Please help me with this "what will break" list...

[uflnuceng]

Searching just isn't working for me... don't know if its heat stroke or what...

BMWE34.net "What Will Break" List (http://www.bmwe34.net/e34main/trouble/what_will_break.htm)

I have a 1990 BMW 535i 5-speed, 272k miles, currently undergoing extensive engine rebuild in prep for turbo build. What are some of the things I should look for?

1. Cam oil spray bar applies to me? Is it possible to order the wrong bolts or does BMW not make them anymore?
2. What relays should I be replacing? Fuel Pump, DME and LKM is what I'm guessing.
3. Should I be concerned about replacing the fuel pump? My turbo kit I think came with a bigger one that will replace the current one anyway... I'll check with TCD on that one.
4. My glove box is kinda catching on something when I try to open it... is the "latch" he talks about on the glove box or up in the dash?
5. Suspension is fresh and I don't get any noise or play from the wheel bearings, even after 272k miles... I think I can hold off on those as they have probably been replaced already.

Any other input... I'm mostly concerned about the electric system. There is a clicking coming from the steering column and I think it has to do with that steering nut thing, but I'm not sure. May have the dealership handle that one actually... I already have a new brake light switch... should I be concerned about the clutch switch one? There is also something up with the wire that connects to the rear driver's side turn signal. My guess is it is corroded or something... I'll check.

Thanks
Jared

[Bill R.]

Item 1 does apply to you, the newer bolts are the only style currently available, but you'd be better off getting some drilled bolts from Don Gale to safety wire them on. He has them for a very reasonable price for people.

2. Relays, I would get a main relay or dme whichever terminology you prefer and a fuel pump relay, I'd keep them in the glovebox after you fix the latch just in case they are needed. Fairly reasonably priced and decent insurance to have. Same reason i kept a GM ignition module in the glovebox on my trucks... plus as long as you have the spare, it guarantees that you won't break down... Its only if you don't have it that the car decides to break.

3. Fuel pump, Todds kit probably comes with a higher flow pump depending on how much boost you're actually going to run.. I gather you're going to use the low compression forged pistons and forged crank like the m30 turbo had


4. The latch is on the door itself, cheap from bma , fix it before it sticks and you really have to break stuff to get in.

5. You'll know it when the wheel bearings start to make noise, no reason to replace prior.



Searching just isn't working for me... don't know if its heat stroke or what...

BMWE34.net "What Will Break" List (http://www.bmwe34.net/e34main/trouble/what_will_break.htm)

I have a 1990 BMW 535i 5-speed, 272k miles, currently undergoing extensive engine rebuild in prep for turbo build. What are some of the things I should look for?

1. Cam oil spray bar applies to me? Is it possible to order the wrong bolts or does BMW not make them anymore?
2. What relays should I be replacing? Fuel Pump, DME and LKM is what I'm guessing.
3. Should I be concerned about replacing the fuel pump? My turbo kit I think came with a bigger one that will replace the current one anyway... I'll check with TCD on that one.
4. My glove box is kinda catching on something when I try to open it... is the "latch" he talks about on the glove box or up in the dash?
5. Suspension is fresh and I don't get any noise or play from the wheel bearings, even after 272k miles... I think I can hold off on those as they have probably been replaced already.

Any other input... I'm mostly concerned about the electric system. There is a clicking coming from the steering column and I think it has to do with that steering nut thing, but I'm not sure. May have the dealership handle that one actually... I already have a new brake light switch... should I be concerned about the clutch switch one? There is also something up with the wire that connects to the rear driver's side turn signal. My guess is it is corroded or something... I'll check.

Thanks
Jared

[uflnuceng]

Item 1 does apply to you, the newer bolts are the only style currently available, but you'd be better off getting some drilled bolts from Don Gale to safety wire them on. He has them for a very reasonable price for people.

Link please?


2. Relays, I would get a main relay or dme whichever terminology you prefer and a fuel pump relay, I'd keep them in the glovebox after you fix the latch just in case they are needed. Fairly reasonably priced and decent insurance to have.

So just get a couple spares, the fuses look decent and may have been replaced by a PO. I'll get a spare set and put them in the glovebox as recommened.


3. Fuel pump, Todds kit probably comes with a higher flow pump depending on how much boost you're actually going to run.. I gather you're going to use the low compression forged pistons and forged crank like the m30 turbo had

Stock crank actually, forged pistons and ARP head studs... running about 1 bar of boost.


