Panel Underneath Steeing Wheel Removal

[GoldenEagleFan]

What a wonderful Forum. I have learned much about my new car in the last week and fixed a few nagging items thanks to the info here. I have the infamous brake circuit warning and want to replace my switch. I've removed the screws holding the panel underneath the steering wheel but for the life of me can't figure out how to get it out. Is it attached somehow to the front panel beneath the steering whell with invisible clips? I've removed the screws attacheing to this panel but still no luck.

94 525i, 155,000 miles.

[mattyb]

welcome! i tried the same thing a while ago. i gently prised the section from the steering column that seemed to be holding it in. the bottom plastic sections on the column came free and the section came out. i guess u just gotta be careful or maybe someone else knows the secret that makes it just bloody easy. was not too hard though.

tell us a bit about yourself and ur car. plus pics would be great!

[GoldenEagleFan]

As soon as I can get a picture I'll post.

Just want to check. Brake lights do not work with ignition off. Ignition on they work. Sometimes first tap on brakes has Brake Light Circuit Warning, sometime days. Change the Brake Switch or something else?

[mattyb]

give it a couple of days maybe and the experts will have shown up with no doubt the answer to the problem. have u done a search yet? most problems allready have the answer allready somewhere in a thread, just type some key words into the search feature and see what comes up. if u do this first and find nothing al least the others will see that u have done it and u will find the response will be a bit warmer than if u havent.

[Jay 535i]

I had the same thing last month. New brake switch fixed it.

[GoldenEagleFan]

Thanks, I did search, thought it was based on tuning to an AM radio station and hearing the "pop"everytime I stepped on the brakes. Noticed just now that a very light tap gets lots of static, not lights and the warning comes on.

Now if I can only figure out how to get that panel off without hacking anything up.

I am assuming replacing the switch will allow the brake lights to work without a key in the ignition, or is there something unique about the E34?

[Russell]

a couple of years ago. I ended up breaking the panel and had to reglue it. However, I think You also need to remove the wood trim covers on each side of the steering column. Then remove the foam knee pads under the steering wheel which frees up the top edge of the panel. I also think you need to remove the trim carpet on the console. There may be a sensor or chime connected to the trim panel as well.

Not sure where I found that out. Think it was the archives. Also section 513-4 of the Bentley manual. Get it if you do not have it.


What a wonderful Forum. I have learned much about my new car in the last week and fixed a few nagging items thanks to the info here. I have the infamous brake circuit warning and want to replace my switch. I've removed the screws holding the panel underneath the steering wheel but for the life of me can't figure out how to get it out. Is it attached somehow to the front panel beneath the steering whell with invisible clips? I've removed the screws attacheing to this panel but still no luck.

94 525i, 155,000 miles.

[Kalevera]

It's going to be tough to get because there's not enough clearance between the knee bolster and the interior side of the firewall/footwell area. Removing it without pulling the knee bolster is further complicated by the ducting that runs out of the heater box to the footwell vents, conveniently located in the black plastic trim. You'll also have a gong (electric speaker, two wiring harness connectors if your car has anything like an OBC) to deal with. So, as Russell said, it'll be much easier to remove (and reinstall!) if the knee bolster is out of the way.

You might also want to glance over the bulb sockets and the trunk lid wiring harness to confirm that there is no serious corrosion in the former and no cracking of the wiring in the latter. Both are common problems (but corrosion seems more applicable to the E30 what with the shitty tail light gaskets) and may potentially cause this issue.

Do a search for Bill R's dash module removal procedure; it may be in the archives. It details how to remove the bolster. In short, the thing is held in by about nine self tapping screws that run into speed nuts (behind the wood trim, gently pry it out; one on the outboard side of the bolster, usually covered by a trim-colored plastic nub; two behind the removable plastic trim sliver immediately next to the radio and HVAC controls; two at the bottom of the knee bolster itself, by the leading edge of the black plastic trim that you're trying to remove). Then, the bolster itself is held in place by four M8 bolts or something around that size.

Once that's off, you'll have no problem getting the black trim out (or correctly reinstalling it) ;)

best, whit

[Qsilver7]

I am assuming replacing the switch will allow the brake lights to work without a key in the ignition, or is there something unique about the E34?
No, there is nothing unique about your e34...all BMWs that I know of require the ignition to be on before the brake lights work. (my 85 E30; 91 E32; 95 E34; and 97 E38 all did/do this) Sorry it took so long for someone to answer that question for you. ;)

[Visions]

Remove the wood trim and you will see screws,,, After that take the knee kick panel off--thats the metal panel with alot of wires going to it... let hang loose and move out of your way... the hard part for me was the trim under that cause I had such a hard time figuring out how to get it loose on the right side---but now that I have done it,,,its easy... remove the screws and on the right side there is another screw on the right side down lower... the side and the panel overlap...this is where the vents are... just take out the screw and pull it apart... from there you will easily see the switch... break the switch to get it out...

