New rear shock mounts still rattle... help pls

[RobPatt]

Did Sachs kit w/new mounts front and rear.... was anal, torqued all correctly, etc. (or so I thought...)

6 months later rear shock mounts rattling away.

Bought new 'reenforced' stronger Meyle ones... installed, torqued, etc.
Rattle improved, but week later it's back.

Since then I've made them 1 turn tighter (while installed in car) and it gets worse... so back off 1.5 turns and it's a bit better...

The metallic 'clack-clack' corresponds to bumps, and I've the rear shelf and sound proofing out so when I hit a bump and look in rear-view mirror, the bump corresponds to the shock's motion.

Q1 - Wondering how to do this and how to fix before these mounts go out...?
Q2 - I torqued shock shaft to mount at 25lb w/assy out of the car....should I have don w/it in the car?

thanks, Rob
beautiful day in N.W. Florda - way too nice to be working inside...

[Brandon J]

Are you sure it's the mounts? What about the shocks, rear bushings, exhaust hangers, rear swaybar links, rear parcel shelf clips, the jack in the trunk, tools in the trunk lid, a nut/screw/socket that is stuck in the rear parcel shelf area, seat belt, etc.

[RobPatt]

To eliminate all that I've stripped the entire trunk, tool kit included, tire, jack, etc etc, the rear seat bottom and back, the parcel shelf too....

All that, combined w/hearing the clack-clack and watching the shocks movement as I drive over bumps (slowly in the 'hood w/rear view mirror angled to see the top of the shocks...) makes me think the mount is faulty or not installed correctly....

Still stuck and hoping not to screw up what was a good mount....
-Rob.


Are you sure it's the mounts? What about the shocks, rear bushings, exhaust hangers, rear swaybar links, rear parcel shelf clips, the jack in the trunk, tools in the trunk lid, a nut/screw/socket that is stuck in the rear parcel shelf area, seat belt, etc.

[Brandon J]

Hmmm....and you got all the new parts necessary like the gasket, new nuts, spring pad, etc.? If so, it oculd very well be a bad rear mount. Does it flex a lot when you push the back down? oOr does it look like there is any not normal flexing or movement? Makes me wonder if it only happens when you are moving or when the nut is really tight.

[genphreak]

Hmmm....and you got all the new parts necessary like the gasket, new nuts, spring pad, etc.? If so, it oculd very well be a bad rear mount. Does it flex a lot when you push the back down? oOr does it look like there is any not normal flexing or movement? Makes me wonder if it only happens when you are moving or when the nut is really tight.Perhaps stick it on a shock testing machine and then climb into the boot with a stethascope. Most suspension shops have them and offer free tests. I'd take a slab of beer with me when asking for the help, it sure would save you some time chasing that rattle.

[Rustam]

To eliminate all that I've stripped the entire trunk, tool kit included, tire, jack, etc etc, the rear seat bottom and back, the parcel shelf too....

All that, combined w/hearing the clack-clack and watching the shocks movement as I drive over bumps (slowly in the 'hood w/rear view mirror angled to see the top of the shocks...) makes me think the mount is faulty or not installed correctly....

Still stuck and hoping not to screw up what was a good mount....
-Rob.

Audio amplifier fixed tightly?

[Ariel525i]

Hi,

I've got the same problem here. I too was able to isolate the problem to the rear left shock mount. I was able to look at the part while dissassembled. No signs of cracks whatsover. Still is a mystery why I get the metallic rattle. I'll be bringing the car to my local BMW dealer within the week. I'll update you on any feedback given. :-)


Did Sachs kit w/new mounts front and rear.... was anal, torqued all correctly, etc. (or so I thought...)

6 months later rear shock mounts rattling away.

Bought new 'reenforced' stronger Meyle ones... installed, torqued, etc.
Rattle improved, but week later it's back.

Since then I've made them 1 turn tighter (while installed in car) and it gets worse... so back off 1.5 turns and it's a bit better...

The metallic 'clack-clack' corresponds to bumps, and I've the rear shelf and sound proofing out so when I hit a bump and look in rear-view mirror, the bump corresponds to the shock's motion.

Q1 - Wondering how to do this and how to fix before these mounts go out...?
Q2 - I torqued shock shaft to mount at 25lb w/assy out of the car....should I have don w/it in the car?

thanks, Rob
beautiful day in N.W. Florda - way too nice to be working inside...

[sdlongboarder]

What I've found in many cases, not just on e34's but across the spectrum of BMW's, is incorrect assembly when people put things back together. At times people get too involved in taking things apart that they don't pay enough attention to how it was assembled. Or someone else had been in there before and did the job wrong in the past.

Make sure that all of your washers are in the right spots and that the top washer is installed correctly. You can check the online ETK for how it is supposed to be together. Next, check all the other things that people have mentioned and then take it for a drive. When you are driving, if you still hear the noise, run through the brakes, see if the noise occurs when stepping lightly on the brake pedal. Then drive with your handbrake slightly on. Just enough for the shoes to make contact and see if it goes away.

