Please help guys, this is killing me.

[Rob]

Howzit Guys,

I've had my car for about 3 - 4 Months now. Was given to me by my old man when I moved back to South Africa. Now, I love this car, it's just something about it that I love. :) And me being a very big BMW fan.

Well there are a few problems with this car, and it's really killing me at the moment, it's just sitting there, doing nothing. :(

The problem is lack of power.

I get in the car, turn the key and she turns but won't start, I need to do this three - 4 times to get her started.
Once started she idels at around 900rpm. Seems smooth and quick, like it should be.
Then while in park I give her some revs after she's warmed up and she sounds like a monster ready to go, love the sounds. :)
So I put her into drive and go. This is the problem

She just has no power. On a stright road I'll be going along with my foot flat to the floor and she might get to 80 - 90Km/s she sruggels on hills as well. When going, she'l be slow and sluggish then she'll jerk a little give a kick and she'l pull, like it's meant to be then few seconds later she drops power and there's no power. Then a few seconds later she pulls does what its meant to do then drops again, exacly the same.

So I've taken the fuel pump in at the moment. Will get it back end of next week. It's having new seals being refirbish ect. Hoping this will fix the problem.

My question is what is causing this problem, and how do I go about finding out the problem. What parts/connections do I look and and where?

Please help with this, it's killing me a lot at the moment.

The other thing is; how do I get the engine codes to come up on the screen? I've tried the press the pedal 10 times, just does nothing..?

Please help guys, I would appericate it a lot!

Thank you.

[DABLACK]

sorry to hear....
coils might be done. check tops of them to see if there are cracks or "foam " bursted out of them





Howzit Guys,

I've had my car for about 3 - 4 Months now. Was given to me by my old man when I moved back to South Africa. Now, I love this car, it's just something about it that I love. :) And me being a very big BMW fan.

Well there are a few problems with this car, and it's really killing me at the moment, it's just sitting there, doing nothing. :(

The problem is lack of power.

I get in the car, turn the key and she turns but won't start, I need to do this three - 4 times to get her started.
Once started she idels at around 900rpm. Seems smooth and quick, like it should be.
Then while in park I give her some revs after she's warmed up and she sounds like a monster ready to go, love the sounds. :)
So I put her into drive and go. This is the problem

She just has no power. On a stright road I'll be going along with my foot flat to the floor and she might get to 80 - 90Km/s she sruggels on hills as well. When going, she'l be slow and sluggish then she'll jerk a little give a kick and she'l pull, like it's meant to be then few seconds later she drops power and there's no power. Then a few seconds later she pulls does what its meant to do then drops again, exacly the same.

So I've taken the fuel pump in at the moment. Will get it back end of next week. It's having new seals being refirbish ect. Hoping this will fix the problem.

My question is what is causing this problem, and how do I go about finding out the problem. What parts/connections do I look and and where?

Please help with this, it's killing me a lot at the moment.

The other thing is; how do I get the engine codes to come up on the screen? I've tried the press the pedal 10 times, just does nothing..?

Please help guys, I would appericate it a lot!

Thank you.

[632 Regal]

your question is not answerable, too many variables. You need to isolate the problem first and then approach it from there, right now it could be LOTS of things.

First thing I would recommend is to at least change the fuel filters first, then check the ignition system, plugs, boots, coils.

Your car may not be able to display codes and you may need to get or take it to a shop that has a Peak code reader.

ps it's 5 times to the floor within 5 seconds of turning the key on.

[Paul in NZ]

while it in the "lose power mode" is it revving like the trans is slipping,or is it going onto three or four cylinders???

[Rob]

sorry to hear....
coils might be done. check tops of them to see if there are cracks or "foam " bursted out of them

Okay, where abouts do I look for the coils. Sorry I'm not 100% on BMW's. :(

Paul in NZ: No, it's like I've taken my foot off the gas and slowing down. But I still had my foot flat on it.

632 Regal: Aparrently my old man has already checked the fuel filters.

Thanks a lot for the help guys, appericate it.

