My MegaSquirt build up/install!

[Jon K]

hey guys. i received my MegaSquirt (MS) standalone ECU. This is where I intend to keep everyone updated on the install. This way, if any one has intention of doing aftermarket ECU work, they will have a basis to go on.

The MS ecu comes completely disassembled - bare PCBs (printed circuit boards) and seperated components that require soldering. You can, however, buy it assembled, for a nominal surcharge, but i find it more interesting to build it myself.

I purchased an Innovate LC-1 Wideband sensor and controller to interface to the standalone ECU. I also purchased the MS V3 unassembled ECU kit, plus 12' harness, plus lead bender, plus 2 oxygens sensor bungs, a DB9 straight through parallel cable, and I think that's it. Total was $530 shipped.

To fully understand what is to be discussed, you should probably check out www.megasquirt.info and read a little - that is, if you're interested. Otherwise, you can just look at the pictures for fun and ask questions if you car. Because I have to go pick up Jasens (Saj3n on here) car soon, I don't have time to start up the first build process, but here's a picture displaying the build quality of the main harness that DIYAutotune.com (where I purchased EVERYING) supplied.

http://e34.digital7.com/MegaSquirt/1.jpg

Check back FREQUENTLY (ie., i will be working on this pretty steadily so you could almost check back every 3 hrs or so i will more than likely added content). Maybe this will get stickied at the top, maybe not.

[bahnstormer]

haha rather than update the thread u should work more u wanker =]


lemme know if u need help and/or when u're gonna fire her up i wanna be
there to help ya tune

[Paul in NZ]

i for one will be watching with interest esp once you get it installed and start tuning.Dont assume we know ANYTHING.I have read that article you posted the other night and i had a look at the megasquirt site.I am esp interested in the use(or not) of the existing sensors switches and wiring.Do you intend to install te whole thing in the existing ecu location or will you split the install as described elsewhere

[genphreak]

i for one will be watching with interest esp once you get it installed and start tuning.Dont assume we know ANYTHING. I have read that article you posted the other night and i had a look at the megasquirt site.I am esp interested in the use(or not) of the existing sensors switches and wiring.Do you intend to install te whole thing in the existing ecu location or will you split the install as described elsewhereJon will want to be putting it in the CPU box as computers are not reliable working in engine bay heat conditions. (Inside the car it the only other option). If one could only take the Motronic unit out (hmmmm) it might fit in.

Great news Jon, you will have an avid readership for sure.

I haven't forked yet as to do it right one has to spend good money (heh but still 1/10 of a Motec or such equiv.) , but the MS has soooo much promise and the learning curve is a bonus for us. The real cool thing about this one is the Megasquirt project is mature enough not to frustrate one with imposibilities and developmental gotchas (we hope). If you are successful I can see the thing being a standard upgrade in a year as almost everyone here has to do their AFM and chip at some point- a Megasquirt (once documented for M20/M30/M50/52) will be a bit less and yield better than stock performance, let alone the features people like YOU want... Best of luck on the project, I look forward to doing the same sometime soon and adding my experiences :D Nick

[AllGo'n'Show]

Great I will be watching this closely.

I was looking into a Haltech E6K/X for my project I am planning out *Turbo 735iL* and didn't seem very feasible to be buying a Standalone for $1,500 that no one around here at home knew how to tune on the dyno.

I will definatly be watching this and asking questions!!! Keep us updated!

[Adnan]

Hi Jon,

Mr. Grippo had e-mailed me that he was working on a new version of MS using the newer Freescale controller, the HSX family with the X-gate co-processor. This one will have full ignition control as well as fuel management. He didn't say when it will be available, though.

I am planning on using this for my Austin-Healey 3000 since that twin-carb engine will be simply wonderful with EFI. Have you heard anything about the new design?

Regards,
Adnan

[Jon K]

Hi Jon,

Mr. Grippo had e-mailed me that he was working on a new version of MS using the newer Freescale controller, the HSX family with the X-gate co-processor. This one will have full ignition control as well as fuel management. He didn't say when it will be available, though.

I am planning on using this for my Austin-Healey 3000 since that twin-carb engine will be simply wonderful with EFI. Have you heard anything about the new design?

Regards,
Adnan

Couple things:

The unit you talk of Adnan is the USM (Ultra Mega Squirt) and has simply a faster processor and will POSSIBLY handle multiple coil packs for spark (YAY!!!! M50s have multiple coil packs). ANyway, its indefinite but getting there. Regardless, my unit is more than enough to run anything you throw at it, the newer unit is just "newer".

