View Full Version : ::.. Clay Bar - Detailing - DO IT!
You know those infomercials that claim their product can do just about everything under the sun, and be best at it? That's what the clay bar is.
During my afternoon stroll through Canadian Tire, I noticed a lone box of Mothers clay bar kit sitting on the shelf. Having never used the stuff before, I thought I'd pick it up and try it... see what the hype was all about.
Now I JUST washed the car yesterday and gave it a full wax...
---
Few hours later, head home and break open the kit.
I've long thought that the 'clay' bar I keep hearing about it something like a bar of soap... something harder and meant to basically sand the finish. Man, was I totally wrong.
A few sprays of the detailing liquid and a few rubs with the clay bar and BLAM! Freak, it's like you bought something on an infomercial and it ACTUALLY WORKED! It's THAT STUNNING! There was absolutely NO comparison of the waxed section (smooth already in itself) and the freshly bar'd section. Freaking just like off the showroom floor!
I only managed to get a small section of the hood/bonnet done and I can't wait to complete the whole car tomorrow.
To YOU who haven't used it before... DO IT! Just DO IT!
Damn easy. Spray some detailing liquid and run the bar across the paint. That's it!
When I say run, I literally mean that. Just do it like you're moving the mouse. Little to no pressure needed!
I've spent more time and effort using waxes and polishes (and cleaners) but never had such an effect.
My two cents.
Oh, and to those still skeptical... I tried to buff and polish with just the detailing spray itself, but no avail. It's definitely the bar doing the work ;)
http://images.amazon.com/images/P/B0002U2V1Y.01-A32R3TUZ3HYUGD._SCMZZZZZZZ_.jpg
On sale $19 CAD at Canadian Tire.
632 Regal
08-17-2005, 10:31 PM
yeah right....
LOL i still am not convinced. Probably cause the look would be ruined on the way out to the main paved road.
I do believe it does work...just a PITA to work with, you however make it sound a lot easier than any other posts.
SharkmanBMW
08-17-2005, 10:36 PM
hmmm, tempting... I am pretty lazy, but if it's that easy...
I have a Canadian tire near me too,
anyone else have the same results???
Seriously...
All you have to do is keep the bar lubed and move it over your paint like you move your computer mouse!
Hey man, if it doesn't work for you, return it!
It's quicker than waxing (though you should afterwards) and it's a damn fine result. Do the baggie test. Put your hand in a plastic bag and run it over your clean paint. Does it catch and feel gritty? Bar it and it'll be like a baby's bottom smooth!
I expect a few of you folks to come back in a few days saying how impressed you are ;)
632 Regal
08-17-2005, 10:41 PM
damn.... now im gonna have to look for it at least to get a few good shots of a clean car before I throw it through another michigan winter. I still have a few parts to replace as maintenance but the claybar sounds easier to think about it.
damn.... now im gonna have to look for it at least to get a few good shots of a clean car before I throw it through another michigan winter. I still have a few parts to replace as maintenance but the claybar sounds easier to think about it.
It's easy. I think I've made my point. If you run your hand over your paint after a wax and it feels like there's still a roughness, even if minor, bar it and laugh at the fool next door using the orbital and sweating away.
pundit
08-17-2005, 11:52 PM
I bought the same kit over here $50.00 AUD!! I'm looking just to buy some detailing clay on it's own. These kits, while they work, are absolutely overpriced to hell!
The clay bar lifts all the embedded crap out of the paintwork. Tree sap, industrial fallout, brake metallics etc. To do the job properly you should...
1. Wash your car first
2. Remove any old wax with a wax remover
3. Wash again
4. Claybar the paintwork
5. Buff the paint with cutting compound
6. Follow up with a swirl remover
7. Wax with a good quality wax
If you're really anal you can include a high grade polish bewteen the swirl removal and waxing steps. This is more beneficial on dark colored paint.
If you drop the claybar in the dirt, throw it away immediately or you'll scratch the crap out of your paintwork.
Anton CH.
08-18-2005, 12:08 AM
Just remember not to overdo with the clay bar. As it removes oxides it also messes with your clear coat. Once every year should be good.
liquidtiger720
08-18-2005, 12:09 AM
Just a FYI. clay does NOT replace waxing.
