Keyless entry (again) wich wires to tap into?

[Espen]

First i wanna say that ive searched the forums, ive googled it, ive read the artivle on bmwe34.net, still everything seems a bit unclear for me. The instructions that came with the package is all crap.

From my "ebay-keyless-system" module i have a blue wire wich sends a +12v pulse for 250milliseconds when i push lock, and a green one that does the same when i push unlock

Wich wires do i need to tap into? Ive tried to tap into the blue and the white wire that comes from the trunk lock.

I`ve given up the double lock function, it doesnt work, so this is not a issue for me. I just want a simple remote lock and unlock.

[joshua43214]

You want the new system to imitate the action of the micro switch in the door lock. A few minutes with a wiring diagram and a test light will answer the question easily.

For the 92, should be similar enough to get you started on a 91
http://www.e38.org/e34/e34_92_etm.pdf

[Espen]

Thanks... Im not so sure of what to look for in a wiring diagram. Im familiar with those, and know how to read them. But when it comes to the Central locking system, im not sure wich wires that goes "out" from the lock when i turn the key.

[Espen]

Ok, Ive spent some time lookin at the drawings now..
It seems like its the blue(BL) wire that powers the Central lock actuator/engine.
The blue sends current over to the white(WS) wire when it is unlocked, and power to the black one (SW) when its closed. right?

But i cant figure out wich wires that sends the "lock-all-locks" pulse signal to the GM unit, neither the "open-all-locks" pulse signal.

http://filserver.pyrabel.net/bilder/e34/skjemaer/5126_03.jpg

[joshua43214]

I took a fast look at the diagram and it looks like "F" is the lock all signal, and "O" is the unlock all signal. If you follow these wires, you will see they splice together and enter the GM at "C" and "D". To verify, unplug the GM and check for power at those 2 terminals at the GM while moving the key to lock and unlock.

[Espen]

I think you are right, but is this the wires i should send the pulses to? It looks like these wires carries a constant signal from A (Fuse 30, hot all times)

[Espen]

Ok, you were right :)

A pulse to the white/green wire (pin 20 at the GM) will lock all locks.
And a pulse to the white/green/yellow (pin 17 at the GM) will unlock all.

I got this wo work, but i have to lock it twice since it pops up the first time i lock, the same thing occurs when i unlock.. It locks, and i have to unlock twice.

Not that bad, but my keyless module "knows" wich button i pushed last, so when i push lock, it wont let me lock it again until i have pushed unlock first.

Procedure to lock:
Push lock -> it locks and pops open again
Push unlock to make the module ready for another lock signal
Push lock -> now all doors locks.

The same procedure to unlock.

Joshua43214, are you able to figure out wich wire that sends signal to the GM to close all windows and sunroof?

[Javier]

I rather suggest to use the Driver's door lock switch. There is the diagram, Lock wire is White/Red inside the door, White/Red/Yellow after the pillar towards the GM. Unlock is Blue/Brown inside the door, Blue/Brown/Yellow after the pillar towards the GM.

Javier

[Javier]

sustaining the double lock request. (Lock and Unlock TOGETHER after a lock), you can not issue commands together nor sustain them with that keyless, isn't it?.

Javier

[joshua43214]

Thanks for chiming in Javier, I was feeling a bit uncomfortable useing the wrong year diagram on this, I knew what I suggested would be safe to try and should work. But that lock switch detail is what is really needed and the diagram I linked does not show it.

As for having to lock 2 times in order for the locks to stay locked. Did you not post earlier about having this problem when locking the car with the key? The keyless entry only imitates the signals from the door locks, so if you have a door locking issue with the key, you will still have it with the remote.

[Espen]

I rather suggest to use the Driver's door lock switch. There is the diagram, Lock wire is White/Red inside the door, White/Red/Yellow after the pillar towards the GM. Unlock is Blue/Brown inside the door, Blue/Brown/Yellow after the pillar towards the GM.

Javier

Im using the withe/green and white/green/yellow wires now, they come from the drivers door right? My plan was to use the wires from the trunk, but that didnt work.

I still have a problem with the lock popin up now.. That problem was only there when i locked with the key on the drivers door. now it happends when i lock it from inside, wheb i open it from inside, and when i open it with the key.