[ajt3nc]

Cat clogged?

[Rob]

Maybe, I'm willing to have a look at anything and try fix it to get it going.
Is it hard to get to the Cat? under the car, right?

[ajt3nc]

The official NC redneck cat test.
Get the car up on ramps and unbolt the exhaust prior to the cat. If it revs up and pisses the neighbors off the cat is most likely okay.
If it still bogs, check the ignition, fuel supply(pump and regulator), and the air filter.

[Rob]

Okay, will try that.

I've sent my fuel pump to be reconditiond new seals ect. Now how do I check the fuel filter and lines also how do I check the fuel injections, and where about are they?

Again, thanks so much for helping, I really appericate it.


Thanks,

Robert. :)

[SharkmanBMW]

bentley required...

[Rob]

bentley required...

huh?

[clhorton]

The Bentley manual for the E34. It is a holy book of us owners. Perfect right up there with the Bible, Koran, Torah.

[joshua43214]

Howzit Guys,

I've had my car for about 3 - 4 Months now. Was given to me by my old man when I moved back to South Africa. Now, I love this car, it's just something about it that I love. :) And me being a very big BMW fan.

Well there are a few problems with this car, and it's really killing me at the moment, it's just sitting there, doing nothing. :(

The problem is lack of power.

I get in the car, turn the key and she turns but won't start, I need to do this three - 4 times to get her started.
Once started she idels at around 900rpm. Seems smooth and quick, like it should be.
Then while in park I give her some revs after she's warmed up and she sounds like a monster ready to go, love the sounds. :)
So I put her into drive and go. This is the problem

She just has no power. On a stright road I'll be going along with my foot flat to the floor and she might get to 80 - 90Km/s she sruggels on hills as well. When going, she'l be slow and sluggish then she'll jerk a little give a kick and she'l pull, like it's meant to be then few seconds later she drops power and there's no power. Then a few seconds later she pulls does what its meant to do then drops again, exacly the same.

So I've taken the fuel pump in at the moment. Will get it back end of next week. It's having new seals being refirbish ect. Hoping this will fix the problem.

My question is what is causing this problem, and how do I go about finding out the problem. What parts/connections do I look and and where?

Please help with this, it's killing me a lot at the moment.

The other thing is; how do I get the engine codes to come up on the screen? I've tried the press the pedal 10 times, just does nothing..?

Please help guys, I would appericate it a lot!

Thank you.

First off, SLOW DOWN and take a deep breath.
You have already started on a path that can lead you to a ton of trouble. The absolute worst thing you can do is start making repairs based on guessing. You have already made one guesse that your fuel pump is at fault, now your car is sitting in-op and you are spending money on something that may or may not have been the problem. New seals on a fuel pump wont fix a broken fuel pump motor, The motor is basicaly the pump, so if your motor is bad, you have wasted money on seals.

The problem or problems you are having can be caused by many different things, and you may have multiple problems.

generaly speaking, there are only 2 reasons a car will not start; no spark, or no fuel. Before you waste any more money, you MUST determine which. Get a repair manual, and read it. The coils in your car can do anything from fry sensitive electrical components to cause your heart to stop. It is a very good idea to check both spark and fuel, never assume that if one is bad the other is ok.

Your description of the problem does include a couple of valuable tid bits. Your car should not be loud, if it sounds like monster ready to go, something is very wrong. Your performance issue (not starting issue) sounds very like a clogged exhaust, probably the cat, but could concievably be the muffler. Normaly a restricted exhaust will not prevent the car from starting, but in extreme cases it can.

Step 1; check your spark, check on atleast 2 cylinders, preferably all 6 but takes more time. Use an extra plug if you don't have the right tool and widden the gap a tiny amount. make sure all your plugs are installed so you don't wind up with 6 little flame throwers when you ignite the air/fuel mixture pumping out of the plug holes.

