch to 17's down the road once everything else is up to snuff. I like the ride in my 540 w/17's and H&R's.

The auto trans worries me a bit too. When cold it's a little slow going into 3rd and won't shift until about 3200rpm. After the first cold shift it shifts normally most of the time. Also, putting into reverse, it's slow to engage, maybe 2 seconds instead of instantly. I haven't checked the fluid level yet but I assume it's supposed to be at the top of the drain plug hole? Debating whether to have a power flush done. I did both of my Volvo wagons, one with 100k and the other with 130k miles. Both worked fine and shifted better after the flush. A little worried about the Bimmer since it has 180k miles. What do you say, flush it and hope for the best or do it the slow "empty the pan a few times and change the filter" method?

Thanks.

Paul


Most will probably recommend you never change the fluid at this point.

[emw525E34]

Hi Paul,

I suggest at 180K miles, you should bite-the-bullet and go ahead and do it. Tranny might be a bit cranky in the 2-3 days after the flush but will be smooth as silk a week later.

But then again, the flush will might fix the problem right away. Hard to tell depending on the state of the fluid/dirt grime in there.

[brodee]

Is it possible to do a full flush at home? I know if I pull the pan and drain it I'm only getting about half of the fluid.

[gtopaul]

The guy I trust is out of town until next Friday so I'll wait until then to take it over. Let's hope for the best. I'm still having extended shift times to 3rd gear but it's sporatic. I hear that BG makes a good cleaner/conditioner to use with the flush routine.

On another note, I got lucky and found the proper H&R spring kit for the Touring w/self-leveling suspension on ebay last night. It cost a little more but it's on the way to me now. :-)

Lastly, it looks like I have a leak in the power steering system with a bad hose. Does anyone have a cheap source for the pressure and return hoses to the steering box?

Thanks.

Paul

[emw525E34]

Hi Paul,

On the PS hose. Might be best to have one custom done by a shop that specialise on hydralic hose repairs. I think they can make a very strong one for a fraction of the price the $tealer wanted. Mine is leaking a drop a week and when it gets to 3 drops, I will go this route and have new ones made.
Shops that does trucks or tractor hoses have very heavy duty ones that will last forever ...