5. You'll know it when the wheel bearings start to make noise, no reason to replace prior.

Had an E36 with bad wheel bearings... know what it sounds like.

Thanks for your advice...

[Bill R.]

homepage with the bolts (http://www.nmia.com/%7Edgnrg/page_2.htm)

Don's one of the goodguys.




Link please?



So just get a couple spares, the fuses look decent and may have been replaced by a PO. I'll get a spare set and put them in the glovebox as recommened.



Stock crank actually, forged pistons and ARP head studs... running about 1 bar of boost.



Had an E36 with bad wheel bearings... know what it sounds like.

Thanks for your advice...

[nosdbmr]

Change your Clutch fan to an electric fan... I run nitrous on my 525i and the one big noticeable change that I did for all around use was this. I also bored the motor 20 thous, deck the head, port and polished and had the engine balanced. If you are rebuilding your motor have it balanced for what the little cost that there is for balancing the engine just runs so much smoother.

[uflnuceng]

Change your Clutch fan to an electric fan...

Can you recommend a brand or have a link to installation instructions? I know its fairly easy to do and Summit has a butt load of them.


I also bored the motor 20 thous, deck the head, port and polished and had the engine balanced. If you are rebuilding your motor have it balanced for what the little cost that there is for balancing the engine just runs so much smoother.

Mine is getting bored .5mm over (~20 thous) and having the engine balanced. We are going to evaluate decking the head as I want to maintain a 8.0:1 CR, and for the expense a port and polish job might not produce that great of a return... we'll see. The rotating assembly will be balanced though. THe engine is getting a stock, but completely rebuilt bottom end, JE forged pistons, ARP head studs, Cometic 0.080" MLS head gasket and plenty of other goodies.

[nosdbmr]

Can you recommend a brand or have a link to installation instructions? I know its fairly easy to do and Summit has a butt load of them.



Mine is getting bored .5mm over (~20 thous) and having the engine balanced. We are going to evaluate decking the head as I want to maintain a 8.0:1 CR, and for the expense a port and polish job might not produce that great of a return... we'll see. The rotating assembly will be balanced though. THe engine is getting a stock, but completely rebuilt bottom end, JE forged pistons, ARP head studs, Cometic 0.080" MLS head gasket and plenty of other goodies.

I am using a Greddy 14" Fan and as to installation it is very easy, it just depends on how you want to install it (switch turn on or sensor turn on). And as to the bore yes we be bored it .20 over so in mm I am not sure what that works out to but probably very similar. I deal with inches so??? For pistons I believe it or not had a custom made set of Wiseco Pistons made as they had never done any for the application that I was looking for. Same gasket for the head but like I said we decked the head, the only down fault with my motor is I cannot run more nitrous due to no one makes a chip that will allow us to retard the timing everyone wants to advance it with there chips. So I then had to put in an SAFC which allows me to do this. So if you are going to run Nitrous and the motor is built for it, spray away and you will love what the response is.:)

[Bill R.]

in arizona with our high temperatures, the 98,99 2000 model year e46's came with both belt driven fan on the engine and electric auxillary fan in front of the radiator for an assist or for the a/c, this is the way most of the automatic trans cars came, the manual transmission cars in some cases came with the electric fan replacing the belt driven fan. I seem to see almost every late model manual e46 this way. These seem to blow headgaskets and crack blocks here at a much higher rate than do the automatics with the belt and electric fans.
I suspect that when the fan fails and the car starts to overheat in traffic it happens much much quicker with the electric only fan cars, the belt driven fans seem to heat up slower since with a bad fan clutch it still moves some air and this gives the owner more of a warning time before the car cooks itself.
To me the slight gain in performance not having a clutch fan is not worth the potential risk when a electric fan fails. Also the aftermarket fans seem to fail at a much higher rate than do the factory fans.






I am using a Greddy 14" Fan and as to installation it is very easy, it just depends on how you want to install it (switch turn on or sensor turn on). And as to the bore yes we be bored it .20 over so in mm I am not sure what that works out to but probably very similar. I deal with inches so??? For pistons I believe it or not had a custom made set of Wiseco Pistons made as they had never done any for the application that I was looking for. Same gasket for the head but like I said we decked the head, the only down fault with my motor is I cannot run more nitrous due to no one makes a chip that will allow us to retard the timing everyone wants to advance it with there chips. So I then had to put in an SAFC which allows me to do this. So if you are going to run Nitrous and the motor is built for it, spray away and you will love what the response is.:)