As far as Genphreaks response:

The unit is able to operate in the same conditions as a stock ECU. It is able to operate at 85 degrees celcius... which is HOT. I will be installing my unit either under my passenger seat (not likely since it needs a vacuum line to the ECU, but more likely in the glovebox area.

Just got back from picking up Saj3n's car. Bud if you're reading this your entire brake lights are out - made it interesting driving from philly lol.

Got back from Radio Shack - needed some .030 mm solder and a smaller tip for my 30w iron. Soldering now. Will take pics and inform you all.

I will reply as if I assume you guys don't know anything, that way I can iron some questions out before they're asked.

[Jon K]

Ok update:

I have finished building the MegaSquirt Stimulator. This device is optional but interfaces directly to the MegaSquirt ECU external of the car and allows you to simulate an engine by adding resistance to fake sensors. All the black tall thinks are pentiometers "pots" that are variable (read: knobs) that turn to change resistance or voltage. You can change a fake O2 read from 20:1 to 10:1 and see how the ECU will respond. In theory... you can tune based on this... in theory. Anyway, it's $60 or so, but well worth it because it can also help you tell whether or not the ECU is correct. And it also gives you practice soldering on the small PCB. Overall difficulty so far - 3 out of 10.

http://e34.digital7.com/MegaSquirt/2.jpg

Granted, I have done Xbox chips and such small soldering before, so it's not that difficult for me *yet*. People say the hardest part is the DB37 (the big serial port) to solder all the close knit pins on the underside... but honestly... it was the easiest part of it!

A lead bending tool helps A LOT. Its a piece of plastic that is gapped in different increments to help you bend the leads so that the resistors are the right size wide...

Now on to more fun stuff!

[winfred]

can't wait to get mine, just have too much **** going on:(

[Jon K]

Oh yeah, one more update. This is somewhat unrelated but I thought I'd share.

http://e34.digital7.com/MegaSquirt/cf1.jpg


Real carbon fiber :) I have more where that came from. That's for another project ;) but it's been sitting here laughing at me as I work.

[Jon K]

Ok guys, next update.

With the stimulator completed, I pressed on an managed to complete the "power" stage of the MegaSquirt ECU v3. This is basically the basic power supply for the unit. It is very crucial and because it's a testable step, it's a very good point to see if all this work is paying off.

So I tested for +5v across Pins 1 and 19, 20 and 32, etc as per the assembly guide... and all passed @ 4.99 volts! Wooo! A lot of people fail at this point, I guess I just lucked out.

Here's what this phase looks like as completed-

http://e34.digital7.com/MegaSquirt/5.jpg

Some of you might notice that the things with copper wound wires stand about 1/4" off the PCB. This is necessary because the copper wires are carrying voltage and might arc if they are too low to the PCB. The tall black thing is a surge protector that protects the ECU against voltage spikes (read: failed voltage regulator). The skinny guys you see in the upper left are capacitors for maintaining clean power. However, the one tall skinny yellow fellow up there is not a capacitor although you would think so based on the appearance. The upper upper left hand guy that is bolted to the aluminum strip is a mosfet voltage regulator as seen on modern Motherboards and audio amplifiers. They are ultimately what is responsible for making sure the voltage is what is to be expected. That guy has heatsink grease under it to conduct thermally.

[Jon K]

5:06AM - I don't sleep! So what!

Here we are with the MS 1 v3 CPU installed. The serial link circuitry is installed and configured. No hitches WHAT SO EVER as of yet. *knocks on wood*

I loaded MegaTune 225bxx and connected to the MegaSquirt from my laptop over the DB9 cable and logged into it successfully. Very neat.

http://e34.digital7.com/MegaSquirt/6.jpg

There you can see the 40 pin MS 1 V3 cpu installed as well as the VERY delicate crystal clock. The crystal is the silver cylinder mounted planar to the PCB. I will be using some silicone there to cushion that puppy.

[BigKriss]

Keep the updates coming Jon, I love it!

[Jon K]

Next update:

http://e34.digital7.com/MegaSquirt/7.jpg

Gettin' there. Here you see the other sensor input section done. You can't tell from this picture but the GM MAP sensor is hooked up underneath. The CPU is in as well as some other minute stuff - however the unit can now be tested for RPM, O2, and Throttle position. Pretty neat.

http://e34.digital7.com/MegaSquirt/8.jpg

the GM map sensor is on the bottom left. You can see the black nipple used for hooking up the vacuum line.