You'll get it...

[GoldenEagleFan]

Thanks for all of the input. The one that that had me confused for a couple of minutes is the wood trim pieces. Sat in my car staring at the dash and didn't see any wood. Ah ha.....I have the base model with plastic vinyl. Popped those off, got the knee pad out of the way, the bottom panel underneath the steering wheel was easy to remove at this point. Popped out the switch, took it apart and cleaned the contacts per another link, put it all back together and viola! Nice solid pop on the AM station and no more brake light circuit warning. Thanks for all the good input.

I've got a new brake light switch on order and next time this one starts acting up I'll just replace it.

By the way, I was surprised the ignition needed to be on for the brake lights to work. Every other car I've had didn't need this.

So far due to this sight I have:

1) Confirmed I will need an AC charge. Compressor kicks it , runs for 20 seconds, then off for 20, then on again...lots of bubbles in the sight glass. I am hoping the shop will recharge it. Wiscinsin seems to be very picky about leaks, but I am hoping that since there is still some refrigerant they will charge it.

2) Took apart the dome light and cleaned the contacts so the middle light comes on when the door opens.

3) Replaced numerous trim pieces correctly.

4) Raised car "correctly" and inspected all links, ball joints, steering, etc...

5) Discovered the cd changer connection, now looking for a good changer at the right price.

6) Saved $40 by buying the cd adaptor from Walmart instead of the $50 Belkin FM transmitter from Best Buy to run my Dell MP3, Sounds great!

7) Repaced the outside mirror glass without breaking anything.

8) Repaired both headrest so they move for only $3.00 for fuel line and four clamps.

Thanks for all the help. Love my car.

I have owened an 81 Rabbit Wolfsburg (20,000 miles), 83 GTI (95,000 miles), 84 Audi 4000S (250,000 miles), then married and Chrysler Minivan (2) ugggg, Thunderbird V8, head gasket at 120,000, trashed engine. Now have a 2000 Catera (zigging and zagging), Jeep Grand Cherokee (for pulling my 73 Whaler), and now back to my love of German cars. Looking forward to see how reliable and long lasting it is. I am finding it very easy to work on and a lot of fun to drive.

[Kalevera]

You probably know this already, but it's illegal for a shop to knowingly recharge a leaking A/C system. I think the EPA fine is somewhere in the few hundred thousand dollar range. I know that there are plenty of unethical people out there willing to look the other way, but I hope that you are responsible enough to not allow this kind of wanton environmental destruction.

best, whit

[Visions]

I have a 1992 cd changer... 14 pin... I bought it and never used it because whoever put in my stereo butched the wiring and I didn't look before I bought it and I don't feel like fixing it... I paid $50 + shipping.... the same price to you if you want it... One thing... the cover door is off because a pin is missing and part of the hinge is broken... you could fix it if you feel like playing with it or just leave it off cause it's not needed,,, that's how I bought it... I'll guarantee that it works... if it doesn't just ship it back and I will refund your money minus shipping... if your harness is the same it's just plug and play.... 14 pin... if interested i will give you my ebay name so you can check out my ratings... payment would be paypal...

[632 Regal]

wow
but I hope that you are responsible enough to not allow this kind of wanton environmental destruction.

best, whit

[Bill R.]

section 609 of the epa clean air act. I have heard that before and worked in the commercial ac industry right when these regs were being passed and i don't believe that i've ever seen that anywhere in the text of the document. Individual states have different requirements but the federal epa rules are where i've read and reread on this. Here's a link to the epa question and answer section with that very question on it. (http://www.epa.gov/ozone/title6/609/recharge.html#q3)

Edit, as a side note there is only a finite amount of r12 in the US and its going to get used up eventually anyway so the amount thats going to go into the atmosphere is already calculated. I wouldn't really call that wanton environmental destruction since once its gone its gone.. I'd be much more concerned about the other 60 some odd countries who did not agree to stop production of r12 since they claimed it would be an undue hardship on third world countries not to have it. Such as India and Mexico, you can see some of the production data here
(http://www.multilateralfund.org/files/evaluation/3707.pdf)




You probably know this already, but it's illegal for a shop to knowingly recharge a leaking A/C system. I think the EPA fine is somewhere in the few hundred thousand dollar range. I know that there are plenty of unethical people out there willing to look the other way, but I hope that you are responsible enough to not allow this kind of wanton environmental destruction.

best, whit

[Kalevera]

wow

Hey Bidoli -- you're messing up me being a hard ass -- cut it out!!

[Kalevera]

Bill, you're correct, as always. According to MACS, I committed consumer fraud by suggesting that the leak had to be fixed before the system could be charged, given that there are no regulations in the guy's locality.

But I *know* I've read this somewhere, in imaca literature or perhaps via the wonderful Ohio EPA.

best, whit