Seeking help: Air Conditioner issue

[nyc525iTe34]

Hi,

I have 1993 525i Touring (e34) and was hoping someone could offer some quick problem solving. Any advice is greatly appreciated.

Thanks.


The problem:
When the Air Conditioner is on (and snowflake AC button is pressed) the fan works but there is very little (if any) cool air. I tried running the AC for the first time this spring and was unable to get any cool air after running it for 1 hour (while driving). About 6 months ago I replaced the resistor pack and that seemed to correct the fan issue I had. Would you have any idea of what is causing the AC to not work properly?

Not sure if this is related but during the winter every time I put the heat on I would hear an initial click (once) and then the heat would go on perfectly fine. Is this related to the AC? Compressor related?

Possible solutions:
* Refrigerant - maybe the solution is as easy as simply replacing/recharging the refrigerant. The car is old and i'm not sure when the last time the refrigerant was replaced (or indeed if the refrigerant has to ever be replaced).

* Low freon?

* Replace the compressor - maybe the problem is with a faulty compressor (might this account for the initial clicking I hear when I put the heat on?). Perhaps the compressor clutch is failing to engage when i turn the ac on?

* fuse?

[Blitzkrieg Bob]

I'd get it hooked up to a guage manifold and filled with some freon and dye, to check for leaks

[632 Regal]

does it blow air? can you hear the fan?

[nyc525iTe34]

Yes, the fan works on all power settings. I replaced the resistor pack about 6 months ago to correct an earlier fan issue.

I am hearing a noise difference when I press the snowflake AC option but no cool air comes out. The air is not hot when the ac is on either.

[SRR2]

Does the compressor run when you turn on the a/c? You know that if it's cold outside, the thermostat in the plenum won't turn on the compressor. I'm not sure the exact set point, but it's probably somewhere around 50F.

Refrigerant does not wear out. Freon is a Dupont brand name for one type of refrigerant.

[nyc525iTe34]

In response to SSR2 - the temperature was above 50F yesterday when I tried running the AC. I am not sure how much above 50F it was but the temp outside could possibly be the cause of my lack of AC.

Today will be about 68F so the AC should kick in today. I have to drive about 2 hours so I'll give an update at the end of the day to let you guys know if the problem is sensor-related.

Thanks!

[pgrindstaff]

The other day I noticed that my AC did not work. The fan comes on but thats about it. I pressed the snowflake button and nothing changed that I could tell. I'm thinking that the system needs to be charged but I am unsure if a 530ia manufactured in 3/93 uses R12 or R134a.

Thanks for the help

[ThoreauHD]

I went to the shop today having the same symptoms you do. They quoted me $1800 for a leak on low side A line and at the evaporator. Need to replace evaporator, rec/drier, and a/c lines.

Talk about make you feel sick.. ehh.. I wish there was a cheaper way to fix the thing.

[Blitzkrieg Bob]

Parts are reasonable, just need to understand basic refrigeration.

Do the work and have a shop do the evacuation and recharge.

I'd fill it with some refrigerant and dye to make sure you catch all the leaks before buying any parts.

[Bill R.]

a group of cfc's not just one refrigerant.. virtually all of dupont's refrigerants carry the tradename freon such as r12,r22,r500,r502 etc, etc. And actually the compressor will run if its cold out such as in the defrost mode for the windshield, it will just short cycle since the suction pressure will be so low at a lower ambient and the head pressure will also be way down




Does the compressor run when you turn on the a/c? You know that if it's cold outside, the thermostat in the plenum won't turn on the compressor. I'm not sure the exact set point, but it's probably somewhere around 50F.

Refrigerant does not wear out. Freon is a Dupont brand name for one type of refrigerant.

[ThoreauHD]

The parts are reasonable.. And if you have any links on A/C work, I'd be happy to see them. I can't seem to check Bruno's site, as it looks down.

[Bill R.]

92, you can have the lines redone for about 50 at a a/c shop. The factory labor for changing the evaporator is 3.1 hrs and add another hour for changing the lines and filter/drier... evacuate and charge system figure another hour max.. figure 6 hours as a fair estimate plus app. 360 for all parts and refrigerant... somebodies making a whopper of a profit on that job..



I went to the shop today having the same symptoms you do. They quoted me $1800 for a leak on low side A line and at the evaporator. Need to replace evaporator, rec/drier, and a/c lines.

Talk about make you feel sick.. ehh.. I wish there was a cheaper way to fix the thing.

[Bill R.]

134a in it for the summer. 10.99 a can is a whole lot cheaper each summer than 1800



I went to the shop today having the same symptoms you do. They quoted me $1800 for a leak on low side A line and at the evaporator. Need to replace evaporator, rec/drier, and a/c lines.

Talk about make you feel sick.. ehh.. I wish there was a cheaper way to fix the thing.

[Blitzkrieg Bob]

Ebay for parts.

I found an exact replacements for my compressor, condenser and drier off of Ebay. spent less than $500.00. 1990 M20 525 (didn't want to "adapt" a new set up)

Just make sure you know what your parts look like and part # s, so you don't have a bad experience half way into it. Email the seller, or call them...most of the good ones are A/C shops and with a little communication can send the right stuff.

As far as refrigeration goes…I have found lots of info from searches.
Just replace a the O rings on anything you touch, be clean, just in case have extra O rings many sizes and the proper material so you don’t get stuck.