[AllGo'n'Show]

That looks fricking sweet :D Can't wait to see updates!

[Jon K]

Ok so this will be the last developmental stage because quite honestly I got impatient and pulled an all-nighter and finished her up at noon today. It's wired for all possible setup circuitry, I added jumpers on the underside of the board so that if I want to switch from a VR sensor to a Hall sensor its just a few jumper pulls instead of soldering. I think I might paint it black or polish it, unsure.

Anyway, here are some final stage pics.

http://e34.digital7.com/MegaSquirt/9.jpg

http://e34.digital7.com/MegaSquirt/10.jpg

In that picture you can see where the GM 2 Bar map sensor fitting is. The computer reads vacuum and boost up to 14.5 psi. Upgradeable MAP sensor to 3 and 4 bar, if you're completely insane.

Here are some screens that I captured from the data software. This is not hooked up to my engine, it is simulated by the "stimulator" which manipulates O2, TPS, RPM via pentiometers. Pretty sick.

http://e34.digital7.com/MegaSquirt/data1.jpg

and here is another.

http://e34.digital7.com/MegaSquirt/data2.jpg

[AllGo'n'Show]

That looks like a fun setup on the system now.

When you plan on hooking up all the sensors and such to the real car? Would love to see soem reallife screenshots.

[Jon K]

That looks like a fun setup on the system now.

When you plan on hooking up all the sensors and such to the real car? Would love to see soem reallife screenshots.

very soon.

[genphreak]

very soon.I guess we'll have to wait for another all-nighter!!! Well done Jon, the PCB finish and casing looks far better than I had thought it was. When I said beware the heat/no engine bay mounting, I know some do- that's why peeps say 85 degrees C is OK for the MS, but this would not help long-term reliability, the components on the PCB will actually go out of tolerance before this point (but the effects of which are probably hardly drastic). However the Engine bay computer compartment in the E34 would probably still get this hot even with its fan blowing on a hot day... under the hood in an E34 is hotter than in a 'more open older' car setup: It has been effectively sealed and only gets its cool air flow from the radiator, so it starts at 60 odd degrees plus at the front and then hits the manifold... :D no wonder the plastic clips and plugs get as brittle as they do!

Of course this is good for engine efficiency but it is not good for electronics, so I'm glad you are putting it inside. I guess its a matter of keeping the Motronic module in anwyay so one can run the dash and all our beloved Bimmer features... Guten Schlofeen, Herr Jon!

[Jon K]

Ok I made a couple quick videos. In the first video what ou are seeing is the "stimulator", which is attached throught DB37 port on the ECU. This stimulator does just that - it stimulates the ECU sensors basically mocking an engine. The flashing lights are injector bank 1 and 2 and are flashing constant but at varying speed as I manipulate the RPM, the camera frame rate was too slow to pick it up so sometimes they go out. The solid LED is the fuel pump status LED.


Video 1: Right click save as (http://e34.digital7.com/MegaSquirt/StimVid.avi)

The 2nd video is one of the front side of the ECU that will be visible when the glovebox is open. The LED flashing indicates injector pulse width, just to give you a general idea what stage your fuel system is in at any given time. The middle LED doesn't light up until in the car - that LED, when lit indicates the car is in cold-start enrichment mode. This is great because you have a LED to indicate when the car is up to temperature and switched over to ordinary fuel/timing maps. The 3rd LED didn't light because I didn't turn the throttle position sensor knob, but it would display an LED whenever you are applying throttle. This helps you quickly diagnose if the ECU is seeing the TPS and what the injectors are doing as the TPS is applied.

Video 2: Right click save as (http://e34.digital7.com/MegaSquirt/StimVid2.avi)

[genphreak]

Wow, its got bling bitz too! Nice touch, their attention to status indicators will be handy in situ (as well as in test). Great vids Jon- keep up the good work, and thanks for bringing us all along on the ride. :) Nick

[Jon K]

That's what the community is for. Hopefully it'll motivate people to try new stuff out too!

[Jon K]

One more modification before bed.

