540 barely runs. Code 1222, "Lambda Control" ? Help!

[STingray1100]

Help all,

The '95 540 almost stranded my wife today. Ran very rough at freeway speed, little or no throttle response. "Check Engine" light on.

Did the stomp test: #1222 - "Lambda Control 1".

Drove it myself a few hours later, seemed fine, until I drove it for about 7-8 miles, then did the same thing again. Barely made it home!

Any ideas? Bentley's has -0- information on this. Do I need to get it into a shop, or is this something I can repair myself?

*ANY* help is greatly appreciated ! ! !

Thank you!

[InfernoM3]

Help all,

The '95 540 almost stranded my wife today. Ran very rough at freeway speed, little or no throttle response. "Check Engine" light on.

Did the stomp test: #1222 - "Lambda Control 1".

Drove it myself a few hours later, seemed fine, until I drove it for about 7-8 miles, then did the same thing again. Barely made it home!

Any ideas? Bentley's has -0- information on this. Do I need to get it into a shop, or is this something I can repair myself?

*ANY* help is greatly appreciated ! ! !

Thank you!
i'm getting the same error usually happens when I'm accerelating and above 3k rpm. Taking my car into shop to figure it out on Friday. They said they gonna do a SCOPE AND ADJUST???? whatever that means?

[Qube]

Here ya go...


1221 and 1222 are usually the o2 sensor output is low.
Lambda Control #1 means the mixture is not varying and the OBD I system can not determine if it is a cause or affect.

I have no model or year information so I will give the usual generic o2 sensor info.

Bosch makes a generic sensor the same as the manufacture sensor for about 50% less.

It comes with wire connectors and you reuse the OE connector.

[632 Regal]

this is exactly why I wanted to do the basics threads. Let me tell you a little about you and where you live.... you are a kind soul who bought what you thought to be a maintenance free car, your climate is getting colder.


no?


You need to replace the pcv plate and intake gaskets.


im not getting deeper into this, read down a few lines and every V8 on this board is having the same problem as YOU! Happens this time every year man, bite the bullet and spend your 100 bux for the parts/gaskets.


Thank you![/QUOTE]

[Qube]

Or more comprehensively...


This code is stored when the DME detects excessive deviations in the air-fuel mixture (too rich or too lean) for longer than 10 seconds. Possible causes: Fuel tank ran empty, Incorrect Fuel Pressure, Injector valve defective or coked, Engine Temperature Sensor defective, Secondary air leak, Fuel evaporation control system defective, Air Flow Meter defective and/or the combustion is being disturbed by mechanical failure (Spark plugs, compression, intake/exhaust valves, ...etc.)


See: http://bmw3s.ru/text/tehdan/coddme1.htm

[632 Regal]

or?

read the recent posts about the dude that spent 5k trying to fix the problem and still has it.

only thing NOT changed was intake gaskets and PCV plate gaskets...hmmmm

I might be way off on this one huh?

[Shaun]

this is exactly why I wanted to do the basics threads. Let me tell you a little about you and where you live.... you are a kind soul who bought what you thought to be a maintenance free car, your climate is getting colder.


no?


You need to replace the pcv plate and intake gaskets.


im not getting deeper into this, read down a few lines and every V8 on this board is having the same problem as YOU! Happens this time every year man, bite the bullet and spend your 100 bux for the parts/gaskets.


Thank you![/QUOTE]


I think, while this could certainly be the issue, that it's far cheaper and efficient to check other things first. I had this issue about 2 months ago, and it was certainly not my intake gaskets nor my PCV plate.

It was a combination of 1) O2 sensors needed to be replaced (by virtue of timing, not anything particularly wrong) and 2) My intake boot (or elbow) was disintegrated. I have a sneaking suspicion that just replacing the rubber boot would have fixed the problem up and up.

I think it might be prudent for us, as folks who have experienced these problems and give advice to others, to not just assume that every symptom has only one fix, or the cause is even the most popular problem associated with the given symptoms.

Could it be the PCV plate? Possibly. Wouldn't it be better to start with easier and cheaper solutions than perhaps causing people more undue stress and work than required?

[632 Regal]

yes your absolutly right, replace every other part that could cause that fault first.

then after you have spent your thousands on parts and work remember I mentioned the PCV plate and gasket/intake gaskets.

this will go on all winter man, it's a fact that the V8s inherintly FAIL also with the Nikasil diagnosis for the same reason.

word man.

