Few snags with my German Mistress...

[White535Mtl]

I wanted to post a few problems up at the same time. Maybe you guys could help me.

1- When driving under medium, heavy rain, the car gets the "Check Engine" light on and starts acting really weird. If under heavy rain, the car would just completely start sputtering and then stall. Medium rain, it would sputter for a day or two all throughout the band. I checked the the code and it read 1211 - for the DME control unit.

2- My reverse light does not come on when I reverse it, which makes it sometimes dangerous driving. Checked the fuse box; everything seems normal.

3- Sometimes when turning the steering wheel, the car would start humming. Probably a belt slipping or something.

4- And lastly, I can't pull up more than 2 windows at a time. If I try, then one would stop going up. Is this normal?

Thanks in advance for the help.
Fred

[uscharalph]

I wanted to post a few problems up at the same time. Maybe you guys could help me.

1- When driving under medium, heavy rain, the car gets the "Check Engine" light on and starts acting really weird. If under heavy rain, the car would just completely start sputtering and then stall. Medium rain, it would sputter for a day or two all throughout the band. I checked the the code and it read 1211 - for the DME control unit.

2- My reverse light does not come on when I reverse it, which makes it sometimes dangerous driving. Checked the fuse box; everything seems normal.

3- Sometimes when turning the steering wheel, the car would start humming. Probably a belt slipping or something.

4- And lastly, I can't pull up more than 2 windows at a time. If I try, then one would stop going up. Is this normal?

Thanks in advance for the help.
Fred
#2 - Search something like "Trunk Hinge Wire" and you might find your culprit. The wires on the trunk hinge are prone to problems.

#4 - Are you talking about the one-touch window function?

[White535Mtl]

#2 - Search something like "Trunk Hinge Wire" and you might find your culprit. The wires on the trunk hinge are prone to problems.

#4 - Are you talking about the one-touch window function?

#2= Thanks I'll look that up right away

#4 - No; Whenever the unit gets more than two commands at the same time, one has to stop. Example: I would pull up the two front windows from the front console. If someone would happen to be in the back at the same time and try to pull up their back window, either the front passenger or driver window would stop going up, while I'd have my finger on it

[dacoyote]

#1 Does it do it when it's just sitting there, at 25mph? freeway speeds, you could have something exposed and the water is getting on it.

#4 is per design, it sucks.. but I think every e34 does it.

-Charles

[wengenstein]

#2 - you checked the fuse(s) but what about the bulbs? :)

#3 - you need power steering fluid

#4 - like they said, it sucks...

Dennis

[Kalevera]

Check the backup switch in the center console.

Window motors have a huge current draw on the car's electrical system. In fact, the battery can be drained on an E34 with a bunch of window operations sans the engine running, to the point where it won't start (yes, I've done it). The power requirement of four simultaneous window lifts is why <some> E30/4 cars have breaker switches right next to the window switches. The theory is that if you allow the user to move four windows at once, the fuse (30a) may blow. Since the probability of it happening is so high, the breaker is there to save the fuse. By the E34, they designed the rule into the GM and/or RM (I'm not sure which -- probably the GM, as the RM has a relay for each window's down operation, while two do the closing). By the E36, they'd come up with a better way to do it entirely.

For their day, the electrics were quite well designed. BMW was the first company to implement integrated connectors into an automobile. Without the networking of modules in the car, the wiring harness would be exponentially larger.

Oh, and on the power steering issue -- what color is the (probably ATF) fluid in the reservoir? Brown? Time to change it. If you do change it and the refill, after sufficient bleeding of the system, only makes it noiser: it's time to replace the pump. The pump should strain at steering lock and make some noise, and it's silly to leave the wheel there for very long periods of time. A loose v belt would snap after slipping for a while.

best, whit

[genphreak]

with the reverse lights, if your car has a towbar (and harness) that could be part of the problem. The factory one has a relay box beside the amp in the driver's (US car) quarter panel... if not, chk for;

12V at the lights, the relay outputs (perhaps the LKM (I think it controls every light) and then at the loom, but you'll find the problem is probably in a wear zone on the the loom where it is tied to the boot hinge - a lot of people talk about problems here. If not, it could be in something under the back seat (if you have to go that far) there are relays and fuses there too- but they don't usually need user assistance :) GP

[White535Mtl]

Check the backup switch in the center console.