What is the difference by tapping into the white/green + white/green/yellow and the blue/brown/yellow + white/red/yellow? They all do the same right?





sustaining the double lock request. (Lock and Unlock TOGETHER after a lock), you can not issue commands together nor sustain them with that keyless, isn't it?.

Javier

Im sorry, but my English skills let me down here, not sure if I understood you right.
The double lock function is not working when locking with the key, they pop up again. My keyless can send lock and unlock together, but it triggers a "find car" function, lights and horn will blink for 15 seconds.

Javier, do you have a drawing of the closure function for windows and sunroof? I would like to get this to work, the keyless have a output channel for this.

[Javier]

Im using the withe/green and white/green/yellow wires now, they come from the drivers door right?

White/Green is Driver's door lock monitor for Lock position, White/Green/Yellow is Passenger's door and Trunk lock monitor for Unlock position. I wouldn't use any monitoring lines for this application (even though they act also as commanding lines), but the commanding only lines that come from key hole switch, as suggested earlier.

I still have a problem with the lock popin up now.. That problem was only there when i locked with the key on the drivers door.

This generally means that some monitored lock is not operating. Probably the trunk, Did you checked the Trunk Hinge harness (Search under Trunk Hinge). Guess you already checked fuse F31.

now it happends when i lock it from inside, wheb i open it from inside, and when i open it with the key.

First thing to do is reversing the keyless installation and fix all the bugs, then, re-install it as directed and verify operation.


What is the difference by tapping into the white/green + white/green/yellow and the blue/brown/yellow + white/red/yellow? They all do the same right?

Almost the same.

Im sorry, but my English skills let me down here, not sure if I understood you right.

Mine is worse so don't blame yourself! I will re-phrase.

The double lock function is not working when locking with the key, they pop up again.

By double locking I mean Central Arrest (also have heard dead bolting??? to name this function) It is when you lock the system some way you can not pull up the knobs. It is a special function embedded in the locks, and is achieved when you operate the key in any door beyond the simple lock position. If you take a look at the Key switch diagram I posted for you, you will note that it corresponds to position 3 in the key switch, and this position issues a high pulse to both, lock and unlock lines.

Now, for closing windows and sunroof, you nee to hold that condition, so you need a channel that allow you to hold signal pulse wile holding the button down, so you keep issuing a "Central Arrest" command wile windows are closing. I'm not sure that 15 seconds auto sustained will complete the windows/sunroof closing operation, may be if you issue them several times??

My keyless can send lock and unlock together, but it triggers a "find car" function, lights and horn will blink for 15 seconds.

This is not clear for me, can you elaborate?

Javier, do you have a drawing of the closure function for windows and sunroof? I would like to get this to work, the keyless have a output channel for this.

As I told you, this function has nothing to do with windows system, but GM orders it trough sustained Central Arrest command received from the Central Locking system. I presume you are referring to the 15 sec. channel mentioned earlier for this closing feature, otherwise, please describe the extra channel for closing windows, and may be I can help.

Javier

[Espen]

Hi again, thanks for clearing things out for me.

Meanwhile i have now gotten it to work. I had wired something wrong when i grounded the keyless module, it blowed a fuse all the time. So now i removed that ground path, the fuse is ok. And i dont need to lock/unlock twice( they stopped poping up)

I tried to find the wires you mentioned, i foun the white/red/yellow, but not whe blue/brown/yellow (I was looking under the back seat, in the big harness that came from the front) Sending a pulse to the white/red/yellow didnt do anything.

Could you explain why it is a bad idea using monitoring lines to operate the lock/unlock commands? If you look at the image i posted on page 1. the white/green and white/green/yellow both come from drivers lock, though the trunk and passengers wires splices in on the white/green/yellow.

I know what the doublelock/dealock/central arrest is, but as far as i know, it doesnt work on my car, i can turn the key all to the right, the locks do this:

lock
pop up
lock again.
then nothing happens.. Ive tried sending pulses on both lock and unlock wires (the white and green ones) nothing happened except that they locked and unlocked the car.

Now, for the channels on my keyless:
On the remote i have three buttons.

Lock
Unlock
Find car.

-The lock button wil send a pulse on the lock wire, and a "roll up window signal for 25 seconds, the lights blink once (this could be used to send a signal to both unlock and lock?)

