preparation to switch to synthetic oil

[rob101]

hello, I am going to switch from minerial to synthetic engine oil at my next oil change, can i just plonk the synthetic in and run for 2-5k then change to clear the sludge out? and also what grade of synthetic would you recommend for a mild queensland winter (similar to winter in Florida or california i suppose)

[JonE]

Hi,
When I switched I did an intermediate step of half mineral/half synthetic for a few thousand miles. All of the talk of synthetic clearing too much stuff out, resulting in oil leaks worried me a bit. Next change I went with 0-40 mobil 1 and it seems to work just fine.
Good luck,
JonE

[Zeuk in Oz]

hello, I am going to switch from minerial to synthetic engine oil at my next oil change, can i just plonk the synthetic in and run for 2-5k then change to clear the sludge out? and also what grade of synthetic would you recommend for a mild queensland winter (similar to winter in Florida or california i suppose)
Rob, do a search on this as you will get almost as many opinions as there are posters.
When I bought my E34 I initially put semi-synthetic into it because I didn't know any better, nor what was in it before.
I then started using Mobil 1 5W-40. No leaks at all !
I finally located Mobil 1 0W-40, but it can be like rocking horse $hit in Oz so you may have to order it somewhere.
If you read the blurb on the back of the containers, it would appear that the 0W-40 has extended life compared to the 5W-40.
I am not suggesting to extend the period between changes, just suggesting that the 0w-40 would appear to be a superior oil.
Interestingly I have finally located a source of fully synthetic Mobil Delvac diesel engine oil for my F 250.
It is also worth looking at Mobil's websites for more info.

BigKriss' oil post from a few weeks back might be useful :
http://www.chris-longhurst.com/carbibles/engineoil_bible.html

[rob101]

Rob, do a search on this as you will get almost as many opinions as there are posters.
When I bought my E34 I initially put semi-synthetic into it because I didn't know any better, nor what was in it before.
I then started using Mobil 1 5W-40. No leaks at all !
I finally located Mobil 1 0W-40, but it can be like rocking horse $hit in Oz so you may have to order it somewhere.
If you read the blurb on the back of the containers, it would appear that the 0W-40 has extended life compared to the 5W-40.
I am not suggesting to extend the period between changes, just suggesting that the 0w-40 would appear to be a superior oil.
Interestingly I have finally located a source of fully synthetic Mobil Delvac diesel engine oil for my F 250.
It is also worth looking at Mobil's websites for more info.

BigKriss' oil post from a few weeks back might be useful :
http://www.chris-longhurst.com/carbibles/engineoil_bible.html
yeah I posted rather than searching too much because of the ******** and heresay and conflicting opinions. I'd rather listen to one opinion from someone i respect than (such as yourself) than hear all the ********.... and be confused and end up in the same place as I started.

[Kobe Diesel]

I, too, just switched to synthetics in both of my cars. My plan is to run both for about 4k miles so that the detergents can go to work on desludging the engines. I dont want the sludge ruining the seals. Just by looking into the fill cap on my Audi A4 2.8 30V motor I could see all the sludge caked up around the valve gear, etc. I'll check it again after 1k miles to see if there is any change. On the other hand, the BMW looked clean, although I will get a better view this summer when I do some top end work on the engine.

Hopefully, if this works, I plan on changing oil every 10k, with filter changes every 5k. Theoretically, it has been said that synthetics can last for 25k, but Im not going to risk subjecting my vehicles to that. Otherwise, changing synthetics every 3k is a huge waste of money, unless you are racing the car, that's a different story.

Besides, the real reason I switched is so that I dont have to get under the car as often! (ha)

[Boom n Zoom]

but here are some more links from the Mobil Australia site (most likely linked anyhow to the exxonmobil main site)

There is a little chat about Synthetic and Mineral oils
http://www.mobil.com/Australia-English/LCW/Audiences/Synthetic_V_Mineral.asp

Exhibit 'B'
http://www.mobil.com/Australia-English/LCW/Products_Services/Mobil_1.asp

Exhibit 'C'
http://search.exxonmobil.com/ledr/query_adv.html?searchNow=Submit&chooseLanguage=en&URL=http%3A%2F%2Fsearch.exxonmobil.com%2Fledr%2Fqu ery_adv.html&col=ledr&nh=25&st=1&rf=0&qm=0&pw=100%25&ws=0&lk=1&rq=0&la=ru&si=0&qc=ledr&co=Australia&tx0=MOBIL+Lubes+%2FPDS&op0=%2B&fl0=url%3A&ty0=w&tx1=Automotive+Engine+Oils&op1=%2B&fl1=category%3A&ty1=w&tx2=&op2=%2B&fl2=subcategory%3A&ty2=w&tx3=&op3=%2B&fl3=synthetic%3A&ty3=w&tx4=&op4=%2B&fl4=industry%3A&ty4=w&tx5=Australia&op5=%2B&fl5=country%3A&ty5=w&tx6=&op6=%2B&fl6=foodgrade%3A&ty6=w&tx7=&op7=%2B&fl7=eal%3A&ty7=w&tx8=&op8=%2B&fl8=type%3A&ty8=w&tx9=english&op9=&fl9=language%3A&ty9=w

