DEAD - turns over, does not fire - Please help

[zuzuk212]

Well, A crappy ending for a crappy week ... I new this would happen, but somebody would not drop me off ... so, now the 5 is sitting in a parking lot!

Late last week, the idle started fluctuating erratically … spiking up to 3k, dropping down and barely lighting the check engine light.

I had to go on a business trip, before leaving for good, in the parking lot, I turned it off and started it a couple times … I sort of new that I would have problems, but hoped that I would be able to get back home. It did start each time.

Now, tonight, the starter cranks but the engine will not fire. It also did this last week but it did eventually fire. I’m wondering if it could be temperature? It is cool, currently about 57 degrees Fahrenheit.

The only code is 1000.
Could it be: the idle control valve or O2 sensor?

I don’t know what I’m going to do tomorrow, being a Sunday and so F@#$ing far from home.

Please, let me know what you think.
Thanks in advance,
Ken

[BillionPa]

no chance in hell its the O2 sensor
could be the ICV, remove it and clean it out with carb cleaner.

may be the fuel pump or fuel pressure regulator.

[Jeff N.]

Fluctuating idle is symptomatic of the ICV. Cranking but not starting can be a bad or loose crank position sensor (CPS) or no fuel.

I'd start by checking the CPS and the fuel pressure.

[TheEndIsNear]

If it's cranking but not starting you neet to make sure you have the three components required for an engine to run; air, spark, and fuel.

[nariusb]

I just had same problem caused by AAMCO "mechanics". They nocked off the wire from the coil and the tear was hiding under the rubber boot. This was intermittent at first but then constant cranking burned it off compleatly. Check if you have spark by removin rubber plug from spark plug and inserting extra plug. Have a buddy crank while you ground the tread portion of the plug to good ground on the engine. If you have no spark suspect wires or coil.
Also are you gettin gas? Are your gas hoses hard? Do you smell fuel? You can test fuel pump by jumping fuel relay with a wire at 12 and 9 oclock.
Good luck

[Nick.Hay]

FukM5 will know!!

He's like tha fully-sickest BMW-minded uber-guru!!

and with his amazing 'direct-line' to the M-gods, he may know where to get a brand-new E34 engine to fix your issues bruvvvvvaaaa!!!

[joshua43214]

Make sure the big hose from the MAF is tight to the throttle body.

Drag a buddy and a large rubber malet or chunk of 2x4 over to your car. have him bang on the bottom of the fuel tank while you crank. if it starts, replace the fuel pump.

If that fails, check for fuel and spark. The car should start even with a bad ICV if you give it a small amount of throttle. O2 sensor will not cause a no start.

[Javier]

caused by CPS loosing pulses on its way out, causing false rpm signals to ECU.

Now it does not start, that may be it finally died.

First easy check is for spark as suggested earlier, if no spark, go for CPS resistance reading, M50/M60 is 1150-1410 ohms aprox., and open circuit from the two coil wires to shield wire.

Javier

[zuzuk212]

I found that there is no spark ... so I'm looking to replace the CPS after I have it towed home.

Has anybody changed this before ... what should I look out for?

Also, why wouldn't I have error codes about the CPS?

Thanks,
Ken

[nariusb]

I'd like to still think it's your wires or a coil. Disconect coil wire from both sides (coil and distributor) and reconect, same with spark plugs. Test your coil for resistance, search for exact values on this forum.


I found that there is no spark ... so I'm looking to replace the CPS after I have it towed home.

Has anybody changed this before ... what should I look out for?

Also, why wouldn't I have error codes about the CPS?

Thanks,
Ken

[Javier]

You should be looking for part #9, it is the CPS (http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=HD63&mospid=47404&btnr=11_0157&hg=11&fg=10)

Just unplug it at the electrical connection (There is a wire clip holding it in place, be careful when unplugging.

Test resistance between all 3 pins by pairs, two of them should read about 1300 ohms, and from any of them to the third should read open circuit.

Javier

[zuzuk212]

Thanks Javier,

I knew the part, just think it's a little retarded to have a quick disconnect and then hide it.

Thanks again for the info ... any idea as to why there was no error code?

I'll let you know what happens.

Also, I checked for spark from more than one coil ... nothing.

Ken

[zuzuk212]

Thanks to all ... it was the CPS ... cleaned out the ICV while I was at it.
It LIVES again!:D

Ken