Water Pump Replacement 530i M60 Calif Engine

[nhall22]

I am tyring to replace my water pump, but there is a a stainless steel tube that runs right in front of the water pump that is making it hard to remove the pump fron the engine. Does anyone know if I can disconnect this tube. I think I can, because I think it is part of the emissions control system (mine is a California car).

[DaCan23]

I think I know the pipe you are talking about, and its not easy to remove, can losen things a bit to move it a few cm's but I would think the pump could be removed w/o messing with this.

Didnt replace my pump, that was done by an indy many yrs ago, and I doubt they touched the pipe.

What does the bentley say?

[nhall22]

Bentley makes no mention of this tube, thats why I think it is a Calif emission thing. I was able to get the pump out but I had to remove the belt tensioner to do so. I am more worried about getting the pump back on without damaging the gasket, etc. I think even a few cm of room would help. Hopefully its not a sealed system.

[DaCan23]

My car which was originally purchesed in MA also has this, probably the CA, MA, & NY cars have it? Possibly CT cars too.

This bar also makes removing the Crank Sensor a major PITA

[632 Regal]

that tube is for the coolant from the rear of the cylinders to the pump. You DO NOT want to pull that out of the back O ring! as you pull the pump forward try to twist the tube very slightly so it pulls out of the pump. Its a pain but is doable.

If you pull it out of the back you will most likly have a leak that is only fixable by pulling the intake, and when your in there you might as well change the intake gaskets, the pcv plate and involved gaskets...can of worms in other words.

[nhall22]

Jeff,

Thanks for the input, but my original post was about the stainless steel tube that is on the radiator side of the pump.

Your response is pertinent, however. I did in fact already pulled the small aluminum tube free, doh! Unfortunately Bentley doesnt say anything about this and so I had no idea. I am going to take the risk that it wont leak if I stick it back in. I had the following response frome someone esle who did it.

"I had the same thing happen with both coolant crossover tubes when I did my waterpump. I considered removing the intake manifold so I could insure they were reseated properly at the firwall end. Since this involved alot of extra work I tried lightly pushing the tubes back in with a twisting motion so they would reseat in the Orings without damaging them. This worked and I have had no leaks that I know of after 4 years."

[632 Regal]

yes I saw that but since I didnt have one I assumed you were talking about the "do not remove" tube.

I dont have a stainless steel tube on the front of the pump, little bleed hoses and what not but no visable stainless tubes.

Just trying to help...too late with the cross tube though...:D

[l8apex]

This tube most likely houses and shields the heavy duty 4-gauge positive alternator cable. Don't screw with it. You should be able to lift and tilt the water pump forward to clear it.

[nhall22]

I completed the replacement of my water pump and everything is working perfectly! For anyone who mistakenly removed those aluminum tubes at the back of the water pump, here is what I did.

I did not want to R&R my intake manifold, so I removed my radiator and was able to pull the aluminum tubes out from under the intake manifold. I then sanded both ends of the tubes with 800 grit paper and polished them up real nice. I also tapped a rag to the end of a dowel and put silicon lub on the rag. Using this, I reached under the intake manifold and cleaned the o-rings that are seated in he rear (firewall) coolant manifold. I then put silicon lub on the ends of the aluminum tubes and inserted them back into place. From there I went ahead with the normal water pump replacement. I did have to disconnect the stainless steel tube that runs across the front of the water pump - no biggy - I think it is an emissions tube of some sort.

[632 Regal]

could you post a realoem diagram of this tube...got my curiosity here.

[nhall22]

Sorry, what is a realoem diagram. I dont have a digital camera or I would post a picture. I plan to get one and will post when I do.

Another topic: I am very new to this site. You (Jeff Bidoli) seem to be pretty familiar with it. Is there a way to get all the lastest posts for the 5 series to be routed to my email account, or do you just log in all the time a look for the new posts. I have been a member of bmw@E34V8.org for a while and all the posts for that site go directly to my email account. -thanks

[632 Regal]

I dont think this place has that option, I leave the page open all day and when I get a chance I refresh the browser...most people do this. To get emails sent for every 5 posts you will fill up your inbox in quite a hurry somedays when theres a hot topic.

Heres the realoem page, all set up mattering on your manufacture date. I bookmarked it with all my info so that all I have to do is hit "search". For others cars I reenter the pertinent nformation.

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/select.do?vin=&kind=P&series=E34&body=Lim&model=530i&zone=USA&prod=19930600&motor=M60&trans=A&arch=0

[632 Regal]

CORRECTION...
after looking into this there IS the option to subscribe to posts! Its in your user control panel (somewhere)...

[nhall22]

Wow, this Realoem thing is awesome. I cant believe I haven’t heard of it before. Thanks so much. Attached is a schematic of that tube. Its item 5 and the nut I had to remove was item 7. Also I will look at that option for receiving the posts.

[Kalevera]

Wow, this Realoem thing is awesome. I cant believe I haven’t heard of it before. Thanks so much. Attached is a schematic of that tube. Its item 5 and the nut I had to remove was item 7. Also I will look at that option for receiving the posts.
Hahaha. That's an online port of BMW's ETK software.

:)


best, whit