View Full Version : oxygen sensor, will these alternatives work?
BigKriss
03-01-2006, 09:43 PM
I emailed Patick (BMA) and he was saying that
OEM for my car part number - 11781720537 - us$102
Ford Sensor - 13942 - usd$41.00 - but Patrick quoted "If you are going to splice the wires, you are better off doing it with a 4 wire sensor then a three"
Bosch 15716 - Ford 4 wire o2 sensor - usd$45 and
Bosch 15727 - 4 wire universal - usd$55
The last two sensors will fit the bung on the exhaust pipes no worries. I can solder and crimp wires so I don't mind using the old connector. Patrick advised not using a 3 wire sensor like some people have here (http://www.bimmer.info/forum/showthread.php?t=4868&highlight=bosch+13942) and here. (http://www.bimmer.info/forum/showthread.php?t=1740&highlight=ford+oxygen+se)
My question is, if I buy either the ford or the universal 4-wire bosch sensor (preferably the cheaper ford one) and re-wire them onto the old cable, will they work with no problems?
winfred
03-01-2006, 09:56 PM
the 4 wire should work fine, it'd be perfect if it had the same slots in the tip but i don't think it's critical, some of the sensors that are in the crotch where the two pipes come together instead of having the common 4 slots on the sides of the tip, have a hole in the end of the tip and vent holes around the base for better flow through the sensor as it's pointing at the gas flow instead of the gas hitting the side of the sensor tip
BigKriss
03-01-2006, 10:08 PM
Winfred, mate. thanks. So i'll just get the cheap-ass "Bosch 15716 - Ford 4 wire o2 sensor - usd$45" and rewire, will that work fine?
winfred
03-01-2006, 11:01 PM
should do well, i use solderless metal crimp connectors (it's basicly a plastic coated crimp butt connector without the plastic) and seal them with heat shrink tubing, the stainless steel wire doesn't solder well or id suggest that if you knew how to solder
Martin in Bellevue
03-01-2006, 11:06 PM
...My question is, if I buy either the ford or the universal 4-wire bosch sensor (preferably the cheaper ford one) and re-wire them onto the old cable, will they work with no problems?
Kris this is what you really want:
http://www.dynotunenitrous.com/store/ProdImages/LC-1_base_kit_large.JPG
http://www.dynotunenitrous.com/store/prodimages/red-voltage-square-large.jpg
http://www.dynotunenitrous.com/store/scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=150
Scott H
03-01-2006, 11:17 PM
:D
Kris this is what you really want:
http://www.dynotunenitrous.com/store/ProdImages/LC-1_base_kit_large.JPG
http://www.dynotunenitrous.com/store/prodimages/red-voltage-square-large.jpg
http://www.dynotunenitrous.com/store/scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=150
BigKriss
03-02-2006, 12:10 AM
thanks Winfred, that exactly what I will do, use some spade connectors and then heat shrink wrap. Scott, that o2 sensor is exactly what I want, you read my mind but I can't afford us$200 at the moment. :(
Bill R.
03-02-2006, 12:17 AM
the o2 sensor to the connector up by the starter. O2 sensors operate in the millivolts range. Any corrosion or resistance in the wire harness itself will change the readings that the dme gets. Frequently the connector itself has corrosion at the contacts. You can buy a new one with the complete harness not a universal for 79 from oxygensensors.com at this link (https://www.automedicsupply.com/catalog4.php?PHPSESSID=759d156a0421fcdafd746221dba 01b26)
That way you're getting all new wire and new connectors, ie low resistance.
I haven't had any problems with any of the Walker o2 sensors that i've installed.
