tools for changing the timing belt

[old bob]

I am about to get my timing belt changed but have been told that a couple of special tools are required. Never heard of this before can anyone enlighten me

[winfred]

you don't need anything other then a set of metric wrenches and sockets, the weirdest thing on there is the 32mm on the fan clutch, 2.5mm allen on the rotor if it's bosch and 3mm if it's the crap aftermarket italian rotor

[old bob]

you don't need anything other then a set of metric wrenches and sockets, the weirdest thing on there is the 32mm on the fan clutch, 2.5mm allen on the rotor if it's bosch and 3mm if it's the crap aftermarket italian rotor
Thanks Winfed how long should it take to do the job. It gives me the s..ts that you have to check everthing out nowdays so we don't get ripped off.

[winfred]

takes me a couple hours to do belt tensioner and water pump on a m20

[Kalevera]

Book is 3 hours for the belt itself, I think. Don't know the specifics on the water pump. If doing it yourself without prior experience, allocate a weekend, especially if the car's been subject to rust. Otherwise, a shop should charge something around 4 hours for the job, or less if they're nice. It's not a complicated job -- a money maker on the ETAs, as it can be done in less than half an hour. I motors take a coupla hours.


best, whit

[Zeuk in Oz]

I am about to get my timing belt changed but have been told that a couple of special tools are required. Never heard of this before can anyone enlighten me

As a novice I was quite concerned about getting the tension right but it really is very straight forward - If I could do it, anyone can do it ! :D

Take your time and change the tensioner pulley too.

Bentley give lots of detail - read and absorb before you start.

[old bob]

Book is 3 hours for the belt itself, I think. Don't know the specifics on the water pump. If doing it yourself without prior experience, allocate a weekend, especially if the car's been subject to rust. Otherwise, a shop should charge something around 4 hours for the job, or less if they're nice. It's not a complicated job -- a money maker on the ETAs, as it can be done in less than half an hour. I motors take a coupla hours.


best, whit

Thanks for your help will let you know how I finish up
HAPPY EASTER All

[cschollum]

IMPORTANT

After you think you have finished, rotate the engine by hand using the 32mm fan bolt, and make sure it turns freely (at least a couple of complete engine revolutions), if you meet any resistance you could have got the head misaligned - always best to do this rather as use the starter motor because if there is a fault, you will wreck it trying to start it.

[Blitzkrieg Bob]

I haven't heard any horror stories for the M20.

Is it easy to come off, or what?

[Blitzkrieg Bob]

Just checked out my Bently's...and, as long as the front crank seal is good, it's just a matter of unbolting the pulley/harmonic balancer from the flange on the crank.

[winfred]

unbolt the 6 13mms and it almost falls off


I haven't heard any horror stories for the M20.

Is it easy to come off, or what?

[skr]

i did it in around 5 hours,including water pump (first time on this car). I allso built myself a "special tool for turning the engine. It's quite easy ,but be sure to get the timing right. Even 1 tooth off can cause big problems.

[matteus]

Hello,

I'm new here, and I'm very excited about being on this forum. I hope I can learn alot here.

I have a 525i M20, and I'm changing the timing belt also. But I've encountered a few difficulties.
So far, I have removed the radiator and all the accesorybelts, and also loosened the crankshaft pulley screws.
The problem where I am stuck at is removing the visco-coupling of the fan. I have a 32mm wrench, but I have absolutely no idea how the loosen the bolt. Is there a way to secure the pully/waterpump so I can unscrew the bolt?


thank you,

matteus

[winfred]

it's a reverse thread nut, from the top smack the wrench to the left side of the car with a hammer, that's usually enough to loosen it


Hello,

I'm new here, and I'm very excited about being on this forum. I hope I can learn alot here.

I have a 525i M20, and I'm changing the timing belt also. But I've encountered a few difficulties.
So far, I have removed the radiator and all the accesorybelts, and also loosened the crankshaft pulley screws.
The problem where I am stuck at is removing the visco-coupling of the fan. I have a 32mm wrench, but I have absolutely no idea how the loosen the bolt. Is there a way to secure the pully/waterpump so I can unscrew the bolt?


thank you,

matteus

[matteus]

Thank you for your quick reply, Winfred.

