control arms nauseum

[romeox929]

I know the know hows to remove the ball joints, but how to put them back on without the new ball joint spinning trying to tighten it? Seems a lot of downforce is needed to fully meet the torque settings required. help

[genphreak]

I know the know hows to remove the ball joints, but how to put them back on without the new ball joint spinning trying to tighten it? Seems a lot of downforce is needed to fully meet the torque settings required. helpBigKriss and I just jack up the steering arm so it gradually pressures the joint with the weight of the car (just enough). Worked fine. Be careful not to lift the car off the jack stands and/or otherwise make it fall on you, a phat e34 and phlatter driver makes for a definate no-show on race day mate... :) Nick

ps- oh and be creful with your dust boots, sometimes they don't spin on the joint (I oiled mine with 2 drops of sewing machine oil and made sure they did- one of our arms wanted to rip the boot apart when the ball-joint's was twisted within the arm (as it does in operation), a contaminated joint would only have lasted lasted a 6 months on the car.. wrecking- so a boot means you will be doing it again be4 very long. :) Nick

[romeox929]

BigKriss and I just jack up the steering arm so it gradually pressures the joint with the weight of the car (just enough). Worked fine. Be careful not to lift the car off the jack stands adn/or otherwise make it fall on you, phat e34 and phlatter driver makes for a definate no-show on race day mate... :) Nick

which point on the car did you guys meet the steering arm to? TIA!

[genphreak]

which point on the car did you guys meet the steering arm to? TIA!

Strut
V
Thrust Arm
V
Steering Arm
V
Lower Control Arm
V
Jack

First nut to torque up was the LCA- that one is impossible to get to when you have the steering arm mounted up to the strut (the LCA thread is obscured by the strut as it sticks up through it). The three (3) mounting nuts torque to 83Nm (& be sure to use Nyloc on all the steering arm nuts, CA nuts inc.)). The CA nuts themselves are 83 or 110Nm, I can't remember sorry and should be self locking Nyloc-types also.

[romeox929]

Strut
V
Thrust Arm
V
Steering Arm
V
Lower Control Arm
V
Jack

First nut to torque up was the LCA- that one is impossible to get to when you have the steering arm mounted up to the strut (the LCA thread is obscured by the strut as it sticks up through it). The three (3) mounting nuts torque to 83Nm (& be sure to use Nyloc on all the steering arm nuts, CA nuts inc.)). The CA nuts themselves are 83 or 110Nm, I can't remember sorry and should be self locking Nyloc-types also.

not exactly the info I was looking for because I have the bentley manual. So how do you torque the LCA if it's impossible? thrust arm? sorry if I'm being difficult, but I can't justify going to the mechanic to pay him something I can do for free. again, thanks

[genphreak]

not exactly the info I was looking for because I have the bentley manual. So how do you torque the LCA if it's impossible? thrust arm? sorry if I'm being difficult, but I can't justify going to the mechanic to pay him something I can do for free. again, thankswoops, I didn't make this clear- do not mount the steering arm plate to the strut before torquing the LCA nut- thus *not* obscuring the nut ;)

[romeox929]

so, which part of the car did you put the weight on the steering arm to torque the LCA/UCA? :)

[BigKriss]

so, which part of the car did you put the weight on the steering arm to torque the LCA/UCA? :)
When everything was bolted up we put the car onto some ramps (enabling us to get to the control arm bolts) getting a final torque.

[632 Regal]

dude! use a nut without the self locking part on it and snug things together then use the self locking nut.

[romeox929]

When everything was bolted up we put the car onto some ramps (enabling us to get to the control arm bolts) getting a final torque.

oh, I'm not talking about the bolts attached to the chassis, but the ones on the steering arm.

[romeox929]

dude! use a nut without the self locking part on it and snug things together then use the self locking nut.

that safe??

[MBXB]

It's safe.

All the standard nut does is snug the parts together, then you can easily install the lock nut and torque to spec.

I forget what that type of interference fit is called.

[632 Regal]

a lot safer than jacking the new parts up.
It's safe.

All the standard nut does is snug the parts together, then you can easily install the lock nut and torque to spec.

I forget what that type of interference fit is called.

[Kalevera]

As Jeff and Ramon said...

100% of the control arms I do come with nylock nuts (Lemforder OEM from the dealer or WorldPac). You'll have a hell of a time getting the nylock nut in place. We put them aside and use the OEM nut, which has a part number, and doesn't have nylock. It *is* a locking nut, however...just uses metal/they really can't be reused.

Goes on like it's supposed to, no problems, no vice grips, (and usually) no T stands.

Nylock nuts or reusing old nuts = more work than need be.

best, whit

[RobPatt]

...that and uppers (& Sachs kit recently) quelled ALL my shimmey/vibrations.... i did the LCAs on 1 session, separate time from doing sachs and thrust arms... had lemforder aluminium LCA (aluminium- don't know if that was stock or not on the 525), anyway when the new LCA (steel ones) came from BMA w/new nylon lock nuts, I just put one old nylon nut (from the old LCA) in the vice, got a flame and cooked out the nylon ring... then like 632 Regal said, used it to snug up the joint, then take the nut off (leave the joint in it's "socket"), and put on the nylon lock nut, torque, done. Didn't take steering arm off, just raise the car, remove wheels.... did need to turn the steering wheel a bit to get the socket on... that was it... was rather simple procedure.... and the only work i've ever done like this was exactly what I've already said... sachs (credits to lowell for his SUPER write up), thrust arms (beat to death on the forum...) and the lower control arms... good luck.

(next is the motiviation, time and cash to do steering links/tie rods... but no vibrations so maybe not an issue.... or if I feel like it...)

[632 Regal]

Rob, I did the centerlink, tie rods a simple way...im lazy.

I pulled the car straight up the ramps with the steering so that it was straight. When I popped one tie end i made sure there was no pressure pulling or pushing the tire. snugged it back up, did the same on the other side and then the same in the steering arm.

I guestimated the new parts and zapped them together close. went under the car, started with the steering link...tightened it up. then went to one tie rod side and adjusted it so it was neutral and toghtened, same for other side. Done deal.

took it in for an alignment and it was 1/2 degree off on one side (which was within limits) and probably off for years.

it was a cinch and didnt take more than a half hour using this method.

[MBXB]

Brilliant Jeff!

[RobPatt]

...with the LCA i just beat heck out of it w/a 3lb hammer, sprayed PB blaster, wait, beat heck w/the pickle fork, wait, repeat & after about 5 cycles it went pop.... BUT my question is will doing the same w/steering linkage foul up other parts... like beat heck out of the tie rod will that hurt the other steering arms, etc...or doesn't matter if you replace all at once... I guess...

i see what you mean about the ramps, wheels straight, etc, guess not too hard... thanks!


Rob, I did the centerlink, tie rods a simple way...im lazy.

I pulled the car straight up the ramps with the steering so that it was straight. When I popped one tie end i made sure there was no pressure pulling or pushing the tire. snugged it back up, did the same on the other side and then the same in the steering arm.

I guestimated the new parts and zapped them together close. went under the car, started with the steering link...tightened it up. then went to one tie rod side and adjusted it so it was neutral and toghtened, same for other side. Done deal.

took it in for an alignment and it was 1/2 degree off on one side (which was within limits) and probably off for years.

it was a cinch and didnt take more than a half hour using this method.