I have an Innovate LC1 wideband controller but opted not to get the XD1 programmer/display because its $250 for a volt meter with a push button and an LED. So, I was going to make a small panel somewhere with the LC1 push button and seperate LED b ut I couldn't think of anywhere that looked like it belonged there. Then I decided to do this.

http://e34.digital7.com/MegaSquirt/LC1mod.jpg

Previously, there was no momentary button there and there were only the 3 5mm LEDs. Now a momentary swtich which allows for wideband oxygen snesor re-calibration and the 3mm red LED in order to retrieve LC1 error codes.

[bahnstormer]

all the led's are red?

[632 Regal]

patiently waiting in the background

[Martin in Bellevue]

The DynoTune.com led gauge for the LC-1 could be a good option for your application. I moved the screen to a project box with the status led & reset momentary contact button.
http://www.bimmer.info/bmw/martin/widebandGauge.jpg
They are $69 here, http://www.dynotunenitrous.com/store/scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=129
I can pull a screen shot of the lc-1 output config for this gauge if needed.
So, I am curious if the MegaSquirt system can be made to fire injectors individually, instead of batch fired. Any idea?

[Jon K]

all the led's are red?


Playing with fire...

[Jon K]

The DynoTune.com led gauge for the LC-1 could be a good option for your application. I moved the screen to a project box with the status led & reset momentary contact button.
http://www.bimmer.info/bmw/martin/widebandGauge.jpg
They are $69 here, http://www.dynotunenitrous.com/store/scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=129
I can pull a screen shot of the lc-1 output config for this gauge if needed.
So, I am curious if the MegaSquirt system can be made to fire injectors individually, instead of batch fired. Any idea?

Martin, I've got a 2 1/16" AFR gauge. I just needed somewhere to mount the LED and button.

[Jon K]

So guys, i've been struggling trying to determine how to handle RPM input from my stock ECU/Motor into the MegaSquirt ecu. Real quick run down:

Two types of RPM sensors:

1) VR signal - AC current, two wires
2) Hall Effect Sensor - DC current - 1 wire

The output from the ECU to the tach is 1 wire, implying a hall effect sensor... more on that later.

I had no idea what type of sensor the crank position sensor was - no one could help me. I am sort of pioneering this setup too, so I thought I hit a large brick wall that would lead to me testing the sensor blindly. You see, the MegaSquirt has both circuits to handle either the VR (ac) or Hall (dc) current. However, you need to jumper a few things in order to select between the two. So, if I had jumpered Hall effect and it were VR, i would more than likely fry some components (easily obtainable, however, just annoying).

Then my good friend Scott H provided me with a PDF:

http://e34.digital7.com/MegaSquirt/rpm.jpg

Here you see, 67 and 68 are CLEARLY identified as AC current which explicitly describes a VR circuit! Then ther eis the lonely tachometer lead, which i was going to try, but it turns out its a square wave signal. So, moral of the story is... thanks HUGELy to Scott H for supplying me with great info. And now the project continues.

This weekend I will get this welded into my x-pipe on my exhaust:

http://e34.digital7.com/MegaSquirt/o2.jpg

it is a secondary oxygen sensor bung/fitting so i can install my wideband sensor.

the wideband controller looks like this:

http://e34.digital7.com/MegaSquirt/wideband.jpg

This is really fun, or at least I think so!

[misfortune]

I find this largely useless (I barely own an e34), but its still neat. We messsed with square wave stuff in Electric Network Analysis.

[Jon K]

others may fine it useful

[misfortune]

others may fine it useful

http://img367.imageshack.us/img367/5738/owlorly5se.th.jpg

YES I AGREE WITH YOU JONK OK!?

enjoy the free bumps

[Martin in Bellevue]

...the wideband controller looks like this:

http://e34.digital7.com/MegaSquirt/wideband.jpg

This is really fun, or at least I think so!

You might be better served by replacing the stock O2 sensor with the wideband sensor. The stock bung is in an ideal spot. The LC-1 has a second programmable output to feed the ecu or a gauge. Thinking down the road, you prolly won't have much use for that stock sensor once familiar with the LC-1 magic.
According to the innovate forum, extending the wires from the wideband sensor can degrade the signal, so Jeff N & I both ended up installing the LC-1's to the lower frame rail, as recommended. I decided against mounting it up the pass side firewall to avoid the exhaust heat.