Step 2; Check fuel pressure (you did hook all the plug wires back up?). Use a T on the fuel line at the regulator, this is best done by cranking the car over to verify the entire system operates properly. Make sure all your hose conections are clamped and only use a high pressure gauge and hoses. After verifing regulated pressure(the pressure should be printed on the regulator in bars), you can check peak pressure by momentarily (and I do stress only for a brief moment) clamping the downstream hose with a pair of pliers. Next check volume, this is best done by by-passing the relay. I can't remember if your model has an outside fuel pump relay or if its internal to the ecm, if its inside the ecm, just crank the engine. You should get a steady flow with no spitting, almost any amount of flow will allow the car to idle.

OK, now you have isolated what basic system is at fault and you can proceed to figuring out why. If both spark and fuel are acceptable, either your exhaust is totaly plugged, or you have a mechanical problem with your engine.

There are still some things that can cause some of your symptoms that the above tests wont cover.
Bad airflow meter, normaly wont cause a no start, but can. unplug it and you should be able start and drive the car off the street and into a parking lot.
Bad coolant temp sensor, car may think its 60 below zero and is constantly flooding it out.
Numerouse other things.

Things to keep in mind;
The computor is almost never at fault.
The engine is almost never at fault.
most car problems have very simple answers.

Judging by the questions you have already asked, I would keep an open mind about letting a BMW person diagnose it, then attempt repairs yourself.

[Rob]

joshua43214 (http://www.bimmer.info/forum/member.php?u=4563)

That's such a big help, thank you so much! :)

I will be getting the fuel pump back end of next week, it's just a service on the pump really. But I'm not tottaly sure how to check everything on there. I will save your whole post and show it to a guy I know who is good with cars. I will also try some of the test you suggested. But I can only do it once my pump is back.

Thank you so much for help. Really appericate it.

Oh also another problem I didn't say was when I parked the car on a slight hill, she wouldn't rev up to more then 2K RPM. And would not revres backwards as she had no power. So I left it for a couple of days, tried again and she reved perfect sounded as she should do and also when i revered backwards she wheel spun. So I am thinking it's to do with fuel?

Could you tell me how to check my sparks, please?

Thanks so much!

[joshua43214]

Sorry, I am sick and my mind is full of mud. I just can't remember for sure what lay out you have. Isn't 1991 the crossover year to the m50 engine? I'll give simple instructions if someone can just remind me if the '91 525i has Direct Ignition or the old cap and rotor set up. All I can picture in my head at the moment is timing belt engines.....

[632 Regal]

Rob, try to get one of these:
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0837603196/crappiefishing/002-1237058-2760856
you will need it sooner or later and it will pay for itself many many times!

[Barry]

Rob,Im in Benoni..If you want Ill have a squizz at your car for you..Your car in South Africa should not have a cat..1991 year model..
A new fuel pump for your car costs about 300 rand..Ive just replaced one on my car.More of a pain in replacing it than actual cost of the pump.
Ive also got the Modic with software for the car.This is a great help..
Pm me,Ill check up tomorrow again.
Barry

[Rob]

Howzit Barry,

Thanks for the offer, I really appericate it a lot. :D

Will PM and email you now. Oh I'm here in South Africa as well.

Thanks man, would be excellent if we can sort something out!

[ArtemLepilov]

Hey - these are the pics of Rob's fuel pump. I say thats the cause of his problem right there. What do you all say?

-Artem

[joshua43214]

OMG! lol please don't tell the pump was in that condition when it was sent out for seals.

[Rob]

That's how I got the pump out of the car dude. My old man has sent it in to be reconditioned...Why you say that?

Do you think this is the problem though?

[SRR2]

If it works better with the cat off, the cat might be BAD. You have that part backwards.

[SRR2]

1990 525 was still the M20, right?

An additional important no-start issue with the M20 -- timing belt. I wonder when his was last changed, if ever. A loose/slipped belt can cause the symptoms he reports.

As a minimum, he should verify cam movement when the starter is running.

[Rob]

Could you tell me how to check the cam for movment ect?

Thanks for the help. :)

[joshua43214]

That's how I got the pump out of the car dude. My old man has sent it in to be reconditioned...Why you say that?

Do you think this is the problem though?

