M60 which spark plugs?

[dt8068]

I am debating which plugs to get for the 4.0 M60. I know the two stock ones are the Bosch F7LDCR or the NGK BKR6EK, but apparently the NGK BKR6EQUP from the 4.4 M62 engine can be used also. I have also heard the NGK Iridiums are very good but where do you get them? So which plugs should I get, should I stick with the stock ones or get NGK iridiums?

[632 Regal]

no one bit all day so ill get another point. Go with the stockers, you wont have any issues that you could have with other performance plugs such as platinums or anything else. I use the Bosch because I got a good deal on them ($1.99 ea) but NGKs are supposed to be good. I never liked NGKs since I had a bike and it would foul one of the 4 in any given 30 mile run, changed them out to bosch and never had to buy another plug for the next 2 years till I sold it.

check out carparts.com, maybe they have a special like when I got lucky.

[winfred]

the ngk plat's and iridiums should work fine but will cost a good bit more, ngk platinum plugs are actually good as they are designed well unlike the shitty bosch plat's

[BillionPa]

iridium plugs are teh pwn!

that means they are good, the last long, and have a VERY effective single electrode spark.

[swenpro]

For those trying to acquire the OEM F7LDCR plugs, it is helpful to know that they have been superceded by the FR7LDC+ plugs. This is what BMP Design told me after I received the latter from them, and this link (http://www.bosch.com.au/content/language1/downloads/9449_Poster.pdf)reinforces that. Anyone concur that the FR7LDC+ plugs are the new right thing to use?

[632 Regal]

thats what im using, the center electrode is thicker than its predicessor for whatever reason. They run good so far (10k).

For those trying to acquire the OEM F7LDCR plugs, it is helpful to know that they have been superceded by the FR7LDC+ plugs. This is what BMP Design told me after I received the latter from them, and this link (http://www.bosch.com.au/content/language1/downloads/9449_Poster.pdf)reinforces that. Anyone concur that the FR7LDC+ plugs are the new right thing to use?

[swenpro]

Great! Thanks. BTW Jeff, how necessary will it be to change iginition wires/boot connectors, etc? Or maybe I should just install my 8 plugs first and then go for a visual inspection...

[Toomas]

Take an ohm meter and measure the wires, all the ones going to plugs has to have the same resistance, and no the lenght plays no role on BMW wires as they have resistors (are they called that in english?).
If they all read the same then they are good.

[632 Regal]

dont know if it's necessary but here's my first issue when I bought my car.

I had a miss, it was real bad when the AC was on, the open door would move almost an inch up and down...Nikisil failure. Replaced everything, fuel filters plugs, injectors etc etc. still had a miss and it wasn't any better...Nikasil dammit. next in line was coil packs, I spent a ton of money by now and I just found BMA for the coils, guess what, it still missed...dammit! Everything was replaced, everything was new and in check...hmmm... plug boots, they measured perfect all equal resistance...WTF might as well spend a couple bucks on the cheap things and be complete. Popped the new boots on and wham, no miss, smooth as silk (within reason). I double checked the old boots, they again measured fine. I dont know why they measured fine but caused a miss but that for the most part solved the Nikasil problem.

During the winter I was throwing a buttload of O2 codes, reset, codes etc. Finally replaced the intake gaskets and it helped a lot. wasnt until a month ago when I actually checked out the ICV and it was sticky as hell. Starting fluid and the twist© (Chubby Checker) and now I NEVER throw codes and it is so much more stable.

Thats my story and I'm sticking to it.

[jgardia]

I'm using Denso iridium for a cuple of months in a m60 without any problem. also I've been doing some tests and I think I'm saving about 1/2 km/lt (~1 mpg) @ 120 km/hr (75 mph). I bought it in www.sparkplugs.com. The plugs are expensive, $12 each, but if I'm saving gas, and here you pay $4.5 per gallon (half of the price is tax), I think it worth. Also, this plugs work for 30k miles.

Good luck,

Jose

[632 Regal]

and to think I ran the stockers 50k, shame on me :D
Also, this plugs work for 30k miles.

[winfred]

id be pissed if that's all they lasted, the stockers go 40-50k


I'm using Denso iridium for a cuple of months in a m60 without any problem. this plugs work for 30k miles.

Good luck,

Jose

[joshua43214]

dont know if it's necessary but here's my first issue when I bought my car.

I had a miss, it was real bad when the AC was on, the open door would move almost an inch up and down...Nikisil failure. Replaced everything, fuel filters plugs, injectors etc etc. still had a miss and it wasn't any better...Nikasil dammit. next in line was coil packs, I spent a ton of money by now and I just found BMA for the coils, guess what, it still missed...dammit! Everything was replaced, everything was new and in check...hmmm... plug boots, they measured perfect all equal resistance...WTF might as well spend a couple bucks on the cheap things and be complete. Popped the new boots on and wham, no miss, smooth as silk (within reason). I double checked the old boots, they again measured fine. I dont know why they measured fine but caused a miss but that for the most part solved the Nikasil problem.

During the winter I was throwing a buttload of O2 codes, reset, codes etc. Finally replaced the intake gaskets and it helped a lot. wasnt until a month ago when I actually checked out the ICV and it was sticky as hell. Starting fluid and the twist© (Chubby Checker) and now I NEVER throw codes and it is so much more stable.

Thats my story and I'm sticking to it.

doing resistance checking on secondary ignition components is usualy a waste of time. It was fine in the old days, when the wires would actualy break, but on modern stuff the insulation usualy fails before the wires do. The only way to properly test secondary ignition is with an osciliscope, and with DI its a bit more comlex to do. Considering how cheap the boots are on the 540i, its best to just replace them if they are suspect, this is one of those places where owning the v8 just costs more, just be grateful it calls for copper plugs and not platinum. Many people will not recognize the marks left behind by failed boots.

[BillionPa]

actually the Denso iridium plugs are rated for 60K miles in normally aspirated engines not used in a race environment.

most people run the thicker plugs for over 100K before they need replacing, but the Denso plug has a smaller electrode for better performance and fuel economy at the expense of longevity, although they still last longer than stock.