Should I change the valley pan gasket?

[Cambridge]

I'm planning to powder coat my valve covers and, while I was at it for a preventative measure, replace the intake manifold gaskets, PCV and other misc o-rings. Should I also replace the valley pan gasket too? I don't have any coolant leaks (yet). Should I do this as a preventative measure while I'm in there?

It sure looks like a hassle to do it... I really don't relish the idea of removing the water pump or loosening the coolant manifold at the back of the engine. Or... is there some trick to make it easier that I'm missing?

[tim]

I'm planning to powder coat my valve covers and, while I was at it for a preventative measure, replace the intake manifold gaskets, PCV and other misc o-rings. Should I also replace the valley pan gasket too? I don't have any coolant leaks (yet). Should I do this as a preventative measure while I'm in there?

It sure looks like a hassle to do it... I really don't relish the idea of removing the water pump or loosening the coolant manifold at the back of the engine. Or... is there some trick to make it easier that I'm missing?


It is a hassle. The real reason to do it it to, IMHO, is to replace the rubber O rings (if that's what you call them) that seal the cooler pipes. Once they leak the jig is up. You could just let the sleeping dog lie if it's not leaking. The catch 22 is that it's pretty hard to tell until its too late. If you have trace coolant loss, and the tranny cooler lines and front end are tight, that's prolly where it went.

If you have an automatic, don't forget to r&r the tranny cooler hoses. It's really hard (but not impossible) unless you have the manifold and coolant reservoir off. I consider it routine when doing the pcv. They will leak eventually. Use a nice hose clamp, and then a heavy duty cable tie on either side of the clamp on both inlet and outlet- but especially on the inlet, as that's where all the pressure is.

Your car is already stunningly beautiful. Please post large engine porno pix for me when you get the valve covers. Are you going to stay with that cosmoline color?

[632 Regal]

dude your right there, replace it!!! I have heard from several people about them leaking and that would be a bitch to have to pull the intake again to replace that...also while there replace the front throttle body cover gasket.

[Cambridge]

Thanks for the note Tim!

Thanks for the tips on the O-rings for the cooling pipes. Would that be #5 and #7 in this diagram? I'd guess I'd probably need to change the gaskets #2 also? Cooling System Pipe (http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=HE63&mospid=47410&btnr=11_1246&hg=11&fg=35&hl=13)

You also mentioned replacing the transmission oil cooling hoses. Would that be #5 and #6 in this diagram? Transmission Oil Cooling hoses (http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=HE63&mospid=47410&btnr=17_0086&hg=17&fg=05&hl=17)

I've not yet settled on the color for the valve covers. Some owners have done them in black. Some have picked a color to match the original valve cover color. Others have done them in "aluminum" to match the rest of the engine.

The powder coat "aluminum" I've seen in pictures online seems to look nearly identical to the engine aluminum. Have you seen this in person? Does it look good up close? I guess I'm trying to decide between original, black, and aluminum. What do you think?

[Cambridge]

Yes, I think you're right. I'll replace that gasket too.

I was planning to take the intake manifold out with the throttle body still attached. I'd separate the throttle body once it is out of the car. One DIY'er found this approach easier (see bottom of page) Intake Manifold Procedure (http://www.e38.org/intake/bmw740_intake.html)

What do you think? Seemed to make it easier to get at the bolts with less chance for stripping them out?

[Kalevera]

I think you're opening up a can of worms by messing with the trans cooler lines if they're not leaking. They're typically a bear to get off, and it's quite common for the aluminum threads on the *cooler* side to strip out...and that cooler is a $230+ part. So, if it's okay, leave it alone.

Also, given that the car has had a block replacement, these other seals have probably half of the use on them that the typical nikasil blocked car runs around with, and how often do they leak? (rhetorical)

best, whit

[BlueM60]

I agree,with Lowell, if the engine was changed not long ago, Id leave it.Of course my M60 is also fairly new and I took the oil pan off recently only to find my oil pump was nearly in two pieces, so you never know. I noticed in the pics they didnt remove the crank pulley to remove the water pump, I know on M62 that last bolt is a bitch to get to with the crank pulley installed.

-Ben