Window motors have a huge current draw on the car's electrical system. In fact, the battery can be drained on an E34 with a bunch of window operations sans the engine running, to the point where it won't start (yes, I've done it). The power requirement of four simultaneous window lifts is why <some> E30/4 cars have breaker switches right next to the window switches. The theory is that if you allow the user to move four windows at once, the fuse (30a) may blow. Since the probability of it happening is so high, the breaker is there to save the fuse. By the E34, they designed the rule into the GM and/or RM (I'm not sure which -- probably the GM, as the RM has a relay for each window's down operation, while two do the closing). By the E36, they'd come up with a better way to do it entirely.

For their day, the electrics were quite well designed. BMW was the first company to implement integrated connectors into an automobile. Without the networking of modules in the car, the wiring harness would be exponentially larger.

Oh, and on the power steering issue -- what color is the (probably ATF) fluid in the reservoir? Brown? Time to change it. If you do change it and the refill, after sufficient bleeding of the system, only makes it noiser: it's time to replace the pump. The pump should strain at steering lock and make some noise, and it's silly to leave the wheel there for very long periods of time. A loose v belt would snap after slipping for a while.

best, whit

regarding the window issue, is there anything that can be done? Or that's just the way they were made and better left this way?

And thanks for the tip for the steering fluid. I'll read it up on the Bentley and perform the change when I get the time. The fluid is brown :(

[genphreak]

regarding the window issue, is there anything that can be done? Or that's just the way they were made and better left this way?

And thanks for the tip for the steering fluid. I'll read it up on the Bentley and perform the change when I get the time. The fluid is brown :(No you shouldn't go drawing that much current from the battery ever. I've seen lesser cars have all sorts of problems w fuses, burnt switches, flat batteries and so on from users expecting the windows to be powered by fusion engines...

I use one at a time usually, 2 perhaps when the engine is running- this saves your battery from a bad drain once the car is shut-down. :) GP

[White535Mtl]

No you shouldn't go drawing that much current from the battery ever. I've seen lesser cars have all sorts of problems w fuses, burnt switches, flat batteries and so on from users expecting the windows to be powered by fusion engines...

I use one at a time usually, 2 perhaps when the engine is running- this saves your battery from a bad drain once the car is shut-down. :) GP

Alright :)
Thanks for the tip.

[Kalevera]

regarding the window issue, is there anything that can be done? Or that's just the way they were made and better left this way?

And thanks for the tip for the steering fluid. I'll read it up on the Bentley and perform the change when I get the time. The fluid is brown :(
Nope, there's nothing to be done about it without rewiring things. The one thing that can be done (which made my life easier) is to swap in a GM from a later E32 or E34. This will add one touch down to all windows (versus just the driver's), which is convenient.

I haven't read Bentley's procedure in a while, but FWIW (quoted from a previous post):


If you end up draining the PS fluid, be sure to replace it with the correct stuff. Your car should use ATF.

Now, draining it is rather straight forward -- open the banjo bolt on the line that runs from the reservoir to the pump (at the pump). It won't all come out the first time around. Button it up and fill the reservoir with new fluid. Start the car and bleed the system (rotate steering wheel lock to lock) for a few minutes. It doesn't have to stop chattering, but the fluid in the reservoir should probably be free of bubbles by the time you stop. Drain it again and then fill, bleed it until the system doesn't chatter anymore. If it won't stop chattering and fluid was brown, the seals in the system are probably gone and adding the new fluid killed it (just the risk you take -- much the way a fluid flush can kill an abused AT).



Also, even with a filled reservoir, the system will likely eat all of the fluid and want more on the refills. Just watch it after the car is started. Set the final level/top it off after the bubbles are reasonably gone. If it continues chattering and bubbling on the initial refill (which it probably will), shut off the engine and let it sit for a few minutes. Start it up again and continue bleeding it, then drain it out for the final fill.

EDIT: oh, and the other thing is, when changing the fluid and draining from the banjo bolt, it's a good idea to provision for new crush washers. The fitting will leak without them.

best, whit

[White535Mtl]

Nope, there's nothing to be done about it without rewiring things. The one thing that can be done (which made my life easier) is to swap in a GM from a later E32 or E34. This will add one touch down to all windows (versus just the driver's), which is convenient.

