Front Crankshaft Oil Seal

[Hector]

How do I remove this?

[BMW-F1-FAN]

What engine do you have?

[Hector]

nut'en.

What engine do you have?

[Bill R.]

easiest now to take the timing cover off too... You also said you have the crank pully already off too...I'd pull the timing cover and then remove the seal, you can inspect the guides, tensioner and chain at the same time..
Otherwise if you prefer to remove it in place you just pry it out being careful not to scratch the crank..I use a screwdriver that has a bend in the end of it for a seal removal tool. Sometimes you have to punch a hole through the middle of the seal and then pry it out... Watch the crank surface though...








How do I remove this?

[Jeff N.]

It's all about the front crank nut. 32mm if I recall, about 325 ft lbs of torque. To remove mine, we needed to use a serious twin hammer impact wrench. Motor was out of the car. Not sure what sort of clearance you have, might want to look at that.

If you do get the nut off, I'd consider replacing all the timing chain components at the same time:

- guide rail
- tensioner rail
- lower and upper chain sprocket
- chain

You'll never have another chance to do it unless you get in there again. Parts are cheap vs. the effort.

Cheers!

Jeff

[Bill R.]

Third one down here (http://www.bimmer.info/forum/showthread.php?t=2263)





It's all about the front crank nut. 32mm if I recall, about 325 ft lbs of torque. To remove mine, we needed to use a serious twin hammer impact wrench. Motor was out of the car. Not sure what sort of clearance you have, might want to look at that.

If you do get the nut off, I'd consider replacing all the timing chain components at the same time:

- guide rail
- tensioner rail
- lower and upper chain sprocket
- chain

You'll never have another chance to do it unless you get in there again. Parts are cheap vs. the effort.

Cheers!

Jeff

[Jeff N.]

well..color me stupid! :)

[Hector]

Yeah, the lower timing chain cover was the first thing I took off, followed by the oil pump and now need to remove the oil pan. My thoughts exactly about replacing the upper and lower sprockets and the chain. The guide rail got bitten off when the head was removed--one of those common mistakes for the first time DIYer or maybe it was just The Nader Factor. About the screwdriver with the bent end, is it bent like an "L" shape or a "J-like" fish hook? (The use of Arial font makes the lower leg of the L and J look the same.)

[Jeff N.]

So Hector, just how did you remove the crank nut? I'm sure that will be useful information for others....

BTW, I have graduated from the Bill R. Univerity of Lower Sprocket Replacement. I'd be happy to outline what I did to pull/re-install that little sucker.

Jeff

[Hector]

and it wasn't actually that bad breaking that mamajama loose. I'm hoping to post some pics later. I also rigged up a home-made torque wrench for when it comes time to put the hub and nut back on the crankshaft. Hopefully, I'll have pics of that too. It beats spending $125+ on a good craftsman torque wrench covering that torque range.

[Jeff N.]

OK - so, how'd you get on that sucker? Was the car on a lift or did you get it from the top? Be curious to see the tool. How'd you lock down the engine so it wouldn't turn?

The problem we had was that with the motor out of the car there was now way to hold the sucker. With an impact wrench, it just spun right off. When we tried the breaker bar there was no way to hold the motor.

Jeff

[BMW-F1-FAN]

Pull off the pulleyassembly and flywheel. I had a shop take a 3" wide piece of 1/4" steel and drill holes that matched the flywheel. Make the center hole just a bit bigger. I put an extension ladder on the ground and let the steel be restrained by the ladder. 4' breaker bar and voila
OK - so, how'd you get on that sucker? Was the car on a lift or did you get it from the top? Be curious to see the tool. How'd you lock down the engine so it wouldn't turn?

The problem we had was that with the motor out of the car there was now way to hold the sucker. With an impact wrench, it just spun right off. When we tried the breaker bar there was no way to hold the motor.

Jeff

[PSG]

How much work is involved in replacing the front seal with the engine in the car? Other than the pulley bolt, it looks like belts and the cooling fan coming off, then prying out the seal and putting in the new one, which could be difficult I think because there does't seem to be much room to tap it in , keep it square etc. Am I missing anything? any hints?

[Bill R.]

sometimes use to remove the crank and cam seals on cars
http://www.bimmernut.com/%7Ebillr/images/Sealtool.jpg





How do I remove this?

[Hector]

and always wondered what it exactly does. I appreciate the picture.

It looks like it's the age of aquarius--the moon in the 7th star... Everything in place now to tackle this job.

[Hector]

vibration damper/harmonic balancer, nut and hub.

You need a heavy-duty tool like this

http://www.geocities.com/frothlikn/classic_tan2.html

to secure the crankshaft so that you can break the nut loose along with 3/4" drive breaker bar and cheater pipe, and 6 pt impact socket. I would probably remove the radiator just to avoid nicking/gouging its thin vanes...

You need a gear puller to get the hub off and you will have to work from underneath the car for easier access than from the top.



How much work is involved in replacing the front seal with the engine in the car? Other than the pulley bolt, it looks like belts and the cooling fan coming off, then prying out the seal and putting in the new one, which could be difficult I think because there does't seem to be much room to tap it in , keep it square etc. Am I missing anything? any hints?

[PSG]

Thanks Hector!