I can't fail to notice that the pump houseing is torn, and the motor portion is cocked off to one side. So you obviously need a new pump houseing. Also since the motor portion has been pulled off center, the motor shaft and accompanying bushings are probably worn as well. This is what in the industry is know as a "bad part". A skilled tech would remonstrate this part for failing to live up to BMW standards, then send it to its room for a well deserved "time out". After an honest talk with the part, the tech would have to accept that with a torn houseing and a worn out motor shaft, this part would never be able to live up to the high standards of BMW. At this point the ecologicaly responsible tech would have it melted down and recycled so that it can be reborn as a new BMW part that has a second chance of realizing its full potential.

[SRR2]

Remove the oil-fill cap. You can see the cam right inside. Crank the car and see if the cam turns. Don't start it! You'll have an oil spray all over the engine room. Search the archives for the two pins in the diagnostic connector that allow you to run the starter without the key. It's a convenient way to jog the engine for what you need or for adjusting the valves.

What's the deal on your belt? Has it ever been changed? Trust me -- they can and DO break if not replaced on schedule. The recomended interval is 60,000 miles IIRC, my 325iX, with the same M20 as your car has, has gotten a new one every 50,000 miles. The consequences of a broken cam drive belt are a trashed top end at a cost of many $$$$$ to repair..

[joshua43214]

I would add to SRR2's post only this item. don't check it for wear, just replace it if you dont know when its was done last. I used to have a pile of belts I would show customers to demonstrate the risk. I have seen dozens of broken belts spanning every type of belt that looked new and had stripped teeth. M20 belt replacement is easy and fast. Don't skimp on the belt either, buy top shelf item for this.

[Rob]

Thanks, SRR2 and Joshua. :)

Well the cam belt did snap. While my old man was driving from Joburg to Durban - 600Ks. Trashed the top end and this cost him R15,000 to fix. So he had it fixed and a new belt. However I will replace that belt again as soon as I can, then I know exacly how many Ks it's done.

Also, my old man took the car is before I got back here, to a guy. And aparrently he fixed a sensor, then the car was back to it's original self, working perfect. Two weeks later it was back to this problem.

See, I'm getting the fuel pump back this weekend. And hopefully it's fixed. However, maybe I am better off not getting it back, and just buying a new one.
See, I'm not 100% sure it is the pump that is causing the problems. I mean I could say, yes it's the pump. Replace it and still get the same problem, then what next?

I appericate all your help guys. And it's helped me a lot. :)

I will do what SRR2 suggested and replace the belt as soon as I can.

When I get the pump I will take another picture of it and show you guys what it looks like now. But it's looking like that's the problem. :(

[632 Regal]

looks good to me... what else could it be?

[Rob]

Maybe a sensor that is faulty or gone?

[632 Regal]

that pump has totally bit the dust man, it will be much cheaper to replace it than to rebuild the broken and worn parts. Look at the picture again, study it and then you might see what we are seeing.

Sorry for my sarcasm but thats my nature and hoped you would see through that, again im sorry. I can bet that is the whole problem just by looking at it, a picture is a good thing.

[Rob]

Not a problem, I took it that way, so no offence taken! :)

Well my old man seems to think 99% it's not the pump, as he took the car into a guy who aparrently cleaned a sensor, then the car drove like it should. Two weeks later it went back to it's original self. So I don't know. Obviously I'm saying fuel pump. But I can't find another fuel pump here in SA that has the top lid and plastice tube and wires ect that I need. So I will fit the pump back try it. Have no luck, take it to a garage and see what he says. If he says fuel pump, then I will go and buy a new one and use the old top lid and tube ect of my old one.

Sound good, Jeff, or am I going about this completly wrong?

Thanks again. And don't apologise to me, you've been a great help! ;)

[genphreak]

Be4 you can blame the pump you need to test the fuel pressure and the pressure regulator, perhaps other things. To be truthful there are so many other things it could be,- filter, dirty fuel, rusty tank, bad fuel, return-valve that supply the fuel pressure and then there are all the other things within the fuel injection itself.