Exhibit 'C' is a link list to individual oils which is............. interesting


For my 0.02c worth as far as Mobil oils go, I would put in Super XHP 10W-40 or 15W-40 with a new filter for 2500Kms then go across to the Mobil 1 SuperSyn 5W-50 or I feel more preferable with 15W-50 for the engine technology and assembly techniques of 10 - 15 years ago. It's for this reason that I would hesitate to put in the 0W-40 Mobil 1 SuperSyn as I have heard story's from people I know still in the mechanical industry about using superultramegalightin oils in older thechnology engines that have not been overhauled it has been changed over to the aforementioned and in the worst case spun a bearing.

I will be the first to say that I have never seen anything like this happening first hand, it is all hear-say.

But....

I do run Mobil 1 SuperSyn 15W-40 in my '92 S XR 8 (sequentially injected 302 Winsor) and I know it has massive sludge build-up (did when I bought it) it has just clocked 230,000kms and whilst I know it's very poorly internally, I do the oil and filter changes on it every 10,000kms and after 4 Years and a tick over 100,000kms in it (had 128,000kms on it when I bought it) the oil is coming out reasonably clean. The valve stem seals have begun to leak now and it has begun to breath a little heavy (read blow-by) so this is dirtying up the oil now. It has been a very strong (and still is) and smooth engine, but it has now reached the point where it requires a complete freshen-up and I will have a closer look then to see if there is any major damage

Please be warned I will revive this thread when that time comes (if I can find it of course)

So the long and short of it rob101 is by all means change it but don't go to the bleeding edge of oil technology as 'there exists the possibility that it may bite you'

I have only put the Mobil oils links here you may well have a favorite brand of oil that you might want to use. My only advice on that front is, if you travel interstate a lot you best go with something that is easily available. Call it 'insurance'

Hope some of this dribbling is useful :)

Boom n Zoom

[rob101]

I understand i might have sounded a little jaded talking about "********" what i mean is i know there are risks in changing over like anything and I am prepared to take those risks, but I know synthetics are better for the engine and I am not going to run minerial oil forever just because my seals "might" leak a bit. I understand there is no one solution but I what i don't want is too many conflicting opinions trying to be diplomatic.... just good sensible advice such as what has been offered here.

I'll probably run 0W-40 though, 15W-40 minerial i have been running seemed to be okay. so 40 weight won't be too thin and the engine should see a fairly stable viscosity actually i was thinking of trying the Castrol Edge fully synthetic that is new on the market
http://www.castrol.com/liveassets/bp_internet/castrol/castrol_australia/STAGING/local_assets/downloads/e/EDGE0W40_B1971_05.pdf

[632 Regal]

the new M1 0w-40 is not like the first stuff they came out with many years ago that had a LOT of detergents in it and led to leaks. The M1 now doesnt cause leaks unless your gaskets are needing replacing. There is no need to worry about anything breaking or going to hell just because of switching. Most people notice the engine being quieter immediately after changing over. I would recommend M1 0w-40 over the other weights as it can handle sub zero and the most extream heat conditions without breakdown.

[Boom n Zoom]

Oil types and brands is hotly contested by fuel type and brand topics :)

I should have asked what you are running now to save confusion, sorry about that.

I think that the 5W-40or50 synthetics are probably more suited to our climate, that's my feeling but it's not really going to hurt to put in a 0W-40.

Sorry if I have misled you or anyone.

Boom n Zoom :)

[rob101]

Oil types and brands is hotly contested by fuel type and brand topics :)

I should have asked what you are running now to save confusion, sorry about that.

I think that the 5W-40or50 synthetics are probably more suited to our climate, that's my feeling but it's not really going to hurt to put in a 0W-40.

Sorry if I have misled you or anyone.

Boom n Zoom :)
lol no need to apologise especially for exhibit C it allowed me to compare the specs of the castrol edge 0W-40 and mobil 1 0W-40, not much of a difference but price there may be a significant difference. Time to goto supercheap :D

[Bill R.]

available, we can't get the 5w50 mobil one that you guys in Oz can get. If i could get it thats what i would be running. In my mind the 0w40 was the closest thing to 5w50. For some reason mobil chose not to sell that oil here in the US.




hello, I am going to switch from minerial to synthetic engine oil at my next oil change, can i just plonk the synthetic in and run for 2-5k then change to clear the sludge out? and also what grade of synthetic would you recommend for a mild queensland winter (similar to winter in Florida or california i suppose)

[rob101]

we even have a 10W-60 castrol oil forgive my ignorance but isn't 60W a bit too thick for most engines

[Tiger]

Depend how hot it get down there... consult the temperature chart to see if it matches what you need... but 0W40 handles just about everything.