-The unlock button sends only a pulse to the unlock wire, lights will blink 3 times

-The find car button will send pulses on three output wires. And keep on for 25 seconds (at first i thought it was 15 seconds, but the manual says 25)

-If both unlock and lock buttons are pressed at the same time, it does the same as pushing the "find car"
----


For now im happy with the way the lock/unlock remote works, one push on the lock and it locks, same for the unlock. As I said I would like som more input on why I should use the control wires form the keyhole switch rather than the wires I am using now.

PS: Do you know if there is a way to wire in the Hazard lights (all four turn indicators) to the keyless, I want them to blink when i lock/unlock, not the headlights. I looked under the hazardlight button, seems like one of the wires just need a path to ground to start blink with the turning signals.

[Javier]

I tried to find the wires you mentioned, i foun the white/red/yellow, but not whe blue/brown/yellow (I was looking under the back seat, in the big harness that came from the front) Sending a pulse to the white/red/yellow didnt do anything.

White/Red/Yellow is pin 7 of General module connector X255 (same connector you used for 17 and 20). Blue/Brown/Yellow is pin 24 of same connector.

Could you explain why it is a bad idea using monitoring lines to operate the lock/unlock commands?

If you want to lock an unlocked rear door, trunk or passenger's door wile driver's door is locked, you will have to unlock then lock. Also guess that special features as double lock and late close of the windows are not intended to be operated via knobs on the doors.

If you look at the image i posted on page 1. the white/green and white/green/yellow both come from drivers lock, though the trunk and passengers wires splices in on the white/green/yellow.

This drawing is not for 1991, see picture below.

I know what the doublelock/dealock/central arrest is, but as far as i know, it doesnt work on my car, i can turn the key all to the right, the locks do this:

lock
pop up
lock again.
then nothing happens.. Ive tried sending pulses on both lock and unlock wires (the white and green ones) nothing happened except that they locked and unlocked the car.

After "lock again", if key to central arrest, don't you double lock the doors? Again, take a look at the trunk hinge harness, as it may be the culprit of locks pop up. In 1991, only monitored locks are drivers and trunk, fuses F30 and F31 should be OK.

Now, for the channels on my keyless:
On the remote i have three buttons.

Lock
Unlock
Find car.

-The lock button wil send a pulse on the lock wire, and a "roll up window signal for 25 seconds, the lights blink once (this could be used to send a signal to both unlock and lock?)

-The unlock button sends only a pulse to the unlock wire, lights will blink 3 times

-The find car button will send pulses on three output wires. And keep on for 25 seconds (at first i thought it was 15 seconds, but the manual says 25)

-If both unlock and lock buttons are pressed at the same time, it does the same as pushing the "find car"

If two of the "Find car" output wires are connected to Lock and Unlock, operating "Find Car" should Double Lock, if issued after a lock command, and the system is working fine (as it seems to be a previous bug).

PS: Do you know if there is a way to wire in the Hazard lights (all four turn indicators) to the keyless, I want them to blink when i lock/unlock, not the headlights. I looked under the hazardlight button, seems like one of the wires just need a path to ground to start blink with the turning signals.

Grounding the Brown/Blue wire under the Hazard switch should turn them on.

Edit: You can also tap the lights straight under the hazard relay (K16) pin 5 Blue/Brown wire is right side and pin 4 Blue/Green wire is left side.

Javier

[Javier]

should be about the same for Central locking, but not absolutely sure!!

Javier

[Espen]

Thanks again Javier!

White/Red/Yellow is pin 7 of General module connector X255 (same connector you used for 17 and 20). Blue/Brown/Yellow is pin 24 of same connector.
I`ll look on the connector for pin 7 and 24.
When i tapped the white/green ones, i didnt do it on the connector, dont know how to get there, its under the plastic frame thats holding the GM and RM modules.


If you want to lock an unlocked rear door, trunk or passenger's door wile driver's door is locked, you will have to unlock then lock. .

Well this situation will never happen, will it? Can I lock the drivers door without letting the other doors lock.