Pundit has it down...except, if you are going to compound your car, you can skip #2, as compounding will remove all the wax.
If you want a wax to last, go through his steps, and at the end, apply a Sealant Glaze. You will want 3 layers of this, each layer having a curing time of 24-48 hours. After that, choose your favoritn Carnauba wax, and then add 3 layers. THe Sealant Glaze should be good for 6 months, and you can top off your car once a month with a fresh coat of Carnauba wax.
uscharalph
08-18-2005, 12:35 AM
I bought the Mother's Kit about 4 to 5 weeks ago. As soon as I finish the engine maintenance I'm almost finished with, it's Clay Bar Time. I had already used the Mother's Cleaning Wax and it made a huge difference.
Your enthusiasm has me inspired again about the clay bar.
pundit
08-18-2005, 01:38 AM
Just a FYI. clay does NOT replace waxing.
Pundit has it down...except, if you are going to compound your car, you can skip #2, as compounding will remove all the wax.
If you plan on doing an entire job from scratch it's better to remove any residual wax before using the claybar if possible. It will help to increase the life of your claybar. Funnily enough the claybar will invariably remove surface contaminants more effectively than even a light buff will.
Russell
08-18-2005, 04:35 AM
I use a clay bar (Clay Magic) on the lower sections of my car about twice a year to remove embedded debris. ocassionally I use it on the hood roof and deck. After that I usually use a good light polish to remove/fill light scratches and follow up with a good carnuaba wax with no cleaners like s100 or a synthetic wax/sealant like Mothers Reflections or Ezient(sp) Glanz. The surface looks and feels like new with a deep and reflective gloss.
Guelphguy
08-18-2005, 05:39 AM
I have been doing Clay for years, it is a must...my wax ritual consists of a whole Day...
1) wash car - 1 hour
2) Clay the Car - 3 hours
3) Zaino wax system - 4 hours
Clay bar will give you a "Mirror" finish....
MTRIPLE
08-18-2005, 06:59 AM
I have been doing Clay for years, it is a must...my wax ritual consists of a whole Day...
1) wash car - 1 hour
2) Clay the Car - 3 hours
3) Zaino wax system - 4 hours
Clay bar will give you a "Mirror" finish....
Agreed, it's amazing to actually look at the clay after you are done and see all of the dirt that it pulls out of the paint. I do it about twice a year on all my cars, and as mentioned, followup with a good wax.
western99
08-18-2005, 07:20 AM
Claybar, wax stripper, paint sealer, wax and polish... Works like a charm!
western99
08-18-2005, 07:20 AM
Claybar, wax stripper, paint sealer, wax and polish... Works like a charm!
Brian
I have been doing Clay for years, it is a must...my wax ritual consists of a whole Day...
1) wash car - 1 hour
2) Clay the Car - 3 hours
3) Zaino wax system - 4 hours
Clay bar will give you a "Mirror" finish....
If you do the system like you say, I think you'll be scaring people off with a clay that takes 3 hours ;)
Maybe if you've never done it before and really anal about it... doing the windows and trim as well, but certainly not 3 hours now... :p
Jon K
08-18-2005, 07:30 AM
Clay does work, its not a "hype" lol. Its a soft clay that doesnt streak and does a better job at picking toxins up than a wash mit etc. Its more abrasive. When youre done, the area seams so soft when you touch it, it's great. Takes a LONG time tho, and afterwards, you need to wash your car again ;) Then wax again, etc.
Robin-535im
08-18-2005, 08:40 AM
I have been doing Clay for years, it is a must...my wax ritual consists of a whole Day...
1) wash car - 1 hour
2) Clay the Car - 3 hours
3) Zaino wax system - 4 hours
Clay bar will give you a "Mirror" finish....
I'm with you on the Zaino... best I've ever used. The carnuaba wax lasts about 1 day here in NM where it's hot. Zaino will bead up for months. Months I tell you!
