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View Full Version : Time for new control arms?



zhandax
03-26-2006, 09:15 PM
I am trying to decide if following the contours in the road is the result of deteriorating control arms or the Dunlop tires that came with the car. I do not have the other symptoms of bad control arms yet such as poor handling or a 55mph shimmy. Since it rolled past 129k Friday, I guess the mileage is right for replacement.

I see that a lot of you replaced the springs along with the control arms. Is this because they actually go bad, or is it an upgrage?

ajt3nc
03-26-2006, 10:19 PM
My 89 had 225/65/15 dunlops which were worn, no bad, but was scary on certain roads.
I replaced the thrust arms which helped but new tires really made a difference. You may be able to eyeball the bushing and look for rips as you could see them on my old ones.

zhandax
03-26-2006, 11:08 PM
These Dunlops looked almost new when I got the car, but the front end was out of alignment and the 1100 mile drive home cupped the tread a bit. The tires were rotated and reversed when I had it aligned.

I use 'control arms' to refer to both the control arms and the thrust arms. Am I correct in assuming that they both need to be replaced? If not, which one goes first? On the E28 I found it was cheaper to replace both at the same time instead of getting two alignments within 20k miles but those arms were about $50 each. Who has the best deal on these (Lemforders)? Also, I assume since I have seen no one post about this that the ball joints cannot be replaced in the arms? I have a 4lb hand sledge leftover from replacing the balljoints on the Mercedes.

zhandax
03-31-2006, 05:55 PM
Any 540s with replacement springs? Upgrade or maintanence?

Evan
03-31-2006, 06:53 PM
JohnTee and a few other people have replaced springs and shocks on their 540. I'm shopping for shocks and springs now, among other things. Someone will respond to you soon

632 Regal
03-31-2006, 08:42 PM
springs are upgrade to lower the car, dont use BAW or Voghtland springs as the V8 will be too low.

Any 540s with replacement springs? Upgrade or maintanence?

MBXB
04-01-2006, 01:46 AM
I'd start with the 'control arms' and the steering linkage. Changing both should tighten up your steering a lot. And don't forget the 'nut behind the wheel'.

zhandax
04-01-2006, 03:31 AM
Do you recommend doing all 4 plus the tie rods at the same time?

337090535auctionprice
04-01-2006, 08:04 AM
hey where is the nut behind the wheel what size is it use a ratchet for it

joshua43214
04-01-2006, 09:10 AM
Do you recommend doing all 4 plus the tie rods at the same time?

Unless you have money to burn, I would recomend finding out what part is bad and replacing that.

zhandax
04-01-2006, 09:19 AM
joshua, thats why I am asking. On a lot of bimmers, they all go within 10-20k miles of each other. Around here, an alignment costs almost as much as a control arm. And I did spoil one nearly new tire by changing a control arm and waiting a few thousand miles before having it aligned.

MBXB
04-01-2006, 09:31 AM
I did all 4 arms, tie rods, center link, idler arm, sway bar links, and brakes at the same time. I figured since I had the car up, tools in hand, I may as well be done with the whole front end.

zhandax
04-01-2006, 11:05 AM
I lean the same way, except the brakes were redone by the stealer about 15K miles ago (and they grab at final lockdown). I really just wanted some confirmation I wasn't nuts to do the same thing I did to the E28 at about the same mileage (+-130K) at (for a 540) twice the price. I see that these arms are larger than the E28, but does Lemforder charge by the pound?

joshua43214
04-01-2006, 12:44 PM
joshua, thats why I am asking. On a lot of bimmers, they all go within 10-20k miles of each other. Around here, an alignment costs almost as much as a control arm. And I did spoil one nearly new tire by changing a control arm and waiting a few thousand miles before having it aligned.

Short lesson on what goes on in far too many alignment shops. The "tech" looks at tire wear to determine if any thing major is wrong. sets up the aligment machine, leans on the car to push things out of spec a decent amount(hits save), sets the toe in, pushs on the car to bring other specs into green hits save again and ships the car. Horrified? I am really sorry but this is standard proceedure in most shops that are not top shelf places.

Most mechanics are paid flat rate, and most are paid poorly. The chain shops and tire stores are the worst for paying technicians. Well paid techs gravitate to high end shops, very very few are willing to work in a tire store, let alone a national chain. Now take your average alignment "tech" he is paid maybe $15.00/flate rate hour if he is lucky. His boss pays anything from 7/10-1 hour if he works in a discount tire shop for alignment. How much time do you really think he spent working on your car? trust me, he can get your car on and off the rack in 20minutes and hand you a sheet showing a full 4 wheel alignment when he has nothing but tweak the toe and maybe not even that. If you are the kind of customer that likes to hover arround and watch, the service writer will usualy warn him and he will dally about cursing so you think you spent your money well.

A good alignent on any car takes time. No shop can make money on a $50.00 alignment, let alone a lifetime aignment, if they are really aligning the car. They are using it as a lost leader to sell you repairs.

the 3 most commonly recomended suspension parts for replacement are all fixed length. In other words, if the alignment is wrong due to your thrust arm or lower control arm being worn, replacing it will return the car to alignment. If the car continues to have camber/caster issues, then some other part is worn. Checking the alignment once the car has some miles is good, but don't fool yourself about what you are getting. Oh, you say, my camber and caster where way off and now it is correct after alignment, the tech hung on the sway bar to load the suspension to bring it into spec.

If any of you work in a high end tire shop or alignment shop, this oviously does not aply to you. Most cities have atleast one good tire/alignment shop. If you live Columbus Ohio, E.T. Paul Tires does a nice job and is familiar with euro cars. If the shop lot does not have a high percentage of Euro cars, find one that does.

Kalevera
04-01-2006, 12:51 PM
Unless you have money to burn, I would recomend finding out what part is bad and replacing that.
Joshua, that logic doesn't work around here some of the time, sad to say ;)

best, whit

zhandax
04-01-2006, 01:52 PM
Hey guys, around here an alignment is $80. Good, bad or otherwise. I made it a point to get to know the guys who do the work and I don't take a car in unless it is out of alignment.

Whit, if you mean I can just replace the one arm and not need another within a year, I will be under the car with the channel locks tomorrow to find out which. Also, keep in mind this is the end of my first full year of normal mileage. For the previous 5 years, I put about 40K miles a year on the E28 which is why it retired with 320K miles. I am still working on getting out of that mindset. Gives you a whole 'nother perspective on automotive maintanence.

Once again, that is why I am asking.