Rotor screw help?

[angrypancake]

So I recently got new rotors and pads for the car, and it's obviously not a very hard job. I got the fronts done no problem, and on my driver's rear side, the rotor mounting screw was stripped to ****, and it sucks because that was the whole reason I was changing the brakes (the mechanic when I first got the car duffed it with rotor replacement ["you need this to pass inspection"] and maladjusted the parking brake and didn't even replace the pads. another rant). Anyways, I tried basically everything in the book to get it out. Drilling it, using a chisel to try and get it, a ton and a half of wd-40 and liquid wrench. Is there anything else I can do?

[Kalevera]

Well, for starters, use PB Blaster -- it's a much better catalyst than either WD40 or Liquid Wrench.

I usually take a hammer to the rotor before even attempting to pull the set screw. Helps knock the rust loose. If the head strips, it can be drilled out quite easily -- I'm not sure what kind of drill you're using, but it's a 1 minute job with the right bit.

Get a Milwaukee Magnum Holeshooter or similar ("serious") tool and try it. Daddy's rechargable screwdriver ain't gonna cut it.

Good luck!

best, whit

[angrypancake]

I was using a craftsman corded 3/8" drive drill with a bit designed for pulling stripped screws... I'll check out the PB blaster tomorrow, it might help, the screw is 100% frozen. Thanks Whit

[Kalevera]

;) Is the old rotor off or ? I've seen them FUSE to the hub, which could be part of the problem here -- ie, screw is not holding the rotor in place, rust is.

My rear pass wheel/rotor/hub were fused together I bought the car -- a biproduct of it sitting for two years and one reason why I use "excessive" amounts of antisieze grease these days. It took about a half hour of consistent work to get the entire thing apart. This was the process:

1) PB the heck out of the holes and the back of the rotor where it meets the hub. The stuff will seep in gradually, keep soaking it in stages -- it takes some time for it to break the tension.
2) Bang it with a hammer, hat sides and hub surface, top and bottom/left and right sides of the rotor face
3) Attempt (any kind of) rotational movement by grabbing the thing -- might not work in your case given that the set screw/stud is still in the hub.

I've encountered one similar situation on a car since then -- a '77 530i E12. I used an air hammer and a regular hammer, plus PB, with much faster success.


best, whit

[Jon K]

Grind the head of the set screw down so the rotor will come off. then try turning the stud with vice grips. Break out the PB blaster, torch, whatever you have... drill it out adn retap hole if needed.


SET SCREWS AREN'T 100% necessary.

They hold the rotor to the hub to keep lug holes aligned when wheel comes off. It does not have anything to do with the actual force of keeping the rotor on. I don't use them.

[uscharalph]

Grind the head of the set screw down so the rotor will come off. then try turning the stud with vice grips. Break out the PB blaster, torch, whatever you have... drill it out adn retap hole if needed.


SET SCREWS AREN'T 100% necessary.

They hold the rotor to the hub to keep lug holes aligned when wheel comes off. It does not have anything to do with the actual force of keeping the rotor on. I don't use them.
Really?

[Jon K]

Grind the head of the set screw down so the rotor will come off. then try turning the stud with vice grips. Break out the PB blaster, torch, whatever you have... drill it out adn retap hole if needed.


SET SCREWS AREN'T 100% necessary.

They hold the rotor to the hub to keep lug holes aligned when wheel comes off. It does not have anything to do with the actual force of keeping the rotor on. I don't use them.
Really?

really really. your entire rotor is not supported by one small screw. it's merely to keep the rotor on the hub when you rotate tires etc. I am a big boy and can manage removing my wheel and not having my rotor get askew. I don't use set screws, too much hassle, not enough reward :)

[JAlfredPrufrock]

You're not trying hard enough.

Use the force.

[Bellicose Right Winger]

I use a 3/8" bit centered on the allen hex and drill the head of the screw off. This leaves enough of the screw left to get vise grips on it.

Like others have said, all this screw does is keep bolt holes aligned, the rotor is really held by being clamped between hub and wheel. This screw isn't necessary, but it is convenient. On reassembly screw only needs to be finger tight.

Paul Shovestul


QUOTE=angrypancake]So I recently got new rotors and pads for the car, and it's obviously not a very hard job. I got the fronts done no problem, and on my driver's rear side, the rotor mounting screw was stripped to ****, and it sucks because that was the whole reason I was changing the brakes (the mechanic when I first got the car duffed it with rotor replacement ["you need this to pass inspection"] and maladjusted the parking brake and didn't even replace the pads. another rant). Anyways, I tried basically everything in the book to get it out. Drilling it, using a chisel to try and get it, a ton and a half of wd-40 and liquid wrench. Is there anything else I can do?[/QUOTE]

[Bill R.]

rotor retaining screw is very thin, so if you take a big hammer and whack the back side of the rotor 180 degrees opposite from the screw, you usually have enough leverage on the blow that it breaks out the rotor around the screw, then you can remove the rotor and enough screw sticks out of the hub that you can grab it with some big vice grips and get it loose the easy way.




So I recently got new rotors and pads for the car, and it's obviously not a very hard job. I got the fronts done no problem, and on my driver's rear side, the rotor mounting screw was stripped to ****, and it sucks because that was the whole reason I was changing the brakes (the mechanic when I first got the car duffed it with rotor replacement ["you need this to pass inspection"] and maladjusted the parking brake and didn't even replace the pads. another rant). Anyways, I tried basically everything in the book to get it out. Drilling it, using a chisel to try and get it, a ton and a half of wd-40 and liquid wrench. Is there anything else I can do?