Oh oh! Ignition lock beginning to jam!

[pundit]

After reading various threads about jamming ignition barrels I'm thinking it's time to order a new one before I'm left stranded. I see the cost as listed as $114.00 USD on the Realoem website. I would guess the stealer here in Oz will want around $300.00 AUD for a new one... and then there's the cost of reworking the door, trunk and glovebox locks to fit the new key. After spending over $400.00 at the Vet's to have my pooch stitched back together after being mauled by another dog(s) and a pending operation on my left foot, I can feel this is going to be an expensive month! :(

[rickm]

Have you tried lubricating the lock? I find that if I hurrily stop the car and turn/pull out the key it will get stuck. If I take my time it doesn't happen. Reworking the locks shouldn't be more than US$15 per lock if you remove them and take them in.

[Gordie]

When I replaced my ignition barrel, I supplied the dealer with the VIN No. and proof of ownership. He ordered a new barrel keyed the same as the original so I didn't have to rekey any other locks.

[DaCan23]

I just got mine for $71 USD from the Stealer... someone mentioned that BMA can get them for a bit cheaper... I just didnt think they could get me that so I never asked Patrick about it.

[DaCan23]

Heres the link to the thread about doing the procedure discussed last week in case you missed it.

http://www.bimmer.info/forum/showthread.php?t=12370

[rickm]

Great post, I'm going to order a replacement today.

[632 Regal]

take all extra keys and junk off the attached ring, mine was jamming intermittantly and I took everything off. just carry a single key in my pocket, no problem since...the same thing happened to my 2nd wifes pontiac, removed 16 pounds of crap from her keyring and the problem never came back.

[Dash01]

BMA (Patrick) sold me an ignition lock already set for my old key for a price of $58 USD. You need to give him the VIN number, etc. and it takes a few days while he works that via his sources at BMW. This way, you don't have to re-key door locks, etc.

The best removal tool is a heavy duty paper clip, straightened at the first bend, then making a ~20 degree bend about ~1/8" from the tip. Insert that into the ignition lock hole, then turn it: The small bend at the tip acts as a cam to retract the latch, and the ig. lock slides right out. PM me your email address, and I may be able to email you some pics (if I still have them).

[pundit]

Thanks guys. I still expect the local stealer to quote me around $300.00 AUD. ($225.00 USD)
I just need it to last long enough for the replacement to arrive so I can actually remove it.

[pundit]

Just realised I was looking at the price for the steering lock, not the ignition barrel.
The steering lock is listed at $114.00 USD, the barrel & key at $33.18 USD.
That means it should only be around $150.00 AUD here... roll eyes!!

[Dash01]

The only thing likely to go wrong with a steering lock is a little aluminum pin (probably there only to keep the parts together before installation at the BMW factory) can break and jam the works. This little pin can get stuck in a groove inside the steering lock, preventing ignition from rotating.

Again, to avoid re-keying the door and trunk locks, get a pre-set ignition lock cylinder that fits your old key.

[pundit]

Okay I ordered a new ignition barrel & key. Can't get the custom coded version anymore.
Cost is $189.85 AUD ($145.00 USD) from the stealer. If I was prepared to wait I could probably get one from BMA for about $110.00 AUD landed here, but if the lock completely jams in the meantime then I'm screwed. So for about a $70.00 saving it's not really worth taking the chance and waiting another week.

[pundit]

Picked up and installed the ignition barrel this afternoon.
Cost $170.00 AUD around $125.00 USD.

I think I caught it right on it's last gasp. The very last time I reinserted the key into the old barrel (so I could do the paperclip trick to remove it) it took me five solid minutes of jiggling before I could rotate the key the required 60 degrees in order to insert the paperclip into the hole and release the locking pin.

At least I wasn't stranded out the "Back 'o' Burke" with an unstartable car and a dog with more stitches than a patchwork quilt! ;)

[shogun]

Yesterday I was working on my parts car. Father i law asked me to move the car a bit out of the way, as it does not look so nice when a parts car is in the driveway ;)
Attached the steering wheel, tried to switch ignition switch to position 2. Did not work at all.
Removed the steering wheel and found in the steering wheel "hub" a lot of sections where the pins goes in which locks the steering wheel. That pin was slightly 'sticky'. See at the steeering column at the bottom where the steering wheel comes on. There is a little pin shown sticking out. If this is out, steering wheel is locked. If pin is pushed back in, steering wheel is unlocked. Try to check that one. Not always the cylinder is the problem. Maybe a bit of graphite helps to solve the problem.
http://shrubbery.student.utwente.nl/sean750/dash_bulbs/showRemovedClusterAndSteeringWheel.jpg

[pundit]

Yesterday I was working on my parts car. Father i law asked me to move the car a bit out of the way, as it does not look so nice when a parts car is in the driveway ;)
Attached the steering wheel, tried to switch ignition switch to position 2. Did not work at all.
Removed the steering wheel and found in the steering wheel "hub" a lot of sections where the pins goes in which locks the steering wheel. That pin was slightly 'sticky'. See at the steeering column at the bottom where the steering wheel comes on. There is a little pin shown sticking out. If this is out, steering wheel is locked. If pin is pushed back in, steering wheel is unlocked. Try to check that one. Not always the cylinder is the problem. Maybe a bit of graphite helps to solve the problem.

Thanks Shogun but it was definately the barrel.
Even with the old barrel removed the key was still sticking.