[E34 530]

I switched to synthetic around February 6, 2006. Before that I had a drop of oil on the floor of the garage about once every two weeks. I just replaced the pan gasket in May of 05, so leaks were very rare. I now have an oily mess under my car in the past 3 weeks. I realize that the switch from regular to synthetic causes this, but how long does it take for the seals to adjust to the synthetic oil?? Hope this helps a little. I was planning on changing it about 6-7k from my current 61k miles. Does this sound accurate, or did I blow all my seals?

[rob101]

Depend how hot it get down there... consult the temperature chart to see if it matches what you need... but 0W40 handles just about everything.
winter's coming so perhaps 0W40 or 5W50 would be best.10W60 would be for summer as it routinely gets up around 32 and mid summer often 35ish celsius that is

[Zeuk in Oz]

winter's coming so perhaps 0W40 or 5W50 would be best.10W60 would be for summer as it routinely gets up around 32 and mid summer often 35ish celsius that is
As far as my understanding goes, unless you see many days over 40C in summer, 0W-40 will do the trick nicely.
My independent mechanic first told me about 0W-40 (admittedly he is in Sydney which is cooler than Brisbane), but he first pointed out the different claims in the literature for 0W-40 compared with 5W-40.
I think the important thing is to do changes at 10 k km and so never let the oil get to the point where it is at the end of its life.
I must admit I was amazed at 0W-40's consistency the first time I poured it - it is like canola oil !

[rob101]

Mobil 1 5W-50 has the following builder approvals:

Daimler Chrysler 229.3
Porsche Approved
Volkswagen 505.00 where as

Mobil 1 0W-40 has the following builder approvals:

BMW LL-01
Daimler Chrysler 229.3/229.5
Opel Long Life Service Fill GM-LL-A-025
Opel Diesel Service Fill GM-LL-B-025
Porsche Approved
Volkswagen 502.00/505.00,503.01
hmmm this leads me to believe that 0W-40 may be a superior mobil one grade to 5W-50

I also like to point out that castrol edge 0W-40 also meets BMW long life standard

Castrol Edge 0W-40 surpasses a wide range of specifications and has numerous manufacturer approvals and suitable where the following requirements are called for:
• American Petroleum Institute (API) Service Classifications:
Petrol : SM, (SL, SJ, SH and all superseded classifications).
Diesel : CF
• Association of Constructors of European Automobiles (ACEA):
o A3 (Stay-in-grade, extended drain intervals for high performance petrol engines).
o B3 (Stay-in-grade for high performance indirect injection diesel engines).
o B4 (Stay-in-grade for modern high performance direct injection diesel engines).
• BMW Longlife 01.
• Mercedes Benz 229.3 approved.
• VW 502.00, 503.01 and 505.00 approved.

[632 Regal]

your gaskets are cooked, find out where and replace.

I switched to synthetic around February 6, 2006. Before that I had a drop of oil on the floor of the garage about once every two weeks. I just replaced the pan gasket in May of 05, so leaks were very rare. I now have an oily mess under my car in the past 3 weeks. I realize that the switch from regular to synthetic causes this, but how long does it take for the seals to adjust to the synthetic oil?? Hope this helps a little. I was planning on changing it about 6-7k from my current 61k miles. Does this sound accurate, or did I blow all my seals?

[Evan]

Hey did you ever find out which gaskets are leaking after your switch from dino to synth? Did you change them?

Evan

[laguner]

I own a Miata and a BMW and this topic is huge on miata.net. Everybody always refers to this site for questions on oil on miata.net. http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/
I used Mobil 1 on my Miata with 100K miles on it and no problems at all. I did notice a quieting of my notoriously tappy Miata engine but at about 3K miles the tap returns, so the advantage was minimal from that standpoint. NO LEAKS THOUGH! If your gaskets are going anyway synthetic may make it more apparent but I'm not convinced.

[SRR2]

Here's what BMW says about oil for the E39 525, 530, and 540:

Approved oils are in SAE classes
5W-40 and 5W-30.
These oils may be used for driving in all
ambient temperatures.

Seems pretty straightforward to me.

[athflying79]

Just curious. How is an oil added to a manufacturers "approved oil" list. I ask because I don't think the manufacturers seek out oil companies so that they can go through the expense of testing there oil. I would think the oil companies have to pay the manufacturers to have them added to the list.

If a oil meets a certain specification such as SPI, isn't that more important than what is on the manufacturers list??