[ThoreauHD]

I don't reckon it's a small leak. It holds for about a month from what I can tell. I just had it recharged last month. 2 lbs worth. Hmm.. these guys charge 60 per hour. So at your estimate, with the 10% discount, it should hover around.. $360 labor + $330 parts= $690 != $1800. Ugh.

I have a mechanic friend that could do this and I can get the parts at discount. I think that might be worth a proper shot.

I'm a computer guy, so while I was quite comfortable replacing a ROM chip on the ECU, I'm not so sure about doing compressed gas lines for the first time on my bmw. Thanks for the kick in the right direction Bill and Bob.

[ThoreauHD]

Oh, and if worse comes to worst, I can always just pop another can of juice in.

[Blitzkrieg Bob]

To keep my system pressurized until I could locate all the parts and time to fix it.

But if your evaporator is leaky...then I would not keep filling it up, cause it's leaking out into the cabin for you to breath.

[Bill R.]

evaporator job... besides a mercedes sl or a volvo 850 that is...like this..http://www.bimmernut.com/%7Ebillr/images2/850volvo2.jpg



I don't reckon it's a small leak. It holds for about a month from what I can tell. I just had it recharged last month. 2 lbs worth. Hmm.. these guys charge 60 per hour. So at your estimate, with the 10% discount, it should hover around.. $360 labor + $330 parts= $690 != $1800. Ugh.

I have a mechanic friend that could do this and I can get the parts at discount. I think that might be worth a proper shot.

I'm a computer guy, so while I was quite comfortable replacing a ROM chip on the ECU, I'm not so sure about doing compressed gas lines for the first time on my bmw. Thanks for the kick in the right direction Bill.

[Blitzkrieg Bob]

took 9 hours and a saw.

Didn't want to remove the driver's side stuff and steering column, so cut the plenum in half to replace just the evaporator, and leave the heater side alone…God, I hate that van.

[Paul in NZ]

and once you hve had the a/c fixed run it regularly......stops the seals drying out and losing refrigerant

[ThoreauHD]

As an update I fixed the cooling leak on the A/C with another mechanic.

I replaced just the valve stem($5.00) on the a/c low side. They seem to fail on this model for some reason. After that I did one of these:

http://www.id-usa.com/product.asp?CID=31&PID=105
$10.00

and then one of these:

http://www.id-usa.com/product.asp?CID=28&PID=217
$40.00

Now I have no leaks. Ain't that a kicker.

Seems to not want to cool as much at idle so I think I'll be replacing the auxillary fan resistor shortly. Thanks for the help fellas.

[SchnellE34]

Your repair went from $1800 down to $45? **** man, you lucked out. I just might have to save this thread and give those products a shot to fix my leaks.

[ThoreauHD]

Yea, I was impressed. I also half-expected it. O-Rings get worn and valve stems go bad typically. But the rest is running fine. The compressor, and the lot. I should have replaced the drier while I was doing this though. Maybe next time.

So, I don't know if my BMW mechanic was trying to rip me off or if he was just being thorough.. get it.. thorough.. heh.. anyway.. I brought it to a christian mechanic and he just went one step at a time and so now it works for 60 bucks and his labor. A lifesaver to be sure. So there you have it. Low side valve stem, 134a, and maybe a drier for good luck and it's done.

[BillionPa]

first thing you need to do is

REPLACE THE MICROFILTER!!!

[trumpetr]

Hi,

I have 1993 525i Touring (e34) and was hoping someone could offer some quick problem solving. Any advice is greatly appreciated.

Thanks.


The problem:
When the Air Conditioner is on (and snowflake AC button is pressed) the fan works but there is very little (if any) cool air. I tried running the AC for the first time this spring and was unable to get any cool air after running it for 1 hour (while driving). About 6 months ago I replaced the resistor pack and that seemed to correct the fan issue I had. Would you have any idea of what is causing the AC to not work properly?

Not sure if this is related but during the winter every time I put the heat on I would hear an initial click (once) and then the heat would go on perfectly fine. Is this related to the AC? Compressor related?

Possible solutions:
* Refrigerant - maybe the solution is as easy as simply replacing/recharging the refrigerant. The car is old and i'm not sure when the last time the refrigerant was replaced (or indeed if the refrigerant has to ever be replaced).

* Low freon?

* Replace the compressor - maybe the problem is with a faulty compressor (might this account for the initial clicking I hear when I put the heat on?). Perhaps the compressor clutch is failing to engage when i turn the ac on?

* fuse?


I had the same issue with my 95 525----turned on the AC, and no cold. Fan blew fine,,and could hear the compressor kicking in.
Took it in for a recharge, and some UV dye added,,,,,a week later,,,no more cold. Checking with an UV light, showed two little leak holes on the condensor. So,,need a new condensor and of course a dryer and the o rings,,,,,was quoted 900-- most of the cost is for the 4-5 hrs labor they saiid is needed to get to the condensor and drier.(that and 40 bucks a pound for r134. (the shops around here are charging 40 bucks a pound for r134,,,more for r12.) Hmm,,,ive seen kegs of r134 on flea bay, going for around $156, for a 30 lg keg.

Sounds like you need to first have some refrig. put in with some dye,,,,,run it for a while,,then have it checked for leaks with the UV light, to start with.
The UV dye leak test will save you guessing, and grief.

Regards---

Art.