Transmission Fluid Change

[Alexlind123]

First of all, a little about my car. I do not know when the fluid has last been changed. I do know that the transmission fluid is a transparent red color (like strawberry jam) and does not smell burnt. I have narrowed it down to three choices:

Choice A: I change the transmission fluid as per the bentley intsructions, replaicing the gasket and fliter as well.

Choice B: I change the fluid as per bentley instructions, along with the gasket and filter but save the old fluid in some sort of container as a back up for if the transmission suddenly died because it does not have the "grittiness" anymore.

Choice C: I dont change the fluid at all and wait for the inevitable transmission failure 100-300k miles down the road.

The question is, which choice should i choose?

[632 Regal]

pretty much rule of thumb here is to change the filer and all the fluid that escapes (about 3-4 Qts) Only. do this about every 30k and you should be fine.

[Alexlind123]

The rest is just trapped in the torque converter then? My transmission leaks, so i added some fluid to bring it near the high mark on the dipstick. It continued to leaked for a couple of weeks, so i thought it might be a good idea to check the level and add some. But the level was still at the high mark from when i topped it off the the last time! Two weeks of leaving puddles in the driveway but no fluid missing? I hope gallons and gallons of fluid dont come out when i change it and keep pouring out untill i put the plug back in...maybe its a "bottomless" transmission?

[632 Regal]

LMAO... I think you will only lose 3-4 qts on the filter change. a dramatic flush or change is what can kill the trans.

[Alexlind123]

No one can explain why the level on the dipstick did not go down?

[Kalevera]

Alex, we talk about this all the time, man.

How is the fluid level being checked? What's leaking? The rear output seal leaks on practically all of these. Pan gasket is going to be replaced when you do the fluid/filter change. Use the OEM filter -- cheap/non BMW ones will collapse, although this is more a 5hp issue.

The decision to change the fluid is up to you -- you're the one who has to pay the consequences if the sucker doesn't shift after adding new fluid.

Saving the old fluid in hopes of adding it back in if the thing stops working demonstrates a bit of misunderstanding as to what's happening in such a situation: the old fluid may be burnt or dirty, adding new/clean fluid with fresh "detergents" effectively cleans the trans up a bit. The frictions in the clutchpacks lose some unknown quantity of adhesive, thereby causing the trans to slip or otherwise not work. So, changing the fluid dislodges the "dirt". Analyzing the current fluid helps to determine how much gunk is already in the trans.

Do 15k fluid/filter changes on the 4hp-22. Once you've started them and the trans is fine, no need to worry about it. Just drive the thing.


best, whit

[liquidtiger720]

whit. what kind of symptoms are seen when a filter collapses?


My transmission makes a big clink sound sometimes when shifting gears....

[uscharalph]

Alex, we talk about this all the time, man.

How is the fluid level being checked? What's leaking? The rear output seal leaks on practically all of these. Pan gasket is going to be replaced when you do the fluid/filter change. Use the OEM filter -- cheap/non BMW ones will collapse, although this is more a 5hp issue.

The decision to change the fluid is up to you -- you're the one who has to pay the consequences if the sucker doesn't shift after adding new fluid.

Saving the old fluid in hopes of adding it back in if the thing stops working demonstrates a bit of misunderstanding as to what's happening in such a situation: the old fluid may be burnt or dirty, adding new/clean fluid with fresh "detergents" effectively cleans the trans up a bit. The frictions in the clutchpacks lose some unknown quantity of adhesive, thereby causing the trans to slip or otherwise not work. So, changing the fluid dislodges the "dirt". Analyzing the current fluid helps to determine how much gunk is already in the trans.

Do 15k fluid/filter changes on the 4hp-22. Once you've started them and the trans is fine, no need to worry about it. Just drive the thing.


best, whit
That's the plan for my tranny, when I get around to it.

[uscharalph]

That's the plan for my tranny, when I get around to it.
I've got the parts, just need to find the time.

[632 Regal]

you are the future post whore, I think your daily numbers are higher than mine!

[uscharalph]

you are the future post whore, I think your daily numbers are higher than mine!
No you've got me there: 10.39 for you vs 8.38 for me. I was kind of motivated to get to 2,000 posts. Now I'm just going to try and help when I can and look for solid advice on my current and future e34's.

[Kalevera]

whit. what kind of symptoms are seen when a filter collapses?


My transmission makes a big clink sound sometimes when shifting gears....


Josh, any symptoms associated with fluid starvation. Slipping in general/slipping in corners or on hard acceleration. Trans Program messages. Things of this nature.

I haven't seen one collapse, but all of these ZF experts and guys who regularly rebuild them talk about the necessity of the OE service filter. I don't think it's a problem with the GM boxes, but I could very well be wrong on that.

Clunks on shifting usually point to a drivetrain suspension issue -- check all mounts, the center support bearing, and the subframe bushings.

best, whit

[632 Regal]

your way over 2k, time to take a vacation and allow me to take another thousand posts. Im guessin that about 70% of mine are helpful, probably a skewed rating tho


No you've got me there: 10.39 for you vs 8.38 for me. I was kind of motivated to get to 2,000 posts. Now I'm just going to try and help when I can and look for solid advice on my current and future e34's.

[genphreak]

The decision to change the fluid is up to you -- you're the one who has to pay the consequences if the sucker doesn't shift after adding new fluid.

Saving the old fluid in hopes of adding it back in if the thing stops working demonstrates a bit of misunderstanding as to what's happening in such a situation: the old fluid may be burnt or dirty, adding new/clean fluid with fresh "detergents" effectively cleans the trans up a bit. The frictions in the clutchpacks lose some unknown quantity of adhesive, thereby causing the trans to slip or otherwise not work. So, changing the fluid dislodges the "dirt". Analyzing the current fluid helps to determine how much gunk is already in the trans.

Do 15k fluid/filter changes on the 4hp-22. Once you've started them and the trans is fine, no need to worry about it. Just drive the thing.

best, whitKriss and I just did my 4HP22EH, it sure had a bit of gold dust in it after a crumby repairer in Sydney ripped me for hundreds of $$$ to fill it up with synthetic w/o even doing the filter. The magnets were gunked, blackened (but red not brown) fluid (apparently they used Mobil 1) but obviously only half the fluid was changed. I used Transmax Z, so with any luck it'll be ok. I'll take it super easy on her for the first few hundred kms (till those clutchpacks you mention have a chance to bed) in (assuming I get that far)... :) Nick

ps Whit- is the rear seal hard to change? I looked at the exploded ETK diagram when I had my driveshaft out, it looked like a risky operation (impossible perhaps) without taking the tranny down as the output shaft seemed to locate a lot of cogs in the rear of the box- removing it to replace the seal seemed to risk 'setting them loose'...

[Interceptor]

I've got the parts, just need to find the time.
Being a 2 grand master, I'd say you have more than enough free time :)

[uscharalph]

Being a 2 grand master, I'd say you have more than enough free time :)
LOL!! I guess you're right. I need to shift focus I guess.