The way to do this is to buy a Bently manual and a few other things you might need from Amazon or www.bmaparts.com (they sell BMW parts too) and ship very fast using USPS Airmail (10 days to Oz) but often it only takes a few.

The Bently tells you not just what to check, but how to do it and what you need. Do this ASAP and save kicking yourself later on for missing something that that would have made plain and simple weeks ago. I know it sounds like we all know what to tell you so you can just repair/replace something and be done. It is also easy to screw things up due to the way the cars are made- that are not friendly to trained mechanics let alone owners. They are so many things you must test anyway even if we did give you a list of things to change, we could still miss the real problem or not be specific enough to really help out.

Get a Bently and follow the procedures then let us know how the test results and observations- that way we can help specifically on anything that might seem obscure.

I hope this doesn't sound elitist but I really think its good advice from what you have said so far. Life would be far simpler if every old bimmer came with a Bently manual. still, its just my 2c worth :) Nick

[Rob]

Thanks, genphreak (http://www.bimmer.info/forum/member.php?u=2138). :)

Well I get the pump back tomorrow and hopefully it will fix the problem, however if it doesn't I'm going to take it to the garage it went to before and tell them to do it right this time. And relpace whatever needs replacing.

You see, I'm in South Africa. So to get that manual shipped here will be a mission in its self. :(

[genphreak]

Thanks, genphreak (http://www.bimmer.info/forum/member.php?u=2138). :)

Well I get the pump back tomorrow and hopefully it will fix the problem, however if it doesn't I'm going to take it to the garage it went to before and tell them to do it right this time. And relpace whatever needs replacing.

You see, I'm in South Africa. So to get that manual shipped here will be a mission in its self. :(You can't get it posted succesfully? We buy them from the US in Aus, I guess you have trouble at your end? What about having it posted to your bank or soemthing.... I dunno... there must be a way, maybe email the publishers tell tehm your problem and ask for a downloadable pdf copy instead... if they bothered they could do this, its surpirsing what is going on in publishing these days, some of them have their act toegther.

[Rob]

Postal service this end sucks big time, bru. Might have to get a CD of it off Ebay, send it to my moth in the Uk and she can email it to me.

[zhandax]

Does DHL or FedEx deliver down there? If its the post and not customs, this might do the trick.

[Rob]

Would cost me about 1K for that dude. Not paying the amout for a book. :(

[zhandax]

Wow, I just checked FedEx's rates to Capstadt.
Plan B: Amazon.com shows expedited (1-3 weeks) to South Africa for $10.99 (books).

[Rob]

I live in Durban dude. :)

[zhandax]

It just occured to me that Global Priority would probably deliver to your postal service which would not fix the problem on your end. Might be worth an email to Amazon to see who the carrier is for their expidited serivce, though.

[Rob]

Could I not pay someone on here to scan their book and send it to me over email?

[zhandax]

Dude, its 63mb.

[Rob]

My email can handel that dude, no problem.
To make it smaller, putting it into a zip and compressing it will shave a fe MB off it?

[Mozarts_Ghost]

My email can handel that dude, no problem.
To make it smaller, putting it into a zip and compressing it will shave a fe MB off it?

Get your pick-up sensors checked :), altho I must agree with the rest of the guys. your petrol pump looks very dodgy ! need to get that fixed. Glad to see I'm not the only E34 Fan here in Gauteng :)

I'm in Centurion, I wanna check your car some time.... should meet up or something.

Greets
Mozarts_Ghost.

[Rob]

Hey, another South African on here, lekker. :D

Ya, that sounds good, bru. I'll PM you now anyway. ;)

[Rob]

Also, what do you mean, "Pick-Up Sensors" ?