I prefer to meter the process differently:
1) wash car - 1 beer
2) Clay the Car - 2 beers + 2 potty breaks
3) Zaino wax system - 2 beers + snack + potty break
TheGeak
08-18-2005, 08:57 AM
Don't you have to be SUPER careful about how you store your bar though? Like if you accidentally drop it, isn't it trash now?
liquidtiger720
08-18-2005, 09:10 AM
Don't you have to be SUPER careful about how you store your bar though? Like if you accidentally drop it, isn't it trash now?
Yes, if you drop it...you wouldnt want to use it again. I keep my old clay bars for my wheels. Treat you wheels the same as your paint, and dust will practically fly off.
MTRIPLE
08-18-2005, 01:00 PM
Don't you have to be SUPER careful about how you store your bar though? Like if you accidentally drop it, isn't it trash now?
Yeah, I keep all of my clay bars, wax applicators, and even my microfiber towels in zip lock baggies...
632 Regal
08-18-2005, 08:00 PM
back in the day we used to use "endust" it would repell dust AND make it shine...lol
it did work great and take about 10 minutes for the whole car.
GS535i
08-18-2005, 08:35 PM
The most effective dewaxer I've used is Dawn detergent: use ~ 1/4 bottle in a bucket of hot water ( very strong), and wash until the paint actually 'squeeks'. There will be no wax/sealer/glaze/ ... left.
Then is the time to claybar: keep the surface just moist enough so the bar glides - you develop a feel for it working, and the surface becomes smooth as glass. Rewash, and do your customary finish.
I've used a preperation called 'Rejex' - a monomer that polymerizes overnight, and was developed for military aircraft. Still perfect a year later, and hardly ever have to wash the car - dirt doesn't seem to adhere.
The most effective dewaxer I've used is Dawn detergent: use ~ 1/4 bottle in a bucket of hot water ( very strong), and wash until the paint actually 'squeeks'. There will be no wax/sealer/glaze/ ... left.
Then is the time to claybar: keep the surface just moist enough so the bar glides - you develop a feel for it working, and the surface becomes smooth as glass. Rewash, and do your customary finish.
I've used a preperation called 'Rejex' - a monomer that polymerizes overnight, and was developed for military aircraft. Still perfect a year later, and hardly ever have to wash the car - dirt doesn't seem to adhere.
Hmmm searching for Rejex... where to get it more readily?
digitaldragon03
08-18-2005, 10:24 PM
ive never used a clay bar so excuse my ignorance, but if you drop the bar, cant you just rip off the chunk that has dirt and keep using the good side?
ive never used a clay bar so excuse my ignorance, but if you drop the bar, cant you just rip off the chunk that has dirt and keep using the good side?
Think Playdoh or plasticine with stickiness x10000. You don't want to risk it.
If this can pick up microparticles embedded in your paint, you have no idea what it has picked up falling on the ground. The mere action of the impact would have raised microparticles up in the air all around it.
digitaldragon03
08-18-2005, 10:37 PM
Might be a better idea to rip the bar in half before you use it. That way, if you drop it, you still have a good side waiting for you in its box.
Gayle
08-18-2005, 10:50 PM
Used the Mother's brand clay kit a few weeks ago. Trying to get hubby's 525 ready to sell. Absolutely loved the smell of the detailing spray that came in the kit. It has a cinnamon smell like dentyne gum. I like stuff that adds to the pleasure of the experience. I am also crazy about the chenille wash mitt cause it feels so good. It is like a teddy bear. You can groan...It is probably a chick thing.
I did find one problem with using the clay (think big long job on that car). I worked 15 minutes and rested 10 over and over. In the breaks, would go to the computer and see what was happening on this board. Found I developed diarrhea of the mouth (worse than usual). Found myself commenting on everything. I finally had to tell myself to shut up. :p
GS535i
08-19-2005, 09:01 PM
Try Barry at Auto-X (http://www.x-autoproducts.com/pages/forumpurchase.htm) .
tdgard
08-20-2005, 08:31 PM
Can't really rip it in half--they are already too small to work with. Just buy a new one.
My process:
wash
Meguiar's step #1
claybar
wash
Meguiar's steps 2+3
Under no circumstances should you place your last full beer on the trunk lid while detailing the lower portion of the car after this process. You are probably too schnokered to go get more after it hits the ground.
TheDuke
08-21-2005, 09:49 AM
Can't really rip it in half--they are already too small to work with. Just buy a new one.