[STingray1100]

WOW! Great responses guys!

I count 2 'votes' for the O2 sensors. Not that the other ideas have no merrit, but the problem seems to come on after the engine is totally heated up (7-8 miles). Am I amiss in thinking this would be consistent with a O2 sensor problem? BTW, I checked the intake hose (elbow..."accordian"-?) from the air cleaner box to the intake inlet. Is this the right part? It seems to be perfect.

regarding the PCV plate, wouldn't that exhibit the symptoms all the time? <shrug>

I'm learning here...

Thanks,

Ray

[632 Regal]

then YOUR problem has subsided...


and it was certainly not my intake gaskets nor my PCV plate.?[/QUOTE]

also Im sure the computers were reset during this repair making it a "new" car.

[STingray1100]

WOW! Great responses guys!

I count 2 'votes' for the O2 sensors. Not that the other ideas have no merrit, but the problem seems to come on after the engine is totally heated up (7-8 miles). Am I amiss in thinking this would be consistent with a O2 sensor problem? BTW, I checked the intake hose (elbow..."accordian"-?) from the air cleaner box to the intake inlet. Is this the right part? It seems to be perfect.

regarding the PCV plate, wouldn't that exhibit the symptoms all the time? <shrug>

I'm learning here...

Thanks,

Ray

[DueyT]

Ray, Lambda is ratio of O2 to overall exhaust gas volume. When you get a Lambda 1 or 2, the car is telling that the O2 ratio in the exhaust is not within the parameters that the DME's proper management (fuel/air) mapping should result in. Guys will often assume that this is because the O2 sensor is failing and is not measuring the actual level of O2 in the exhaust. As Jeff noted, however, there could be another reason there is apparently an out-of-parameter indication to the system. As we've seen in other threads, a whole bunch of 540/530's start to have rough idling and throw 1221/1222 codes like they're going out of style...all around fall time, as the temperature starts to drop. Consider that there is air getting into the induction system in a manner that causes confusion within the DME's world of fuel/air metering. There are any number of spots to check...anywhere after the MAF and prior to the intake valve: intake boot, PVC, intake manifold gaskets, cracked intake manifold, etc... Jeff was pointing out two of the biggies (PVC and intake gaskets). Yes, you could also have a cracked intake boot or for ASC+T-equipped cars, there could be some leaking happening around the ASC+T butterfly valve between the MAF and the intake manifold proper. There are very good odds that if you have never replaced the PVC/cyclone valve or the intake gaskets on your intake maifold/bugles, that your ripe for a few hours of "top off" work on your big V-8. Also, don't forget about checking thoroughly from MAF to intake. You may just find the fitting that has cracked or boot that has shrunk slightly and is pulling off the elbow, or whatever. Of course, there are some other rough idle gotcha's not at all related to a Lambd error that also cause issues, leaky valve covers that let oil pool at the base of the sparkplug are also a well known (well, to some of us) problem. That was why Jeff was on about having a bunch of these threads that are either "stickied" or refreshed fom time to time, as the problems, like this seasonal one, tend to manifest themselves. Yes, it could be your O2 sensors, mine went on me and threw a 1222 code, but this was in the heat of summer, so I pretty well knew it really was an O2 sensor. That said, come spring time when I get home, I'll be doing the gaskets and PVC plate this spring, more as a preventative measure than because the car's acting up.

Cheers,
Duey

p.s. Ray, re: PVC plate, when the rear area of the engine warms up, the plastic of the plate will expand and any minor leaks around it will be sealed after the heat gets to it. If the leak/crack is bad enough, no amount of heating up will make the engine settle out and run smoothly.

[STingray1100]

Thanks Duey! Very helpful explanation. Perhaps a couple of thoughts about my particular situation may shed some (more) light on this:

1- it came on suddenly (today)
2- it runs fine before the engine has achieved full 'hot' running temps
3- it doesn't just idle rough, it bogs down, and when applying more throttle, it doesn't increase power or rpms. It even runs a tad better when I let off the throttle (just above idle-ish)
4- I had the Alusil block installed at 41k miles, now have 93k miles (new PVC plate before Alusil, so I assume they used the same one I had for the new Alusil-?)
5- when cold/cool/etc., it runs like a scalded ape, no evidence of any problems.
6- this "seasonal" thing...hmmm, this has never happened before (to me:-) and have had the car for 6 1/2 years now.

