Rear main seal leak again

[Hypr5]

Hello guys,

My rear main seal was leaking, so I went ahead and replaced it - and it started leaking again. When I replaced it, I torque all bolts to spec. When I got back under the car, what I found was a bolt that felt "loose"
http://img79.imageshack.us/img79/9265/rms9hu.jpg
The bolt I am talking about isn't pictured, but it's the one that goes up from the bottom of the engine and up into this piece. Anyway - I went to go tighten it and without much force at all, the long bolt snapped and it fell onto the ground with half of it's threads still inside. The oil was coming from around this area, too. Have any of you had an issue like this? It's ridiculous, I really would rather not drop the trans again over something like this.

[dbals]

I have some interest in your rear main seal replacement as I know mine is leaking.......what info might you be able to pass along. I know I am going to need to do a clutch replacement this summer and I am trying to push all that maintanance until then. What all gaskets did you replace? As far a a bolt breaking off.....that really sucks. The only way I know to fix somthing like that without droping the tranny again would be to tap it with something smaller and then use a higher grade bolt in its place, thats if you can get to it to tap it.
-drew

[Hypr5]

Well, a tap would be wonderful, but it would have to be over 4" long. I thought about an easy-out, also - but I know there aren't any long ones. Maybe I can have someone weld an EZ-out to a metal dowel of the same diameter. lol. Any way I can do it without dropping that thing again would be great.


As for the rear main, I replaced the flywheel bolts for good measure. I Just needed a rear main seal and the gasket (which is also pictured in the above post) However, as far as general maintenance while your down there, check the guibo - replace if necessary, same for the center bearing. Since you have to drop the exhaust, it's nice to use new locking nuts on the manifold studs. It's also recommended (but im not sure how necessary) to use new locking nuts at the driveshaft ends.

Hope that helps a little bit-and I hope you have better luck with it than I did this time around. I've done the job before on another m50 with great success, but this one - I wasn't so lucky. :( Usually, it's pretty straight-forward though.

Also - when you replace the gasket around the rear main, I found that there are two different kinds. One is paper and one is metal. Make sure you research the one you need and get the right one. I had the whole thing ready to go and then I tried to line up the gasket and it wasn't quite right. It took some time and some research, along with a trip to BMW to make it right again. It sucks to have to interrupt your work!

Good luck. :)

[Dave M]

Hello guys,

http://img79.imageshack.us/img79/9265/rms9hu.jpg
The bolt I am talking about isn't pictured, but it's the one that goes up from the bottom of the engine and up into this piece.

I assume you're working on the e39. Is it a similar layout to the M50? If it is, the bolt "that goes up from the bottom" would be an oil pan bolt, would it not? If thats the case, it would help explain the oil leakage in the vicinity.

Possibly, by dropping the oil pan, you could extract the remnants (hopefully a portion is poking out), get another one and move on.

Anyhow, good luck with it,

Dave M

[joshua43214]

Here is a trick I have used many times that actualy works. Get a couple of cans of brake clean, make sure you get the kind that have a straw. its important you use stuff that leaves no residue. keep spraying it up in th ehole and use compressed air to clear it out, make sure its totaly clean and oil free. Take a long bolt or metal rod and grind it to a flat point about 3/32 accross. Get some high quality instant adhesive from a hobby store, the super market stuff is junk. Get thick slow drying stuff. put a drop in the bolt and hold it in there for about 5 minutes. dont woble it or shift it. prop it up on something if needed. as long as the threaded portion doesnt have a spur or over stretched threads, it will unscrew with a bit of care.

I know it sounds really goofy, but I have done this countless times when I worked on Saabs, and have since used in on many other vehicles.

[Hypr5]

To everybody who has contributed, thank you so much.

It's not on the e39, its actually on the e34 w/ m50tu.
I never thought of it as being an oil pan bolt. I really didn't pay attention. It very very well might be, though. I thought that the oil pan ended sooner, but I may be wrong. All I can really remember is that there are 2 long bolts (about 4.5") that go up from the bottom and into the cover which holds the actual seal.

Also - thank you for the glue idea. Do you have any recommendations on a brand that you actually prefer over others?

[632 Regal]

I like this trick!

Here is a trick I have used many times that actualy works. Get a couple of cans of brake clean, make sure you get the kind that have a straw. its important you use stuff that leaves no residue. keep spraying it up in th ehole and use compressed air to clear it out, make sure its totaly clean and oil free. Take a long bolt or metal rod and grind it to a flat point about 3/32 accross. Get some high quality instant adhesive from a hobby store, the super market stuff is junk. Get thick slow drying stuff. put a drop in the bolt and hold it in there for about 5 minutes. dont woble it or shift it. prop it up on something if needed. as long as the threaded portion doesnt have a spur or over stretched threads, it will unscrew with a bit of care.

I know it sounds really goofy, but I have done this countless times when I worked on Saabs, and have since used in on many other vehicles.

[Hypr5]

If somebody here knows the bolt that I am talking about, can you confirm if it is in-fact an oil pan bolt?

Thank you!

[Dave M]

If somebody here knows the bolt that I am talking about, can you confirm if it is in-fact an oil pan bolt?

Thank you!

There are TWO oil pan bolts that travel through the block in that location. With a manual tranny attached, they are visible only through two small 'indents' the bell housing. If you have a leak in the vicinity, I'd put my money on the oil pan leaking, not the main seal.

Drop the pan and get the broken end out.

Good Luck,

Dave M

[Hypr5]

I've never had to drop the pan on this car - how time consuming is it on this one?

[Dave M]

Do you have a Bentleys?

I've never dropped one with the engine in place, but i believe you need to either lift the engine a tad or remove the front crossmember. Either way, you're into a good portion of a day if you've never done it.

good luck,

Dave M

[Hypr5]

Yeah, I have the bentley, but when looking through it I get impatient. lol.
Didn't find anything on the oil pan removal. I figured I'd have to lower the cross member or something. :( What a pain.

Also - I noticed at BMA, there are two different types of oil pan gaskets - paper and metal / rubber. Which is the better one?

[Dave M]

Yeah, I have the bentley, but when looking through it I get impatient. lol.
Didn't find anything on the oil pan removal. I figured I'd have to lower the cross member or something. :( What a pain.

Also - I noticed at BMA, there are two different types of oil pan gaskets - paper and metal / rubber. Which is the better one?

If your car has been reasonably maintained (bolts aren't frozen), the job should not be too much of a chore. The procedure IS in the Bentley manual on Page 119-5.

There are no tasks a DIYer can't accomplish. Theres just not a lot of room to play with down there. While bentley does not suggest lifting the engine, its easy to do after loosening a couple extra 17mm bolts and will provide you with much more room.

Oh, and purchase the metal/rubber gasket and some permatex, blue gasket sealer stuff (hylomar).

Anyhow, stop procrastinating ;) and go for it. we're here to help.

Dave M

[Hypr5]

Haha, thanks so much for the reply. Very helpful for sure.
I get kind of 'burnt out' on these things. I had to do the driveshaft twice and the trans within the month. <sigh>

Thanks again, I'll get started soon. :)