Steering column nut strangeness

[howardc64]

Hi:

I'm trying to use the info on this site to tighten the steering column nut. But the more I play with it, the less it seems to make sense according to the info on this site.

- My car had steering play so I pulled everything apart and gave it a 1/2 turn clockwise

- Steering got significantly better and play seems to be gone. But I still felt the shift above the u-joint have slight looseness. So I gave it another couple of turns clockwise. Steering seems to gotten slightly stiffer but the slight u-joint looseness is still present.

- During the test drive, I noticed front end clunking/popping noise when I push accelerator slightly quickly and remove acceleration quickly. Think of it as a rocking motion. Not sure if this noise was there before. Fearing I might have tightened steering too much. I started backing off the nut counter clockwise for several turns. But the noise never went away.

- Now I'm at a point where I can turn the nut clockwise for many turns until about 1/2 inch of thread is showing. And it gets easier and easier to turn to the point where my bare hands can turn it. I opted to stop turning at this point since it didn't match the info on this site. My manual telescoping steering wheel would never stiffing up.

- I turn the nut many turns counter clock wise until it got stiff (about 1/4 inch of thread is showing) And the telescoping steering wheel getting stiff. I then turn clockwise for about 1/2 turn.

- My steering play seems to be gone and steering response doesn't change whether I turn the nut with 1/2 or 1/4 inch thread showing (many many turns) This metal clunking/popping noise would not go away when the nut is anywhere in the range.

In fear that I may have damaged my steering. I thought I ask before continuing. Car is very drivable, steering is reasonable with less play than ebfore. Just this annoying clunk/popping sound that won't go away when I quickly tap accel or decel in S mode driving.

Based on what I read here, I'm not suppose to be able to do so many turns clockwise until 1/2 inch of thread showing and getting easier and easier to turn.

[Kalevera]

A few questions...

1) what is "this site"? the forums, bmwe34.net, ? Just trying to figure out what info was read...

2) Did you check your steering box mounting bolts, as well as the subframe mounting bolts and the sway bar links? Any of those could give you a clunk. The two former items will be "tight" if a socket is stuck on said bolts; usually they need a bit more torque.

The rag joint will have some play in it unless you want to replace the thing. Excessive play is a problem, some movement is normal. Set the shaft nut so that it meets the steering requirements, then work out the noise issue.

Good luck!

best, whit

[howardc64]

A few questions...

1) what is "this site"? the forums, bmwe34.net, ? Just trying to figure out what info was read...

2) Did you check your steering box mounting bolts, as well as the subframe mounting bolts and the sway bar links? Any of those could give you a clunk. The two former items will be "tight" if a socket is stuck on said bolts; usually they need a bit more torque.

The rag joint will have some play in it unless you want to replace the thing. Excessive play is a problem, some movement is normal. Set the shaft nut so that it meets the steering requirements, then work out the noise issue.

Good luck!

best, whit

"this site" is

http://www.bmwe34.net/e34main/trouble/steeringplay.htm
http://www.bimmer.info/forum/showthread.php?t=9347&highlight=steering+column

BY the way, the bmwe34.net link said to hold the nut and turn steering wheel clockwise (if I'm not mistaken, this effectively turn the nut counter clock wise?) and the bimmer.info link said to turn the nut clockwise. These 2 links seems to suggest the opposite turning directions?

How does the steering column nut work? Does it extend the column or just tighten the coupling between what appears to be shafts within shafts?

[Bill R.]

tighten it, or holding it and rotating the steering wheel clockwise, The threaded area that the nut screws onto has slots cut into it and there's a taper on the nut so that the further you screw the nut in , the more it squeezes the splined shaft that goes into it. Since yours has a adjustable steering column I would pick the point that you want to keep the column at and then tighten the nut until the play is gone, and by play i'm referring to the clicking sound that is only between the lower shaft and the upper shaft , if someone holds the lower shaft steady while you lightly turn the steering back and forth a small amount you can feel the click if its play where the nut tightens down. If thats not where the play is then you can check higher up where the rubber coupling is as pictured here or check further down where the universal joint ishttp://www.bimmernut.com/%7Ebillr/images/Steering%20Shaft%20copy.jpg







"this site" is

http://www.bmwe34.net/e34main/trouble/steeringplay.htm
http://www.bimmer.info/forum/showthread.php?t=9347&highlight=steering+column

BY the way, the bmwe34.net link said to hold the nut and turn steering wheel clockwise (if I'm not mistaken, this effectively turn the nut counter clock wise?) and the bimmer.info link said to turn the nut clockwise. These 2 links seems to suggest the opposite turning directions?

How does the steering column nut work? Does it extend the column or just tighten the coupling between what appears to be shafts within shafts?

[632 Regal]

wow! never saw that rubber deal, think I'll check that out next

[howardc64]

tighten it, or holding it and rotating the steering wheel clockwise, The threaded area that the nut screws onto has slots cut into it and there's a taper on the nut so that the further you screw the nut in , the more it squeezes the splined shaft that goes into it. Since yours has a adjustable steering column I would pick the point that you want to keep the column at and then tighten the nut until the play is gone, and by play i'm referring to the clicking sound that is only between the lower shaft and the upper shaft , if someone holds the lower shaft steady while you lightly turn the steering back and forth a small amount you can feel the click if its play where the nut tightens down. If thats not where the play is then you can check higher up where the rubber coupling is as pictured here or check further down where the universal joint ishttp://www.bimmernut.com/%7Ebillr/images/Steering%20Shaft%20copy.jpg

Thanks for the clear directions. Turned the nut counter clockwise until the telescoping steering column felt a little stiff. Steering response is greatly improved.

Now onto the next mystery: the clink noise related to throttle on and off. I'll crawl under the car this weekend and take a look at the drive shaft, transmission mounts, and CV joints.

[Kalevera]

Clink noise?


What kind of clink noise?

There are two rubber bushings in the pedal linkage (actually visible in Bill's picture) that crack/deteriorate and add some play and noise to the pedal, if that's the issue.


best, whit

[howardc64]

Clink noise?


What kind of clink noise?

There are two rubber bushings in the pedal linkage (actually visible in Bill's picture) that crack/deteriorate and add some play and noise to the pedal, if that's the issue.


best, whit

It is definitely not an interior pedal linkage. It sounds like 2 small flat metal face of a large hollow metal object hitting each other flush on. Hard to tell where it is because the only way to reproduce the sound while driving during initial pressing and releasing of the throttle. It is more reproducable when the auto tranny is in S3 mode. What ever that is loose is responding to engine torque changes while in low speed drive.

The sound is deeper than a light clink but not quiet deep as a frontend clunk that I've heard before on other cars (like a loose strut mount on wife's Volvo). I realize these sound descriptions might not be too helpful :-)

[Kalevera]

Check the center bearing and inspect the transmission mounts (I've seen them destroyed and not make any noise, but it can happen).

Could also be a bad U joint on the drive shaft (or an otherwise bad driveshaft), but that's hard to tell without pulling the thing out.


best, whit