[misfortune]

You might be better served by replacing the stock O2 sensor with the wideband sensor. The stock bung is in an ideal spot. The LC-1 has a second programmable output to feed the ecu or a gauge. Thinking down the road, you prolly won't have much use for that stock sensor once familiar with the LC-1 magic.
According to the innovate forum, extending the wires from the wideband sensor can degrade the signal, so Jeff N & I both ended up installing the LC-1's to the lower frame rail, as recommended. I decided against mounting it up the pass side firewall to avoid the exhaust heat.

Martin, did you turbo your 535i? What project did you undertake to gain such knowledge?

[Martin in Bellevue]

Martin, did you turbo your 535i? What project did you undertake to gain such knowledge?
I've got no forced induction for my m30, yet.
I installed the Innovate LC-1 wideband kit as a tuning device. I used it to tune the split second psc-001 box, with an internal map sensor, to remove the stock air flow meter.

[BigKriss]

Jon, does the M50 have a knock sensor, if not are you going to install one?

[Jon K]

You might be better served by replacing the stock O2 sensor with the wideband sensor. The stock bung is in an ideal spot. The LC-1 has a second programmable output to feed the ecu or a gauge. Thinking down the road, you prolly won't have much use for that stock sensor once familiar with the LC-1 magic.
According to the innovate forum, extending the wires from the wideband sensor can degrade the signal, so Jeff N & I both ended up installing the LC-1's to the lower frame rail, as recommended. I decided against mounting it up the pass side firewall to avoid the exhaust heat.

Well, I need one analog out for my ecu (megasquirt) and the other analog out for my AFR display. So I don't have another analog out to simulate a narrowband to the stock ecu. So I have to install it additionally. Do you have pics of where you mounted yours?

[Martin in Bellevue]

Well, I need one analog out for my ecu (megasquirt) and the other analog out for my AFR display. So I don't have another analog out to simulate a narrowband to the stock ecu. So I have to install it additionally. Do you have pics of where you mounted yours?
There are no pictures of my LC-1 mount. The thing is braced against the frame reail & metal lines on the port side, close to where the stock O2 sensor lines were. I drew the lines up the firewall, along the harness to the ebox. The ebox has a couple different knockouts for running a bound set of lines into the cabin for the gauge.
If you have one of those narrowband gauges, like my split second gauge, it could share the LC-1 output to the motronic dme. Jeff is using my split second disco lights on his LC-1. It doesn't provide specific air fuel ratio's, but it does show referential rich & lean values, which might be good enough when monitoring things. When tuning, you'd have the laptop cracked open for the megasquirt monitoring anyway. Specific afr's can be shown on the laptop.

[Jon K]

So you're saying install the WB in the stock fitting. Use one of the analog outs and set it up as a "narrowband 0 - 1v" signal and feed it to the stock ecu/incabin afr gauge. Then use the other analog out as a "wideband 0 - 5v" to my new ECU?

What'd you do with the stock sensor? If you unplug it won't you get a CEL?

[Martin in Bellevue]

So you're saying install the WB in the stock fitting. Use one of the analog outs and set it up as a "narrowband 0 - 1v" signal and feed it to the stock ecu/incabin afr gauge. Then use the other analog out as a "wideband 0 - 5v" to my new ECU?

What'd you do with the stock sensor? If you unplug it won't you get a CEL?
I'm suggesting share the signal to the narrowband gauge with the motronic feed. This is essentially how the narrowband O2 signal works anyway, as they are independently powered & merely sense the signal voltage.

[bahnstormer]

What'd you do with the stock sensor? If you unplug it won't you get a CEL?

if u send the ECU the signal it wants all you need to do is complete the circuit to the oem 'meter. then when the compy does its circuit check it'll see a complete one and call it a day

[Jon K]

if u send the ECU the signal it wants all you need to do is complete the circuit to the oem 'meter. then when the compy does its circuit check it'll see a complete one and call it a day


No. If you unhook the stock narrowband O2 sensor, the heating relay will send no resistance at the dme and I am wondering, even though there is a O2 signal (from the wideband to the stock ecu) whether or not the ECU cares if the heater relay/circuit is open or not. The LC-1 does it's own heating of the wideband sensory.. this is where I see the conflict.

[Martin in Bellevue]

No. If you unhook the stock narrowband O2 sensor, the heating relay will send no resistance at the dme and I am wondering, even though there is a O2 signal (from the wideband to the stock ecu) whether or not the ECU cares if the heater relay/circuit is open or not. The LC-1 does it's own heating of the wideband sensory.. this is where I see the conflict.
Sorry, my bad. The 535's don't seem to have a problem with the narrowband sensor's heater disconnected.

