::.. Brake job labor pricing request

[Qube]

Poor mileage, wonderful burning smell and very hot wheels...

Yep. Brakes are 'sticking'. Removed the suspect wheel and took apart the caliper. It seems to retract as it should. When I put it on though, I see that there is a lot of resistance when turning the rotor. Pumped the brakes a few times to normalize anything taking off the calipers and pads could have done. Same thing.

One thing I wanted to try is to bleed it to see if there is perhaps a collapsed line but hard with only one person. Instead, I took off the passenger side front wheel and did the same test with turning the rotor. There was noticably a LOT less resistance.

Unfortunately I am unable to conclude caliper or lines.

At this point, what time of labor and parts $$$ are we possibly looking at if taken to an indie?

[Derek A.]

2 hours labor + price of a reman or new caliper. Probably around $400 - when you include fluid. Or you can get one yourself and do it. It took me 15 minutes to replace the left rear caliper. Even was able to bleed myself. Total cost was about $50.

[Qube]

2 hours labor + price of a reman or new caliper. Probably around $400 - when you include fluid. Or you can get one yourself and do it. It took me 15 minutes to replace the left rear caliper. Even was able to bleed myself. Total cost was about $50.

I'd do it myself :) Just need to find a place to get a reman one here in Toronto in a day... *hint anyone?* :) Might be the seals... I'll need to get a buddy to help bleed it and check if it's the lines first :(

[Qube]

Turns out there's rust around the piston that kept it from retracting properly. A little cleaning, a little lube and all set.

[Jr ///M5]

Hi Qube,

I just had to order new calipers for my '91 318iS. Last Spring it started to bind up. I took it apart and cleaned it thinking it wouldn't last, but it did for about 9 months. Now the fluid is pouring out of it. I'm not a believer in rebuilding the caliper, I just don't trust it. It would hold for a while, but eventually the seals would let go because of the pitting in the bore. But there is a way to check if it's the caliper or the master cylinder causing the binding. Right after you drive it for a while, pull into your drive with the jack ready. Set the e brake, and jack it up and pull the wheel. If the wheel is binding badly, open the brake bleeder. If the wheel spins freely, it's the master cylinder, or a collapsed hose. If it doesn't spin freely, it's the caliper binding. Hope this helps some in the future.

Jr

[Kalevera]

Qube, once there's rust on the piston surface (contact area between the caliper housing itself and the piston), it's done. The piston has a chrome surface. Rust is indicative of scoring through that surface, and there may also be damage to the piston housing.

As you may know, brake fluid is highly corrosive stuff. Once it comes into contact with what surface has been scraped from the piston, you'll have the same problem all over again.

best, whit

[Qube]

Thanks Jr, for the testing technique. I didn't think about just opening the brake bleeder. I'll keep that in mind.

Whit, I agree it's postponing the inevitable. Given that Christmas is weeks away, I cannot afford to drop for a reman or new caliper just yet :|

[Kalevera]

Thanks Jr, for the testing technique. I didn't think about just opening the brake bleeder. I'll keep that in mind.

Whit, I agree it's postponing the inevitable. Given that Christmas is weeks away, I cannot afford to drop for a reman or new caliper just yet :|


Less than $60 at autozone + $50 or so core charge.


best, whit