Bad noise from blower motor

[PatrickPGH]

Hey all,

This weekend the blower motor in my car started to emit a "bad" noise. It starts when I turn the control and does not change depending on speed (1,2,3,4).

It sounds like a very loud, deep, whirring, it starts off quietly then quickly plateaus.

Air is still coming from the vents and changes with the speed settings as usual, except now there is a very loud noise.

Thanks,

Pat

95 530ia

[Jeff N.]

Sounds like the fan motor bearings or fan cage bearings are shot. You'll likely need to swap in a new fan unit. Not too expensive part via the junkyard but then you do get a used one. Not sure how much a new one costs (anyone?).

On the 6 cylinder, you can do the job yourself but it's a little bit of a back breaker as you have to reach a lot to the middle of the car. Fan unit itself comes out via the access panel on the rear center of the firewall. Not sure how much room (or lack there of) you have with the V8.

Jeff

[PatrickPGH]

BMA only lists one part number, I'm therefore assuming that the blower motor is common to all E34s, can anyone confirm this?

Thanks,

Pat

[Unregistered]

Sounds like the fan motor bearings or fan cage bearings are shot. You'll likely need to swap in a new fan unit. Not too expensive part via the junkyard but then you do get a used one. Not sure how much a new one costs (anyone?).

On the 6 cylinder, you can do the job yourself but it's a little bit of a back breaker as you have to reach a lot to the middle of the car. Fan unit itself comes out via the access panel on the rear center of the firewall. Not sure how much room (or lack there of) you have with the V8.

Jeff

I ran my fan for a bit with a shot "sword" where only top speed was usable "4" and it appears to have destroyed my fan (no fan speeds work now). I have removed the sword and cleaned the hi-speed relay and verified that it is clicking...alas, no fan. I'm guessing I burned my fan out, can this be replaced in the back yard? If it involves removing the entire dash, it's probably not something I want to take on...but if it's just removing the wipers and wiper trans, I have no problem.

--
Hot in Texas

[George M]

just because your relay is clicking doesn't mean your sword MOSFET's are OK. You should check the output from your sword to the blower motor before you assume it is bad. The blower motor with attached squirrel cage is accessed through a panel in the engine bay behind the expansion tank that must be removed from the firewall. Not a fun job but doable by a home mechanic....a 2 out of 5 beer job.
HTH,
George

[RobH]

just because your relay is clicking doesn't mean your sword MOSFET's are OK. You should check the output from your sword to the blower motor before you assume it is bad. The blower motor with attached squirrel cage is accessed through a panel in the engine bay behind the expansion tank that must be removed from the firewall. Not a fun job but doable by a home mechanic....a 2 out of 5 beer job.
HTH,
George

Thanks George! I think it probably makes sense to replace the blower as well as it's probably what caused the sword to fail, correct? My build date is 11/88 so about 15 years seams a pretty good lifetime on it. It's also been making some squealing that I'm attributing to failing bearings.

[RobH]

George,

I was just looking at the firewall for the work I'm going to be doing tomorrow. It seems that the bolts that hold this access panel /appear/ to have their heads on the other side. (interior). What leads me to believe this is that I see what appears to be a hexagonal black nut on the engine compartment side and a bottom (away from threads) of a bolt inside of it. It also appears that these black nuts that I have easy access to are coated or are part of the firewall panel itself.

Am I off base or am I going to have to remove the wipers and the like to get to the bolt heads? I'd hate to start turning one of the black nuts in engine compartment and have it snap off causing unknown issues with the blower motor replacement.

Thanks in advance,
Rob