[Jon K]

although this doesn't look like much, it's big progress.

Took out the stock ECU/ABS box (pain in the ass!) and ran my 12' long megasquirt harness through the grommet in the firewall and into the sealed box. This is where the new ECU is going to sleep.

http://e34.digital7.com/MegaSquirt/11.jpg

Thanks alan for the ATE Super Blue race brake fluid! Gonna change it soon!

[genphreak]

although this doesn't look like much, it's big progress. Took out the stock ECU/ABS box (pain in the ass!) and ran my 12' long megasquirt harness through the grommet in the firewall and into the sealed box. This is where the new ECU is going to sleep.Hey Jon, great. One of the more tedious parts is now done: How was your ebox fan? I have never been able to get to it... and it makes some noise every now and then. Any idea if it would be hard to change?

On a right hand drive a dash-mounted 'Squirt can go behind the 'coinholder' if it has one, ie under the gauges, so long as you run a DB9 cable to a good access location (console perhaps- along with any chosen status displays). I particularly like the dot matrix display (http://www.bgsoflex.com/mv/megaview.html) available for the 'Squirt, no doubt you have your eye on that- having up to date status on all sensory info would be great if you ever encounter a problem on the road.

But its nice in the glovebox too, all shiny and ready for taking with you when u leave the car downtown for extended periods :D.

Thing for me is, for doing it on the later M30 (motronic 1.3), it seems a bit tougher as the VR sensor signal (M30 has a 60-2 timing wheel) needs a hardware or software mod to make it compatible with the current squirt's 'HCS12' trigger input (emulating a reluctance/hall trigger from a distributor). This is a pain as I probably also have to add 3 coil packs. People are workig on this elsewhere too, but I can't see anyone posting much info re M30s running Motronic 1.3; which is why the SplitSec piggyback (PSC-0001) is such a pratical way of getting rid of the AFM.

Also, I was thinking if I go this far I might make a Motronic ECU connector converter (so one could swap the Squirt in a more or less plug and play fashion- a few extra wires run through another plug for some additional inputs)... just musing tho, not doing. :( Have fun Jon!

Still watching with interest... just wondering tho- how does the factory 745 Motronic deal with the boost that it can't measure?

:) Nick

[Bill R.]

knock sensor and a map sensor, the vacum line for the map sensor goes straight to the dme on it.






Hey Jon, great. One of the more tedious parts is now done: How was your ebox fan? I have never been able to get to it... and it makes some noise every now and then. Any idea if it would be hard to change?

On a right hand drive a dash-mounted 'Squirt can go behind the 'coinholder' if it has one, ie under the gauges, so long as you run a DB9 cable to a good access location (console perhaps- along with any chosen status displays). I particularly like the dot matrix display (http://www.bgsoflex.com/mv/megaview.html) available for the 'Squirt, no doubt you have your eye on that- having up to date status on all sensory info would be great if you ever encounter a problem on the road.

But its nice in the glovebox too, all shiny and ready for taking with you when u leave the car downtown for extended periods :D.

Thing for me is, for doing it on the later M30 (motronic 1.3), it seems a bit tougher as the VR sensor signal (M30 has a 60-2 timing wheel) needs a hardware or software mod to make it compatible with the current squirt's 'HCS12' trigger input (emulating a reluctance/hall trigger from a distributor). This is a pain as I probably also have to add 3 coil packs. People are workig on this elsewhere too, but I can't see anyone posting much info re M30s running Motronic 1.3; which is why the SplitSec piggyback (PSC-0001) is such a pratical way of getting rid of the AFM.

Also, I was thinking if I go this far I might make a Motronic ECU connector converter (so one could swap the Squirt in a more or less plug and play fashion- a few extra wires run through another plug for some additional inputs)... just musing tho, not doing. :( Have fun Jon!

Still watching with interest... just wondering tho- how does the factory 745 Motronic deal with the boost that it can't measure?

:) Nick

[genphreak]

knock sensor and a map sensor, the vacum line for the map sensor goes straight to the dme on it.Ahhh yes, explains it. But still an AFM is used is it not? Different ECU though... hmmm. I wonder if the 745 ECU would work on the e34 (w turbo)... if one had the same pistons and cam perhaps it would. I wish I could find out the specs of the 745 cam. Beetos' turbo M30 uses a complete 745 block but i am hoping to add a smaller turbo so I can avoid changing the pistons, injectors or block (I know this sounds like a lame thing, but **perhaps** a thicker headgasket will drop the compression just enough to make it safe, all I want is a little boost, perhaps 8lbs or so), but am prepared to stick with 98RON fuels. If so, maybe a 745 ECU would do / could be a neater way to wire it all in, but I do want the AFM gone. (Off to research it... Tx Bill!) :) Nick

[Jon K]

Updateeeeeeee...