I'm sorry, but my english isn't that good. What does that mean, a 'reverse thread nut'?
If I put the 32mm wrench on the nut, it just turns around loosely with the pulley. I can't put any force on the nut?

this picture shows the waterpump pulley:
http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c104/matteusmb/P1010903kl.jpg

thank you again.

greetz

matteus

[sbihue]

What does that mean, a 'reverse thread nut'?
If I put the 32mm wrench on the nut, it just turns around loosely with the pulley. I can't put any force on the nut?


"Reverse Thread" means that the nut WILL OPEN by moving it in the CLOCKWISE direction as looking at the clutch standing in front of the car.
Take a medium wrench or a pipe and hold it diagonally to block movement of the clutch and then give a whack to the 32mm wrench in the ANTICLOCKWISE direction. It should break free

[winfred]

most of the time you can loosen the clutch with a wrench with the belt in place with a good wack of a hammer on the wrench to the left side of the car

[matteus]

Thanks all for the advice.

I tried it with the belt on, but it just slipped, no matter how hard I tensioned it.
I did succeed in loosening the bolt, by slipping a huge screwdriver between the waterpumppulley and the crankshaftpulley. Then I used a big wrench to make a leverage on the screwdriver and block the pulleys as much as possible. Additionally I held the waterpumppulley with a big shrew. Then by hammering the 32mm wrench, I was able to break it loose.
This was a though one! hehehe!

thank you for all the advice again, guys.

I'll make a thread where I tell some more about myself and the car, with some pics too. ok?



greetz,

matteus

[matteus]

How can I check if everything is ok after I reassembled and started the engine? The engine whines a bit, could this be the belt tension is too high?
The runs, and runs pretty smooth, but I really really want to be sure of this.


thanks,

matteus

[joshua43214]

If the belt whines, it is too tight. general rule of thumb for belt tension is to twist the belt 90degrees with thumb and first 2 fingers on its longest span. it should take firm pressure to do this. Over tightening timing belts is a very common thing from beginers, paranoia seems to set in. If its too tight it will stretch and fail prematurely, not to mention the added wear on the pulleys. I have used this method of tensioning belts for years on everything from Honda's to Fiats with good success, about the only thing I use a tension gauge on is Porsche since its very hard to use the finger method.

The whine comes from trapped air not able to escape from under the belt.

[winfred]

the belt will whine a little till the teeth get pollished after a couple days use, generally with a spring loaded tensioner the tensioner will apply the right force


How can I check if everything is ok after I reassembled and started the engine? The engine whines a bit, could this be the belt tension is too high?
The runs, and runs pretty smooth, but I really really want to be sure of this.


thanks,

matteus

[matteus]

Thanks for the good info, I'll check the belt tension this afternoon.
Isn't it so that the belt tensioner is a fixed one? I mean, I just fastened the two bolts that hold the tensioner, withouth actually taking notice of the spring. Is this wrong?
When you say 'twist the belt on it's longest span', I presume this is not between the camshaft wheel and the oil pump wheel, considering it is always tightened there by the engines running direction?

thanks again,

matteus

[matteus]

I've just softened the tension on the belt. Jippy! It runs now without the whine is gone. From what I remember, it now runs pretty much the same as before.

I wanted to check my work with a stroboscopelamp that I have laying around, but it seems the lamp is broke. Is there any other way I can check the timing?


greetz,

matteus

[632 Regal]

the DME will adjust the timing as needed so basicly there is nothing to check.

I didnt think you could adjust the belt tension since its supposed to be max tight against the spring tension.


I've just softened the tension on the belt. Jippy! It runs now without the whine is gone. From what I remember, it now runs pretty much the same as before.

I wanted to check my work with a stroboscopelamp that I have laying around, but it seems the lamp is broke. Is there any other way I can check the timing?


greetz,

matteus

[winfred]

yea it's probably loose now, but quiet :D


I didnt think you could adjust the belt tension since its supposed to be max tight against the spring tension.

[matteus]

the DME will adjust the timing as needed so basicly there is nothing to check.

I didnt think you could adjust the belt tension since its supposed to be max tight against the spring tension.


Yeah so it seems. I just pushed the tensioner too hard when tightening the bolt the first time. That's why it was too hard tensioned.

[matteus]

yea it's probably loose now, but quiet :D


Hehe...
Well, I hope everything is ok now.


greetz,

matteus