If i get my keyless to operate the "right" wires, (not the monitoring ones), wont i get the same pop-up situation as when i use the key? One of the reason i bought this, was to be able to push once on a button to lock the car, instead of standing there with a key and "lock-unlock-lock" :)

After "lock again", if key to central arrest, don't you double lock the doors? Again, take a look at the trunk hinge harness, as it may be the culprit of locks pop up. In 1991, only monitored locks are drivers and trunk, fuses F30 and F31 should be OK.
I will check my trunk hinge harness again, but it all looked nice.
When the doors lock the second time, they are just normally locked, still I can open from inside. And no windows roll up.


So, for a "pop-up" to take place, a monitored lock need to give a lock signal?
And that would be the drivers door or the trunk?

I will check my hinge harness and rewire the keyless in my lunchbreak today, and let you know how it went.

If two of the "Find car" output wires are connected to Lock and Unlock, operating "Find Car" should Double Lock, if issued after a lock command, and the system is working fine (as it seems to be a previous bug).
Well the "find car" thing send pulses for 25 seconds, wouldnt that make the locks go crazy? the roll up windows output sends a constant signal for 25 seconds if i split that one and connect both unlock and lock to it, then i should get a deadlock? Why wont i get a deadlock when using the key?

Thanks again :)

[Javier]

Well this situation will never happen, will it?

You can pull up a rear door knob without unlocking all the system (as long as no double lock is in place).

If i get my keyless to operate the "right" wires, (not the monitoring ones), wont i get the same pop-up situation as when i use the key? One of the reason i bought this, was to be able to push once on a button to lock the car, instead of standing there with a key and "lock-unlock-lock"

Wrong reason for the keyless. The one issuing a pop-up command is the GM, no mater if you lock with the key or with the knobs (now your keyless is simulating the knobs). After a lock command, your GM expects the drivers knob and the trunk lock to be locked, and monitors it via the micro switch following the knob position and the trunk lock. If failed, it pop-up to let you know the car is not properly locked. I'm convinced this was designed for the trunk, as it is the only device you can not visually inspect to be locked.

You may complete the lock command, but if your GM does not get the signal back (Blown fuse F31 /F30, or broken wire, faulty micro switch), then you still get the Pop-up situation. A simple check is to see what device is not issuing any lock command the driver's door knob or the trunk lock. If you lock via the driver's knob wire, you may be fouling the system as it is getting the lock signal back from the keyless and not the knob micro switch.

When the doors lock the second time, they are just normally locked, still I can open from inside. And no windows roll up.

Is this happening using the key in both front doors? In your place, I would check the operation of all devices related to the Central Locking, not only keys in doors and trunk (for both trunk lock positions), but also front doors knob.

So, for a "pop-up" to take place, a monitored lock need to give a lock signal?

Other way around, the lock signal needs to be missing. In 1992, also the passenger's door is monitored, a simple check is to push down the drivers door knob wile holding up the passengers door knob, and you get an immediate pop-up. Also, as the door is monitored, you can lock by pushing down passengers door knob, if you hold up the driver's knob you get an immediate pop-up.

Also remember that as long as the driver's door is opened, you get a constant Pop-up after a lock command, and after an engine turn off, the double locking can not be carried out until front door opens and close back. Just to avoid driver to be locked in.

Well the "find car" thing send pulses for 25 seconds, wouldnt that make the locks go crazy? the roll up windows output sends a constant signal for 25 seconds if i split that one and connect both unlock and lock to it, then i should get a deadlock?

You can not permanently connect together the Lock and Unlock wires, otherwise, the system will be inoperable.

Why wont i get a deadlock when using the key?

Obviously, something is not working, do you have interior lights when the driver's door is opened?


Javier

[Espen]

Hi again

I have now checked the hinge harness, all 12 wires were dammaged, the shielding were broken away many places. But none of them were cut off. Dont know if this could have cause a popup situation.

Thanks for another good answer Javier, You should start yourself a little "bmw support company" :)

I tried to connect the keyless to the commanding wires. It didnt work.
I measured those wires just to be sure it was the right ones, it was. When i turned the key to the right there was a 12v pulse on both of them (one starting before the ohther) When holding the key all to the right there was 12v on both at the same time. This should have triggered central arrest and total closure, right? This means that the GM recieves the signal, but it wont send the commands out...

For the hazard, i tapped into the harness going to the back of the car, works great :)

I still have some comment/questions though... (if you never ask, you`ll never learn) my dad used to say.

