A few Fuel Line Replacement Questions

[pwalk100]

I'm getting ready to replace the fuel line on my 93 525iT. I have a couple of questions for those who've done this before.

1) What is the size of the line...10mm?

2) To do the whole engine bay I'm estimating 2 meters of line. Is that a good guess.

3) As the fuel line goes into the rail, there is some type of fitting that is circular and has a band/strap type clamp. The area seems just a little wet occasionally. I've tried to tigthen the strap (philips screw adjuster) but I think something else in that fitting miht be failing. What does this part do, and does anyone know that part numbers I need to replace/fix this?

4) The vent line coming out of the front of the valve cover really needs replacement...it is very brittle. Is there a specification/diameter on this line? It certainly does not need to be FI line, just some type of fuel/vent line.

Thanks for any advice.

-Phil

[shogun]

I ordered 2.5 Meter for my V12 engine room, and that was enough. So I assume with 2 Meters you are fine.
Buy enough clamps.
Use the real OEM catalog to find the right sizes
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/select.do?PHPSESSID=2f576ced29477680ec938848d4d39e a1
and also www.autohausaz.com is a good help. Type in your car and year spec and that will guide you.
I ordered everything from Autohaus Arizona.

[Kalevera]

Buy more than two meters, because you'll invariably want to use pieces here and there (around the fuel filter, for instance), and it's handy to have some extra around.

I think you're talking about the fuel pressure regulator. Does the wetness smell like gas? It should. Don't worry about replacing it unless the car has a rough idle/other weird operating characteristics that indicate it needs to be fixed. More than likely, the hose clamp is bad, causing fuel pressure to bleed off and <temporary> wetness.

Those vent lines should be part numbered, fitted lines -- ie, the parts themselves should be purchased for their replacement, versus a length of generic hose. If oil is leaking past the fitting in the valve cover, or the fitting feels loose in the cover, replace it as well.


best, whit

[zuzuk212]

Why does one line corrode more than the other? ... return vs. supply ... I've noticed this on a number of different types of cars.

Ken

[shogun]

So which ones were more corroded?
I can imagine one thing: temperature of the fuel.
In the return line it is warmer than in the feed line, because it went trhough the complete hot engine room.
My car has even a return line which first goes thru the aircon line !! to cool the fuel down before it returns to the fuel tank.
Here a pic (that was before cleaning the engine room and replacing all hoses)
http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/119761/

[pwalk100]

I'll get a few meters+clamps and give it a whirl. Thanks for the advice.

-Phil

[Jon K]

I'll get a few meters+clamps and give it a whirl. Thanks for the advice.

-Phil

Whatever you do - MAKE SURE that if you're replacing an injection line that it is rated for fuel injection. The idiot at pepboys cut me a length of fuel line rated for carb'd cars (15 psi) or fuel return, and told me it was rated for injection. 70psi TORE through that bitch, I lost a bunch of fuel on the Newtown Bypass.