I emailed Patick (BMA) and he was saying that
OEM for my car part number - 11781720537 - us$102
Ford Sensor - 13942 - usd$41.00 - but Patrick quoted "If you are going to splice the wires, you are better off doing it with a 4 wire sensor then a three"
Bosch 15716 - Ford 4 wire o2 sensor - usd$45 and
Bosch 15727 - 4 wire universal - usd$55
The last two sensors will fit the bung on the exhaust pipes no worries. I can solder and crimp wires so I don't mind using the old connector. Patrick advised not using a 3 wire sensor like some people have here (http://www.bimmer.info/forum/showthread.php?t=4868&highlight=bosch+13942) and here. (http://www.bimmer.info/forum/showthread.php?t=1740&highlight=ford+oxygen+se)
My question is, if I buy either the ford or the universal 4-wire bosch sensor (preferably the cheaper ford one) and re-wire them onto the old cable, will they work with no problems?
BigKriss
03-02-2006, 12:50 AM
thanks very much for the link Bill. I appreciate your comments, although I don't think I'll go this route because a lot of companies in the USA charge a lot in shipping costs for small, light items to Australia. I could give them a email for a quote of shipping and such, then I have to muck around with credit card details. It seems easier if I just get everything from BMA. I assume all the o2 sensors (from oxygensensors.com) are complete kits, I don't know. So maybe I will email BMA and ask them to pricematch on the Universal Bosch or Walker unit? What do you think?
Bill R.
03-02-2006, 12:55 AM
universal is not a complete kit, the universal consists of a sensor with some short leads and some solderless connectors to splice it with. All other o2 sensors mentioned are with the complete harness and connector.
thanks very much for the link Bill. I appreciate your comments, although I don't think I'll go this route because a lot of companies in the USA charge a lot in shipping costs for small, light items to Australia. I could give them a email for a quote of shipping and such, then I have to muck around with credit card details. It seems easier if I just get everything from BMA. I assume all the o2 sensors (from oxygensensors.com) are complete kits, I don't know. So maybe I will email BMA and ask them to pricematch on the Universal Bosch or Walker unit? What do you think?
BigKriss
03-02-2006, 01:04 AM
a huh - gotcha Bill. I thought universal meant complete kit. Okay thanks Bill. I'll tell you how I go. I'm replacing it because I can't remember when it was last replaced and I get poor fuel consumption (around 14MPG city) without driving it hard. Thanks for everyone's help :)
Jon K
03-02-2006, 01:25 AM
Kriss, I know it sounds like a lot of money but the wideband is a steal and it's PRICELESS given the information it can provide. The wideband sensors also tend to last longer - additionally, if you scale the wideband output to a narrowband input for a stock ECU, the resolution is much better defined.
$200 now, or several narrowband sensors later....
Kalevera
03-02-2006, 01:33 AM
Kriss, I know it sounds like a lot of money but the wideband is a steal and it's PRICELESS given the information it can provide. The wideband sensors also tend to last longer - additionally, if you scale the wideband output to a narrowband input for a stock ECU, the resolution is much better defined.
$200 now, or several narrowband sensors later....
Like the man said...it's a steal.
Next time Fritz drives, that's what I'll be running.
best, whit
BigKriss
03-02-2006, 01:38 AM
I know that the wideband sensor is THE o2 sensor to purchase. I just can't afford one at the moment. For sure what Martin shows us, that's what I want to get. I was thinking of spending us$50 and lowering my fuel consumption or waiting untill I have the money for the wideband. Thanks for your comments though guys :) Now you have me thinking again.
Rustam
03-02-2006, 03:15 AM
My question is, if I buy either the ford or the universal 4-wire bosch sensor (preferably the cheaper ford one) and re-wire them onto the old cable, will they work with no problems?
I had someone install universl sensor for me during catalytic converter installation. The person did not care to make good connection - simply twisted bare ends of wires together connecting existing cable to new sensor. The result - "no oxygen sensor connection" related fault code stored in the memory.
If you want to use any of these, you have to make sure that you SOLDER the connection - otherwise you will get this problem. If you do solder them, you can use them...
I don't see a problem with using 3 wire sensor either. If you look into Bentley's manual wiring you will see that one wire from the sensor element is attached to the ground - once you screw the sensor into the bung that attachment shall be made on the spot... Pin #10 of the ECU has to be separately grounded then. Again - you have to solder the connections.
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