Question about the M30 oil pump. m=>

[Hector]

A while ago, I believe back in early December, there was a disscussion on the cold start low oil pressure warning light that went away after a few seconds from startup which was possibly related the oil filter housing. Just before I pulled the cylinder head off, my car was exhibiting this symptom. George, I believe you were involved in this discussion and I think I remember you saying that you had taken apart your oil pump... I got a dilemma, I will be changing the oil pan gasket and don't know if I should replace the pump while I'm at it. I think there is nothing wrong with the pump but it has 173K mi on it. I don't have a sense for how long oil pumps last so if anyone can provide any info, I'd appreacite it much.
Hector

[George M]

Hector, it is always about the ratio of part cost to labor. If the labor cost is a heavy hit, one really never should scimp on part cost because the cost to go back in at a later date will negate the economy of killing two birds with one stone. If you are going in brother, I would change the pump "if you are holding on to your E-34". When I reinstalled my new oil cannister, my old pump with 135k miles on it wouldn't push oil up through the new stouter check valve...why I changed mine...needed a oil pan gasket anyway. The new pump pushed oil through no problem...simply a function of worn internal pump clearances...nothing discernible wrong with the old pump.
A good rule of thumb is if given the opportunity, never a bad idea to swap out an old oil pump with say 150k miles on any motor...figuring your M-30 bottom end with good maintenance should go to 300k without overhaul or beyond.
HTH,
George

[Hector]

George, excellent point about killing two... I was also leaning in that direction. Sometimes I need a little smack across the head to jump back into reality :o) Yep, I plan to keep the ride for a long time, and from what I've seen on this board, there are several people who are the privileged few who have broken the 200K mi mark!! I know there are a baby-handfull of others that are above 250K mi!!! Gol-dang! Holy sheep stuff!! Well, time to splurge once again for more parts. Thanks my man,
Hector

[AllanS]

George, do you know off hand if it's possible to remove the oil pan without having to lift the engine up?

[Martin in Bellevue]

George, do you know off hand if it's possible to remove the oil pan without having to lift the engine up?

You'll want to pull the coolant tank reservoir at firewall on the m30 cars. Also, unbolt the power steering pump brackets from the block for clearance; leave the lines attached.

[George M]

Hi Allan,
Can be done two ways really...what Martin did which is lift the motor up which I did partially as well with the exception that I dropped the engine cradle X-mbr because it was over the winter and I had my suspension off for rebuild anyway. Removing the X-mbr is more work but in some ways easier if that makes any sense :-) Brief explanation....remove all the stuff that Martin suggested...a good time to change the engine mounts as well. Push the motor up from underneath about 2 inches or as high as it will go. Shim the engine mounts up with small blocks of wood...this can be done with or without the puck style mounts present. Visualize all the stuff effected...I loosened the trans mount bolts for example and exhaust hanger mount prior to pushing the motor up. A tip is...the CG of the M-30 is not symmetric about the X-car centerline...put a generous block of wood under th "left side" of the aluminum oil pan and push up with a floor jack for equivalent raising of the engine from each engine mount. I suggest you first try it as Martin did....loosen the pan....drop it down onto the engine X-mbr and then stick your hand in between the pan and bottom of the engine block and remove the oil pick up from the oil pump which hits on the baffle inside the pan if trying to remove the pan with the pick up intact. This technique does take some dexterity but probably the best way to get the pan off and have access to the oil pump for removal. As you can probably surmise, this is not one of the more pleasant jobs to perform on these cars...a bit messy and awkward.
If you get into the job and get stuck, either post or send me an e-mail.
HTH,
George

[AllanS]

George, Martin, that's exactly what I was looking for. I'm going to need to mess about in that area in a few months, so I guess I'll replace the mounts while I'm down there as well. I need to completely remove the pan so I guess I'm in for a bit of work.

Also, is it necessary to remove the driveshaft from the transmission, or will it allow for enough movement whilst connected?

Thanks!

