FCP groton suspension after 1 year

[Lennyz525i]

I bought lower/upper control arms, sway bar links and tie rod ends from FCP exactly one year ago. Didn't have much to spend at the time so I figured I'd give FCP a shot. I checked how they are holding up this weekend:

Left control arm balljoint boot has ruptured.
I noticed the thrust arm bushings were showing signs of cracking on the outer edges. They might not have been torqued right though.

I guess I better start saving up for a set of lems
:(

[MBXB]

How many miles did you put on the suspension?

[632 Regal]

good feedback! This is what we need to know to acuratly describe the longevity.

I bought lower/upper control arms, sway bar links and tie rod ends from FCP exactly one year ago. Didn't have much to spend at the time so I figured I'd give FCP a shot. I checked how they are holding up this weekend:

Left control arm balljoint boot has ruptured.
I noticed the thrust arm bushings were showing signs of cracking on the outer edges. They might not have been torqued right though.

I guess I better start saving up for a set of lems
:(

[ryan roopnarine]

$239 shipped for 2 upper control arms, 2 lower control arms, (both with 750 bushings) 2 sway bar links, 2 tierods, and a steering link is asking a lot. bmp sells balljoint boots, i have some here, they cost me $14ish for 4. ill probably end up buying the kit and replacing the boots if they break because i drive a lot of mi/year, and even the lemforder stuff will die for me. $239 buys you a lot of stuff.....

[Lennyz525i]

I'll check how many miles I've driven with the fcp arms when I get home. I do drive the car hard and california roads are rough...

[uscharalph]

I bought lower/upper control arms, sway bar links and tie rod ends from FCP exactly one year ago. Didn't have much to spend at the time so I figured I'd give FCP a shot. I checked how they are holding up this weekend:

Left control arm balljoint boot has ruptured.
I noticed the thrust arm bushings were showing signs of cracking on the outer edges. They might not have been torqued right though.

I guess I better start saving up for a set of lems
:(
Are you experiencing a rusting problem with the parts as has been mentioned on this forum?

[Paul in NZ]

any rusting will only be surface corrosion,i dont think they would ever fail through corrosion....would they????

[genphreak]

Are you experiencing a rusting problem with the parts as has been mentioned on this forum?The Lemforders are hardly well painted either- No matter which ones one buys, if you care how they look later on, paint them carefully.

I've been to these kind of factories (TRW) and they go from the furnace to the paintbooth and they only get a light spray of gloss, no undercoat or anything. I think I'd rub them back a tad and do a few coats if I could afford the time. :) Nick

[avitt2]

I've had a full set of TRW on my 540 for just over a year (about 12K miles) as well. I was just under the car last weekend, and I inspected everything. So far, the balljoint boots are intact (this seems to be the major problem with TRW stuff) and the thrust arm bushings show no visible wear. More importantly, my heavy V8 is still driving rock solid.

If they were installed correctly, there is no reason that the thrust arm bushings should not last as long as Lemforders...the bushings are 750i OEM, exactly the same as the Lems that came off my car (they lasted 40K miles).

[liquidtiger720]

Im going with the oem alluminum ones next time. :)

[Lennyz525i]

I'm suspicious my thrust arm bushings hadn't been torqued right, I had to take it to a shop after I ran into some problems.

The arms have 7K miles on them. Back when I bought them, I believe FCP sold control arms manufactured by karlyn industries. They're not rusting though/

[avitt2]

Im going with the oem alluminum ones next time. :)

I did use the aluminum TRW lower arms. (I heard that their steel versions don't fit my car). I'd buy them again, as they don't fail as often anyway.

[Kalevera]

I did use the aluminum TRW lower arms. (I heard that their steel versions don't fit my car). I'd buy them again, as they don't fail as often anyway.
How do they not fail as often?

The bushings themselves are one thing, the ball joint is what I am critical of on anything sold by FCP....I just don't think they're as good.


best, whit

[infinity5]

The bushings themselves are one thing, the ball joint is what I am critical of on anything sold by FCP....I just don't think they're as good.

So long as the boots stay intact, will the ball joints even wear more than a negligible ammount? I know half my OE boots were shot and half were intact and none of the ball joints had any play I could feel using my hands.

