Oil pan gasket replacement question-m50

[Anton CH.]

I was going to replace my gasket this weekend but after looking at the benteley I think I am going to wait one more week. My question is:
On the m50 is it possible to remove oil pan without removing the oil pump? I have access to an engine hoist. So if I remove the engine mounts and jack the engine up high enough, can it be done?

[Kalevera]

Remove the fan/viscous and fan shroud, undo the bolts on the motor mounts and lift the motor. You don't need a hoist to do it -- I use a T stand when the car's on a lift.

The pan should come out with no issues. Don't over-RTV the new seal ;) (do a search on oil pan gaskets if you want to read my diatribe on the right vs. wrong way of doing them -- it's easy to mess up and cause big time damage).

best, whit

[Robert K]

Typically, pan gaskets are some type of cork gasket. I have read a number of times that you should never use a silicone type sealer with cork gaskets. If I understand correctly, it is possible for the silicone to actually let the cork gasket "slide" out of position. You are much better of finding some other type of sealer that is specified for use with cork type gaskets. I've always used a gasket "shellac." This type of sealer is much thinner in nature and also has the ability to hold the gasket in place. If I remember correctly, when I put the pan gasket on my 535i pan about 8 months ago, I scraped both surfaces perfectly clean, cleaned the pan surface with alcohol, let it dry, then put the gasket shellac on it. I applied the gasket to it, positioned it, then set the pan on the floor with the gasket facing down. I left it this way for a bit to let the gasket set up. Putting a new gasket on a 3.5 liter engine is a pain, so I didn't want the gasket coming off or moving while I was wrestling the pan back into position. Anyway, I've not had a drip since. One last thing. Snug the pan bolts up gradually and in many steps. I usually try to tighten the four corner bolts up by hand to make certain the pan is in position. Then you'll want to start with the center bolts on each side and work your way to the ends of the pan. Just take lots of time to tighten them gradually and make certain you don't overtighten. If you do overtighten, it will split the gasket right down the middle and you'll eventually end up doing this exercise again. Good luck!

Grace and peace,

Robert K
1991 535i

[Anton CH.]

So did you guys remove the oil pump before removing the pan?

Also, is the sealent necessary? Whenever I done gaskets before I never used them and things were fine.

[Bill R.]

motor up but you do have to unbolt the power steering pump and wire it up ,leaving the hoses connected. And you have to unbolt the dipstick tube and remove it , then you can unbolt the pan , drop it down to the crossmember, then you have to take the oilpickup tube off, its held on with 2 bolts but not the pump... then you should be able to slide the pan out to the rear.







So did you guys remove the oil pump before removing the pan?

Also, is the sealent necessary? Whenever I done gaskets before I never used them and things were fine.

[Hector]

to keep the gasket in place. Otherwise you will have a tough time keeping the gasket on the pan. At least for the m30, as Robert stated, just getting the pan off alone is a pain in the keister. Not having a sealant applied to the pan mating surface will make the job more difficult.

[Bill R.]

four corners of the engine , where the timing cover bolts on and the rear cover bolts on , a dab of it at each point on the block... Three bond is bmw's equivalent to silicone gasket sealer... any good silicone will work fine.






to keep the gasket in place. Otherwise you will have a tough time keeping the gasket on the pan. At least for the m30, as Robert stated, just getting the pan off alone is a pain in the keister. Not having a sealant applied to the pan mating surface will make the job more difficult.

[Hector]

the sensor safe ultra black OEM Hi-Temp RTV silicone purchased from Kragen.

http://www.caswellplating.com/permatex/permgasketmakers.html

I also spread this stuff pretty thin on the oil pan/engine block mating surfaces to promote gasket adhesion. To this day, no leaks and no signs of cork gasket oozing out between the surfaces...

[Anton CH.]

This is a stupid question, but would you adhere the gasket to the block and then install the pan? Or is it the other way around (adhere to oil pan and bolt it up)?

[Hector]

against gravity, and minimize body discomfort from working under car.

[Anton CH.]

Do I need a new gasket for the pick up tube?

[Bill R.]

can suck air which will result in low pressure and oil foaming.






Do I need a new gasket for the pick up tube?

[Anton CH.]

First of all I would like to thank you guys for your tips.
The gasket should be coming in tommorow. Just in time for the weekend. Bill, you mention that it needs to be a good seal,
would you use any sealent there (seems like a bad location for a sealent)?
Benteley mentions nothing of the tourque specification, you wouldn't know it off the top of your head?
Is there any other precautions I should take to make sure no air gets through.

[Bill R.]

tab must point down toward the pickup screen when installed. Torque spec is 6.5 + or - .5 ft.lbs. Not very tight in other words... I hope you have a quarter inch drive torque wrench that reads very low.


First of all I would like to thank you guys for your tips.
The gasket should be coming in tommorow. Just in time for the weekend. Bill, you mention that it needs to be a good seal,
would you use any sealent there (seems like a bad location for a sealent)?
Benteley mentions nothing of the tourque specification, you wouldn't know it off the top of your head?
Is there any other precautions I should take to make sure no air gets through.