My process:
wash
Meguiar's step #1
claybar
wash
Meguiar's steps 2+3
Under no circumstances should you place your last full beer on the trunk lid while detailing the lower portion of the car after this process. You are probably too schnokered to go get more after it hits the ground.
, and if you drop your beer on the grond pick it up ASAP, don't be affraid to dirnk it. It is still good :p
TheDuke
08-21-2005, 09:50 AM
I think I gonna do clay bar next week, along with few other things.
Jay 535i
08-21-2005, 10:35 AM
Can the clay bar be done too often? What's a good guideline for a northern climate?
Gayle
08-21-2005, 11:56 AM
Spent a week reading roadfly detailing page and autopia before going on the $300 detailing supply binge. Read those sites at your own risk. Make you want everything.
http://forums.roadfly.com/forums/detailing/forum.php?postid=1443882&page=1
http://www.guidetodetailing.com/articles.php?articleId=61
My experience with clay bar is that it selectively pulls the pollution out of the paint. You can really tell the difference on the hood, trunk, and roof where the pollution settles but not on the sides of the car. I didn't find clay bar to be too great at removing oxidation. I needed a polishing product to do that. I rather liked the P21s Paintwork Cleaner for removing oxidation by hand. The Klasse All in One was good with the Porter Cable but harder to use by hand.
This is kind of a gross comparison but I think of the clay bar as being kind of it like one of those skin care products that pulls out blackheads. I think of the polishing compound as like the skin care products that removes the dead layer of cells living on the surface of your skin that makes it look dull. Hope this chick speak makes sense to you guys. I would not be afraid to use it clay bar often but I could tell the polishing compound thinned the clear coat on the edge of that ridge on the hood. Clay bar sucks it out and polishing compounds sand it off.
I would think the schedule for using clay bar would depend on how polluted the air is where you live. I would also think that if you detailed the car thoroughly and then kept it waxed that it would not oxidize much so less need for the abrasive products that steal your paint.
I figure when I work my way through detailing the other three vehicles and use all the different products for their intended purpose, I will do a product review and post. Rate them for ease of use, effectiveness, and a "zen" rating that encompases smell, feel, and other intangibles.
tdgard
08-21-2005, 12:34 PM
, and if you drop your beer on the grond pick it up ASAP, don't be affraid to dirnk it. It is still good :p
Problem is the glass shards get in your mouth as you lap it off the ground.
Interesting comments. I like the Zen thing. One of my favorite products is the Meguiars W9000 tan foam pad. It's so soft you think it's going to fly apart, but it doesn't. It's really interesting feeling when you saturate it with water and detergent to get the crud out of it. It's like a big cylindrical chamois. Very strange stuff in that pad.
One other thing -- did you happen to run across a source for the clay by itself? I bought one of those Mothers kits, but $15 USD is a little high in my opinion for a single-use wad of clay, especially if you happen to be clumsy like I am and will probably drop it and ruin it, thus requiring another $15 expense to finish the finish.
You don't suppose modeling clay would work, do you? Stuff is cheap and readily available at places like Wally World.
Jay 535i
08-21-2005, 03:53 PM
One other thing -- did you happen to run across a source for the clay by itself? I bought one of those Mothers kits, but $15 USD is a little high in my opinion for a single-use wad of clay, especially if you happen to be clumsy like I am and will probably drop it and ruin it, thus requiring another $15 expense to finish the finish.
You don't suppose modeling clay would work, do you? Stuff is cheap and readily available at places like Wally World.
The "clay bar" isn't actually clay. So, no.
You can reuse the clay bar if you store it properly, in an airtight container.
Scott C
08-21-2005, 04:23 PM
Problem is the glass shards get in your mouth as you lap it off the ground.
Now the manly man just chews a little extra... :)
Bill R.
08-21-2005, 04:27 PM
look pretty good, I may actually try it and i am the worlds worst for not waxing my cars.... Link here (http://www.corrosionx.com/rejex.html)
I'm curious what it does for brake dust on the wheels.
Hmmm searching for Rejex... where to get it more readily?