Like you say, there may be a number of issues involved, but was hoping for a quick repair for the weekend out of town. Does this increase in information help narrow things down a bit?

Thanks So much for your (and others') help! ! !

[Shaun]

then YOUR problem has subsided...

...

also Im sure the computers were reset during this repair making it a "new" car.

The computer was not reset.

What you're saying is the only thing that fixes these symptoms is the PCV plate. And I think that's rather short-sighted. I fixed my problems with a new intake boot. It was an immediate revert to the way it ran prior to the boot failing, with no computer resets or anything else of the sort.

$40 whole dollars of replacing parts before just tearing into my engine to attempt a rather large job is more than a good bargain. The fact is, I've personally talked to at least 4 folks with the same symptoms, suggested they check the boot only for them to find out, sure enough, the boot was almost GONE. There have been others where this was NOT the case, and they moved on to looking into other causes.

But just because it's a common cause, doesn't mean it's the ONLY cause. Wouldn't you rather start by checking out other options (not necessarily replacing everything) and making sure the problem isn't caused by something a little more simple than the PCV plate? Running around telling everybody with a rough idle that it's definitely their PCV plate is just as bad as telling them it's definitely that their Nikasil block went **** up.

[632 Regal]

My posts are just for junk points but think about it, "all a sudden" this is a classic example of intake or PCV plate gasket failure. I wouldnt push this point if it didnt happen to me personally.

Do as you wish, this is my and others advice.

[DueyT]

I do it with my other cars, but not sure if a good idea with our M60's....I spray carb cleaner abound the entire induction system to find air leaks that throw the metering on my other big-8 off a bit...of course that would mean lifting the engine cover and might not diagnose a cracked manifold if there was a crack on the underside.

Ray, your situation definietly sounds different. Unfortunately I don't have access to my ETK/TIS..there's something sitting in the back of my head trying to remind me about warm stumbling, but I can't recall it just now. Maybe Bill R. of Winfred will come up with what I'm trying to remember... :(

Cheers,
Duey

[632 Regal]

carb cleaner = kaBoom if somethings not right

[DueyT]

carb cleaner = kaBoom if somethings not right
Yeah, kinda what I figured, Jeff.

[STingray1100]

Yeah, kinda what I figured, Jeff.
Well, I'm not sure if things would go "kaBoom" (have done it for years on other cars with no bad affects), but then again, none of them were fussy/sensitive like the BMW.

Anyway, I sure appreciate all the feedback. Here's what I know (now). I took it to a local indy ("M Service" in Walnut Creek, CA). They called me and told me (to my shame) that my 02 sensors were shot. One of them even showing an 'open circuit'. Hey, I thought they were changed when the dealer changed the cats a few years ago, how was I supposed to know?

And now the less good news, they want to do a "smoke test" on the engine tomorrow morning when the engine is stone-cold, as they fear a possible intake leak (plate or manifold, not sure which or even IF its one of them at all).

The 02 sensors I will do myself (they want $500 to install new OEM sensors <yikes!>), it should only take me a few minutes and about $200 (?) for the pair.

Holding my breathe about the smoke test though. I will definitely post the results when it's all done.

And 632 Regal, FWIW, I don't consider your comments any less valuable than anyone else's. I appreciate your input! #1, I'd rather know the right news ASAP (good or bad), and #2, I also am a firm believer that one should start with the 'cheap/easy' things first, unless its obvious of course:-)

Duey, I have the ETK/TKS on my computer, what would I be looking for?

Thanks again all !!!

[632 Regal]

Interesting, I never heard of a smoke test but it makes sence in my head. If they keep the car inside it will be warm and the gaskets will swell a bit more than when cold so that will be an inacurate test. The reasons people dont believe this is common is because of exactly that *they have had the car for years and it never happened "before*

Mine was a total pest to isolate becuse the boots were leaking from the underside and it took me a while to figure out the hidden problem, ran good until the fall, then I started getting tons of codes all leading in different directions. I rebooted so the computer could deal with the air mixture change til I could get around to fixing it.

[STingray1100]

WELL, HERE IT IS FOLKS!.........................................

Well, are you ready for this? It was: #1- throttle body "O" ring (for the ASC+T) system; #2- another 'gasket' (of sorts) for the primary throttle body.