The one issuing a pop-up command is the GM, no mater if you lock with the key or with the knobs (now your keyless is simulating the knobs).

When locking with the knobs (or the keyless) they dont pop up again. This only happends when i use the key in the drivers door. Monitor lines give a OK lockdown, commanding lines give a popup.


A simple check is to see what device is not issuing any lock command the driver's door knob or the trunk lock.

How do I check that? Could it be something wrong with the command wires from the driverslock causing the popup? Its not all the time.. Sometimes it closes in one try. Ive playes around with all functions today, and some times the whole central locking system playes dead. Just the mechanical functions work.. and after some manual lock/unlocking it comes back to live again.

Is this happening using the key in both front doors? In your place, I would check the operation of all devices related to the Central Locking, not only keys in doors and trunk (for both trunk lock positions), but also front doors knob.

Only happening when i use the key on the drivers door. On passenger side, the key only locks the passenger door. As for unlocking, only the drivers door and trunk keylock can unlock. On the passenger door the key cant even unlock itself (except when i lift the door opener)

Other way around, the lock signal needs to be missing. In 1992, also the passenger's door is monitored, a simple check is to push down the drivers door knob wile holding up the passengers door knob, and you get an immediate pop-up. Also, as the door is monitored, you can lock by pushing down passengers door knob, if you hold up the driver's knob you get an immediate pop-up.

Yes other way around, i was writing to fast...
The check responded like you said, with a popup. I cant lock with the passenger door knob, it only locks itself, It will unlock all doors though. This was altered in 1992 when the passenger was also able to lock with the knob, right?

You can not permanently connect together the Lock and Unlock wires, otherwise, the system will be inoperable.

I read a method that involved diode`s, they can send the signal one way, as sending the power on the lock wire over to the unlock wire.

Obviously, something is not working, do you have interior lights when the driver's door is opened?


As mentioned at the beginning of this post, i think the problem lies within the trunk harness. Interior lights turns on when drivers door are open.

Espen.

[Javier]

I'm e-mailing you copy of Central locking for 1991 so we can talk same language.

I have now checked the hinge harness, all 12 wires were dammaged, the shielding were broken away many places. But none of them were cut off. Dont know if this could have cause a popup situation.

Need to check all the fuses to be OK. Also be sure every wire was properly insulated. Sometimes the damage extend beyond the limits of the inspected section.

I tried to connect the keyless to the commanding wires. It didnt work.
I measured those wires just to be sure it was the right ones, it was. When i turned the key to the right there was a 12v pulse on both of them (one starting before the ohther)

In a full travel toward lock, there is a first lock signal only and then it is added an unlock to request double lock. If you turn the key only to lock (half travel) you will see no unlock pulse.

When holding the key all to the right there was 12v on both at the same time. This should have triggered central arrest and total closure, right? This means that the GM recieves the signal, but it wont send the commands out...

Have you unplugged the GM and verified that the signal actually reaches the GM connector?

For the hazard, i tapped into the harness going to the back of the car, works great

Presume you mean you tap straight to the lamps wiring. Hope you did not mixed left and right, otherwise your turn signals are not operative.

When locking with the knobs (or the keyless) they dont pop up again. This only happends when i use the key in the drivers door. Monitor lines give a OK lockdown, commanding lines give a popup.

This makes me believe you have an issue in the Driver's door actuator. When operated with the key, the knob does not full travel down, missing the lock state confirmation. Does this happens also when locking with the trunk? Observe closely the driver's door knob for hesitation carrying the lock command. Help it down (do not push it down) with light pressure to see if pop up is removed. If so, try lubing the lock mechanism inside the door.


How do I check that? Could it be something wrong with the command wires from the driverslock causing the popup? Its not all the time.. Sometimes it closes in one try. Ive playes around with all functions today, and some times the whole central locking system playes dead. Just the mechanical functions work.. and after some manual lock/unlocking it comes back to live again.

Jump into the car, doors closed, an push down driver's door knob. You should get a lock command to all doors, no pop up (If driver's door is opened, you should get always and immediate pop-up). Do this with trunk lock in horizontal and in vertical position, should be no difference. If trunk lock is in vertical, after a lock command is completed, trunk should be locked (Pushing the button does nothing).