I haven't read Bentley's procedure in a while, but FWIW (quoted from a previous post):


If you end up draining the PS fluid, be sure to replace it with the correct stuff. Your car should use ATF.

Now, draining it is rather straight forward -- open the banjo bolt on the line that runs from the reservoir to the pump (at the pump). It won't all come out the first time around. Button it up and fill the reservoir with new fluid. Start the car and bleed the system (rotate steering wheel lock to lock) for a few minutes. It doesn't have to stop chattering, but the fluid in the reservoir should probably be free of bubbles by the time you stop. Drain it again and then fill, bleed it until the system doesn't chatter anymore. If it won't stop chattering and fluid was brown, the seals in the system are probably gone and adding the new fluid killed it (just the risk you take -- much the way a fluid flush can kill an abused AT).



Also, even with a filled reservoir, the system will likely eat all of the fluid and want more on the refills. Just watch it after the car is started. Set the final level/top it off after the bubbles are reasonably gone. If it continues chattering and bubbling on the initial refill (which it probably will), shut off the engine and let it sit for a few minutes. Start it up again and continue bleeding it, then drain it out for the final fill.

EDIT: oh, and the other thing is, when changing the fluid and draining from the banjo bolt, it's a good idea to provision for new crush washers. The fitting will leak without them.

best, whit

Wow. Thanks for the amazing write-up.
I'll perform this task as soon as tomorrow. Just a noobieish question; what's ATF and what's the difference between regular PS fluid?

[Kalevera]

Wow. Thanks for the amazing write-up.
I'll perform this task as soon as tomorrow. Just a noobieish question; what's ATF and what's the difference between regular PS fluid?
There are no "noob" questions; please don't be ashamed to ask them.

It'll say on the reservoir what fluid it requires. V8 cars and cars with self leveling use CHF 7.1 or 11 S hydraulic fluid. ATF is Automatic Transmission Fluid and has a bit higher viscosity. This means that the bubbles will be smaller (looks like froth or milkshake, not really bubbles).

Frankly, I can't tell you why these cars don't use regular PS fluid, but I'll venture a guess. That is: in comparison to other power steering systems, our PS pumps have a higher pressure output. Extra pressure and different operating characteristics merit the use of a fluid with certain properties. This isn't necessarily a rack vs. recirculating ball issue: all of the E30/E36 series cars that I've done such work on use ATF as well.

Perhaps Bill or Winfred....someone with more experience and knowledge than me...would have the proper answer to the question.

best, whit

[Paul in NZ]

with the auto close function you will note that only one window closes at a time and then the sunroof.....or is it the other way around to save that massiv ecurrent draw,they are powerful motors ....designed to close the windows at full speed on the autobahn........

[Mas (UK)]

(2- My reverse light does not come on when I reverse it, which makes it sometimes dangerous driving. Checked the fuse box; everything seems normal.)

Having checked your bulbs and fuse are ok and your general wiring looks good, the next thing to do would be to check your reverse light switch. It is often on the right side of your transmission housing kinda midway up the side (but could also be on the left on some tranny models). It looks like a big bolt with an electrical cable clipped to it. You could remove it and try to clean it up and see if your lights then start to work, or if it's dead it may just need replacing.

Good luck,

Mas

[632 Regal]

my car requires ch 11

should say on the cap as mentioned, you really want to avoid mixing different fluids at all costs.

[MaloventEvil]

#1 Does it do it when it's just sitting there, at 25mph? freeway speeds, you could have something exposed and the water is getting on it.

#4 is per design, it sucks.. but I think every e34 does it.

-Charles
the 95 540 doesnt :D

[White535Mtl]

EDIT: oh, and the other thing is, when changing the fluid and draining from the banjo bolt, it's a good idea to provision for new crush washers. The fitting will leak without them.

best, whit

I've omitted that part and was about to post another thread about this. Indeed there is a small leak.
Is there a BMW-specific part number for that? Or is it simply a universal item?

[Kalevera]

I've omitted that part and was about to post another thread about this. Indeed there is a small leak.
Is there a BMW-specific part number for that? Or is it simply a universal item?
There may be a specific part number (I'm not sure). We have a station at the shop that is filled with every imaginable size and type of crush washer, fuse, hose clamp, zip tie, and O ring. My best guess is to either go through ETK (http://www.realoem.com) and see if there's a part number, or simply take one of the old washers to a hardware store and see if they have them for a few cents.

best, whit