CK
http://images14.fotki.com/v223/photos/6/687144/2730585/DSC_0066-vi.jpg

[Rustam]

Hi,

I've got the same problem here. I too was able to isolate the problem to the rear left shock mount. I was able to look at the part while dissassembled. No signs of cracks whatsover. Still is a mystery why I get the metallic rattle. I'll be bringing the car to my local BMW dealer within the week. I'll update you on any feedback given. :-)

is or is not the audio amplifier (mounter in relative vicinity of the left rear shock mount) affixed tightly???

[RobPatt]

... sorry for the bad english, and yeah you didn't know, but pulled the amp a long time ago..... I think it's not assembled correct as was suggested.... really what I think it is, is this:

- atop the bump stop is a conical "centering washer" of which the large opening goes down towards the bump stop.... the flat top portion of this centering washer goes up against the underside of the center of the shock mount.... I think on bumps this washer is hitting the metal part of the center (underside) of the mount.... going clank clank.... it's not the large washer in the interior part of the mount, the one immediatly under the shock nut because I took that thing off too... (( there's a pic in whit's Sachs write up of his new mount w/the nut on it and no washer... so I tried that setup (sans washer) for a drive around the block.... still same clack clack... - so the only think that it could be now is taht conical or cup shaped washer clacking up against the center and underside of the mount...)) make sense? thanks for the info to!

- BTW anyone in the Biloxi/Gulfport area? Moving there in May, just bought a house a north of exit 51 on I-10.....

will keep at it. Cheers, Rob sends.....

[RobPatt]

First, I went, that's a really nice touring....
Then, I went, with the nice M5 mirrors....
Then, I went, who's is it....
Then, I went, so the dude's from SD and a longboarder....
Sweet....
Then, I went, nice M3 in the drive way too....
Then, I went, Dang, sucks no waves at Ft. Walton Beach, wish I was back in Hawaii.
Cheers man, and nice ride x 3 (touring, board, & M3)



What I've found in many cases, not just on e34's but across the spectrum of BMW's, is incorrect assembly when people put things back together. At times people get too involved in taking things apart that they don't pay enough attention to how it was assembled. Or someone else had been in there before and did the job wrong in the past.

Make sure that all of your washers are in the right spots and that the top washer is installed correctly. You can check the online ETK for how it is supposed to be together. Next, check all the other things that people have mentioned and then take it for a drive. When you are driving, if you still hear the noise, run through the brakes, see if the noise occurs when stepping lightly on the brake pedal. Then drive with your handbrake slightly on. Just enough for the shoes to make contact and see if it goes away.

CK
http://images14.fotki.com/v223/photos/6/687144/2730585/DSC_0066-vi.jpg

[RobPatt]

First, I went, that's a really nice touring...
Then, I went, with the nice M5 mirrors....
Then, I went, who's is it....?
Then, I went, sweet it's a surfer....
Then, I went, oh, a nice M3 also...
So nice ride time 3 man... touring, longboard, M3.
At one point in Hawaii I had the 5, the longboard, and the 87 325is. Still have 2 out of the 3, but no waves here, bummer.
Enjoy. -Rob


What I've found in many cases, not just on e34's but across the spectrum of BMW's, is incorrect assembly when people put things back together. At times people get too involved in taking things apart that they don't pay enough attention to how it was assembled. Or someone else had been in there before and did the job wrong in the past.

Make sure that all of your washers are in the right spots and that the top washer is installed correctly. You can check the online ETK for how it is supposed to be together. Next, check all the other things that people have mentioned and then take it for a drive. When you are driving, if you still hear the noise, run through the brakes, see if the noise occurs when stepping lightly on the brake pedal. Then drive with your handbrake slightly on. Just enough for the shoes to make contact and see if it goes away.

CK
http://images14.fotki.com/v223/photos/6/687144/2730585/DSC_0066-vi.jpg

[Kalevera]

oops! I wonder if my car still doesn't have that washer in place (that picture was taken during disassembly), or if it even had one during my ownership. Maybe it never had it to begin with? I don't know. Thanks for pointing that out, though. . My jack rattled in the trunk when I last drove the car a few months ago -- snugged a towel between it and trunk wall, sound went away. But it surely was a pain to hunt down.


best, whit

[sdlongboarder]

Thanks Rob,

I've got the M5 seats as well with new leather. I've had everything from a 3.0cs (my favorite car) to the wagon and I do have to say that the wagon is overall my favorite and one that I'll keep for awhile. 5-speed is next and then on and on.

The M3 LTW is my friend's car.

Have you found the source yet?? Check that assembly and make certain it's correct and then on to the other steps. Keep your eyes open as well as your mind. I had an e34 V8 owner that came to us after going to every dealership in San Diego (one had it for over a month). The car was cutting out at high rpm's, I looked at it for about 5 minutes and noticed that the harmonic balancer didn't seem right and seemed a bit wobbly even though it was tight. I changed it out and problem solved. The crank sensor wasn't getting good enough signal once the engine accelerated quickly.

Good luck

Chris
La Jolla Independent BMW
bimmerdoc.com

http://images14.fotki.com/v223/photos/6/687144/2730585/DSC_0066-vi.jpg