Gayle
08-21-2005, 04:34 PM
The directions on the mothers package says the clay is good for 3 or 4 uses. I didn't think the price was bad since it comes with detailing spray and a container of carnauba wax. What helped me not drop it was setting a soap dish from the house on a stool next to the car. Every time I set it down, I put it in that. It kept me from spacing out and putting it on the garage floor.
http://store.yahoo.com/classic-motoring/claybars.html
http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/ksearch/pel_search.cgi?please_wait=N&forumid=&threadid=&command=DWsearch&description=clay&FILTER_CARE=ON&FILTER_TECH=ON&FILTER_SUPP=ON&FILTER_ACCE=ON&FILTER_STUF=ON&FILTER_PERF=ON&FILTER_MISC=ON&FILTER_GADG=ON&FILTER_TOOL=ON&FILTER_ABMW=ON&FILTER_BE21=ON&FILTER_BE30=ON&FILTER_BE36=ON&FILTER_BE46=ON&FILTER_BE12=ON&FILTER_BE28=ON&FILTER_BE34=ON&FILTER_BE39=ON&FILTER_BE7S=ON&FILTER_BEZ3=ON&FILTER_BE68=ON&FILTER_BE02=ON&FILTER_BEMI=ON&FILTER_BEX5=ON&FILTER_BMWM=ON
GS535i
08-21-2005, 06:13 PM
I've had my Mother's clay bar in use for 3 years - store in a zip-lok bag. It's life depends upon how much crap it picks up: the cleaner the paint to start, the longer it lasts.
The 'clay' can act as a very fine abrasive in addition to being able to extracr nasties stuck onto/into the paint or clear coat: the Detailers can get the stuff in several grades eg - the green is a more agressive clay, etc.
My best success was with an imported P-car - the paint was perfect, except for impedded 'fly ash' from a coal fired power plant. These diamond hard needle like crystals embed into the upper surfaces. Normally, an expensive power buffing is required, at the loss of some clear coat depth. The Mother's bar restored it to a glass smooth finish in a couple of hours.
dternst
08-25-2005, 05:48 PM
Checkout a new detailing website www.detailersclub.com. Alot of your questions, concerns, and misconceptions about detailing and detailing supplies can be answered. Why pay someone else to do what you can do yourself?
digitaldragon03
08-26-2005, 10:12 PM
Ok, you guys have convinced me, i went out and bought the mothers clay bar kit, mothers sealer and glaze, and the mothers wax. Ill tell you how it all works out.
MTechnik540i
08-26-2005, 10:27 PM
You know those infomercials that claim their product can do just about everything under the sun, and be best at it? That's what the clay bar is.
During my afternoon stroll through Canadian Tire, I noticed a lone box of Mothers clay bar kit sitting on the shelf. Having never used the stuff before, I thought I'd pick it up and try it... see what the hype was all about.
Now I JUST washed the car yesterday and gave it a full wax...
---
Few hours later, head home and break open the kit.
I've long thought that the 'clay' bar I keep hearing about it something like a bar of soap... something harder and meant to basically sand the finish. Man, was I totally wrong.
A few sprays of the detailing liquid and a few rubs with the clay bar and BLAM! Freak, it's like you bought something on an infomercial and it ACTUALLY WORKED! It's THAT STUNNING! There was absolutely NO comparison of the waxed section (smooth already in itself) and the freshly bar'd section. Freaking just like off the showroom floor!
I only managed to get a small section of the hood/bonnet done and I can't wait to complete the whole car tomorrow.
To YOU who haven't used it before... DO IT! Just DO IT!
Damn easy. Spray some detailing liquid and run the bar across the paint. That's it!
When I say run, I literally mean that. Just do it like you're moving the mouse. Little to no pressure needed!
I've spent more time and effort using waxes and polishes (and cleaners) but never had such an effect.
My two cents.
Oh, and to those still skeptical... I tried to buff and polish with just the detailing spray itself, but no avail. It's definitely the bar doing the work ;)
http://images.amazon.com/images/P/B0002U2V1Y.01-A32R3TUZ3HYUGD._SCMZZZZZZZ_.jpg
On sale $19 CAD at Canadian Tire.
Can't wait 'til he find out the magic of a PC orbital buffer. ;)
Clay bar is only the half of it.
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