Level8Drummer
03-30-2004, 11:08 PM
I read a few of your posts on tire pressures earlier, and I thought I'd write a little explanatory article on tire pressures...Enjoy!
Level8Drummer's Tire Pressure 101
The greater your tire contact patch is, the more traction you have. Also the more rolling resistance your tire gives. The more your rolling resistance, the worse your gas mileage. If you decrease your tire pressure below optimal pressure, you have less contact patch, but more rolling resistance because the tires are bending and flexing more with every wheel revolution. Your tires will wear on the outside edges more, and less in the middle. If you increase your tire pressure above optimal pressure, then your contact patch narrows, and you have less traction. You also have less rolling resistance, since less tire is touching the ground. Less rolling resistance equates to better gas mileage, but your tires will wear more in the middle.
Tire pressures for optimal gas mileage do not necessarily equate to tire pressures for optimal traction. Think about it, the more a tire grips the ground the more it will resist rolling forward.
Also keep in mind that a tire with less pressure turns more revolutions per mile than a tire with more pressure does. So tire pressures do affect your gearing.
As for handling and tire pressures for the front and the rear, If you have more pressure up front than the back, your car will tend to oversteer. If you have more pressure in the back than the front, your car will tend to understeer. Since E34's (like most normal cars) tend to understeer as they are, for an experienced driver who knows how to steer with the throttle and properly rotate a car, not to mention reign in a strong oversteer, I would reccomend more pressure up front (and more negative camber up front), and less pressure in the back tires. For the average driver, I'd reccomend keeping the pressures closer to even.
Why does adding more pressure to a tire than the optimal amount for a maximized tire contact patch make that tire stick more to the ground? Our cars don't have the negative camber that track cars do. When we take a corner at full speed, our outside wheels and tires do not remain perfectly flat to the ground, the tops are leaning out too far for an optimal tire contact patch. At optimal contact patch pressure (for driving in a straight line) when taking hard turns, the outside of the tire has more contact with the road than the middle of the tire does. So if you increase the pressure and make the middle balloon out, then more of the middle of the tire comes into contact with the road, therefore increasing your traction. Also more pressure does tend to make your tire more stable under harsher conditions, and for those of us with higher profile tires, the tire will "roll over" less when it has more pressure in it.
So when you hit the track, knock your tire pressures up. For the normal gas-mileage conscious driver, keep your tire pressures wherever they have to be for your tires to wear evenly on the outside and the middle of the tread. For the performance-minded driver, take the pressures up to whatever level feels the best, and makes your car handle neutrally.
Also when you check and adjust your tire pressures, do it when the tires are warmed up. The front tires will not always be same temperature as the rears when you're driving on them, and that's when tire pressures matter the most...not when your car is sitting in the driveway. Most of the braking that you do is done with your front brakes, and that generates more heat (and more pressure since pv=nrt) in the front tires than the rears, especially if you have fancy alloy wheels (like come stock on the E34) that like to conduct heat.
One final note: The "MAXIMUM INFLATION PRESSURE" pressure is just what it says, a "maximum" inflation pressure when the tires are hot. Don't inflate your tires above that number.
ps. A Bimmer is a car, a Beemer is a motorcycle :p
Level8Drummer's Tire Pressure 101
The greater your tire contact patch is, the more traction you have. Also the more rolling resistance your tire gives. The more your rolling resistance, the worse your gas mileage. If you decrease your tire pressure below optimal pressure, you have less contact patch, but more rolling resistance because the tires are bending and flexing more with every wheel revolution. Your tires will wear on the outside edges more, and less in the middle. If you increase your tire pressure above optimal pressure, then your contact patch narrows, and you have less traction. You also have less rolling resistance, since less tire is touching the ground. Less rolling resistance equates to better gas mileage, but your tires will wear more in the middle.
Tire pressures for optimal gas mileage do not necessarily equate to tire pressures for optimal traction. Think about it, the more a tire grips the ground the more it will resist rolling forward.
Also keep in mind that a tire with less pressure turns more revolutions per mile than a tire with more pressure does. So tire pressures do affect your gearing.
As for handling and tire pressures for the front and the rear, If you have more pressure up front than the back, your car will tend to oversteer. If you have more pressure in the back than the front, your car will tend to understeer. Since E34's (like most normal cars) tend to understeer as they are, for an experienced driver who knows how to steer with the throttle and properly rotate a car, not to mention reign in a strong oversteer, I would reccomend more pressure up front (and more negative camber up front), and less pressure in the back tires. For the average driver, I'd reccomend keeping the pressures closer to even.
Why does adding more pressure to a tire than the optimal amount for a maximized tire contact patch make that tire stick more to the ground? Our cars don't have the negative camber that track cars do. When we take a corner at full speed, our outside wheels and tires do not remain perfectly flat to the ground, the tops are leaning out too far for an optimal tire contact patch. At optimal contact patch pressure (for driving in a straight line) when taking hard turns, the outside of the tire has more contact with the road than the middle of the tire does. So if you increase the pressure and make the middle balloon out, then more of the middle of the tire comes into contact with the road, therefore increasing your traction. Also more pressure does tend to make your tire more stable under harsher conditions, and for those of us with higher profile tires, the tire will "roll over" less when it has more pressure in it.
So when you hit the track, knock your tire pressures up. For the normal gas-mileage conscious driver, keep your tire pressures wherever they have to be for your tires to wear evenly on the outside and the middle of the tread. For the performance-minded driver, take the pressures up to whatever level feels the best, and makes your car handle neutrally.
Also when you check and adjust your tire pressures, do it when the tires are warmed up. The front tires will not always be same temperature as the rears when you're driving on them, and that's when tire pressures matter the most...not when your car is sitting in the driveway. Most of the braking that you do is done with your front brakes, and that generates more heat (and more pressure since pv=nrt) in the front tires than the rears, especially if you have fancy alloy wheels (like come stock on the E34) that like to conduct heat.
One final note: The "MAXIMUM INFLATION PRESSURE" pressure is just what it says, a "maximum" inflation pressure when the tires are hot. Don't inflate your tires above that number.
ps. A Bimmer is a car, a Beemer is a motorcycle :p