NO leaks out of the PCV plate...however, they commented that at aroud 95k - 100k tey do see more of them going bad. So, even though the stealer was SUPPOSED to have replaced it at around 40k (I'll deal with BMW about this later! <grrrrr!>), their tech said it appeared to be 'original'. So, rather than making another visit (or dipping into my precious time these days), I just had them go ahead and do it.

I have to admit though, that part of the reason I did it was because I 'stole' the 02 sensor part of the job from them (I can get them from BMW for $144 for the PAIR w/ my discount!)

So, the end of the story seems to be those silly "O" rings/gaskets on the throttle bodies. Easy enough to change, for sure. but who's got a spare $100k lying around to buy that diagnostic machine (if anyone does, please forward it to me...I could use it! <LOL!>)

I guess that's something else to include in the archives as something ELSE that can go wrong, eh? <grin>

Thank you all so much for you assistance. It's greatly helpful to know that there are others who've gone through this stuff and can offer something else to think about other than "Oh Crap!, the sky is falling" :-)

Here are som pics of my "Baby":
http://community.webshots.com/photo/97381781/262514205SwhDLA
http://community.webshots.com/photo/97381781/262514970UJyCPK
http://community.webshots.com/photo/97381781/262523804HiBjzr

Whole album here: (some repair stuff too)
http://community.webshots.com/album/97381781YrcNgK/3

And there's a lot more albums, especially of my long distance motorcycle riding/tours.

Enjoy!

Have a great weekend!

Ray

[632 Regal]

so it came down a basic intake leak...were the o rings visibly bad or just shrunk?

Nice details on the cats/muffler and driveshaft!


WELL, HERE IT IS FOLKS!.........................................

Well, are you ready for this? It was: #1- throttle body "O" ring (for the ASC+T) system; #2- another 'gasket' (of sorts) for the primary throttle body.

NO leaks out of the PCV plate...however, they commented that at aroud 95k - 100k tey do see more of them going bad. So, even though the stealer was SUPPOSED to have replaced it at around 40k (I'll deal with BMW about this later! <grrrrr!>), their tech said it appeared to be 'original'. So, rather than making another visit (or dipping into my precious time these days), I just had them go ahead and do it.

I have to admit though, that part of the reason I did it was because I 'stole' the 02 sensor part of the job from them (I can get them from BMW for $144 for the PAIR w/ my discount!)

So, the end of the story seems to be those silly "O" rings/gaskets on the throttle bodies. Easy enough to change, for sure. but who's got a spare $100k lying around to buy that diagnostic machine (if anyone does, please forward it to me...I could use it! <LOL!>)

I guess that's something else to include in the archives as something ELSE that can go wrong, eh? <grin>

Thank you all so much for you assistance. It's greatly helpful to know that there are others who've gone through this stuff and can offer something else to think about other than "Oh Crap!, the sky is falling" :-)

Here are som pics of my "Baby":
http://community.webshots.com/photo/97381781/262514205SwhDLA
http://community.webshots.com/photo/97381781/262514970UJyCPK
http://community.webshots.com/photo/97381781/262523804HiBjzr

Whole album here: (some repair stuff too)
http://community.webshots.com/album/97381781YrcNgK/3

And there's a lot more albums, especially of my long distance motorcycle riding/tours.

Enjoy!

Have a great weekend!

Ray

[STingray1100]

Well, of COURSE! Are you all ready for this??? M Service just called. Car runs perfect...then just died. The fuel pump just gave up. They suspect it was probably the main reason for the acute situation. <RATS!>

Now, another $600 (updated pump, all new relays, etc.)

Oh well, what are ya gonna do?

BTW, the tech said that no matter when the PCV plate was replaced, it was starting to suck oil, and that's bad...:-)

<Sigh!>....So this should add further to the mystery of driving a "Fine German Car", eh?

Have fun!

[632 Regal]

man this thing is still a mystery, I doubt that the fuel pump just "died" I think they are fishing and gonna replace everything and when they finally get lucky enough to actually throw a dart in the right direction you wont have to touch any of that stuff for another dozen or so years.

you rich? Personally id have them diagnose and repair it myself....but then again I'm quite poor the last few years.

[DueyT]

Ray, looks sharp! I definitely like the clears and shadowline! Glad you found the problem...definitely something worthy of the archives.

