First Time Rear Brake Job

[Jersey General]

First, I used the search engine, but I still have a question. :) My intent was to change the rear pads last weekend, and check the front brakes next weekend. The driver side went very smoothly. Every thing came off easy. Every thing went on easily.(only changing pads) The piston retracked with no problems. When I got to the passenger side the piston would not retrack. I did not use the bleeder screw. I opened the master cylinder cap. This has worked on my Nissan. How can I tell it the caliper is really stuck? Do I have to use the bleeder screw? I have never bled brakes before, so it makes me nervous. I was considreing purchasing the BMP pressure bleeder before I continue. If the caliper is really stuck is this something that can be fixed, or do i need to buy another caliper.

[Hallmark]

There should be no impedement that would make the passenger side any harder than the drivers side. I normally use a big "C" clamp to press in the calipers. Be sure there is no dirt or other material in the rubber boot around the piston (don't clean it out with anything that might rip the rubber boot). Make sure there is room for the excess fluid in the master cylindar and then press it in. It shouldn't be easy enough to press in by hand, you will almost certainly need some sort of mechanical force. I use the old disc pad still clipped into the cylindar as a surface to push on. This helps keep the cylindar lined up square to the caliper. You don't want to open the bleed screw.

The pressure bleeder works really well.

[632 Regal]

your using a big C clamp and it wont compress? If it wont move its bad, no you dont need to remove the bleeder screw or cap.

is it stuck on the worn ridge or what? worn ridge means rotors are trashed too.
(all full of good news huh :D )

If you replace the caliper then you need to pressure bleed the system or you will have all kinds of ABS braking issues.

[Jersey General]

The driver side did require some force, but I used to lift weights when I was younger. I used a flat piece of wood and brute strength. The passenger side wouldn't budge.

[Jersey General]

There was a ridge on the rotor. It couldn't have been more than 1 mm. What should I expect to pay for the caliper?

[632 Regal]

unless your rich youll want to rebuild it, new ones are 200+
seal kits are like 40ish

did you try a big screw driver to pry the pad on both sides?

[Jersey General]

I had no problems getting the pads off.

[Jersey General]

So if I go with a seal kit do I need any special tools?

[632 Regal]

think you need an air compressor to get the piston out, I believe theres a write up on Brunos site...

book mark this:

http://www.bmwe34.net/E34main.htm

[Rus]

The driver side did require some force, but I used to lift weights when I was younger. I used a flat piece of wood and brute strength. The passenger side wouldn't budge.

Are you still trying to use your strength? I just did my rear rotors and pads and I used a clamp on both sides. I'd recommend buying a C-clamp for this job. Also, if your calipers is frozen, you'd have much less wear on the pads on that side of the car because the piston is stuck. Your responses seem to indicate that it functioned normally. Hope this helps.

[Anton CH.]

I have a working set of rear calipers I can sell to you. And no you don't need a pressure bleeder to change calipers. I changed all four calipers without any problems.

[moots]

think you need an air compressor to get the piston out, I believe theres a write up on Brunos site...

book mark this:

http://www.bmwe34.net/E34main.htm

if you don't have an air compressor,you can remove the piston by pressing on the brakes.....gently and in small increments,with the pads removed of crs.a second person to monitor the piston travel helps.......this is thru my own experience...