need some help from electric gurus

[shogun]

As there are some of the best guys in the field here, I link the question here from bimmerboard, where I am mod as you know. Thanks for the help.
http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/127089

[winfred]

the CC does not monitor the cluster/interior lights, i've not seen it on a e34 yet but i've seen many e32s and e36s have their dash light rheostat's nuked by stereo shops, not sure if this is helpful

[Javier]

1. "CHECK CONTROL" message appears at ignition. Disappears shortly after.

Mine does it always now. Quite convinced is a poor contact issue in the CCM connector, as plugging / unplugging it repeatedly after some contact cleaner will solve for a short wile. Also, I'm missing some warnings, as the one for "Lights on" wile bad behaving.

2. Button on turn signal lever no longer triggers OBC info in cluster LCD.

This is worse, guess the wire from the lever to OBC is properly plugged, but if the car has Telephone interface, the signal go trough it before reaching OBC, so a Telephone interface in trouble will cause this issue. For that check fuse F18 and F40.

3. "CHECK CONTROL - OK" appears when Check Control button activated.

That's normal once the message "Check Control" disappears.

4. Pushing the OBC S/R button triggers the gong.

This is funny, No idea as the comment is out of context, I mean, need lot more info in the issue and surroundings, to have an idea what is going on.

Q: Does the CCM (Check Control Module) send a "CHECK CONTROL" message when a 1.2W cluster bulb needs replacing?

Would not dare to comment on Winfred wisdom response.

The problem occurred while installing a Stellar alarm system. After installation a siren test was performed. During the test the voltage to the flashing cluster LCD seemed to drop as the cluster light dimmed. Two fuses were blown: #32 and #5. #32 seems to handle the central locking circuit, while #5 appears to take the load of the interior lighting circuit. All other fuses intact. Replacing the blown fuses revealed the cluster LCD problem.

Fuse F5 powers ALL the interior lights, not the cabin illumination, but the device indication, as back lights and dimmer controlled bulbs. May be wile installing the alarm, a short was caused blowing the fuse, just replace the bulb. Fuse F32 powers the driver's lock key switch and lock knob monitor, also relay module in lock related functions and double sunroof. Again, it is probable that installing alarm shorted to ground some lines related to drivers lock key, blowing the fuse, hopefully, it was only a temporary damage and re-fusing will hold.

During a bout of desperate research I happened to noticed that the realoemparts.com's parts catalog lists the 15A OBC relay fuse at 20A.
Could this be the origin of the problem? Or is a short circuit between the alarm harness and the OBC relay likely to blame?

Are you still having blown fuses? In my drawings, OBC horn relay shows a 15A fuse.

Javier

[shogun]

but do not be so shy and answer directly ;)
There is no competition between these boards and the E34 folks there and here need some help.
Sometimes "looking over the fence into neighbours garden" is also good to learn something new.
And do not forget the good archive
http://www.e38.org/e34/

See you :)

[Strap]

The first thing i would say is re-wire the parking light flash on the alarm sys, IT Should not flash the interior dashbaord lights at all. During the test the voltage to the flashing cluster LCD seemed to drop as the cluster light dimmed ( if i read it correctly he said it happend after the alarm install and the dashlights dimmed out after ) the parking lights should only flash outside the car , not like other cars where the dash lights and exterior lights flash, bmw's have right and left parking lights and must be connected through 2 relays or 2 diodes. check control trigger switch in the stalk ( blinkers ) has a very small 2 pin connector at the base of the colume , if you did an alarm install it was more than likely moved out of the way to get to the starter/ ignition/ accesory wires. so check that first. You also need to change / or check that the 12v constant power for the alarm is not from a secondary power circut ie: interior lights / door locks... use 1 of the 2 solid red 12v wires at the colume for all the power for the alarm sys, this way it will always be isolated from the cars body computer.

Any more info you need send me a message . good hunting.:)
Strap