Question about diff. input Torque

[zuzuk212]

Finally getting to my diff. exchange! :D

But, as I'm taking it out, I'm looking down the road and wondering how the hell am I'm going to torque the input shaft nuts?! I can't get a socket in there to use my torque wrench ... I used an open end wrench to get them off.
Anybody have tips, tricks or ideas? I need to have it finished before the weekend is over ... I miss driving my car :p
Thanks,

Ken

[632 Regal]

here bro:
Rear end stuff (http://www.bimmer.info/~regal632/rearend.html)

[zuzuk212]

Right ... but what did you use to torque the drive shaft nuts? Did you torque them to spec?

Thanks,
Ken

[Kalevera]

Ken, half shafts/output flange can be torqued to spec; I normally just synch the driveshaft to input flange bolts with a box end wrench. Be sure to clean up the surface between the drive shaft and the flange before mating them, and use a new gasket. It will leak without being quite clean. New CV grease also helps. Pull the old stuff out with a rag -- it's a nasty job any way you shake a stick at it.

If you're planning on building the diff yourself, be VERY careful with the pinion nut. The TIS torquespec is *incorrect* and a lot of shops mess it up. You may want to get someone who seriously knows what they're doing to put it together, or take the risky approach and do what Jeff did.

best, whit

[632 Regal]

15k miles does not make my mechanical ability risky. I didnt use the correct torque since I didnt have an inch lb wrench or even the correct specs but have built my share of rear differentials.

Besides all the sand in the bearings may have skewed the torque readings :D


or take the risky approach and do what Jeff did.

[zuzuk212]

Guys ... I was asking about the six nuts which mate up the drive shaft to the input shaft of the diff ... not the single nut inside the input shaft. I thought that I could get them with a crows foot wrench adapter ... no go, couldn't get that to work :( It's too tight to get a socket and torque wrench in there and the crows foot needed a little more length. Any ideas?

Any who ... I got it back on the road ... did the best I could with guestamating the torque ... SOOO happy to have it back!! :)

Ken

[632 Regal]

when I tightened mine I did the lower 3 bolts snug, rotated the driveshaft and did the other 3, then I tightened them all with a box end wrench, plenty of room.

[zuzuk212]

when I tightened mine I did the lower 3 bolts snug, rotated the driveshaft and did the other 3, then I tightened them all with a box end wrench, plenty of room.

That's what I ended up doing ... I wanted to be able to torque them though so that they are at about equal pressure.

Ken

[632 Regal]

it's steel against steel so it isnt rocket science. When I tighten them I do it by feel and they are usually real close to the same torque (within 10#)

[zuzuk212]

it's steel against steel so it isnt rocket science. When I tighten them I do it by feel and they are usually real close to the same torque (within 10#)

They could shear off if too far out from each other ... I've seen a couple instances where too large of a difference in torque caused total failure. It only takes one to go, then all that force distributes to the rest until another one goes and then there is no chance for the rest.