Door panel repair - any final hints or posts?

[Jeff N.]

Saw Dave's post here (http://www.bimmer.info/forum/showthread.php?postid=56640#poststop) on regluing the door panels.

Any other good posts or hints?

My rear panels are coming undone both in the middle and around the edges near the rubber gaskets.

Spray contact glue is looking very appealing. Anyone try it?

[uscharalph]

Saw Dave's post here (http://www.bimmer.info/forum/showthread.php?postid=56640#poststop) on regluing the door panels.

Any other good posts or hints?

My rear panels are coming undone both in the middle and around the edges near the rubber gaskets.

Spray contact glue is looking very appealing. Anyone try it?
Gorilla Glue!

[Jeff N.]

...that's a problem on the curved surfaces. A contact cement seems more workable.

[Jeff N.]

1 minute set, temp up to 160, spray can, 3m.

3m Spray 90 (http://tinyurl.com/bss65)

[uscharalph]

...that's a problem on the curved surfaces. A contact cement seems more workable.
Won't hold nearly as well.

[Kalevera]

Jeff -- I ran into this problem with stretched vinyl the first time around. Here's what NOT to use:

Goop
Any typical super glue

You're on the money -- no way to clamp it. Actually, I did clamp the edges (the vinyl's peeling back around the edge of the panel, where it's supposed to fit between the door frame and the fiberboard panel) with no success.

My rear panels are gone after ~ 9 months of use. I guess I'll do it again, soon.

best, whit

[Jeff N.]

I'm wondering if the trick isn't along these lines:

1) peel the loose stuff back can carefully clean off the old glue on the vinyl and the fiberboard

2) spray in an industrial strength contact cement

3) with a heatgun, warm up the vinyl

4) carefully press the vinyl back into the grooves

Prep work, heat and the right glue I think are the keys. How far did you take your project along these lines?

[Kalevera]

Hmm...I didn't think to use a heat gun, but it makes sense. I guess the worst that could happen is that the vinyl could realize some stretch marks and discoloration from the ordeal.

As I mentioned -- I have to do it over again. I used mechanical means to secure it the first time around (vinyl was shrinking below the panel accessories/trim -- I fabbed a set of wood trims and drilled them into place with a set of brass wood screws per rear panel, effectively covering the gap...almost looks stock). But, I used goop and didn't cut the portion of the vinyl underneath the insert, so the back has bubbled out. The stuff that was gooped appears to have had a 75% success rate with the "elaborate high tech system" of weights and pulleys I used to clamp it all together :)

By the way -- I picked up another M30 on Friday (price was too good -- couldn't pass it by). Trying to decide what to do with it. Compression seems excellent, and it has to be quieter than what's currently in my car. I might stroke it; might dump it in as is with a few new seals, just to be safe; I've also been offered a cartech twin kit with most of the key elements. What kind of dyno numbers did you end up getting out of your 3,6 (or is it now a 3,7/8? I forget)?

Get this -- it had MF'ing CHAMPION spark plugs in it. Guess the PO visited the lawnmower shop to service his car.


best, whit

[Bill R.]

front panels after slitting the shrunken vinyl section and then gooped the inner leather panel up against the vinyl armrest section that pulls away.. this held for a little over a year, when it came unglued I reglued it and then carefully peeled back the leather from the inner panel and drilled holes through them and put some very thin headed bolts that i found at the hardware store here..they were less than 1/8 thick bolt heads and fairly large diameter. I put these through the inner fiberboard panel and then using 3m weatherstrip adhesive i reglued the leather back onto the inner panel over the bolt heads, they are thin enough that you don't see them once the foam and leather are glued over them. Then i drilled holes in the door panel and bolted the inner panels into place so they pulled down tight preventing the arm rest cover from pulling away anymorehttp://www.bimmernut.com/%7Ebillr/images/window5%20acopy.jpg





I'm wondering if the trick isn't along these lines:

1) peel the loose stuff back can carefully clean off the old glue on the vinyl and the fiberboard

2) spray in an industrial strength contact cement

3) with a heatgun, warm up the vinyl

4) carefully press the vinyl back into the grooves

Prep work, heat and the right glue I think are the keys. How far did you take your project along these lines?

[uscharalph]

front panels after slitting the shrunken vinyl section and then gooped the inner leather panel up against the vinyl armrest section that pulls away.. this held for a little over a year, when it came unglued I reglued it and then carefully peeled back the leather from the inner panel and drilled holes through them and put some very thin headed bolts that i found at the hardware store here..they were less than 1/8 thick bolt heads and fairly large diameter. I put these through the inner fiberboard panel and then using 3m weatherstrip adhesive i reglued the leather back onto the inner panel over the bolt heads, they are thin enough that you don't see them once the foam and leather are glued over them. Then i drilled holes in the door panel and bolted the inner panels into place so they pulled down tight preventing the arm rest cover from pulling away anymorehttp://www.bimmernut.com/%7Ebillr/images/window5%20acopy.jpg
Pretty good idea, Bill!

[Paul in NZ]

i would maybe leave the panel in the sun for a bit,heat gun.hmmmm