So I dove into the ECU wiring tonight. I didn't really expect to get that very far... but I gave it a go anyway. Tonight I wired in +12vdc, ground, tapped throttle position sensor, coolant temp sensor, and intake air temp sensors, but had an issue. Nothing serious, but the MS ecu recognizes the throttle position at 9% when at rest and only 88% when wide open... so, I need to figure that out. Also, the coolant temp sensor is doing weird things. But anyway...

http://e34.digital7.com/MegaSquirt/12.jpg

http://e34.digital7.com/MegaSquirt/13.jpg

http://e34.digital7.com/MegaSquirt/14.jpg

Those are only about 30% of the amount of wires that will be running around. Not for the faint of heart.

[Jon K]

ok update time:

Today I got my exhaust fitting welded in and decided I would install the Innovate LC-1 wideband oxygen sensor/controller.

I wasn't sure exactly how I would install the controller, as yes, it is shielded from the elements as it is encased in thick plastic/rubber, but it didn't make me feel good knowing my $200 sensitive electrical device was to be mounted to my frame rail. So, I talked with Scott H and he mentioned a square pass-through for wires from the transmission. I took a look and although I didn't have that pass-thru, i did have a blank that I could punch out :)

here is everything taken apart:
http://e34.digital7.com/MegaSquirt/16.jpg

here you see the harness FROM the actual sensor up to the controller. The harness is only about 2.5' long, so there was no way of running the harness very far. But, directly up worked:

http://e34.digital7.com/MegaSquirt/17.jpg

All buttoned up (minus the shifter panel):

http://e34.digital7.com/MegaSquirt/18.jpg

[Jon K]

So with the harness from the sensor to the controller managed, i now needed to run the harness from the controller to the new ecu. I decided to follow up the center console, through the radio area (which I am oh so familiar with) and through the grommet I modified in the firewall, which leads to the ECU box on the other side of the firewall. Here is a quick picture of that:

http://e34.digital7.com/MegaSquirt/19.jpg

You can see the main harness for the MegaSquirt ECU (the big fat harness), then you see a black and blue/white wire leading to a molex connector - thats the LED status light/momentary reset button for my LC1 which is mounted in the MegaSquirt housing. You can just barely see it, but right above/behind the glovebox pivot bar ther eis a small maybe 3/8" harness that houses 7 wires - that's the LC1 harness going up to the firewall grommet.

Here is where everything pops out of:

http://e34.digital7.com/MegaSquirt/20.jpg

It is really quite simple - as you can see.

All joking aside, I am very thankful to the engineers at BMW. When they assembled the car and needed to ground the stock ECU and all ancillaries, they decided to install a 2 post ground post that is not only the best ground source, but also the cleanest looking way of installing an aftermarket ANYTHING in the car. Here is a picture of what I am talking about:

http://e34.digital7.com/MegaSquirt/21.jpg

They provided the 2 posts there, having used only one from the factory (the larger 3/8" sizes black ground. The other ones are mine.

[Jon K]

After all this labor, the only thing I have gained so far is to monitor my AFR (lol). Although this sounds like little fruit for much work, it's perhaps the most important detail of the entire setup. So, here it is in all its glory - the Innovate LogWorks2 package monitoring my air-to-fuel ratio real time at idle.

http://e34.digital7.com/MegaSquirt/22.jpg

Now I wait for my GM coolant temp sensors and GM open-element intake air temperature sensors to come in. Then we move on to the cool stuff :)

[pundit]

All I can say is, if you sell your car with all these mods, I hope the next owner is going to be capable of deciphering all this. I can just see him taking it to the local 'stealer' and asking for a tune up. I'd like to see the look on their faces! :D

[Jon K]

I was thinking about going to the dealer to have them take a look at my fuel consumption issue.

[pyro]

that would be halarious

[Jon K]

ok im outside in my car...idling.

http://e34.digital7.com/MegaSquirt/idle.jpg

That = good.

eminem on stereo good stuff. ok bye.

[pyro]

update?