Thanks man. :)

[emw525E34]

Rob, that rev "limited" issue looks similar to the coil problem I had years ago. You see, when the coil heats up, it stops functioning. Mine was 3K rpm then. Would work well cold, then the car practically died and when I left it for 15 mins, it was fine again. In my case, I was in the race track, the car stopped twice at the same spot, then I limped back to the pits and got a tech to look at it. Yes, it was the Coil ok. Put in an Alfa Romeo coil and it worked better. My ignition cables were also going south then as it gave the Tech a nasty shock when he was poking around the top of the cylinder head. I got new BMW coil and Ignition wires and the car ran fine after that. Sure was a tricky one and not a usual suspect.
Your engine is M20B25 right ?.

[emw525E34]

Rob. keep posting your observations. I think the collective brains here can help you faster than a Bentley+time+ effort and probably with less argony. Most of us went thru the period of "knowing the car" intimately, then drive the daylights out of it and repeating the process. Heck, I got two E34 with different engine types and tranny types just to enjoy the difference, plus the occasional DIYs can be very satisfying at times. Mostly a bit of a chore as the car aged. But when you switched new suspension parts, it seems to "come alive" again in a different way. Very spirited vehicle, I would say.

[Rob]

Wow, thanks, emw525E34. :)

I'm putting the battery in the car this afternoon. Going to test again and see what happens. I've just got the fuel pump back as well. Also managed to get a copy of the Bentely manual, if I need it. This Sunday I'm doing a lot of work on my car. I've made a big list of all the things and little hings that need checking. Next month she;s getting an oil changed as well.

The rev limiter, urm, I that problem only lasted and acurred once since I've had the car. Listen, once I'm home I'll run a few more tests and post my results tomorrow morning as well.

I want to put new suspension in there, but my main point of focuse right now is to get the power back into the engine. :)

Very nice reply from you, appericate it.
What's your real name, if you don't mind me asking?

Thank you. ;)

Edit: Yes, it's the 2.5L, 6 Cylinder M20 engine.

[Toeks]

Hi Rob.

Seems you're having a torrid time getting your beemer going. Take my word, its worth it. I have the Bentley manual in electronic format, PM me and I'll see what I can do.

Keep at this forum bro, you wont be sorry. I knew NOTHING about cars let alone my BMW when I first visited here a few months ago. With all the guys help, knowledge and willingness to teach I've since successfully installed/fixed/cleaned many things on my car. Its saved tons of money, time and its actually brought out the mechanic in me I didn't know was there.

Groete van Alberton.

[Mozarts_Ghost]

http://www.bimmer.info/forum/showthread.php?t=2563
Rob, Check out this thread. thats what I was talking about.

that same thing broke on my car.

MG.

[632 Regal]

Rob, can you post a picture of the fuel pump once you get it back? I would like to look at it.

[Rob]

Thanks for helping guys, I really appericate this.

Well got her started last night. Let her idel for 20 minutes. Then once engine was warmed up, I tried to give her some revs. No go, she won't rev to more or past 2K 2.5K RPM. Even pedal floored, she just won't rev at all! :(
This might be a coil?
Jeff, will remove fuel pump on Sunday and get a picture for you.

Thank you so much guys, I really appericate the help here!

[Rob]

I also tested the coil this morning with a voltage meter. It read 12.39V

[Rob]

Also got a small video of the rev counter and engine on. Will send to anyone who wants to see it

[Rob]

Was poking around the engine last night. And was two loose connectors. Would these caus any problems or should there be some loose wires? Also I looked in the box next the air filter, and I think the High Speed or Normal Speed relay is blown. Again, what does that do and would it cause these problems?

Going to do a lot of testing tomorrow. And will let you know what the results are.

Thanks guys!

[Rob]

Decided, I'm going to put for fuel in her. Get it started and take it into a garage. Otherwise I'm going to be here for ever with a car with no power.

Thank you for all the help guys, I really appericte it a lot!

[emw525E34]

Yeah Rob. Consensus is the pump looks real bad. ripped bottom end. Maybe , you should check out some junkyards to get a used one from a newer beemer. I guess they are about the same. Well, these aged cars will be sequential issues coming back to back fairly soon. Once the basics are addressed and fixed , you will get the hang of things.

I am Frankie. emw is my car plate which is an 89 E34 M20B25 engine.

