New brakes....but I have a problem.

[liquidtiger720]

Okay, so my gf's dad and I spend the afternoon today doing the brakes, and brake lines. All was well, until I went out for a test drive. I instantly felt a katunk katunk when I pressed on the brakes... At first, I thought it might have been a loose wheel, so I went back immediately (note, by the time I got to the garage, my brakes were SMOKING! (traveled 2 blocks to make a u turn)) and tighted the right front wheel (where I felt it was coming from). But before I tightened it, I took it off and took a look inside...nothing out of place, everything was tight and snug. Took it out again, same thing. So, i decided to take off the wheel again and have a even closer look. Upon turning the rotor, I noticed a slight wave in the rotor(potato chips anybody?). I thought that was weird. At this point, I was convinced it was the rotor and decided to quickly swap the left front with the right front. When comparing the two, it looked as if the pad on the problem was was "skipping", for lack of better terms. The left front one had nice even wear marks from the pads. Swapped them, test drove...now it feels like its coming from the left.


So, in conclusion, this TOTALLY SUCKS. Angry Angry

BMA better send me a replacement rotor asap.

Should I also request replacement Hawk Performance ceramic pads? (which is what I choose to put in and have in right now) Since, technically, new rotors are suppose to be used with used pads.

BTW: Hawk Performance pads are LOUD. hehe.

[infinity5]

I have a clunk-clunk noise whenever i apply the brakes, especially with moderate force. I didn't change the brakes like you, but i did remove the back caliper and the strut/hub assembly when i did the thrust arms and control arms.

I'll be interested to see what other people say about your problem. I thought maybe my thrust arms were hitting the steering tie rods.

are you postive you had everything together right the first time?

[Kalevera]

Are you sure that the outer pad wasn't installed backwards? It's a fairly common mistake.

best, whit

[Kalevera]

If it's not suspension related, that's more likely to be a guide pin or bracket bolt issue.

About a year ago, I was returning home from a 500 mile trip. Got off the interstate and had about 2 miles to go to get home. I noticed that there was an occasional clunk on hitting the brakes when going through town. Next time I drove the car, it was happening all the time. I wrote it off as bad brakes (I knew I needed to do them).

With the car apart, I noticed that the front pass side lower carrier bolt had fallen out, which was causing the assembly to bang against the rotor -- only a matter of time before a big accident.

The car was not driveable for another few weeks, so I was riding my bike around town. One day while waiting to cross the road at the intersection before my house, I looked down and saw my badly run over carrier bolt.

best, whit

[liquidtiger720]

I'm pretty sure it was assembled correctly the first time, we retighted everything before we went out on the second run.

Whit. Backwards, as in upside down?

I don't see how it would have transfered over from feeling it coming from the right and then the left when I switched it. Also, how do we explain the slight wave in the rotor?


I'll take a pic of the assembly tommorow for you.


If its suspension related, what could have been hurt while doing the brakes? It was driving fine on the drive over before we did the work.


Whit, if you can...could you email or pm me your number?


edit: I should also mention, that with light to moderate braking, I can't feel the clunks...but maybe its too soft for me to feel?

one more thing. Uneven painting by say...ceramic high heat paint, on the rotor caps wouldnt cause this clunk somehow, would it?

[genphreak]

One day while waiting to cross the road at the intersection before my house, I looked down and saw my badly run over carrier bolt. best, whitHahahahha, freaky as!

[Kobe Diesel]

What kind of rotors are you using? Stock rotor? On two occasions with new stock rotors, had unusal brake feel and brought them to shop for machining - mind you that these were new and had to be cut before all was well.

If this is all they need, that's one thing. But if you have a shop cut the rotors and the problem is not cured, it might void BMA return policies.

More prudent to just request a new set of rotors. I wouldnt worry about replacing the pads as you didnt really put use to them. New rotors and proper bedding with the Hawks shouldnt give you any problems

As for the paint, did you paint the braking surface of rotor or just the hub and outer edge?

[Felixdacat]

I just installed new Brembo cross drilled and slotted rotors last night, and had the same problem. Thought it was the suspension. Turned out that it was just the break in on the new rotors, and pads that needed to be done. Everything is fine and dandy now. If the rotor looks warped to you, and you don't trust it return it. Your new pads will be fine.
Goodluck

[Scott H]

The bottom bolt rattled out and the carrier fel on the outer edge of the rotor....giving it a slight grind.


If it's not suspension related, that's more likely to be a guide pin or bracket bolt issue.

About a year ago, I was returning home from a 500 mile trip. Got off the interstate and had about 2 miles to go to get home. I noticed that there was an occasional clunk on hitting the brakes when going through town. Next time I drove the car, it was happening all the time. I wrote it off as bad brakes (I knew I needed to do them).

With the car apart, I noticed that the front pass side lower carrier bolt had fallen out, which was causing the assembly to bang against the rotor -- only a matter of time before a big accident.

The car was not driveable for another few weeks, so I was riding my bike around town. One day while waiting to cross the road at the intersection before my house, I looked down and saw my badly run over carrier bolt.

best, whit

[liquidtiger720]

I just painted the hats of the rotor btw.


I did not paint the hubs or the rotor surface.

[liquidtiger720]

Is anybody running ceramic pads on thier e34? Specifically the hawk ceramics. A local member reported the same type of problem with ceramics that was cured by switching back to regular pads.

[Scott H]

good results with them.



Is anybody running ceramic pads on thier e34? Specifically the hawk ceramics. A local member reported the same type of problem with ceramics that was cured by switching back to regular pads.

[Kobe Diesel]

Using Raybestos Ceramic QS with Brembo OEM rotors (front).
Not a single squeek or squeel...

You probably did this and Im not calling you a novice but this is a quick reminder for a novice who's reading and planning for a 1st time DIY brake job...

Make sure to thoroughly the edges on the carrier where the pads slide on. Remove the carriers and wire wheel the entire thing if you have the bench grinder/wheel available, or use rough sand paper to get the mentioned surfaces rust and dirt free and shiny. Clean caliper piston edges. Use a good grease for brake applications and lube these surfaces lightly (I use this blue stuff - cannot remember brand). Clean threads on all bolts and lube with the brake grease. CAREFUL not to get grease on pad and rotor surfaces. Sometimes new pads come with anti-noise paste, use it according to directions. Torque bolts to spec - not more or less - right on.