Now unlock the system with trunk in vertical and and turn the trunk key to lock position. You should get a lock command to all doors.

Only happening when i use the key on the drivers door. On passenger side, the key only locks the passenger door.

This I do not understand. The White/Red/Yellow wire is common for both front doors key switches, the system can not differentiate if the lock command comes from right or left door. You can check for pulse presence as you did for driver's door.

As for unlocking, only the drivers door and trunk keylock can unlock. On the passenger door the key cant even unlock itself (except when i lift the door opener)

Something is wrong with the key switch in passenger's. Blue/Red wire to pin 16 on GM X255 connector gets the wire from unlock passengers side switch. You can also test for the pulse at key operation. You can also have issues at GM connectors, multi pole connectors at the door pillars, or even device connectors inside the doors.

The check responded like you said, with a popup.

What check, yours is 91!

I cant lock with the passenger door knob, it only locks itself, It will unlock all doors though. This was altered in 1992 when the passenger was also able to lock with the knob, right?

Yep.

I read a method that involved diode`s, they can send the signal one way, as sending the power on the lock wire over to the unlock wire.

Yes you are right, two diodes, both anodes (triangle side) toward your keyless wire, one diode cathode (bar) to each wire. This way you can send them power together without mixing them. But you need to issue first a lock command and then both together. Not sure what would happen if you issue them together wile unlocked.

Still do not understand why aren't you able to get a double lock and windows late closure holding the key. If GM is getting the signals, only explanation is GM not wiling to (Conditions not present as driver still in the car) or GM/RM bug.

Javier

[Espen]

I'm e-mailing you copy of Central locking for 1991 so we can talk same language.
Thanks, email recieved, im having a look at it now.


Need to check all the fuses to be OK. Also be sure every wire was properly insulated. Sometimes the damage extend beyond the limits of the inspected section.
I have insulated twice, no fuses was blown.



Have you unplugged the GM and verified that the signal actually reaches the GM connector?
No I have not, the GM module have 4 multipin connectors, wich of them do the commanding wires attach to?



Presume you mean you tap straight to the lamps wiring. Hope you did not mixed left and right, otherwise your turn signals are not operative.

No i used one channel for the left light and one for the right, they are not attached to eachother. Turn signals and hazard lights do still work fine.


This makes me believe you have an issue in the Driver's door actuator. When operated with the key, the knob does not full travel down, missing the lock state confirmation. Does this happens also when locking with the trunk? Observe closely the driver's door knob for hesitation carrying the lock command. Help it down (do not push it down) with light pressure to see if pop up is removed. If so, try lubing the lock mechanism inside the door.

The knob seems to go all the way down, i think there might be a problem with my key, sometimes i have to pull it slightly towards me before i can turn the key.. Old and worn key? I have lubed the mechanism, through the inspection hole, maybe I will undo the door panels on the drivers door and do a full inspection. When locking with the trunk this does not happen.



Jump into the car, doors closed, an push down driver's door knob. You should get a lock command to all doors, no pop up

True

(If driver's door is opened, you should get always and immediate pop-up).
If the door is opened, the door knob cant be pushed down at all.


Do this with trunk lock in horizontal and in vertical position, should be no difference. If trunk lock is in vertical, after a lock command is completed, trunk should be locked (Pushing the button does nothing).
Also true. When its vertical it follows the others doors, horizontal its allways locked, i think.


Now unlock the system with trunk in vertical and and turn the trunk key to lock position. You should get a lock command to all doors.
Correct.


This I do not understand. The White/Red/Yellow wire is common for both front doors key switches, the system can not differentiate if the lock command comes from right or left door. You can check for pulse presence as you did for driver's door.

I will check this. Must be a bad connector or something, bad microswitch maybe?




Something is wrong with the key switch in passenger's. Blue/Red wire to pin 16 on GM X255 connector gets the wire from unlock passengers side switch. You can also test for the pulse at key operation. You can also have issues at GM connectors, multi pole connectors at the door pillars, or even device connectors inside the doors.

Same as above, I`ll check this after work today.



What check, yours is 91!
this check:
a simple check is to push down the drivers door knob wile holding up the passengers door knob, and you get an immediate pop-up. Also, as the door is monitored, you can lock by pushing down passengers door knob, if you hold up the driver's knob you get an immediate pop-up.