Both arms are steel, correct (FCP/Lem)? and the actual ball and socket in the ball joints are both steel? Then it seems like the only way FCP ball joints could wear faster (assuming the boot stays intact) is if they used poor quality steel or poor quality grease. Does that sound right? I don't know much about the constuction of the ball joints, so this is all me guessing.

Becuase if i'm right, then you could do objective tests on the different brands if you had equipment capable of analyzing grease and steel.

[genphreak]

So long as the boots stay intact, will the ball joints even wear more than a negligible ammount? I know half my OE boots were shot and half were intact and none of the ball joints had any play I could feel using my hands.

Both arms are steel, correct (FCP/Lem)? and the actual ball and socket in the ball joints are both steel? Then it seems like the only way FCP ball joints could wear faster (assuming the boot stays intact) is if they used poor quality steel or poor quality grease. Does that sound right? I don't know much about the constuction of the ball joints, so this is all me guessing.

Becuase if i'm right, then you could do objective tests on the different brands if you had equipment capable of analyzing grease and steel.I just don't get this Lem v TRW v HT v Meyle argument at all. In developed manufacturing zones, everyone uses the same kind of carbon steels in these products.

Its XX% carbon and that's about it- quality is very stable. Crap steel comes from dodgey sources- such as old smelters in Asia or the Eastern block (traditionally) which is why Alfas and Fiats rust faster than any other car on the planet... impurities in the Russian steel Fiat sources cause it to rust no matter how well it is coated and (may) give it weaknesses. I don't think any company in Germany could bring itself to use steel from the East (am I wrong here?) and TRW simply wouldn't bother as they are manufacturing (these parts) mainly in the USA (or am I wrong here too?).

Rubber boots might be crap on cheap arms, grease might be too (I'd e surprised). Lem boots perish too... (and mechanics also break them putting them on).

I hear those in the know saying Lems last longer, but the only possible weak points I see are the boots and the bushes. I can't see it worthwhile buying Lems, but I'd like to see them side by side. Now there is a challenge to someone who can get them together. Nice big pics so we can examine them closely, as well as a very accurate weight comparison... ;)

PS. Sorry to open up this can of worms again, but I stayed tight-lipped on the last few threads covering this issue and just couldn't stop myself this time.

[avitt2]

I just don't get this Lem v TRW v HT v Meyle argument at all. In developed manufacturing zones, everyone uses the same kind of carbon steels in these products.

Its XX% carbon and that's about it- quality is very stable. Crap steel comes from dodgey sources- such as old smelters in Asia or the Eastern block (traditionally) which is why Alfas and Fiats rust faster than any other car on the planet... impurities in the Russian steel Fiat sources cause it to rust no matter how well it is coated and (may) give it weaknesses. I don't think any company in Germany could bring itself to use steel from the East (am I wrong here?) and TRW simply wouldn't bother as they are manufacturing (these parts) mainly in the USA (or am I wrong here too?).

Rubber boots might be crap on cheap arms, grease might be too (I'd e surprised). Lem boots perish too... (and mechanics also break them putting them on).

I hear those in the know saying Lems last longer, but the only possible weak points I see are the boots and the bushes. I can't see it worthwhile buying Lems, but I'd like to see them side by side. Now there is a challenge to someone who can get them together. Nice big pics so we can examine them closely, as well as a very accurate weight comparison... ;)

PS. Sorry to open up this can of worms again, but I stayed tight-lipped on the last few threads covering this issue and just couldn't stop myself this time.

I've examined Lemforder and TRW side by side (sorry I don't have any pics) and they're identical, with the exception of the ball joint boots. Uppers, lowers, tie-rods, all the same shape and weight. The 750 bushings were the same color, and had the same numbers.

My last set of Lems only lasted 40K miles. I've already got 1/4 of that on my TRW's. I don't figure I'll own the car long enough to find out which will live longer. In the meantime, I saved enough money to buy a rebuilt AC compressor.

I recommend FCP Groton stuff, with a urethane boot upgrade...Everyone can make their own choices.

[genphreak]

I suspected as much... thanks avitt2- that's good input! :) Nick