[Hector]

but what I'm going to do is rent a cherry picker, or engine hoist. Since the engine compartment is almost bare, and the radiator and harmonic vibration damper have been removed, I'm hoping that removal of the oil pan will be done in a snap. I tried to figure out a way to use a couple of jacks to lift the engine but I thought it would get crowded under the car for me to remove the pan relatively easy. I think it is doable as you suggest. Wood between the jacks and engine bracket mounts or AC could be use to distribute the pressure at the jack heads if this makes sense.
Hector



You'll want to pull the coolant tank reservoir at firewall on the m30 cars. Also, unbolt the power steering pump brackets from the block for clearance; leave the lines attached.

[George M]

no need to remove the driveshaft. Just let your common sense be your guide. Pull the pins on your radiator shroud to free up upward movement of the fan which you don't have to remove if you don't want. I unbolted the AC hoses secured to the car's body etc. Simply visualize the engine moving up fulcrumming about the rear trans mounts and loosen all impeding hardware to make raising the engine as effortless as possible. The more time you give yourself for this job, the happier you will be.
Good Luck,
George

[Hector]

I just might do that instead of hauling that big ass engine hoist around. The sucker weighs about 300 lbs!!! Good tip guys.
Hector


Hi Allan,
Can be done two ways really...what Martin did which is lift the motor up which I did partially as well with the exception that I dropped the engine cradle X-mbr because it was over the winter and I had my suspension off for rebuild anyway. Removing the X-mbr is more work but in some ways easier if that makes any sense :-) Brief explanation....remove all the stuff that Martin suggested...a good time to change the engine mounts as well. Push the motor up from underneath about 2 inches or as high as it will go. Shim the engine mounts up with small blocks of wood...this can be done with or without the puck style mounts present. Visualize all the stuff effected...I loosened the trans mount bolts for example and exhaust hanger mount prior to pushing the motor up. A tip is...the CG of the M-30 is not symmetric about the X-car centerline...put a generous block of wood under th "left side" of the aluminum oil pan and push up with a floor jack for equivalent raising of the engine from each engine mount. I suggest you first try it as Martin did....loosen the pan....drop it down onto the engine X-mbr and then stick your hand in between the pan and bottom of the engine block and remove the oil pick up from the oil pump which hits on the baffle inside the pan if trying to remove the pan with the pick up intact. This technique does take some dexterity but probably the best way to get the pan off and have access to the oil pump for removal. As you can probably surmise, this is not one of the more pleasant jobs to perform on these cars...a bit messy and awkward.
If you get into the job and get stuck, either post or send me an e-mail.
HTH,
George

[George M]

I used an engine hoist/cherry picker as well but the job can be done either way.
Hey Hector, did you use a breaker bar or impact to get your crank nut loose in front?
If you used an impact, which one did you use?
:-)
George

[Hector]

has been plagued with disapointment to disappointment. This whole effort was driven by spending the least amount of $$ to get this "once in a blue moon" job done. First, after listening to your suggestions, I decided to resort to the breaker bar method. When it came to order the special BMW tool to hold the vibration damper in place, no warehouse in the country had it available. The soonest I'd get one would be by August. So I said "forget that ****." Then I decided to follow your advice with the impact wrench. Luckily, a co-worker who owns a 2002 tti loan me a 1/2" drive twin-hammer impact wrench. I remember Jeff N saying that having one of these would make removing the nut easier.

So I go through a lil' rehearsal/test by just sticking the impact wrench in front of the vibration damper nut and the damn thing doesn't fit. That's ok because I also remember you guys saying that I might have to remove the radiatior. No big deal. So I removed the radiator and guess what? I still couldn't get the freakin' wrench in their because of the AC radiator. This was deppressing as I sure as hell wasn't going to dick around pulling that out!!

So recently I get a flash of genious and called this BMW dealer who somehow always manage to get those difficult parts that are hard to come by. So I call the parts guy and he tells me that there are only 3 of those special tools in the country to hold the harmonic vibration damper in place. Man, I almost pissed in my pants of the excitement!! So using this tool and the breaker bar was easy as pie. I rented a 3/4" drive rachet.
Hector


I used an engine hoist/cherry picker as well but the job can be done either way.
Hey Hector, did you use a breaker bar or impact to get your crank nut loose in front?
If you used an impact, which one did you use?
:-)
George

[George M]

hehehe...glad you got the motha off.
Sounds like a typical day of working on a BMW to me...lol.
George