I could not lock with passengers knob, but it is not ment to do that.






Yes you are right, two diodes, both anodes (triangle side) toward your keyless wire, one diode cathode (bar) to each wire. This way you can send them power together without mixing them. But you need to issue first a lock command and then both together. Not sure what would happen if you issue them together wile unlocked.

I think I`ll let this issue on hold untill i get all my mechanic functions to work. (doublelock, and the issue with the passenger keylock)



Still do not understand why aren't you able to get a double lock and windows late closure holding the key. If GM is getting the signals, only explanation is GM not wiling to (Conditions not present as driver still in the car) or GM/RM bug.

This I will find out when i know in wich connector the commanding lines are attached at under the GM. I can then measure if the signal from the keylocks arrive at the GM. If it does, then it must be the output channels from the GM.

[Javier]

No I have not, the GM module have 4 multipin connectors, wich of them do the commanding wires attach to?

This post (http://www.bimmer.info/forum/showthread.php?p=61985#poststop) has links to a GM cradle view were you can identify the X255 yellow connector, also has a link to views of all connectors pin outs in there (look for post #10).

No i used one channel for the left light and one for the right, they are not attached to eachother. Turn signals and hazard lights do still work fine.

Great, way to go.

The knob seems to go all the way down, i think there might be a problem with my key, sometimes i have to pull it slightly towards me before i can turn the key.. Old and worn key? I have lubed the mechanism, through the inspection hole, maybe I will undo the door panels on the drivers door and do a full inspection. When locking with the trunk this does not happen.

Locking trough the trunk is like pushing down a knob. Think you will have to debug all lines to GM from actuators and switches.

If the door is opened, the door knob cant be pushed down at all.

Wohh, 92 just pop up back!!!

this check:

You get a pop up when locking with halt up passenger's knob???

Javier

[Espen]

Locking trough the trunk is like pushing down a knob. Think you will have to debug all lines to GM from actuators and switches.

Locking with the knob works fine, so do the trunk. Such a debug operation would be nice,but i dont have the time for that know, maybe next weekend.

Wohh, 92 just pop up back!!!
Strange.. I cant lock my drivers door when its opened, allt other doors can operate the knobs when door is open. Is it deadbolting the drivers door when its open?

[b]
You get a pop up when locking with halt up passenger's knob???[b]
Yes, if i am sitting in the car, all dors locked, and i push down the knob on driversside while i hold up the passenger, i get a popup. This is normal isnt it? The Gm doesnt get a lock signal from the passengerdor, so it is a faulty lock, and it sends a unlock.

[Javier]

wile driver's door (an only it) is opened. This is to avoid leaving the keys in, obliging you to use the key to lock the car.

In my car, you can push down the knob (or operate the key to lock), but no mater how many times, it will always pot up to unlock the system. May be someone with a 1991/or before model can confirm the knob can not be pushed down in driver's door if opened, like you are experiencing?

Of course, you can close drivers door and reach its knob trough the rear door to lock the car.

Is it deadbolting the drivers door when its open?

Deadbolting is only possible after a central locking, and that is not possible if open driver's door. Also deadbolting is only possible with keys (or keyless, of course). An not trough the trunk lock, only doors.

The Gm doesnt get a lock signal from the passengerdor, so it is a faulty lock, and it sends a unlock.

The estrange thing is that in 1991, passenger's door does not have the wire to the GM carrying the "lock" status. That is why the knob does not lock the system. Doubt it uses the open door status to confirm. Wonder if it is more an unlock command received from the knob immediately after a lock operation, than a safety pop-up.

Javier

[MikeyMike]

I am going to install a central door locking unit in my BMW 520 from 1995 today, but I dint really understand where to use the open/close signals

Under the rear seat is my central door locking unit, there is a blue wire, and a white wire, that get a pulse when you open or close, if i connect this wires to a 12v pulse from the remote control unit, will all doors open and close? of do i need another signal?

[Espen]

I hooked up to the wires going in to the GM module.

A pulse to the white/green wire (pin 20 at the GM) will lock all locks.
And a pulse to the white/green/yellow (pin 17 at the GM) will unlock all.

This have worked perfectly for me since I installed it in the beginning of May.