Hylomar Application Instructions

[uscharalph]

Per advice from this forum, I puchased a tube of Hylomar by Permatex for use in updating my cooling system. I am replacing the radiator, water pump, themostat and hoses, as well as the belts. To anyone who has used this product before; Do you use it at all the hose connections? How about at the themostat housing and water pump?

[Tiger]

Only where there is waxed paper gasket.

[LMUNick]

Hylomar is great stuff. I use it a lot, especially when I was working as a tech, but only on paper gaskets. I wouldn't recommend it on hose connections. I am still partial to silicone spray and new clamps. But go for it with the water pump and t-stat housing. Make sure you apply it to both surfaces (metal and gasket).

btw- I work just south of the Marina at LMU. And I have a white e34 too.

Good Luck-


Per advice from this forum, I puchased a tube of Hylomar by Permatex for use in updating my cooling system. I am replacing the radiator, water pump, themostat and hoses, as well as the belts. To anyone who has used this product before; Do you use it at all the hose connections? How about at the themostat housing and water pump?

[uscharalph]

Thanks, maybe I'll see you around. I work near Washington and Lincoln.

[Kalevera]

Ralph...I use a *LITTLE* at hose flanges...too much will mess things up, and even "cook" out over time. The critical element when doing an M20 water pump involves assuring that the engine side flange is clean. I usually remove the excessive grime with a new razor blade, then use a scotch brite pad to get it shiny and smooth.

Also, you should do the timing belt if it hasn't been done recently (they go 60k) while you're in there -- the upper timing cover has to be removed to get to the pump (the only thing left to do to change the belt is 1) remove the lower timing cover, 2) rotate the engine to TDC -- marks at crank and cam, 3) loosen the tensioner/install the new belt & new tensioner/turn the crank 4 complete revolutions to get the belt set and recheck time, 4) set the tensioner).

Two more things: a) loosen up the accessory MOUNTING bolts, not just the adjuster, before attempting to move (that's how the hex nuts and brackets get trashed), b) unless you're flushing the cooling system, get the front of the car up in the air before pulling the water pump; it will keep more of the coolant in the block and lessen the mess.

best, whit

[uscharalph]

Thanks Whit, I apperciate your advice. The timing belt was done 38,000 miles ago. I think I'm going to wait and do it at the end of the year. I didn't want to overdo it on this project, bu as you can see it's almost taken on a life of it's own. In addition to everything above, I might bypass the heater core. Somethings leaking from under the dash into the frame.