View Full Version : ::.. Installed LEDs Yesterday
I did the rear because it's the easiest to play with the wiring.
Took both tail lamps out and reversed the contacts for Signal and Brake. Tested and of course got the fast blinker and brake light warning.
Crimped in a 6ohm for each circuit and everything works fine. It's quite bright in day and just beautiful in night.
Oh, I had to clip the inside of the bulb holders slightly so that the LED bayonets can go in fully and seat properly.
Time required: 15 minutes
Actual time spent: 30 minutes
It took me extra time because I had to 'extend' several wires because they were too short to swap around.
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Brake light:
http://autolumination.com/images/auto_bulbs/1156_t1_r_wm.jpg
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Turn signal:
http://autolumination.com/images/auto_bulbs/1156_t1_a_wm.jpg
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Crimp on 6ohm:
http://autolumination.com/images/leds/load_equalizer.jpg
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Before you ask how much I spent... I spent nothing. I am now a distributor for autolumination.com and it was part of the starter sample pack.
What I want to do now is use the following bulb for the FRONT indicators after I figure out how to 'reverse' the wiring for that:
http://autolumination.com/images/auto_bulbs/3157whiteamber.gif
It's white regular running and switched to amber when signalling.
Also, I need change the high-mount (center) stop light to LED as well... as soon as I go in and figure out the wiring.
rockyfeller
05-16-2006, 10:39 AM
Those load resistors actually work?? I bought a set and I still got a bulb out warning. You have any pictures of how well the light shines through the lenses?
DABLACK
05-16-2006, 11:16 AM
do you have any pics of the install or how it looks (the after-math)
I did the rear because it's the easiest to play with the wiring.
Took both tail lamps out and reversed the contacts for Signal and Brake. Tested and of course got the fast blinker and brake light warning.
Crimped in a 6ohm for each circuit and everything works fine. It's quite bright in day and just beautiful in night.
Oh, I had to clip the inside of the bulb holders slightly so that the LED bayonets can go in fully and seat properly.
Time required: 15 minutes
Actual time spent: 30 minutes
It took me extra time because I had to 'extend' several wires because they were too short to swap around.
=======================================
Brake light:
http://autolumination.com/images/auto_bulbs/1156_t1_r_wm.jpg
=======================================
Turn signal:
http://autolumination.com/images/auto_bulbs/1156_t1_a_wm.jpg
=======================================
Crimp on 6ohm:
http://autolumination.com/images/leds/load_equalizer.jpg
=======================================
Before you ask how much I spent... I spent nothing. I am now a distributor for autolumination.com and it was part of the starter sample pack.
What I want to do now is use the following bulb for the FRONT indicators after I figure out how to 'reverse' the wiring for that:
http://autolumination.com/images/auto_bulbs/3157whiteamber.gif
It's white regular running and switched to amber when signalling.
Also, I need change the high-mount (center) stop light to LED as well... as soon as I go in and figure out the wiring.
Rustam
05-16-2006, 01:22 PM
What I want to do now is use the following bulb for the FRONT indicators after I figure out how to 'reverse' the wiring for that:
It must provide switching polarity for same LED to show different colors...
Jon K
05-16-2006, 01:27 PM
It must provide switching polarity for same LED to show different colors...
Uh no not really, typically bi-color diodes have 3 legs... ground center post, + color 1, + color 2. You can see there are little PCBs on the bulb, they are switching the circuit.
Rustam
05-16-2006, 01:36 PM
It must provide switching polarity for same LED to show different colors...
Jon K you're wasting your time responding to my remarques. I'm gladly ignoring you and have NOOO idea what you have to say...
Jon K you're wasting your time responding to my remarques. I'm gladly ignoring you and have NOOO idea what you have to say...
Guys please! :)
The only problem I have in not knowing how to wire is that our car wiring is reversed. On that note, I'm not sure 'what' to reverse (if possible) on the 1197 bulbs for the front. The rears are two wires but the fronts are three. I know which one is for parking as I tapped it for the angel eyes.
Espen
05-16-2006, 02:15 PM
What do you mean by reverse? Does the LED need anything other than a positive and a ground?
bimmerd00d
05-16-2006, 02:48 PM
hmph, that resistor looks strangely similar to the one on the auxilary cooling fan.
Jon K
05-16-2006, 03:21 PM
Jon K you're wasting your time responding to my remarques. I'm gladly ignoring you and have NOOO idea what you have to say...
It wasn't in response to you idiot, it was useful for the topic. Dual color diodes have 3 terminals that switch by applying forward voltage to pins 1 and 2 for one color and 2 and 3 for the other.
What do you mean by reverse? Does the LED need anything other than a positive and a ground?
Right, but the positive and ground is 'reversed' on our cars light sockets (other things too?), that's why the contacts/wires need to be swapped. An incandescent bulb doesn't care about polarity, but an LED does.
Espen
05-16-2006, 03:55 PM
Hmm Im kinda not understanding what you mean.
Take a mulitmeter and measure both wires against ground or the negative battery pole, if you are gettin +12v (light must be turned on) then you have the wire that carrys the postive signal. You could also "ohm" it and when you get 0 ohms you have the wire that is carrying ground/negative.
Hmm Im kinda not understanding what you mean.
Take a mulitmeter and measure both wires against ground or the negative battery pole, if you are gettin +12v (light must be turned on) then you have the wire that carrys the postive signal. You could also "ohm" it and when you get 0 ohms you have the wire that is carrying ground/negative.
As far as I know (and tested), our cars use a positive ground for lighting circuits. This means that standard off-the-shelf LED bulbs wired for negative ground lighting won't work... unless you reverse the wiring in the bulb bayonet or the actual snap connector wires.
Rustam
05-16-2006, 04:26 PM
As far as I know (and tested), our cars use a positive ground for lighting circuits. This means that standard off-the-shelf LED bulbs wired for negative ground lighting won't work... unless you reverse the wiring in the bulb bayonet or the actual snap connector wires.
I am puzzled by the "positive ground" words. Do you mean the common connection is positive?
Maybe I can help with the following:
Bentley schematic shows pin number 1 to be common - I guess it's reasonable to assume that your cars use this pin for "positive ground" (common).
Pin 2 - front turn signal
Pin 3 - front park light
ProZak
05-16-2006, 04:29 PM
POST PICS!
And a price list or website would be cool...
-Zak-
Excuse the crappy quality... taking pics from camera phone in the rain :)
Likewise, it's good in real life. Unfortunately they are a bit expensive in my opinion.
http://jasonlau.ca/temp/led.gif
Right now you can get them at autolumination.com, but it's pricy. I'm hoping by going as a distributor, I can get them AND offload them for at least 25% off.
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