Cheers, Duey

[STingray1100]

man this thing is still a mystery, I doubt that the fuel pump just "died" I think they are fishing and gonna replace everything and when they finally get lucky enough to actually throw a dart in the right direction you wont have to touch any of that stuff for another dozen or so years.

you rich? Personally id have them diagnose and repair it myself....but then again I'm quite poor the last few years.
"Rich" is a subjective term, at best:-) If Rich = "blessed", then yes, I am VERY rich. Monetarily I'm doing OK (not great, but OK), I still have to work for a living.

As far as fuel pumps going out, I now remember the first reply that I was going to post (but somehow deleted): I am still kicking myself for not doing a "brain diagnosis" in the first place. 20 years ago, if this had happened to any other car I owned, I would have suspected the fuel pump FIRST!!! I'm such an idiot...a poorer idiot for sure, but an idiot never-the-less. All the classic symptoms. And in this case, the windings in the electric pump would begin to fail when it got hot (had an old Porsche that did the same thing, with the fuel pump and the starter motor. Swapped in a "solid state" fuel pump and never again had any problems. And, starters will be starters.)

If M Service (a very reputable firm around here) IS "fishing" or throwing darts, they will find themselves on the losing end (after I lose some too of course:-))). But I really don't think that's the case.

I *am* doing the 02 sensors myself though ($144 for the pair at BMW....1/2 price of aftermarket Bosch sensors!!! go figure...)

Thanks for the replies! I'll post again once the test drive is over...

Ray

[STingray1100]

Thanks Duey. We picked up this car C.P.O. at the dealer, and have tried hard to maintain and care for it, as it should prove to be a real long-lived value (other than this experience, I only have a bout $1000 into it for "repairs". Not bad for 6 1/2 years/65k of driving.

Thanks All!

Ray

[SilverFive90]

Thanks Duey. We picked up this car C.P.O. at the dealer, and have tried hard to maintain and care for it, as it should prove to be a real long-lived value (other than this experience, I only have a bout $1000 into it for "repairs". Not bad for 6 1/2 years/65k of driving.

Thanks All!

Ray

Interesting read...i think I've eliminated some of my worries by reading it. And btw, you're a lucky man...$1000...I spent that much the first 3 months that I owned mine.

[brosher]

Been reading through this post and wondering if I can get some help with my 1222.

I was going to reset the codes but my car flashed 1222 for more than a half hour and never reached the 1000 for me to reset. At least I was productive and changed my microfilter during this. Is there any quick way to reset all the codes?

My symtoms are that I get a CEL on the first idle of the morning. Car starts up and idle for 30 seconds or so, then i drive for 5 minutes before the first stop light. As I wait at the light CEL comes on. A little throttle blip makes it turn off. Then I drive another 5 minutes or so before stopping again and no more CEL for the rest of the day.

[632 Regal]

either disconnect the battery for 30 minutes or unplug the ECM for a little while, eather will work. If you get another lambda control code you most likly have intake leaks. it is a very very rare chance the O2 sensor is bad but the intake leaks are more likly with the M60.


Been reading through this post and wondering if I can get some help with my 1222.

I was going to reset the codes but my car flashed 1222 for more than a half hour and never reached the 1000 for me to reset. At least I was productive and changed my microfilter during this. Is there any quick way to reset all the codes?

My symtoms are that I get a CEL on the first idle of the morning. Car starts up and idle for 30 seconds or so, then i drive for 5 minutes before the first stop light. As I wait at the light CEL comes on. A little throttle blip makes it turn off. Then I drive another 5 minutes or so before stopping again and no more CEL for the rest of the day.

[brosher]

Seems your theory is holding true. It was about 10 degrees cooler this morning and the problem was the worse it's been! The idle actually turned rough where as before the only problem I noticed was CEL.

I am trying to compile a parts list as there isn't one with the how to. Someone mentioned that there is an O ring having to do with ASC that shrinks, what part is that? If the boot looks good should I replace anyways?

13541747475 - ASC only O ring
11611729727 - front manifold gasket
11611729728 - rear manifold gasket
11151736140 - O ring
11611433328 x 4 - cylindar head gaskets
11611736648 x 10 - bushings, are these worth replacing or should I just buy a couple spares? They are 3.30 each.


What should be replaced from this diagram?
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/diagrams/h/f/8.png