[Mozarts_Ghost]

Hi Rob

I have a fuel pump that we can test in your car, if u want. we can swop/try some parts from my car to your car. I have a grudge against garages. I get schnaked every time I go to one. Every Single Time. so I don't mind helping out. Let me know. I'm not doing anything tommorow, *saterday*

Greetings.
MG


Decided, I'm going to put for fuel in her. Get it started and take it into a garage. Otherwise I'm going to be here for ever with a car with no power.

Thank you for all the help guys, I really appericte it a lot!

[Rob]

Hey there,

Thanks a lot for offering to help. I really do appericate it a lot.

Well I'm working today until 1Pm will be back home just after that anyhow. However I'm not too sure when or if you can make it today.

If you can my cell phone number is: 0765121810
Just let me know if you can. A sms or something and I'll sms you back with plans ect.

I also managed to get a copy of the Bentely Service Manual on my pc at home. So I will be working as much as I can on the car today when I get home.

Like I say just ket me know. If you can't do it today then sms me and hopefully we can make another time for it to be done?

Thank you for your help.
Won't be going to the garage until I hear from you and end of this month.

Another thing I should tell you is, before I came back to South Africa, my old man took the car to the garage and the guy said it was a sensor, aparrently he fixed it and the car drove as good as new. Two weeks later it went back to what it's doing now. She also won't start on the first turn it's normally the 4th or so. Maybe the pump is not giving the right pressure, I don't know.

Anyway, let me know either way.

Thanks again!

[genphreak]

Keep it up fellas.... you'll prevail with a little care and attention.
Gee, we're sure glad you got that Bently Rob, I guess you must have figured out WinRar okay... :) Nick

[Rob]

Ya, that manual is great, told me so much about the car I didn't know. :D

I really appericate all the help I've recevied off this forum. Thank you so much guys!
Going home in 50 minutes and going to do a lot of testing and working on the car, try and see if I can find the fault using Bentely! :)

[zhandax]

Start by finding out where the two loose wires go. They may have a bend 'set' in them to help you unless someone bent them out of the way. You have a digital camera?

[emw525E34]

Hi Rob, so it will still not go beyond 2.5K rpm. What happens at the edge of 2.5K to 2.6K ?. Does it cut off abruptly or gradually reduce power ?.

If the coil were bad, after warmup, it will stall the engine. So its probably not the coil, it seems like fuel or air related. Lets check the intake. check that your air filter box and filter is clean. At least give the filter a good dusk/shake and clean the interior. Check for leaves/gunk in there. Also, check your AFM pins with DVM. Clean the AFM insides but do not take it apart yet. Its tricky and you could actually break something if you attempt to pry open the based of the AFM. Check for air leaks in the intake elbow. That rubber black curved tube from AFM to the throttle body.
(Might be a hole there or cracks. Try taping them with duck-tape if you found some leaks. You can replace the part later.
My M20 car had a serious leak about a month ago which almost stalled the car at 4K rpm. It will work perfectly until 4K and when I reached that, it coughs badly and almost stalled. A good clean and clamping that tube fixed my problem. I could redline it like I normally do.

Good luck.

PS: Oh, when was the last time your dad changed the fuel filter ?. That could be a culprit if it were clogged out badly. It will restrict fuel flow and cause the same symptom. This part is cheap and easy to replace. Its at the rear of the axle (not the mufler side, opposite side. You need to jack up the car to get under it and release a couple of clamps. Take a pencil to stick into the inlet fuel pipe while you remove that clamp or else fuel will flow all over the place!.

[Rob]

Howzit Guys,

I'm syarting to think it's still the pump. I put more fuel in her the other night, and she jumped to life. She only starts on the 4th turn of key, still. But she's revving perfect now. All I did was add fuel?

Will read the above posts just now. :)

Thanks a lot guys!

[Rob]

Start by finding out where the two loose wires go. They may have a bend 'set' in them to help you unless someone bent them out of the way. You have a digital camera?

Which wires, bru?

I have camera, yes. So can take photos of anything you guys need/want to see. :)