::.. Leaking till the cows come home

[Qube]

So here's the verdict for my leaks and squealing belts. The heated seats will have to wait a bit. Labor is going to be killer...

- Valve cover gasket leaking
- Power steering lines leaking (tank to pump/box to cooler/cooler to tank)
- Coolant leaking (lower rad hose)
- Transmission output shaft and shifter shaft seals leaking
- Rear differential side seal (right side) leaking
- Drive belt stretched and cracked
- Rear crossmember bushings need to be reseated
- Rear differential oil critically low
- Oil pan gasket leaking

[Jay 535i]

- Rear differential side seal (right side) leaking
- Rear differential oil critically low

Let me know about that side seal. Mine needs one too.

How do you check the diff's oil level?

Man, old cars suck ;)

[Qube]

Let me know about that side seal. Mine needs one too.

How do you check the diff's oil level?

Man, old cars suck ;)

The diff has a filler plug you open with an allen key. Basically just check to see that the level is to the bottom of the hole. It's on 1-19 of the Haynes

[genphreak]

So here's the verdict for my leaks and squealing belts. The heated seats will have to wait a bit. Labor is going to be killer...

- Valve cover gasket leaking
- Power steering lines leaking (tank to pump/box to cooler/cooler to tank)
- Coolant leaking (lower rad hose)
- Transmission output shaft and shifter shaft seals leaking
- Rear differential side seal (right side) leaking
- Drive belt stretched and cracked
- Rear crossmember bushings need to be reseated
- Rear differential oil critically low
- Oil pan gasket leaking Go for a new PS resovoir too- they cost $16 (original ZF) and leak at the seam as soon as someone overfills them (I think). Maybe leave the sump till you do the oil pump chain drive, just make sure the bolts are all torqued right (don't overtighten any) to limit any leak- you really want to do the oil pump at the same time as you do the timing chain, crank seal, sprockets and chain tensioner- you'll need a front (timing cover) gasket set of course. The parts are real cheap but it'll take you some time to do.

Don't forget check the tightness of your oil-rail (banjo bolts), of course...

:) Nick

[Qube]

Go for a new PS resovoir too- they cost $16 (original ZF) and leak at the seam as soon as someone overfills them (I think). Maybe leave the sump till you do the oil pump chain drive, just make sure the bolts are all torqued right (don't overtighten any) to limit any leak- you really want to do the oil pump at the same time as you do the timing chain, crank seal, sprockets and chain tensioner- you'll need a front (timing cover) gasket set of course. The parts are real cheap but it'll take you some time to do.

Don't forget check the tightness of your oil-rail (banjo bolts), of course...

:) Nick

I'd have no problem doing this myself with my two mechanic buddies, but I don't have axlestands yet... let alone a hoist ;) More calls to be made...

[Qube]

After putting some thought into it, I may just have:

- Transmission output shaft and shifter shaft seals leaking
- Rear differential side seal (right side) leaking
- Drive belt stretched and cracked

...done at the dealer. The rest I can somewhat do in my spare time. Let's see how much they want...

5 hr - Transmission output shaft and shifter shaft seals leaking
1 hr - Rear differential side seal (right side) leaking
1 hr - Drive belt stretched and cracked

...r-i-g-h-t. On second thought. I'll just have the diff and belt done ;)